larryllix

Just plug a dual-band module into the other phase of your electric service that your PLM isn't plugged into. Hopefully both of these devices can be located close to your electrical panel for radial spread to all circuits. AP and Extenders do the same thing as any dual-band Insteon device. They may do it with a stronger signal but I, personally, have never needed one. I leave a spare On/Off module plugged into a circuit running off the phase opposite to where my PLM is plugged into. Check your electrical panel. One leg or phase will have all even numbered breakers and the other leg or phase will have all odd numbered breakers. Read the link you provided. It describes the two phases problem quite well with illustrations In my case my other phase may be generated by an inverter and may not be connected to my main panel at all. The RF transmission of the PLM talks to it (On/Off module) and the On/Off plug-in module converts the RF signals to powerline signals and spreads the good word on that phase. The AP was created when Insteon did not have dual band capabilities as older modules and battery devices don't.

OK maybe that is why I have gotten this response before at other times. You drinkin' rum up there too? "Earth to TeleTeken....Earth to TeleTeken..."

I will repost this here then This takes up to four programs but could be combined into three possibly or jus two if the direction of travel is known. I present it as educational tool. If MS1 is switched 'On' Then Enable 'Program1' Wait 1 Minute Disable 'Program1' Else -- If MS2 is switched 'On' Then Enable 'Program2' Wait 1 Minute Disable 'Program2' Else --- Program1 (disabled) ------------- If MS2 is switched 'On' Then do stuff - motion went from MS1-MS2 Else --- Program2 (disabled) ------------- If MS1 is switched 'On' Then do stuff - motion went from MS2-MS1 Else ---

hmmmm... no such luck. "Not accepting PMs"

Your PM's turned off or full?

We just had this conversation here. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14560-complex-trigger/

Have a look at these and drool. Good for -55°C to +125°C http://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/analog/sensors-and-sensor-interface/DS18B20.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-DS18b20-Waterproof-Temperature-Sensors-Temperature-Transducer-NIGH-/141353658186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e955a74a

OK, Frosty! You have a bank account that is overdrawn by $20. Your balance is: -20 dollars Now you decide to add some money to your bank account and deposit another 10 dollars. Now your balance is: -10 dollars hmmmm... do I need to express this in ounces of rum? We have an expression for those temperatures dealing with metal and a particular animal! "clink, clink" Where are you?

You should to start a new thread with something about "support" in the title. Many here report using this beep successfully. The quest is hidden here and probably a hijack of the thread. The forum also requires an account that some may not prefer.

I could see the LED flash (pardon the pun), for the few devices that aren't behind furniture, but the beepers (for me) are a waste of time. None of my 25 or so can be heard more than about 3 feet away even with all audio devices off and our home is extremely quiet to outside noise. Perhaps the KPL units make louder sounds. It would seem the units have blinking built in to accommodate the setting table being implemented in some versions, so the control of it would be an easy addition. Just have the beep length function converted to a beep count instead. The protocol with the passed parameter should already be in place.

I have a similar situation. The Insteon traffic is just swamped with activity and you cannot depend on anything getting through. When I arrive home I press a sequence to turn off a beeping X10 module. Sometimes it continues to beep for another 60 seconds after. You may need to spread those beeps out even more to get reliable responses. The beep variable is a dummy and has no bearing on time length. The syntax of the Repeat is incorrect. "REPEAT 1" means do not repeat at all. Should have been "REPEAT END"

I have no KPL units so maybe they are louder than all the plug modules and SwitchLincs that I have. I seem to have better responses if I insert and entrance WAIT 1-2 seconds on items that are just counting or tracking things. This seems to give the time critical response programs a better response time. This becomes especially important with X10 command transmissions that can collide with Insteon stuff. Try 2 seconds between each beep also. I also find that Rest commands cannot get through for over 20 seconds each night when the Query ISY runs @ 3:00 AM.

Those beeps without any break tie my ISY up for about 4-5seconds each where nothing else get handled. I see long "system busy" pop-ups on my screen repeatedly. When I tried using them I had to insert WAITs between them to allow other processing. I finally stopped using them as not one of the 25 units I have, that beep, can be heard more than a few feet away in a quiet room.

I have to agree but I don't believe he needs two of the three lines leaving only If Control 'Kit Sink Light / Hot Water Kit' is switched On With just this line the timer would be retriggered each time you pushed the 'Hot Water Kit' button. I am not sure why you would want to test if the pump is already on. Possibly so the timer cannot retrigger and be extended?

With that logic Intertek would be dead in the water shortly also. I doubt that will happen as most of the appliances in your house are made by the same company under dozens of other names. Second sourcing sounds like a big deal to some but Windows is still alive and kicking. From reading other forums Z-wave has too many problems. Things do change and evolve though.

