jtara92101

We don’t know when the picture was taken, and of course I was curious and I noticed there is a lot of office space for lease in the area - at least when photos were taken. I infer from addresses that UDI’s suite is in the back of the building somewhere. Was there any update on the impact of fires on company operations? The major ones are just now 100% contained. Still looking for that miracle turning water into wine. However: turns out the Army Corps of Engineers uselessly and wastefully diverted water from N. California to the inland “bread basket” area on the east side of the mountains, and there are concerns about available water for crops this summer. Maybe employees are all going out snapping up the last available chest freezers? I put one in my Michigan basement a month ago, snappy new WiFi model from Home Depot that was on sale end of the year. Made in China, of course. Boy am I glad I did. From power measurements the thing might even have an unadvertised inverter, or at least somehow variable compressor. Gonna go grab the last of that Canadian beef before it stops coming over the bridge. All in jest and satire - sort of - but also pointing out that the LA area is particularly affected by recent natural and unnatural phenomena, so cut them some slack.

Midnight drop? Or Midnight pity party? No wine before its time? Or no wine? We need divine intervention. Encino surely has water by now. The big guy turned on the tap!

I'm facing a similar issue, and having trouble following this. What's different is that from a few days ago, I'm suddenly unable to affect the state of bulbs from the AC. (Or from linked Insteon buttons, which is how I discovered this...) I got notices in the log about groups and bulbs not existing. And also a Python error with traceback. (wish I'd saved that...) I decided to re-install the Hue plugin, and I installed on a different slot, because of tips here. Now I'm in the condition where PG sees the bridge, and the bridge is connected. I can't get it to populate the bulbs. Hub button, restart, still only shows 1 node, the bridge. As with OP, I got no request to push the button (when I tried it without pushing the button first). I did add the hub IP address, though it works (such as it is) either way. A really detailed how-to would be useful, vs. the very terse comments in the README.

I assume there will be an announcement in the slow-moving “announcements” section. The app has had graphing for a while - you have to enable it on eISY with a secret incantation I don’t remember off-hand. I don’t have much I can graph, though I have an Ecobee and sensors and it indeed makes graphs. And oh ah say, ah say Paul - I just realized we’re neighbors. Hello from Lathrup Village!

Same thing here. Documentation is vague. On first start, I will "receive a PIN". Where/how?

When I start IoX Finder on MacOS (Sonoma 14.1.2), I have great difficulty clicking on the URL to open the console or Polyglot. I have to try several times, sometimes it highlights the URL, sometimes it brings up the menu, sometimes it brings up the menu and then the menu disappears. I usually have to close IoX Finder and re-open several times before it randomly works. What's the secret handshake?

I'm gonna take a stab at it, as a long-delayed introduction to developing Polyglot plugins. I have mostly Hue bulbs, but I could not bring myself to pay the price ($54 each!) for 5 1.5W Hue "candle" bulbs in a dining room chandelier. (PLUS I'd have to use socket adapters, as my chandelier has standard E26 bases, and the available white+color candle-shape Hue bulbs have E12 base.) Naw dawg, not $270 to light a chandelier! So, I got a bunch of Hue and 5 Wiz bulbs. When I got them, I did a bit of digging, and demonstrated I was able to control them easily using Curl from a command-line window in MacOS. Shouldn't be very difficult.

The documentation/"more info" link in the Polyglot 3x store page doesn't work. "Not found". https://github.com/UniversalDevicesInc-PG3/udi-sun-poly/master/blob/README.md If I push that button (MacOS/FirefoxPolyglot V3 via I0X Finder) it takes me to the above link and I get "not found". I found the following in a topic on this forum: https://github.com/UniversalDevicesInc-PG3/udi-sun-poly/blob/master/README.md This link works. Took me a minute to spot the difference: the correct link reads blob/master while the incorrect link reads master/blob. I had some trouble figuring out the format of the parameters. I fiddled around and finally got the format for latitude and longitude, and now I get values. Still unsure about height. Feet or meters? That's not in the documentation. But at least now I can find the Github repo and read the code to figure it out. Edit: answer - the poly uses astral.geocoder. https://astral.readthedocs.io/en/latest/ There's a note in the documentation: And then I found this about Astral.Observer: A float that is the elevation in metres above a location, if the nearest obscuring feature is the horizon

Wiz has completely replaced Hue in some and much diminished in others big box stores. E.g. Target sells Wiz but not Hue. Home Depot has reduced Hue to the bottom shelf of an end cap, the rest of the end cap being Wiz products. And you can buy Wiz in supermarkets.

