jtara92101

I don't find it weird. You are fighting with the basic functionality of the switch. You tap the top, the load turns on. You tap the bottom, the load turns off. Consider it "hardwired". In hindsight, it would have been a slicker design if the switchlinc could be configured to divorce the paddle from the load. Perhaps it could be a controller/responder pair, where it is pre-configured to link the controller to the responder, but you might be able to reconfigure to break that link. (And I've LONG wondered why they've never produced paddles and keypads that don't have the circuitry for controlling the load...) But the Insteon design is the Insteon design, and you can't blame UDI. You might be able to play some games with ramp rate to make the light turning on briefly when you don't want it to less noticeable. You could re-configure the ramp rate in a program. But be warned that repeatedly re-configuring will eventually wear the flash memory. I do have some older devices where the flash memory is now kaput. (But it ought to be much better with newer devices, just because of advances in flash memory.) The sort of thing you are doing would more typically be done with a keypadlinc, preferably with one of the little buttons, not the on/off that control the load. If the flash bothers you, follow previous advice and use a micro dimmer. They are a great product! I use one in a closet that had a pull-cord lamp which I replaced with a flat LED panel. A micro dimmer in the ceiling box and a mini remote switch stuck to the wall got rid of the hazardous (and illegal, at least by current code) glass globe and stupid pull-cord without tearing into walls. I will be using more micro dimmers!

Alas, you are always going to have a problem when you mix LEDs with incandescent on the same dimmer, or even if you mix brands of LEDs. Or even wattages of LEDs or specific products of a given brand. Most people will find it disturbing when they turn off at different places on the dimming curve! Experiment until you find something that is "less disturbing". Otherwise, use a program as shown above.

Did you set it to use DHCP? If you set it to DHCP, the router subnet/address is IRRELEVANT. That's the whole point of DHCP. If you change your router in the future, it does not matter - just reboot or power-cycle, and it will get a new address from the new router. The DHCP "reservation" is not really even necessary. When you set-up a reservation, all it does is insure that the ISY will always get the same address from the router. You need to tell the router the MAC address of the ISY. It looks like you already did that. With a consistent address, then you can - if you wish - set up port forwarding on your router to allow access from the outside world. It is also handy if you have other internal equipment that will access the ISY and you need to use an IP address to do that. (For example, that's how I access ISY from Roomie Remote app on iOS.) Aside: I set DHCP reservations for all of my permanent equipment. Only guests and e.g. temporary equipment under test is allocated from the DHCP pool. I stopped setting manual static IP addresses years ago. If you don't set the ISY to DHCP, you've just introduced unnecessary complication. Then, the static mask/address/gateway you set will need to match the reservation address (which really then only acts to create a "hole" in the addressing for the ISY). Glad you got it to work!

Enter CT, then answer the prompts: 2.1.1. Requesting for DHCP Assigned IP Address Ø When prompted for IP Address, enter the 0.0.0.0 Ø When prompted for NetMask, ignore Ø When prompted for Gateway, ignore Ø When prompted for DNS Server, ignore When prompted with Save Changes, enter Y. The system will reboot and attempts to get DHCP assigned TCP/IP information upon system start.

If by "reserved an IP address on the router" you mean that you have made a DHCP reservation, then you do not need to/should not manually configure the IP address on the ISY. Set it to use DHCP to obtain an address from your router. You should be able to temporarily regain access by the normal (IP) means if you simply configure a secondary subnet/IP address on a desktop computer. i.e. set-up a secondary interface with subnet 192.168.0.0/255, and address of, say, 192.168.1.2. Once in, change the configuration to obtain the address via DHCP, and reboot the ISY. When done, you can remove the secondary subnet/IP from your desktop computer. Or, figure out the command-line needed to re-configure to use DHCP and do so over the serial interface.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/0-10_V_lighting_control Per the attached chart, 50% of light source output, would need 75% of control voltage (7.5V) but the 2475DA2 at 50% is gonna give you 2.4V. But light source output != perceived brightness, so IDK LOL...

