larryllix

Again. To put the MS in linking mode press and hold the button until the red LED starts flashing slowly. Do not press it again until done. I see no off timer or sequence to turn the light off and you have a few redundant lines. Big Bathroom Sensor On - [iD 0016][Parent 0017] If Control 'Bathroom Big-Sensor' is switched On And Control 'Bathroom Big-Sensor' is not switched Off <-------this line runs else. else is empty Then Enable Program 'Big Bathroom Sensor 2 Off' Set Scene 'Live - Key H' Off Wait 15 minutes Set 'Bathroom Big Micro Dim' Off <------------if all else fails turn it off anyway Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Big Bathroom Sensor 2 Off - [iD 0019][Parent 0017][Not Enabled] If Control 'Master Bed Motion-Sensor' is switched On And Control 'Master Bed Motion-Sensor' is not switched Off <-------this line runs else....else is empty Then Set 'Bathroom Big Micro Dim' Off Wait 3 seconds Set Scene 'Live - Key H' On Disable Program 'Big Bathroom Sensor 2 Off' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Read the manual very carefully. I know it's is there and still have trouble finding it when looking to reverify but... The button on the back when held puts the MS into linking mode. Two more taps gets it back to normal. Each tap on the button ends a toggling status to the ISY. So ISY will register motion On/Off/On/Off. This is independent of any other settings. Seven rapid taps on the button will force the Dark sensor to send it's status IF the status has changed. My last one only takes five taps. Make sure the dark level setting is reasonable and point it at alternate lighting levels ie. dark/light/dark/light.... It takes a few seconds for the sensing circuit to readjust each time before doing this.

As a slight variant and addition to that, above, have a very long time off on the bathroom light and if motion is detected in the hallway make an assumption the person left and shorten the time off for the bathroom. If bathroom motion is detected again, reset the sequence and start a very long timer again. This gives a compromise that can work for people not moving too much. I wouldn't put a short auto-Off in a bathroom. You may be caught in the shower in the dark. Energy saving with the new LEDs will never pay for the MS anymore. It's about convenience now. I can walk in most common areas in my home now with my hands full of boxes and never have to touch a lightswitch. I have MSes in all my bedrooms and occasionally I get asked by guests making sure they are not webcams.

The learning curve for event based software can be tough for some people. It will come. I spent a few years working on an event based system that controlled electrical grid systems that controlled a good portion of our economic area of the province. You make mistakes on that one you pay and pay so dummy training systems and emulators were written to prove everything before installation into the real deal. Even still, ISY gave me a run for my money. Now when I look back at programs I wrote a year ago I think, "That's dumb. I could have done it this way, so much better". Don't be discouraged. Use canned programs from people and you will still find yourself improving on them for your needs, and then improving them again, later. It's a cool hobby controlling the world.

I avoid scenes in most cases for clarity and lack of comm handshake. However they do afford an increase in speed for response when ISY is not involved eg. MS/LampLinc and the reduction in lines of code for multiple devices is nice.

But Windows still cannot print out a directory listing. It was so easy on a Unix work-alike system back in the 80s.

Thanks giesen! I've been looking for a service like that for many years. Perfect location too, although I am now 4 hours away but once or twice a year.... I really should give aartech.ca a kick again. They usually have prices in Can that can't be beat.

Control statement are not two state. Statuses are two state. Status can be On or Off Control can be On, Off or neither, Three states..

Well there are a few methods. Use a pink noise generator in the kid's room. Ring the doorbell every five minutes while he/she sleeps to condition a lack of response. Wait until they are teenagers sleeping, then you won't be able to get to answer the door if you try. You have to cook pizza for that

Yup. All devices should also send the analogue value and just let the home automation controller sort it out. Sometime we don't want all the distributed intelligence and want more control, but technology is changing rapidly and it was created in an older technology era....what?... five ten years ago?

Just doing a review of the literature n the two devices the T8900 states it supports third party api whereas the T7900 doesn't. Can the T7900 be controlled from ISY without another box of is another box (RPi) required to comm between the two? Another concern is the use of C degrees. Do these stats suddenly pop up with at least 0.5 degree resolution when C is turned on? I can't find any indication of that.

Thanks Paul. Unfortunately the $190 turns out to be $419 after participation in their RipUglobex shipping program. This is the same baloney that eBay is ripping foreign importers off with. Now our dollar is caving with the oil prices but adding on huge amounts to the already quoted $23 to ship UPS to Canada is ridiculous. I'll be watching closer for other sources but I have t make sure this stat has the capability to run my heating systems.

I've been looking for a Venstar but can't seem to find even a trace of one like the T8900. Seems like they are vapourware.. EDIT: Ooops I just found one at $469...ouch!