Thanks, Michael. Good to know it's just a software entitlement/download. I found this: https://www.dteenergy.com/us/en/insight/insight-features.html Energy Bridge is a ZigBee dongle that provides real-time data directly from the meter. I'll check with DTE to see if I'm eligible. Can eISY talk to the bridge? OpenADR is for this, or for talking to an Internet API? Looks like they are using this (Powerley) bridge currently. And I came across threads talking about connecting to it with Home Assistant. So, assume I'll be able to talk to it once I get one. https://csa-iot.org/csa_product/energy-bridge-2/ There's a reasonable $1.99/mo subscription fee. Thinking this has nothing to do with OpenADR - which is a separate concern, right?

I'd like to better understand the add-on OpenADR Production Certificate. I've moved to a new (old) home, and want to order an eISY as a replacement for my existing ISY994i and Polisy. (As well, I've a developer, and interested in what I can do in the super-niche area of steam heat... perhaps some AI to model house heat gain/loss, see if there's some way to optimize use of a steam heating system in conjunction with a heat pump (currently, no A/C, heat pump might be more economical just to "take the chill out" in spring/fall), remote-adjustable air valves, etc. My electric utility just started TOU billing so interested in high-level management of loads). Anyway, I've got a meter that I'm unsure if I can read with eISY, will get to that in a sec. My main concern is, I want to get the eISY ordered, and uncertain exactly what to order. Is eisy | OpenADR just eisy with a production certificate? Is OpenADR capability able to be added later by adding a production certificate? Is any add-on hardware needed to communicate with a meter? I notice there's a (small) discount ordering eisy | OpenADR vs adding certificate later, though that's not a big concern. Maybe somebody can comment on my meter, while we're at it: OpenWay by Itron, Centron. CL200 240V 3W TYPE C2S0D 30TA 1 OKh, dated 9/11 FCC ID 5K9AMI5JC-AMI6, MODULE: AMI6 Utility is DTE (Michigan). Does the utility have to do something, or do I have to get some code or certificate or something from them? Anything needed to add to this? Advisable to wait for ZMater USB to be out of beta? I've got a ton of Insteon, some of which I will use, some Hue bulbs and strips, a little bit of Wiz, want to explore WLED. a few Sonoff S31 that I haven't flashed yet that I've been using to measure critical and constant loads (generator or battery still a necessity in the offing, welcome to Michigan!)

apnar has it! Here's a useful summary of the process and why it's named that way: https://www.stimmel-law.com/en/articles/assignments-benefits-creditors-abcs-basics-california According to above, an ABC is an alternative to formal bankruptcy. "The Assignee is generally an unrelated professional liquidator selected by the Assignor. The Assignee gathers the Assignor’s assets and sells the Assignor’s right, title and interest in those assets, then distributes the proceeds to Creditors in accordance with statutory priorities. The Assignee has a fiduciary duty to the Creditors. Assignee’s duties include protecting the assets of the estate, administering them fairly and representing the estate. Assignee is free to enter into contracts to recover assets or liquidated claims, e.g. filing suit or taking other action." --- A tough search, because the California Alcohol and Beverages Commission is also referred to as "ABC", so "California ABC <insert anything here>" results are dominated by alcohol licensing information. Maybe a good thing, we could all use a stiff one I'm sure!

Exactly what it says. A completely new, and transitory company (likely in it's charter it is for the purpose of winding-up). Clearly, the party of the first part isn't going to sue the party of the second part for trademark infringement. But aren't these usually named like "blah blah liquidation company", etc.?

