larryllix

How do the links inside a device get inside ISY? How would users use a Hub and an ISY without ISY filling up with errant links to the existing Hub?

Excellent, unbiased, information!

He is complaining about errant links inside ISY.

If the links are showing in ISY it is because your scenes and basic connections to the device demand them to be that way. If the links inside ISY are wrong then you may need a new ISY. In three years, I have never heard of this happenning before, so it isn't very likely the links are wrong. Links in devices contain one for each node going to the PLM and one for each scene that ISY knows about and has created from link management inside ISY. A thermostat will have many links to accomodate the setpoint, heat output and cooling output. each one takes a link as well as links back from the PLM to control nodes inside the device. If you have links inside your devices that only link to another controller/hub/automation computer, they will not be showing in ISY. ISY does not absorb links from devices, only put them into devices. This sounds like you have migrated from an Insteon Hub, where unmanaged links are reported to be a problem for some. If the link tables match perfectly, what is not working, from ISY, in your devices? What device are your referring to?

I assume you have the Portal installed by your comments but if not Admin Console | Help | Purchase modules. You must have an amazon.com account for the Echo registered to a valid US address with proper ZIP code. If you are not in the US you may need to have a virgin computer with no google ID installed. I found it constantly grabbed my google info, and the app is not available to outside US residents. Once all accounts with google, registered outside the US, are disabled, and removed from the computer, then the app may become available. Sideloads for the app are available, but be cautious with Version 2 adverts as they are just phishing hoaxes to lure you into giving personal information. Then follow the wiki link above, although I found it very confusing, as account references never state which one is being discussed. A few different accounts are involved.

Variables can use substitutions, for the value of the variable in the notifications, but not text strings, yet. One way would be to set up a variable for each lock, $sFrontDoor $sBackDoor $sPatioDoor So when kidA enters via the backdoor, the kid's code number is put into the $sBackDoor variable. If ... BackLock_code is not 0 Then ...$sBackdoor = back_door_accessCode When the master program sees any of the variables is changed from 0, it send a notification (State variables required) and then resets the variables to 0 again.(last line in the program) If ...$sBackdoor is not 0 or ...$sFrontdoor is not 0 or ...$sPatiodoor is not 0 Then ...send notification to you, kid_home ...Wait 5 seconds ...$sFrontDoor = 0 ...$sBackDoor = 0 ...$sPatioDoor = 0 Inside the message you have a nice title, with a time marker, and a list of doors, showing the value of each variable with a proper title, like this One of the kids just entered @ hh:mm:ss Front Door: 0 <--------really looks like "Front Door: $(var.2.65)" to use variable value substitution Back Door: 3 Patio Door: 0 People: 1= kidA, 2=kidB, 3=kidC Making sense? 1 program per each door 1 state variable per door 1 master notification program 1 notification NOTE: This may take v5.xx as I am not sure if the access codes can be stuffed into a variable in earlier versions.

You should never need to edit a link table inside a device.ISY provides tools to examine the link table, compare it to ISY's image of what should be in the device, and to restore the device's link table, in the device, back to what ISY has for it. Just right click on the device in the admin console device tree and click restore...fixed. If it is a battery device the linking mode will need to initiated usuall by pressing the linking button on the device for about 5 seconds. Devices do not take XML code.

All zeros is a terminator entry. It tells the CPU involved to stop reading the m into a program.

IIRC there is a trick to extracting the Insteon address that I think you need. You manually link the MS to another device like a SwitchLinc or plug-in module. This is done Insteon style without any help from ISY. Run the Event recorder in admin console and then activate the MS. Look for the Insteon address used for the MS. Factory reset both devices and restore the catalyst unit. Use the MS address in the new device menu (lightbulb icon)

While in linking mode five quick taps on the linking button will force the MS to send it's current Light/dark detection state, without any time delays. This can be used for setting the dark level adjustment more conveniently. Make sure you factory reset those MSes before linking them. You may save yourself a lot of hassle.

