larryllix

See you looking out your front door 4:00 AM. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Over the last few years we have seen a few people posting they were going to hack the Insteon protocol and demonstrate how it could be done. From a few very smart people none have ever came backand shown that it can be done yet. The White Papers that people incorrectly assume are the gospel truth, apparently are not, and almost every aspect of the protocol is not completely as written, in the Smartie's white papers made available to the public. I consider the Insteon protocol already just as safe in the as even banking security system protocols. The end result isn't worth the amount of effort it would take, for the perpetrator's end gain. Even with the so-called rolling code garage door openers, tooted as such a big security feature. It turns out they have to allow a hundred or so different codes because they may not have been listening when some other device (another car remote) caused the predefined (and well known sequenced) list of codes to "roll". I am of the same opinion as many others. Most security is only a "feel-good" hype for the users. When the encryption password has to be sent during the same comm session, it's all just hype.

Thanks, but not for Canada. I ran a test case and their 9v adapter for $3.95 suddenly becomes $9.95 with a total, inlcuding shipping of $25.75 I found in making up plug together cords, the barrel connector to 9v battery clip adapter was always wired backwards and stated for charging 9v batteries not battery eleimination. IIRC I never did find one that offerred the correct polarity. I concluded I would have to make up all my own cords. Project stalled so far, but I bought stock in a battery company, instead.

Thanks. I've been looking for a series of parts to make these up cheper but by the time you get all the xtensions and adapters the price gets high. This unit apears to be wired for a 9v charger, to for charging a 9v battery and is the wrong polarity to use as a battery substitution. This is noted in several of the review feedback posts. I found this in my reserach before that the sellers just dont understand there is a polarity difference between a charger and battery substitution supply.

You mean all those spare original MSes are worth a lot more mone now? When then good-bye to bitcoin investments and hello relic Insteon coins?

First you have to mentally divorce the modes of the mini-controller with any loads you control. On/Off 8 buttons, 4 buttons, only changes what command codes the mini-remote puts out. Your ISY program can deal with any style. Toggle could be used directly as the toggling is already done. Write a program to detect On, and a program to detect Off codes. You are correct. They could get out of synch if another source of control is being used with that scene or devices. It would only take a second press of that button, in that case I like to use the 4 button mode and detect the signals. Each of the four buttons can now send six commands to ISY. Fast On, On, Fade up, Fade Down, Off, Fast Off. Your programs can still control one device from one button (of eight sides), They may look a little screwy detecting an Off and turning a scene or lights On. With any style command received it is easy to write two programs to toggle a load. A disabed program needs to be used to avoid oscillation detecting it's own controlled load If ....Control ButtonX is Switched On Then ....run program (if) Toggle Else ....--- Program Toggle (DISABLED) If ....Load is Off Then ....Set Load On Else ....Set Load Off Now with my Echoes I don't use these mini-remotes anymore.

Universal power supplies usually only tolerate down to about 90vac. A range of 240vac down to 12vac would be incredulous. I believe that was Stu's point. Electronic items that can live on 12vac tend to be very sensitive to small 12v (5% x V) spikes on a 240vac system.

I would suspect there is ONE resistor or capacitor they change for 240/120 vac models. However, digital CPU based, multimeters do it without switching the input circuitry from uVolts to 1kV. hmmmm... most (I have used/repaired) have one hardware switch ranges to change to the most sensitive scales there, so the designers must have had a problem there too but the input ranges are amazing these days.