WFM (= "works for me") straight out of the box. Looks like you monkeyed with the options - min volts/max volts/on level volts. Out of the box, the 4 boxes ARE checked, but the on levels are all set to 10.59 volts, and Min Volts/Max Volts all set to 0.00. You get 5 "virtual devices". Kind of like a keypadlinc. So, I have x.x.x.x Ballast Dimmer, and then 4 (groupable) "virtual devices". x.x.x.x Ballast 3-4 Closed x.x.x.x Ballast 3-4 Open x.x.x.x Ballast 2-4 Closed x.x.x.x Ballast 2-4 Open These refer to the pins on the RJ-10 modular jack. They are for connecting to local control switches. I gather, then, if you were to short, say, pins 3-4, then the "group 1" min volts/max volts/on level/ramp rate will be applied. If pings 3-4 are OPEN, then the "group 2" min volts/max volts/on level/ramp rate will be applied. I guess this would happen only on a transition? Dunno what gets applied at power-on?! Anyway, with the default settings, works ALMOST as I would expect, with an interesting twist. Set the main device "on" it goes to 10V. Set the main device "off" it goes to 0V. Set the main device to 50% - it goes to 2.36V = NOT 5V. 75% gets your apx. 5V. Some kind of modified inverse-square? a guesstimate as to how to "average" fluorescent 0-10V ballast (what this thing was originally designed for) would respond to the control voltage, such that 2.36V would give you half-brightness? Anybody recognize the curve? (I've rounded these) 10%: 0.5V 25%: 0..9V 33%: 1.25V 50%: 2.4V 66%: 3.8V 75%: 4.9V 90%: 7.25V

Did you trying disabling the "groups"? (dialog from your first post.) I don't have a ballast for it, but I'll dig it out, put a meter on the 0-10V and play with it a bit.

Gateway? Do you have to run something on an external computer? I use SimpleControl on iPhone/iPad. It don't need no stinkin' gateway!

Probably not. It's too complex for the Network Module. First thing you will have to get past is Pairing, which requires a two-way exchange. There's a GitHub project that has reverse-engineered the control protocol: https://github.com/jeanregisser/mediaremotetv-protocol Somebody has figured out a Hillbilly solution to avoid pairing - capture a uuid and then use it to mock your already-paired iPhone. There would probably be issues if you try to use the iPhone remote at the same time. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/35355807/has-anyone-reversed-engineered-the-protocol-used-by-apples-ios-remote-app-for-c I think a job for an external computer, Raspberry Pi, etc. Or specific ISY support. Better to just use IR.

The product can natively dim by itself, assuming by "the product" you mean the actual ballast. In normal use, it would be connected to a special low-voltage 0-10V dimmer switch that provides a reference voltage from 0-10V. The Insteon2475DA2 is meant to replace the special low-voltage 0-10V dimmer switch. Think of a 2475DA2 as similar to a mini or micro-dimmer. But instead of dimming a 120V line, it provides a 0-10V reference voltage to use as you please. "Ballast dimmer" is a bit of misnomer. It is a programmable source of a 0-10V reference voltage, plus 2 inputs, and 2 relays. For all it cares, you could connect it to a huge analog meter, and mark positions on the meter with "Yes", "No", "Cloudy", and "Ask Ms. Clio". It has no buttons. It does have two inputs that can connect to two buttons or contacts of your own, if you choose to do so. We went through all this a while back on some LED posts. One can purchase LED strip ballasts that are controlled by a 0-10V control signal. They can dim to 1% or better. There is an odd limitation on local control via the switch inputs. You can only program the levels to 32 steps. But apparently if you put in a scene or use a program you can get 256 steps. (Oddly states 256 states "with software").

What controls the ballast device is in the post title - Insteon 2475DA2. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2475da2-en.pdf I have one, haven't deployed it yet. I would suggest disabling all that "Group" stuff. That is for controlling the ballast from switches connected to the 2 inputs. Do you have switches connected to the 2 inputs? That setup allows you to set the on/off level for the switch inputs on pins 3-4. If you have not connected anything to the switch inputs, the only way you can control it is by adding to a scene. Then you can control the scene from the ISY console, or add a controller to the scene.

This is getting ridiculous!

I dunno about the mini switch (even though I have one!) but the regular 6-button (now called "5 button"...) and 8-button switches can be field-converted between the two configurations. You need the trim kit and you need to do a special reset procedure.

