larryllix

These things are very important before automating your garage door. A little reading, some thinking, and elbow grease can do this for you. Or like Teken suggested hire a pro to do it, even as a routine checkup for a better off-season price. The Force Detection setting is the most important. People will tell you need to monitor the opening with a cam but this still no substitute for a person standing by with their hand on the button. But who actually does that, right? You slap the button and go into the house. When the toddler next door crawls under the door as it is closing your response through a delayed webcam signal, and through the further delay of a remote control HA system with you panicking, is not going to be in time. For dogs and cats? They aren't gonna to drag you through court to get support for their paraplegic child for the rest of their life, let alone your nightmares. Yeah, it can get serious real fast. As Teken stated above the Force Detection setting is the most critical system, and after that your "Beams" are working and placed correctly. Most "beams" are failsafe these days anyway and service attention is demanded if they are not functioning.

You have to imagine yourself as the computer walking through the instructions and doing each line, one at a time, in order. When you get to the Wait 1 minute, what are you waiting for? There is nothing else to do after that. With only one line per section it's about efficient as it can get for the ISY CPU.

Don't worry about ISY being CPU bound. The pro can have 1000 programs and it's the same firmware and CPU Are you having some problem with it working? Main Bedroom Humidifier - [iD 0002][Parent 000C] If From 9:00:00PM To 9:00:00AM (next day) Then Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' 100% Wait 1 minute <----- this line has no program function Else Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' Off Wait 1 minute <---- this line has no program function

Any of the brands a few years back were problems as they tried to make them too cheap. I have Cree units that started to flicker after about 3-4 months of perfect service. @Stu, this is not 120Hz flicker I am seeing. I have that on some when dimmed, especially my expensive Cree bulbs, now they are getting older. This is the occasional brilliance dip that seems to go completely out and then come back on full brilliance. A rough guess is the dip lasts 1-2 cycles only. For the longest time I thought I might have blinked my eyes but now this is happening more frequently and we can actually zoom in on the bulb that is doing it. hmmmmm... I was just thinking this bulb, over kitchen sink, is backed up by an inverter. Maybe contacts are getting dirty etc... I have had many problems with Occupancy sensor in this switch position, like 5 of them went back as keep retriggering after no motion. Insteon is not involved in this one at all. Maybe I will crawl up there and swap that bulb with another on another circuit nd switch. Thanks for making me think about it. Need to get proactive as I just ordered replacements for the lineup over the counter, 5K, 27W BR40's. Better work surface colour than the 2700K I have now.

"So this is giving me issues still. Not 100% perfect. My problem is IF I invoke my sunset scene before the MS declares it "dark" then turn off the lights - the MS will change to dark and then run sunset. Sometimes being in Seattle a dark grey day I may turn the sunset scene on earlier in the day. Any thoughts how to fix this? " I guess I missed the part where you ever turned the scene ON manually and assumed it was only the manual Off that caused the restrike from the MS.dark. My apologies. So you want once this scene has been run auto or manual for it to never be activated automatically again that day? So... - if you operate the scene On/Off manually at any time, that is OK = no conditions - if you operate the scene Off manually within an evening time frame the MS.auto On should be ignored for the rest of the evening. hmmmm.. let me think about that quirk and I'll try to get back to you.

Maybe the poor soul is a victim of the All On bug and thought it was due to power failure return.

You were close. The changes to your programs are highlighted in Red. The programs should operate as a "Once and Only Once" scheme each day.

I believe the air gap is a safety thing. You have to be able to shut the power off completely to change a light bulb, standing in water with bare feet, with a shorted filament bulb that's full of gasoline. Trickle currents are not allowed while kids hold onto the outer metal ring screw thread or put their hand palm on the halogen bulb to change a lightbulb.

