jtara92101

Oh, yea, I turned off the local notifications because they were such an annoyance.

Mobilinc Connect does not help you to control Hue bulbs. You need the network module in order to make outbound requests from ISY. The Network Module is a one-time purchase. The Network Module is also INCLUDED if you get ISY Portal. ISY Portal is a two-year subscription. If you already have the Network Module, I believe you can be credited for it on some pro-rata basis against ISY Portal cost. Philips Hue is not seamlessly integrated by using the Network Module. You have to use programs to make network requests. The alternative is to run some node server on a rPi, always-on desktop, etc. - there are several that support Hue. Then the Hue devices appear just like any Insteon or Z-wave node. I dunno about Hue sensors. That's in the opposite direction. Does the Hue gateway have some ability to send network requests? I'm sure Hue owners here can comment. You do not need any add-ons to RECEIVE network requests. It can be done locally, or via UDI portal or Mobilinc portal. Again, not as nice and integrated as with a node server.

That makes sense, as Locative was sending push notifications. That requires that Locative maintain a server to send the pushes to Apple. (You can't do it directly from an app - they have to be consolidated into a single stream.) It would have eventually been booted from the App Store with broken functionality had they just shut off the server. Alternately, it could have been changed to send local notifications. But would have been a bit of work for the author. I'm assuming the idea behind the push notifications is that it was able to notify all devices on the account? Just a guess.

Actually, it's not just an issue with local loads! You have to think carefully, as well, if the paddle controls a scene. To avoid strangeness, you shouldn't do that, but have both both on/off and fast on/fast off just trigger programs. But, then, you will introduce a delay. That said, I use to to turn off all bedroom-area lights. (Bathroom, closet, led candles, floor lamps.) There is no load on my KPL. I could assign a button, but I thought the double-tap was more intuitive.

fast-on/fast-off events with a program are best done with a non-load device, or a device where the load is not in use. I found this out the hard way. The device will still control the load locally, and there is nothing you can do to change that. (Wouldn't it be so very nice if Insteon would provide a way to configure a device to decouple a switch paddle from the load!) If you are using the load on the dimmer, then, you are going to have some strangeness. The local load will immediately go to full-on or full-off (depending on where you tap) and then your program will do whatever your program does. The result may not be pleasing!

Well, how embarrassing! I just went to GitHub to make the repo public, and then I realized that when you fork a public project, it is public by default, and you can't even change that! (If you want to make it private, you have to make a NEW repo...) So, it's been public since I created it. I changed the name to distinguish it from the original, but any similarities that have not already faded away probably will. Here is the github link: https://github.com/watusi/google-cast-public-address I won't have much time to work on this for the next couple of months, but it is certainly much more functional than the original.

The frame and the buttons come as a set. That's how you change the color. You can use the frame and keep the buttons as spares. Look at the picture in the link that paulbates posted: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401wh6-6-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-white.html he suggested you might want to use the buttons that come-with, because yours might have faded, or just because of different color batch, and so might not exactly match the new frame. The white ones are on sale for $1.55. (Usually $5.99). But the Teken Tax (Canada Post) will kill you if you are in Canada. No part of the frame is clear, though. You might have a clear light-pipe (the colors of light-pipes are changeable, too...) If you broke a light pipe (not difficult to do... I can NEVER figure out which direction they go in...) you can order light pipe kits, and they are cheap too. The body of the KPL is clear. It is not a replacement part. Epoxy is your friend.

What color is it? I have a lot of spare frames/keys from a move. I went to basic white. One of the wonderful things about Insteon is that they have color-change kits - you can even change the color of the LED light pipes. A side-benefit is easily obtained spare parts for this sort of "oops". I have some ivory, grey, and light almond. I even have some custom-etched buttons. (The real ones, from SmartHome.) LOL, $1.55 on sale! Guess you don't really need my offer to send you one.

First off, in ISY-land, all of your devices are considered "nodes". Your Insteon devices are nodes. Your thermostats are nodes. Your Z-Wave devices are nodes. (Simplistic explanation, but should do for this.) 5.x introduces node servers. Node servers are some code that runs on some external computer or computers (which could be desktop, embedded (Raspberry Pi, etc.), or even built-in to some dedicated hardware device (anything from an outlet or dimmer to a microwave oven. I'm engaging in some wishful thinking here...) The ISY and the node server(s) talk to each other, and now that device acts just like any other ISY node. You see these external nodes in the admin console just as if they were "regular" ISY nodes. I think one of the first node servers that was written is one that integrates Hue lighting into ISY. ISY Portal extends that concept, so that node servers don't even have to be in your home - they could be somewhere else on the Internet. The possibilities are endless! For example, a node server might replace the functionality of the weather module. You might connect to a node server run by your electric utility, that might provide data about demand periods and might even allow your ISY to, say, switch between rate options. If you live in a high-rise, and all your neighbors have ISYs, it might even be possible then to use a node server in the basement to have all of your lights spelling out "Merry Christmas".