Your repeat 30 times Beep. will probably hang your ISY system with Insteon traffic and you will lose control until it clears, when done. I always have to insert at least Wait 1 second but Wait 2 seconds is better if you want to shut it off mid sequence. I flash every light in the house as well as some outside lights and many noise makers. With MSes I had false alarms from car headlights and/or lightning, and too many Cry Wolfs in the neighbourhood will get you trouble, too. This will happen when you are on the other side of the globe. Getting a notification every 30 seconds, from a bad MS, for two weeks can destroy your vacationa nd your communications with your family. Stop using status for MS units and disable the time off inside them. Saves batteries and makes less Insteon traffic. I use defined room numbers to insert into a variable that triggers the alarms. Notifications contain that variable with a room chart. I also set up an alarm variable with five level of action. Setting the alarm variable to 1 gives a short beep only, while level 5 gives the full array of everything, as well as notifications to both of us via two methods. This self resets after the level of alarm has done it's thing. This seemed very simple at the beginning but after a year of fixing bugs and deficiencies, the programs have become very entangled and complex.

Just a a point of interest, scenes do not have to be turn off. I use scenes with all devices Off and call them "All Off" etc.. Now when you want the lights Off you turn the ALL OFF scene ON. Sounds screwball but it has big advantages. Naming/labelling is an art and has to be descriptive. Since I use about 8 different scenes in my gathering room I chose not to turn off one scene. The scenes involve contain different lights and turning it Off would miss a light set and leave it on. Also now my scenes are modularly independent. If I change one it only affects that scene and not some other program that **secretly depends on it. ...**forgot it existed from a few years ago, when I designed it

The IR Transmitter I received supported the beep duration right up until the firmware inside crashed and I am waiting for the R MA final papers. Maybe Supernan could make use of it with enhanced hearing.

With the new Dot on the shelves for $50 and many other brands to kick them around some, I figure the price will drop permanently to some lower price. This looks like Amaxon is testing the waters to find an acceptable price level for the public. Interesting times ahead for HA.

As per Gary above but they are more for hardwiring into a control circuit. No user buttons and just wiring terminals, like an industrial application would demand. DIN rail is a fairly worldwide standard for mounting terminal blocks and small electronic components...transducers, fuse blocks etc..

Because AND has a higher order of operation than OR it is logically assumed you are doing this If ( From Sunset + 15 minutes To Sunrise + 15 minutes (next day) And 'Outside / DetachGarageNorthDoor' Status is Open ) Or 'Outside / DetachGarageSouthDoor' Status is Open Follow Stu's fix above

I had the same sentiments, but broke down and tried the Portal. Works extremely well, and may teach you a few lessons about how to make it work smoothly. Even though I detest subscription fees, I recommend to try it for the first two years while you work on it.

Welcome to the forum. Motions sensors for security usually have terrible placement for home automation, so some may be suggesting you have two systems in place. You can draw your line anywhere you like, depending on the security you feel the need for, and that makes you FEEL safe. After you install titanium bars on every window and reinforce all your doors with multiple chains, install a secret backup generator and many other paranoia things, you can always worry about that sniper bullet coming through your window, if you need more to worry about. It never stops. eg. Don't ever use mobile phones to call for help, because the first thing attackers will do is jam all the airwaves. (sarcasm). Don't use grid power as attackers could hook up a generator with high voltage and kill all residents touching a lightswitch. (sarcasm) Securitry warning stickers on windows accomplish about 95% of what needs to, and can be, done. They keep the kids out. The rest may think they have a reason, and you aren't going to stop the determined ones if you have property worth stealing. That is why the stickers are held so tightly to the security companies proverbial chests. They know this factor, and some will admit it. This is neighbourhood dependant. If bullets frequently fly, you need an amoured tank, or move away I know several people with professionally installed systems that were robbed while in their backyards barbecuing. Why wasn't their alarm system on to protect the purse hanging by the front door? There is always a twist, and there is always insurance. Match your needs with your installation costs. Another factor to consider is, when you get that alarm, what do you do? Worry about it until you get home? Calls the cops and have them charge you for a crying wolf? Call a neighbour? If you have a security company system get the alarm, is the phone not being answered really a reason to call the cops? Best two clues? If an intruder is about to be nasty to your daughter, how much time do you have while they call your number and ring it ten times. Maybe you are forced to answer with your password at gunpoint while the intruder monitors? Lions, and tigers, and bears... Oh My!