Yeah the receiver part of the RF would be no problem but you don't start transmitting an RF signal inside a metal box without risking damage to other components with the standing waves created, let alone the output transistors not having their power absorbed. This is a Radio guy's nightmare. My thoughts are SH never even thought about this and the board has the same guts as all the rest. maybe in the spring I should open this one up and take some pics. 'As long as we can put the "dual-band" sticker on it.' EDIT: Ohh! Brian to the rescue...

I run a lot of test programs to try things out. Use a beeper or even a program to indicate the code is being executed. Test Indicator (Not enabled) If -- Then Wait 1 second Run program 'Test Indicator' (else) Else --- Now when you insert the line in your programs Run program 'Test Indicator' (If)' you will see the program icon turn to red and back every time YOUR ISY program passes through that point. When you are sure about your program, remove the test line. NOTE: You have to have your icons colours enabled for this. This is a right click option on the program tree.

Great! Both of them have syntax errors in the wording as doesn't it doesn't match the value implied. If you would have waited the 35 minute for the cycle to repeat you would have seen it happen.

I just got me one of those, them, thar, thin's. (Outdoor Module) I am sitting parallel with the top of Upper Michigan state, in latitude, but Ontario, but haven't experienced much real cold yet this winter. The units has worked flawlessly, so far this winter, at the end of a 30' Christmas light extension cord mounted on a metal lawn chair fed by a GFCI receptacle. It turns my light sequencer on and off about 5-6 times per evening every hour on the half past. The button is encapsulated in rubber and the device seems totally sealed against water penetration. Good hard metal box and almost bullet proof cord and receptacle. OK not so important in Canada but tough plastics with sealed joints. I don't know why this thing would be dual band being in a completely metal box but maybe the cord acts as an antenna.

First I know nothing about portal or nodes stuff. V5 has brought variable substitution to Network resources. What this means to me is that using Hue coloured bulbs I don't need 30 different colour resource statements to call. Set Hue.colour = $cCOLOUR.RED (value set in Integer page) Set Hue.Brightness = 70 Set Hue.Saturation = 254 Run Network resource 'Set Hue' I can change the Hue.colour variable and use on Network resource call to do anything. Inside I have statements like "Bri":${var,1,156}, "Sat":${var,1,157} that get converted to text versions of the variable values. This feature eliminates huge banks of various colour, brightness, and saturation combinations which would have taken one Network resource for each combination. That's one of the biggies of v5 for me.

OK some of this is coming back to me and after reading your report a dozen times I think I understand now. Your grey skies are turning your MS.dark sensor on at multiple times. Any programs based on the MS.dark sensor can be triggered multiple times per night= not wanted. We need to implement the "Once and only once" logic with a enabling program and an operating program Sunset - (1) Time [ON] - [iD 0042][Parent 0003] If From Sunset - 3 hours To Sunset + 1 hour (same day) Then Enable Program 'Sunset - (2) Inside [ON]' Else Disable Program 'Sunset - (2) Inside [ON]' Sunset - (2) Inside [ON] - [iD 0039][Parent 0003][Not Enabled] If Control 'Kitchen - Motion-Dusk.Dawn' is switched On Then Set Scene 'Sunset' On Disable Program 'Sunset - (2) Inside [ON]' <---can never happen again until Sunset (1) says so. Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Just the way you wrote it but one condition per line. IF From sunset To sunrise (next day) <----Time between dusk and dawn AND ( Zone 1 violated OR zone 2 violated ) Then .... Click on the And() or Or() and slide them up or down to where you want. EDIT: Sorry Paul. I formulated this post and then the doorbell rang after which I hit Post. LOL

Back to basics. Control - [iD 005D][Parent 005B] If $Allow_to_Run is 1 Then Repeat Every 5 minutes <---- "Every" is a syntax error. It's just another 5 minutes wait Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' On Wait 30 minutes <--- total loop time is now 35 minutes Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now right click on the program name and select 'run then' Here is a version using the Repeat x times construct you mentioned. This will give a fresh start again each day just after midnight. Again you can jump start the program by right clicking the program and selecting "run then" from the pulldown menu. If Time is 12:01 AM <---- any time of day will do Then Repeat 41 times <---- runs just short of 24 hours Set 'Outlet' On Wait 30 minutes Set 'Outlet' Off Wait 5 minutes Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Any better for you?