I was thinking the same thing and that would mean a wired in fan controller should do the job...maybe. Ceiling fans usually just stick different caps in series with the fan motor to reduce voltage without chopping waveforms or causing heat in the components (pf=0) . This would mean hacking into internal wiring of the humidifier though.

We used a lot of serial ports also with electrical grid protection equipment but in the last two decades it was disappearing fast for the same reasons it would on the ISY with multiple PLMs. Terminal servers were not popular, not very standard, and not cheap like routers and switches, the new serial port. The serial port is not even included in computers for the last ten years. That drives the market eventually. Would we really want a serial port if we had an Insteon / X10 PLM, a Z-Wave PLM, a Zigbee PLM and a UPB PLM connected to our ISY for simultaneous usage ? What now for the ISY or other HA controllers? A serial port smart switch that can pick the appropriate PLM? Multiple serial ports on every HA controller? Not likely the new industry will go backwards on that one when they can drop in an industry standard interface for a few bucks. Why would a manufacturer create all these PLMs to support every HA protocol with a serial port? They wouldn't if only one HA company supported that interface. I would be sure the interchangeable PLMs would be aimed at all HA companies to make their HA controller expandable to any system, an attractive feature for sales. What if we had to connect the Admin Console via serial port? What if we wanted our PLM to connect to two HA controllers with a serial port interface? The HA market is becoming popular and beginning to boom. Not locking the public into one expensive system protocol would appeal to the masses much more than a completely disposable mistake in selection. The Ethernet PLM is going to come. It's already on so many devices, now. The SmrtHome Hub is an Ethernet PLM already.

How much is the google watch? It appears to do exactly the same thing.

We need a new ISY that has support for these protocols via Ethernet. Then bridges, for any protocol that comes out in the future, can be produced to support it. We are still talking to our PLMs with serial signals. I see an end to that style coming.

The SwitchLinc is directly connected internally to the light controller in the same SwitchLinc. Scene adjustments only apply to that link in the SwitchLinc dimmer and local paddle controls will not be affected. You can adjust the local controls to a dimmed semi-on position so that the local paddle will activate the SwitchLinc to that level and ramp speed. Your scene in the ISY should detect the paddle signal and send out the scene signal to override the local levels. The change in brightness and ramp speed should be hardly noticeable if the local levels are set low enough. BTW: If you are not using the 'Else' section you do not need the "To" in the 'If' time range. It's only job is to run the 'Else'.

It is most likely a synchronous, shaded pole motor, similar to the one in most bathroom vents and old phonograph motors. You can dim them all you want and they will stay the same speed as long as they can keep up. The harmonics from the dimmer may damage the motor and/or the low average voltage from the dimmer may make the current increase to the point of damaging the dimmer.

If you use two wire only devices the load has to be incandescent. These devices use the load as the return (neutral) wire for their small amount of running power. It's not enough to light an incandescent bulb but It usually causes CFLs and LEDs to flicker when turned off. LEDs and CFL bulbs chop up the AC waveform and would cause a two wire SwitchLinc to malfunction. The 2477D is NOT a two wire device, which means it has to have a neutral connected to it. This circumvents these problems. An incandescent bulb is one with a filament in it that works by heating the filament to white hot. Halogen lamp bulbs are also incandescent. This problem exists with most motion sensors also. If you have a controller string of lights (more than one) you can use CFL or LEDs usually by using just one incandescent mixed in. The lack of neutral problem is typically created by electricians wiring the circuits to the light's octagon box first. Octagon boxes have a lot more volume inside them and can accommodate more wires (by code and actual practice) for all the connections involved with a continuing cable run. To accommodate the switch for the light they run a 14/2 cable to the switchbox location to go over to the switch and back with the switched power. There will be no neutral at the switchbox, in this scenario. Receptacles always have to have a neutral on one side.

All your devices require a neutral. The neutral wire is the white wire that electricity, passing through a load, returns to the electrical panel. Do you have an older house with knob and tube wiring? If so you may not have ground wires in most places but neutral is a basic requirement for electricity to flow.

I would have just programmed the SwitchLinc to work with the X10 commands until I got more Insteon devices to support the mesh-network they thrive on so well.

Did you do a factory reset on the SwitchLinc before linking to the ISY? I don't know how they set these devices but mine have almost all done really strange things if I didn't factory reset every new device. - remove the device completely from ISY - factory reset the SwitchLinc. Most units do this by pulling the tab out for about 10-15 seconds and then pushing it in holding it in until it stops buzzing. This usually takes a tool to poke it deep enough andnotpause at the operating / normal position.. Release and it should turn the light on. - relink it to the ISY using the address of the unit. xx.xx.xx -if the device shows up in the ISY devicetreetry to operate the controls on it's page. Let us know.