We should all hang our heads in shame! Except giesen: Use one or more Range Extenders: http://www.insteon.com/range-extender/ Or else, if you might find some use for the additional functionality, any dual-band Insteon device(s). Some have better range than others, though - search the forum. Apparently, the dual on-off outlet has particularly good range. I think better than the PLM itself or even the range extenders. It has the latest version of the Insteon RF circuitry, and they claim greater range. More Insteon products will probably be released with the greater range. Search the forum - it's been discussed here. I would not assume that it will be possible to find a single central location that will reliably reach all of your thermostats. That's the duct-tape and prayer solution. Please verify that your thermostats Use Insteon RF signaling, not Z-wave. I presume that is the case, since you have a PLM and don't have any other Insteon devices other than the thermostats.

Don't purchase a 994i. UDI has a generous upgrade offer. Contact them. I upgraded my a few years ago.

Comparing Ethernet to serial is not comparing apples to apples. Ethernet over Cat-n uses a fairly sophisticated signaling scheme. And is using multiple pairs. Serial RS-232 uses a very unsophisticated signaling scheme - simple mark/space. Above a certain voltage level is a 1. Below a certain voltage level is a 0. (There is some hysteresis.) The PLM has both RS-232 and TTL (5V) signal levels available, not sure which the ISY uses. Either way, RS-232 goes to pot when the signal edges get rounded enough to make bit recognition unreliable. RS-232 maximum length is speced at 50 feet for 19,200bps, OR a maximum measured capacitance of 2500pf. https://www.lammertbies.nl/comm/info/RS-232_specs.html I believe UDI specifies 10 feet. And, even so, urges you to "keep it short". Have you considered an extension cord for the power? Or, buy a pair of RS-232-over CAT5 extenders. You'd use the same CAT5 cable. It would be a bit goofy, you'd need to rig an adapter from the CAT5 connectors on the ISY and PLM to the standard RS-232 D-sub connectors on the extender.

Assuming somebody picks up the football. Which I assume they will. iOS apps aren't as easily sideloaded as Androld. If you have a developer account, and somebody has posted a built app, you can install it. If you have a developer account, you can build it yourself and load it. Anyone with a developer account can build it and submit it as a new app. If Apple has any fraud-protection procedure at all (which I assume they do) it will raise a red flag, and they will check with Marcus, and then make him go through some red-tape to allow somebody else to release it on the App Store. It will require some small changes. Either remove the login, or change the endpoint for login. UDI could publish it, hint, hint. I am sure it will all work out. Apple doesn't reach into your iOS device and remove apps, unless there is some really serious issue. Everyone is good for now.

The server will be shutting down. The server is convenient for diagnosis, but it is not necessary. The app(s) (iOS/Android) may need to eventually be updated if future OS updates break it. The app should continue to work for the near future at least. App caveats: - I don't know if it might throw annoying error messages once the server shuts down. But there is a "log out" in the app settings that ought to prevent this. - Apple may well balk if they realize that the app has a server login feature that now no longer works. I don't know if Marcus intends to update the app one last time to remove the login feature. The server was just made open-source I see. It is written in nodeJS/Express/MongoDB/Redis, which are popular and easy to host. The app was already open-source. Anybody that wants can clone the repo and publish their own version and run a server if they so choose, as it is all open source. Apple will complain if somebody calls it "Locative".

I guess Scott is not going to drive it. Just sit in it for a few minutes at a time and experience the "new car smell" and imagine the gauges moving. There is a car collector in my building. He has rented every available space that others are allocated but not using. He has some other places he keeps cars but a few of the nicest he keeps here. There is always a new surprise in the garage! I hope he doesn't catch wind of oxygen-deprived garage storage. I don't want to hold my breath from my parking space to the elevator!