You should be able to set your scene to any level you want at any time. Read the example programs here http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16694-50-latency-question/

I think of control and status as Control is the signal sent from a device and status is the current state of a device. So you can send and receive a "control On" signal as many times as you want but once the device has "status On" it won't change anymore. Event based programming is quite different than linear flow programming although we do use the latter inside our programs. It can give linear flow programmers a tough time at the beginning.

Interesting I have just had two batteries go dead in MS units and neither reported a lowBatt. One unit had to be factory reset and restored. The other just self-healed after battery replacement. Some testing is coming. I need to fix my variable PS unit first. @Michael. The MS units can take a few minutes after making adjustments to recover and act properly. The factory reset is a prerequisite for the MS units. Over half of mine (I have 9) acted really strange until factory reset.

Those 9v battery clips get broken wires inside them really easily but if you have warranty go after it.

Geeesh. I would get a text message 5 minutes after the visitor left, sometimes. I couldn't rely on that system to notify me before the visitor beat the door down and was driving down the street again. SMS is background processing for the mobile providers and gets delivered when the comms are not busy. I used to be able to rely on Blackberry BBMs for instant messages but even they can come in an hour later lately. The light flash sounds good but I doubt I would see lights outside on the deck in the sun. Insteon really needs a chime. If you went directly into the IO Link, isn't there a way to disconnect the input from the output contact? I created and wired my own system with a relay but the whole thing nullifies your Elk setup.

Temperature inside relative to outside always feels right when first entering abuilding but after sitting and cooling off for an hour the temperature becomes more critical. Years ago, in another forum, a person reported using their thermostat as a low limit cut-out for their A/C and wired a humidistat in series with it. After some experience they claimed it worked very well and were quite impressed with the non-play comfort levels.. For the price of a humidistat it may be worth a try. Our problem here in Ontario is the humidity gets so brutal, sometimes without enough heat.to make the AC run much. If you have your windows open until the humidity occasionally pops up it can be too late and you have at least one sweaty toss'n turn night, with the A/C running all night, for sure. If the temperature drops the A/ is done and won't take it out then you have a few sweaty toss'n turn nights. Where I am right now I see over a huge valley and when it gets into the summer 30 degrees++ (86-97F) you can't see to the other side for a light fog hanging in the air. What am I doing here?

Heating failure should not be a problem. I use mine for that also. This assumes that you want to detect the temperature to avoid freeze ups of pipes etc. that can happen below 0 degrees C. For a small safety margin I assume your notifications are set to 4-6 degrees C, in order to give plenty of time to compensate with automatic heaters, or a human response, to the remote location. That works just fine with the Insteon thermostats 2441(Z)TH series. Here is a previous thread regarding freezing temperature measurement. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15148-temperature/?hl=%2Bfreezing+%2B2441zth&do=findComment&comment=128502

The 2441ZTH cannot do outdoor temperature ranges. I have two I have tested and they cannot send a negative Celsius temperature. The unit's electronics also quits functioning just below freezing. The remote input is not transmitted. Some have swapped the two input wiring for this but the range is still not capable of outdoor temperature ranges. 0-255 counts (one byte) @ 0.5 deg.C per count = 0.0C - 128.5C

The Insteon thermostats die just below freezing and cannot output negative temperatures for C scales. Is your range required restricted and will the Aeon device accommodate that range for outdoors? Hook it up with a NiMH battery and a small solar cell stolen from a solar lamp sized to not cook the battery.

There was a metal stud building era where metal boxes and metallic cable were both used. I had house like that. It wasn't uncommon to see me drill holes spaced one inch apart for the whole 16" span of a stud spacing just to find a stud. Darn tinfoil things were terrible to find and just pushed out of the way if you didn't drill a thread hole first for the screw to tap into. Aluminum wiring too.

Devices do not send out Insteon commands when they receive a command from another device, only when they get operated themselves, usually by a human or other sensory input. Thus no infinite loop. Note Stu posted "suppose". He was talking hypothetical. He's tricky that way

Yup! You got it! Time frames are tricky gotcha ones. When you use If From 6:00 AM To 1:00 PM Then ---- Else ---- At 6:00 AM Else stops running (if it is) and Then starts runnning At 1:00 PM Then stops running (if it is) and Else starts running You can use the time frame as a condition / filter for another trigger (you usually have no lines of code in Else) by putting the time frame in another program with the disabled checked This stops that program from triggering and auto-running. If Control Switch is On <--- anytime switch is tapped at the top, this is an event trigger Then Run TimeFilter_Program (if) Else ---- <--- will never run 'cause nothing will trigger a logical False in the If TimeFilter_Program (disabled) ---------------------------- If From 6:00 AM <----this does NOT trigger then to run automatically to 1:00 PM <-----this does NOT trigger Else to run automatically Then do something <---- this will run if inside time frame if the Switch is tapped up Else do something else <---- this will run if outside the time frame is the Switch is tapped up Weird at first, but you it will become more natural with practice.