I see what you did there!

Seems like everyone, and they have prioritized them in order of who is more likely to have a claim. I think the legal process requires them to notify all suppliers and customers. Because some customers may have sent in warranty returns that they won't get back, might have been billed for products they will never received, may have warranty coverage that will now be useless, may have paid for an online subscription that now gives them no benefit, and "deserve to know".

Haha, so you want to know if your R/O system leaks. Must be RO/DI. I get about 15ppm out of the RO (with permeate pump) and 1ppm after two stages of DI. Then re-mineralization cartridge to the little faucet and fridge. I have a valve and tube I can use to draw DI water for mixing up household cleaning solution, plants, etc. It's suitable for a reef tank (which I don't have, no fishies in my high-rise condo, no thank you) and in fact I purchased from a company that specializes in that use. (Reef tanks and saltwater aquariums best practice is go as close to 0 as possible, then add suitable minerals. I actually know somebody who has a business maintaining reef tanks. He was on an episode of Tanked!)

Also, check for loose/missing connections! I had until recently persistent problems communicating between the PLM and one particular room, and in particular the SwitchLinc at the entrance to that room. (master bedroom) I was focused on my electrical system (unconventional for residential 3-phase system, where every other apartment is on two alternating legs of a 3-phase system, providing anomalies including the two legs not being 180 degrees out of phase with each other, and 208-volt appliance outlets...) as well as noise from my computers and "honking" UPS. (PLM is near the computers/UPS). I've tried all sorts of things, the most promising was running a long extension cord to the master bedroom to plug-in the PLM. Well, I recently move an OutletLinc from the master bedroom to entrance hallway, because I no longer needed it after updating to 5.x and Polyglot (on Polisy) and was able to install Hue bulbs in bedside lamps and integrate with the SwitchLinc and so no longer needed the OutletLinc. So, I wanted to move the OutletLinc to the hallway for a neater installation than the 2-pin dimmer that was there. (Outlet vs plug-in dongle). When I removed the OutletLinc, I noticed that one of the wires was loose or perhaps not connected at all. I *think* it was the neutral. But not sure how that OutletLinc even worked if there was no neutral connected. In any case, it was AT LEAST loose, and then perhaps was creating noise. After swapping the BR OutletLinc with the conventional outlet in the hall, no more communication problems! PLM no longer has any trouble communicating with the MBR devices, and it's plugged in right next to the computer (no long extension cord). I had checked and re-check the SwitchLinc wiring, thinking if there was a wiring problem, it MUST be there. Check ALL the outlet/switch wiring to make sure it is snug!

I gather UDI Mobile was never released for iOS, just some beta testing that didn't go so great? For iOS, geofencing can/should be centrally managed by the OS. Applications register for notifications, and get notified based on their chosen criteria. e.g. notify me every n seconds, every n feet or miles, or upon crossing a boundry. Apps wake up momentarily when they are notified, they are expected to handle the notification and then return. If the app was sleeping, it goes back to sleep. iOS is careful to use the fewest resources needed to satisfy the aggregate needs of apps that register for geolocation notifications. Android I am less familiar with, I can't imagine it is different! But if most/all of the Android geofencing apps have a power management problem, perhaps Android has done dealt with this as well as iOS. I write apps using a cross-platform framework. (Rhodes/Rhomobile). The framework exposes almost all device capabilities using common interfaces. So, I write once, only very occasionally writing "native extensions". (This doesn't need one.) UI is in a WebView using HTML/CSS/JS so quick to throw together a UI. MVC is in Ruby, it is very similar environment to Ruby on Rails server with browser. (The "server" is in the app.) Contrary to popular belief, there are no performance issues vs "native" code. I've incorporated geolocation in a couple of apps for clients, but haven't had a need for geofencing. And I did a native iOS taximeter, but would never go native today. Too much low-level work and too much to learn for two platforms! So, will be interesting to see if it turns out the Android battery performance sucks...