I think I paid $180 for my Nest. Not sure if it was from Amazon Warehouse Deals or eBay. In any case, it was the latest model (this year), nothing wrong with it, I think it was just an unopened return. I signed up for an SDG&E (San Diego Gas and Electric) program where they will throttle it back on critical days, but then I can override it if I choose. I got a $50 debit card. I get another $25 debit card for every year I stay with the program. Slam dunk. I had a Venstar. I left it at my previous residence. I kept the Insteon plug-in interface. Anyone wants to buy it, message me. The Venstar was a PAIN to do home/away with ISY. I had to redundantly put the complete schedule in the Venstar itself and into an ISY program. The Nest has no communication with the ISY and I Don't Care. It Just Works. It does it's own home/away determination with the Nest app, and it is the best Home/Away that I have. I only wish I could use it for my ISY home/away, but the only way is with IFTTT and the IFTTT delay makes it impractical. OT, what ever happened with Honeywell vs. Nest? I had a MagicStat, back in the day - before Honeywell bought them. I coincidentally met the inventor (of MagicStat) back in Michigan. I was impressed, so I bought one - my little gesture of support. So little changed between MagicStat and Nest, over such a long time. The key concept behind MagicStat was you don't think about it. You just goosed it up or down as it suited your fancy, and it figured out what to do and when to keep your fingers off of the dial. It took 30 years for somebody else to finally get the idea that "don't think about it" is desirable. Nest adds IOT, presence, game-ification, and tweaks anticipatory action. Not sure about the lawsuit, I think it is/was a fine line. Did Nest violate the MagicStat patent? I dunno? I'd be more sympathetic if it were MagicStat, and not Honeywell. I'd rather have a 30 year old MagicStat than Venstar. If you like to fiddle, and think you know better, get a Venstar. This is pretty amusing: https://zoningsupply.com/blog/retro-thermostat-1982-electronics-guide-review-of-magic-stat I love my Nest. It's Back to the Future. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1985-10-11/entertainment/8503090437_1_thermostats-heat-home/2 OMG, you can still buy one. Or, somebody forgot to take their web site down: http://www.rexxindustrialparts.com/quad-six-magic-stat-ms2-programmable-thermosta2.html

If it can send using HTTP, then it can set send commands to ISY using the REST API. If it has an HTTP API, then the ISY can send commands to the VoxCommando. You will need to purchase the Network Module. (No Network Module needed for REST API - already included with base configuration.)

See also: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21620-google-home-now-supports-multiple-users/

You can set this up for even a single user. I just did it. The instructions are a bit confusing. Once you push the button to set it up, iOS (if using the iOS Home app) asks for permission to use the microphone. So, I go "ohoh" and go to the other room so as not to confuse it. Apparently, though, it listens both on your ios/Android device, as well as on Google Home. I guess it's either some additional microphone diversity, or a security measure. I had to go back to where Home could hear me to complete the setup. Waiting for Anderson or O'Reilly xxxxxxxx, or Harvey Levin to say "OK Google" and test...

I wonder if you can train it for only one person? If so.... thank you McDonalds! You did some good you didn't intend to. I'll give it a try. There's a good chance Anderson Cooper will inevitably say "OK, Google" in reporting on this. I'll see if I can get this set-up before the evening news...

Google Home seems to have gotten some elocution lessons. I'm not sure how successful they were. She's a bit sultry now, with a slight ironic twist. I would keep the knives away from the Home widget. I noticed it when she said "Thanks, but espresso gives me the jitters." this morning. (It's a routine we have...)

It is strange that you have a problem with this much load. I only have one place where I have a similar issue. In that case, the total load is probably no more than 30 watts. If I go to full brightness, it goes into a dim/brighten endless cycle, doh! You will have better luck I think if you use LED retrofits that have "color temperature changing" feature - like some Phillips. That is, they lower color temperature at low brightness. But, actually, they just have a few low color-temperature LEDs in the array that are "always on" at a constant brightness. So, it puts a floor on the load. How old are your Switchlincs? Newer Insteon products do a better job at low load than old ones. My problem lighting track is currently fed from a very old Lamplinc. But in my bathroom, I have a SL that works fine with a 16W load. It's actually not particularly new - not even dual-band.

Just call Smarthome and ask their advice. If they steer you the wrong way, they will cheerfully accept a return within 30 days, and usually will give a store credit for a reasonable period after that. Basically, they won't accept a return that they can't resell, because now the product is obsolete. The surest thing for this is to pick a device that has a physical relay output. Two terminals, the relay connects the terminals, and no internal connection to the AC. But there ARE DC SSRs. (Don't know if any Insteon products.) I/OLinc has a mechanical relay, rated at up to 5A at 30V. Is that enough for your lighting? Are you sure you don't want to dim the lights? You could purchase Insteon 0-10V ballast dimmers (on sale for $49.99 at SmartHome) along with 0-10V drivers. Is your lighting LED?

Sounds like a shorted control line. What brand and model of thermostat? What "programming"? Does the thermostat work correctly just on it's own, without the ISY doing anything with it? Kind of an out-there possibility, but are home HVAC thermostats (especially "smart" ones) designed to work with pool heaters? It may be too smart for it's britches, and get terribly confused by the radically different thermal characteristics of rooms full of air vs a pool full of water. And not to skip the obvious, but you have a thermocouple plugged into some thermostat that accepts an external input, not letting the thermostat measure the air temperature, right?