Not so fast the the defenestration of the XML. XML compresses quite nicely. And the connection from mobile vendor backend to UDI backend should be compressed. As a developer, I prefer using JSON, as it is much easier to consume. But it's just as bloated as XML, and also as easily-compressed. XML is more open to compatibly-modifying data structures in the future (and with good design practices) without forcing the need to update existing software. JSON is more limited in the data structures it can represent, but works for most needs. I wouldn't recommend a pure binary connection, as it would be very difficult to deal with schema changes over time. There is a spec for "binary JSON". http://bsonspec.org/ I do this for a living - write mobile apps that talk to APIs. I've worked with a couple of the U.S. National Laboratories on apps that front-end services that analyze energy efficiency of buildings. some quite complex data. One lab choose XML, another choose JSON. The XML one took a mess of code. The JSON one was easy-peasy. The work of "Lab X" has been taken over by "Lab Y", FWIW. The JSON one. Currently, I write mobile software for dispatching service technicians. JSON APIs. Easy-peasy. Either way - XML, JSON, or something else... KISS. It is common to offer EITHER XML or JSON, as well. But of course makes the web service code more complicated. While *I* prefer JSON, UDI no doubt has their reasons for XML. They've adopted it extensively, it fits with the way they've been doing things. Either way, efficiency really isn't much of an issue, due to their compressibility, and has to be balanced with upgradability.

Exactly! Again unsure of Android, but at least on iOS, apps do NOT have to stay running to receive push alerts. The push alert opens the app, which need not show UI when it receives the alert. (App decides what to do.) Assume Android is similar. This also leave it up to each mobile software vendor to implement the actual mobile-platform push alerts. And, so, it is the mobile software vendor (not UDI) who will get in trouble if they abuse the intended use of the push service. (Yesterday's brew-ha-ha with the Dash documentation viewer - Apple revoked developer status of the developer alleging some sort of ratings abuse) makes me glad that I have no published apps in the app stores - at least not under my own or company name. I develop apps for internal use by multi-national corporations. I cannot afford to jeopardize my developer account by having something stupid happen like a perceived abuse of app store...)

BTW, while going off-topic. I have two nice Trine solenoid-operated latches that go in your door-frame that I have no use for. I've been meaning to put them up on eBay. PM me if interested in purchase or trade - would be interested in current-generation dual-band Insteon SL or KPLs if you've got extras! These WILL keep the door locked (closed). They are to be used with deadbolt-only. They can be changed to fail-open or fail-closed. They are each slightly different design.

Au contraire! One in the wild, in the hallway outside my condo. (See photos.) On either side of stairwell to isolate the stairwell. Used for it's intended purpose, for fire protection. They are used on fire doors that are left open for convenience. If the alarm is activated, or - quite by design - upon loss of power - the electromagnet will release and the door will close. Without this device, would need a closed door with a "this door to remain closed at all times" sign. I made a little video, but too big to upload, even in 480P. It takes quite a tug to close the door. Children might have difficulty. Looked at the specs on the product linked above, was surprised actually how little juice it takes, so you can't really object too much based on wasted power. (.05A at 24V = 1.25W). This seems smashing an ant with a sledgehammer for OP's problem. Would have to install a closer that will stand daily use (note the ones in my building to not get daily use!), purchase the electro-magnet, install an electrical box in a strange place, install big ugly magnet thingie on the door, make sure the electrical box is mounted firmly enough to withstand the big ugly magnet thingie banging against it (daily!) when the door is opened. ---- Speaking of fire protection, did you use a fire-rated door on that room you built inside your garage? Is the original door from the mudroom (original garage entry door) fire-rated? Per current code? Is the wall you built fire-rated? That's a garage. With a car. Loaded with gasoline. I'm a bit sensitive to the subject, as I've had fires next door twice in my life - both thankfully of fairly minor consequence. In a 28th floor high-rise in Detroit, there was a grease fire in the kitchen right next door. Nasty water came under the wall. And, more recently, in the place from which I recently moved, neighbor left a wet rag over a can lamp on floor with incandescent bulb. Thankfully, only smoldered. Fire department responded and I wasn't home, so fire department broke into my condo to insure nobody was inside. HOA irresponsibly did not call their on-call guard service, and I came home to an unsecured door and not knowing what had happened. First thought was break-in, but there was iPad on the kitchen counter... Did not smell any smoke. When I was a kid, as well, house two doors down burned to the ground. Current residence was declared "completely fire-proof" when it was built in 1927. Wisely, those chimneys xxxx staircases are today protected with fire doors, and the building sprinklered. 1985 code (when my previous residence was built) only required fire-rated doors on every other unit, and even then I think only because units are in pairs with facing doors. Developers almost always do the minimum needed by code, so every other door was a metal fire-rated door (neighbor had the metal door, I didn't). State Farm (neighbor's insurance) cheerfully paid for installation and finish (quite an expensive finish, I might add - bright red HollandLac, lovingly applied coat after coat after coat in landlord's contractor's garage...) of a new, 2-hour rated wood door. A 2-hour fire-rated wood door will run $400 minimum, and you won't find it in stock at Home Depot. (It was ordered from Lowe's - Home Depot didn't even know what we were talking about!) We worry a lot about home security here, but don't often see anything about fire protection.