Yea, we cross-posted. I just discovered that, would never have found it without actually setting up a geofence and device. Oh, no IFTTT needed can do it just in Locative? I guess I needed IFTTT previously (haven't had any kind of occupancy set up for a while) in order to set a variable on the ISY so had to have ISY/IFTTT integration set up and then could use IFTTT to set the variable. There are some bells/whistles obviously with the short code generation and communication of the uuid I will look into. I've got a better way yet. Would have to convince UDI to display a QR code in the portal. Already have the app for that. cut/paste exercise.

Oh, geez, OK, I just now got the bright idea to click on the "Help" button! (In my defense, I would have never seen the Help button had I not just been curious enough to set up a geofence and device... I see there is a URL to hit when in, and when out. So, sure easy enough to set up with Locative and IFTTT. But for the unwashed public, would be better if it "just works" without having to involve IFTTT and typing of URLs. I'm just going to go ahead and write the app. Piece of pie. For starters, will need to type in uuid, which is painful but proof of concept. Assume there is a bit more to the API than the in/out. Is the API public? If not, I will check with Michael.

Unclear from those links how I would integrate specifically with Occupancy 2.0. I must be missing something here... I already set a home/away variable locally using Locative and IFTTT. But that's not the same as Occupancy 2.0. Guessing here... if I install Occupancy 2.0, then I will get some inputs/outputs that I can use in a Program? So, the I can use Locative (or whatever) to set home/away and/or some more specific value(s) like distance? I did set up Occupancy 2.0 once. I will do so again and poke around a bit more.

Thanks. It's an odd UI. The 4.x sliders were more intuitive. "On" is odd wording for "level"! But I know it is difficult to come up with a term that will fit all contexts. Naming is the hardest problem in software development!

Yes, the lights are dimmable. The fixtures are so old they have REAL transformers! I solved it by replacing one of the framing projector lamps with a 35W halogen. It's the largest poster, it needed more brightness anyway. Yea, that one wall washer is WAY too close to the fire sprinkler! It has a small LED "cornrow" in it though. Not the 100W halogen it was made for! Looking for higher wattage bayonet base cornrows. Mostly they lie about the wattage...

Probably 30W at full brightness, plus transformer losses. Ancient Lightolier track with 3 framing projectors with big chunky transformer bases, probably have 5W LEDs, and two 110V wall washers with bayonet base bulbs, I think not more than 8W LEDs in the wall washers. I'm constantly on the lookout for higher wattage bayonet base LEDs they are hard to find. Probably should get conversion adapters to candelabra screw base - the fixtures have plenty of room. I actually want to light two more pictures with framing projectors. Will have to check storage locker to see if I have any more, don't think so. I may have one or two spots though that are convertable by adding the FP accessory. The wall washers are too close to a fire sprinkler, otherwise I could put halogens in them and get the brightness I want and solve the minimum wattage requirement. Maybe one halogen in a framing projector. I've probably over-done being green. Think I'll try that - I have one large movie poster that could use more brightness anyway. I think I have some Yushios somewhere. Bet I can get a couple of those Lightolier FPs on eBay cheap... XXXXX nope. Lightolier FPs are like hens teeth! I'll put a halogen in the FP for my big movie poster.

Dredging this up, because I have this problem with a track with just 4 low-wattage LEDs at my entrance plugged into a 2476D. The lights cycle. Actually, I had been using a 2457D2 and had this problem only if I raised brightness to 100%. I thought perhaps the 2472D might have less trouble, as it is newer. And, also, it's a neater installation of course. I didn't want to run in-wall wiring to the track, and is easily hidden by I really wasn't thinking about LoadSense... So, maybe for now I will go back to the 2457D2 (Edit: nope, it seems to have permanent load sense, the manual doesn't even mention it. I think they started to call it "Load Sense" when they started letting dimmer outlets act as as a controller?) The OutletLinc Dimmer manual says that Load Sense can be disabled using "software such as Houselinc" So, could ISY please do whatever HouseLinc does? Pretty please? Maybe if we figure out what HouseLinc does? --- I tried the tippy-tappy procedure above, the LED acted the same, but did not disable Load Sense. I guess the one above is a Euro model?