It's the new industry standard. "Dreamware" You put out a product telling the potential buyer hows wonderful it is but don't actually state any actual features. The customer has to look at the box or advertising and dream what the brag means, conjuring up all kinds of features in their heads. How does this help the manufacturer? - Features are not nailed down. They can put a product on the shelves, years before the firmware is stable. After all, they didn't actually state that feature was there...they implied it and the customer dreamed it. - customers always dream higher features and quality than exists. - The box can be created for the product without Engineering people having any limitations - Hopefully the product will have better or different features than expected, until the firmware writing company was decided upon and contracted to do it. Just look at the manual in the box.... ......"For more information than connecting to a 120vac source properly , see www.dreamware.com"

If the LampLinc really runs on 12vac, it signifies one sensitive range circuitry, 12vac to 150vac operating range? Very impressive! If that is the actual case, we should be hearing a lot more about LampLincs burning out frequently with 120vac system usage surges and spikes. It's quite possible, but even multi-meters have a hard time with inputs to cover wide ranges like that. SH equipment doesn't have that reputation, with some other equipment. OTOH: Doorbell transformers rated at 16vac have been measured up to 30vac, because it isn't critical and some manufacturer found they can rate the output voltage at 110vac input and full rated load on the secondary. Small core transformers are very poor efficiency and voltage stability with such low iron content.

Ships from and sold by RC3434.

Do you have a good and recent ISY backup?

Anything that ISY can control can be used with the Portal.

I'll order one but I want the scene to indicate Off when it gets to the second last bar of the music. Better to be scene and not heard. You aren't the guy selling scenes on eBay are you? I have a scene called "All Off" that I use every night. It's an Insteon ALL OFF simulator since I can't seem to get one when I need one. OK,..let's not make a bigger scene here. Are we bored (sp?) yet? BTW: I just finished up my OB Mate3 modbus interrogator with ISY stuffed parameters. My RPi3 will never get a divorce from my ISY now. Now what do I do with the data? I wanted to know about solar levels for ISY logic but the PV panels are covered in snow for months in the winter. hhmmmmmm...think some of the blind controls would work for PV panel wipers?

It would be cool to see UDI release a drop in Polyglot server for old ISY99s.

Would make a great little Ethernet only controller,but I would severely miss the v5 features. I wonder how much math and conditional logic v3.3 is missing. Did it support REST calls or Network Resources in order to make it a fairly complete Ethernet logic box?

My apologies. I used the wrong command signal. I have since corrected it. Try the switched Fade Down, It will work as one of the simplest programs, f your devices are linked to ISY properly. Right click on your program, copy to clipboard, and post it here using the advanced editor (More Reply Options) They are not hacks, they are programs, and why you didn't get a Hub. The programming may seem tough at first but you will find it very enabling.

I have 400-500 programs running. I got most of them really cheap. One very simple solution was offered in post #2 that could solve one "problem". If you can hold down a paddle for a few seconds then the delay incurred by the Insteon protocol using an ISY program should not be noticed. It should take you about 2 minutes to install and it will last for years.

Get a SwitchLinc Dimmer that understands the commands sent. Possibly petition SH to make an option to disable the dim/brighten command from the 2477S SwitchLincs. They may listen and actually do something in a few decades. OR Get an ISY994i problem solver and learn to make things work your way!

Unfortunately as posted by others Nest will not give out their local API. It is rumoured there are hacks out there but that would take a third party CPU to run some hacking software to get parameters into your ISY. Cloud works most of the time, but relying on IFTT is probably the least secure you can get.

Other than some edits into sane names, this has become the bible of leak programs, http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/?hl=%2Bsuggested+%2Bleak

This has become the bible for many of us. Most may have modified (edited to meaningful names) it after installing but it has been tested for a long time. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/?hl=%2Bsuggested+%2Bleak

You could use an ISY program to translate the dim signal into an Off signal. IIRC all SwitchLinc paddles send out all the dimming signals despite their own load controls circuits not capable of dimming. If ....SwitchLinc is switched dim Fade Down Then ....set SwitchLinc Off Else ...--- Edit: Corrected termimology

UDI has spent countless development months on Zwave. If there is a rock in the garden a plant's root has to grow around it. Good companies don't disclose business relationships publicly, while there is still hope.

From the other thread: I guess I don't understand the purpose or the point of the ISY finder applet but in three years of using ISY the finder has never found my ISY yet, and tried on many different computers. I have always had to manually add my ISY's IP address to the Finder. Then, if there are two possible addresses listed I have to manually select one every time to load the admin console.