I always buy the Dimmable types now. They are typically more expensive but I know they have to put better power supplies in the bulbs and less likely to start flickering after few months of usage.

I think since you have no Else code running you can combine the conditions into one program and not be so complicated. The time frame can just act like a filter and not trigger any code. I am not sure what the problem you are having is exactly. I assume later, another scene takes over, so no Off code is required. If Control 'Kitchen - Motion-Dusk.Dawn' is switched On And From Sunset - 3 hours <---- can never trigger code because first line is only true when *it* is happening To Sunset (same day) <---- this will cause Else to run but since you have none no disabling is needed Then Set Scene 'Sunset' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Is this making any sense for you?

Watch the program icons to see if it stays solid green. If it does then the Then section is still running. You may have to enable this feature from a pulldown menu in the Admin Console. There is also a problem with the timing as given. After the 25 minutes of On you will have to wait another 35 minutes for the repeat Wait. The ISY Repeat construct has a syntax error built into it. Repeat ever 35 minutes really means the equivalent of "Repeat with a 35 minute Wait". With a 25 minute Wait inside the loop, the total time would be 60 minutes.

Yup http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17365-v5-restoring-light-levels-after-other-uses/

OK you need to focus and attempt to resolve your problems with the help of many other knowledgeable users here or you can pack your stuff and run away from it. You spent a lot of money to get a good HA system and most of us believe you did, with Insteon and ISY. Yes Insteon has some problems and you have some older units that may really stink, in comparison to newer revisions, but you can't blame an accident of somebody mistakenly violating an appliance application on the power grid, your electrical distribution panel, your wiring, Insteon devices, or your ISY HA. Appliances are created to withstand being used 24x7 without danger if the warnings are adhered to. I hear your frustrations, and you aired them loudly, but it sounds like you were well on your way to resolving all your problems before your first post here. Figure out what you really want out of forum users, like yourself, and let's move forward. We have a lot of expertise here. Don't bite the hand that feeds you. In summary - education of the causing party has been done - the possibility of future hazards have been reduced with lower power bulbs. - ISY boot up routines can be used to alleviate some of the Insteon shortcoming (On after power drop) - Sectionalising your big loads can help with generator shock using existing Insteon switches. - replacing bad Insteon switches with newer units will help the ALL ON load shock - replacing large lighting loads with lower power as money and technology gets better will help down the road. At this point I am not sure if you have communication problems with your new devices or not. I don't use any All Off commands. I use a scene to turn all units off and it always works. Is there other items people can help you with or did I miss anything? Try to remember that text only mediums are not good conveyors of information without lots of detail and no sidetracking of subject matter. Misunderstandings are easy to create, and will sidetrack your ultimate goal, to use the brains of the experts and massive help available here.

Is this back to the future? Can you post your program so I can look at it?

Relax. Water heater "automatic operation being resumed" was the implied function by Stu. He knows his stuff. Shutting your water heater is not done at the thermostat but at the breaker or switch. If you had HA control on it that is exactly where it would "shut it off", not "turn the temperature up and down".

It's probably just the LEDs themselves. I have another one over my Kitchen sink that has begun to flicker occasionally. This $40 bulbs has been installed for about 6 months now and has slowly begun to get worse. At least now I can identify what is happening as this is in the centre of my gathering room and we thought we were blinking at the same time I need to get on a ladder soon, and replace this one. I think it was a Philips or some other big expensive name but where do I find a receipt for a light bulb? Who kept those things. Things are a changing,. Oh yeah. No Insteon involved, just a relay based MS. Real automation.

That makes sense. I assume the humidifier is mounted on the furnace and you don't want the humidifier running unless the heat is running. There may be logic to do this in the Venstar. Testing should tell.