I do the same using my ISY as a home security system to report intruders when I am not home. I use it for water leaks in four places as well as motion in ten places, heating failure and a few other things. The biggest problem that I have run into is false MS alarms. I have resolved that by allowing one but not two different MSes to detect motion before taking more drastic action. First one I get a notification and then lockout for some time to avoid nuisance flooding while you are away. Second MS within a set time causes alarms and lights. Light sequences can also be set up to appear like somebody walking though the house in the middle of the night. I use a KPL to activate and deactivate the system with a four key press code. That is posted in a thread back a year ago. This does fail occasionally and has low WAF. Usually a second try at code entry does it though. The combination KPL is also used to clear well pump and washing machine lockouts, with different combinations. The usage for that is multifold, and combos of 2,3,4 or more keypresses are possible, but I have a noisy environment at that end of my house, being over top of two PV inverters, so I wouldn't recommend more than a 4 keypress combination. I formerly used a double tap Off, on the SwitchLinc while already Off. Very easy to implement. As you may get flooded with, it is not a good quality security system but it's better than what I had before it.

That logic always give me some problems also. If ( Control 'KPL Buttons / Becca KPL.B' is switched Off Or Control 'KPL Buttons / Michael KPL.B' is switched Off Or Control 'Front Door' is switched Key/Manually Locked ) ​ AND Control 'KPL Buttons / Becca KPL.B' is not switched On AND Control 'KPL Buttons / Michael KPL.B' is not switched On AND Control 'Front Door' is not switched Key/Manually Unlocked Then Set 'Front Door' Lock Set Scene 'Front Door Deadbolt' Off Else Set 'Front Door' Unlock Set Scene 'Front Door Deadbolt' On The top three conditions are always false unless one trigger is being processed. When any one triggers the whole logic becomes true. The bottom three line are always true unless a trigger is being processed. When any one triggers the whole logic becomes false. Reverse the condition and you have to reverse the logic to keep them equal (deMorgans theorem). Not(A or B or C) = Not(A) and Not(B ) and Not© It won't be nice if it rains, or snows, or sleets. = It won't be nice if it rains, and it won't be nice if it snows, and it won't be nice if it sleets.

hmmmm.. something tells me that logic doesn't work. If I use ... Control XXXX is NOT switched off it will run the else section when an Off control is received. However if use status ....Status is NOT off won't it run the Else section when the status if NOT off? I don't think that applies the same logic but I would try ...Status >= 1% for each line and see what happens. I know there is some discrepancies between some devices using "0%" or "Off" not triggering properly but I can't remember which devices were involved, or the correct logic, that has to be used in each case. BTW; You need a Wait in the then section before turning on the LED, especially if any of these lights are turned on by a battery operated Insteon device. I just had my first ALL ON in three years and the cause is felt to be just that...a battery operated Insteon device sending out multiple signals, like they do, and a program turning on a KPL LED simultaneously. yeah it was 2:15 AM and a few dozen lights went full on. WAF was real low when it woke her up.

You have a line ....Wait 4 minutes in each program, that has nothing to wait for.

What mode are you using for your KPL button? Most use non-toggle On mode so that the operation and control of the LED is more straightforward. It sounds like you have toggle mode enabled.

Bingo. That would be my opinion, also.

In your first program, when activated, it turns your light on dim...now it is not off, causing the else section to run and your first program to become False. As an alternative you can just detect the dim signal from the switchlinc and run the scene. You can shut them all off with a double tap off which causes a more universal feeling to the operations for users. Long tap down for dimming. Single tap down for Off Double tap down for more Offs I try to keep this fairly consistent throughout my house for better WAF and my own memory. The same applies for tap up. The programs become a lot simpler and do not require any status checking anywhere.