Alternative solutions might involve: - A short piece of wire, or - A small magnet, or - A manual for the alarm system Short and to the point!

It seems to me your use case is very similar to the current email notifications. Would it be sufficient if the user could add a notification to a program? Others seem to be seeing this more broadly, and - I fear - not really within the intended usage of push notification services. Since an individual CANNOT originate push messages (that is, other than using a Apple/Google-provided or third party app) and in any case push messages have to be put in the push network(s) from an always-connected server, it would seem appropriate for the Portal to do the job. It would round-out the current email and text notifications. So, if a user has a portal subscription, they should be able to add something in email/notifications to create a recipient that is reached via push notification. Alas, I see a fly in the ointment. Push notifications - at least for Apple, Google may be different - only go to a specific app. For Apple at least, UDI can't send notifications that can be consumed by your app. (Not YOUR app, as it is Android...) They can only send notifications to their own app, which they don't have. It could be done in a round-about way, if UDI had an app on mobile devices. The UDI app would receive notifications, and then could notify any apps listening on a device using a Custom URL Scheme (iOS) or an Intent (Android). Again, this is all with Apple infrastructure, which is what I am familiar with. Maybe James can comment on the differences with Android push services.

Define "stopped using"? You mean permanently? Or just that the phone is turned off, etc? You are SUPPOSED to continue to send push messages even when your phone is off. It's practically the whole point of it. The backend service will queue them for when the user's device(s) is/are online. Still not clear to me just what events are intended to be sent. These push message services aren't meant for any kind of bulk transfer, and should be aggregated, even for the same user. And unless the data is very short, it should just be a notification that tells some app that it ought to go somewhere (outside of the messaging infrastructure) to fetch it. "you're up next to sing Karaoke" -> cool "the Karaoke singing queue changed" -> cool, go get the Karaoke singing queue from somewhere "the Karaoke singing queue changed, Bob is up next, then Fran, Sarah, Frank.... -> uncool '100 new songs were added to the Karaoke library" -> cool, go get them from somewhere. uncool - followed by 100 song titles. 10 notifications to same user in 1 second's time - uncool, aggregate! Understand these are generalizations, based on how Apple APNS works - and sure the intent of the Google push services are similar.

No, APNS does not have an Android lib. It is exclusively for sending push notifications to Apple devices. And you do not SEND messages to APNS from Apple devices - they must be sent from a server that makes a permanent connection to APNS. There is no "lib" required, as the support for receiving push notifications FROM APNS is built-in to every Apple OS. Only mentioned it because I'd imagine Google has similar rules, for similar reasons.

I dunno about Google, but Apple APNS REQUIRES that a provider MUST make a connection to their service from a single server. They want the messages aggregated on a single connection. There is simply no provision for individuals to send APNS messages. (Other than through Apple or third-party apps, and all will employ a back-end service that connects to APNS.) Yes, an individual can fiddle it, if they get a developer agreement and set-up a server to talk to APNS. https://developer.apple.com/library/content/documentation/NetworkingInternet/Conceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/Chapters/ApplePushService.html#//apple_ref/doc/uid/TP40008194-CH100-SW9/ Thus, it would be inappropriate to the ISY to send APNS messages, and wouldn't be permitted by Apple. But if UDI would like to add APNS capability to the Portal, that is something that could be done.

A suggesting that UDI host button designs has come up here several times. Might I suggest a GitHub project or projects instead? It's not just for open-source software! Enlightened people use GitHub for any sort of open-source projects - electronic hardware designs, mechanical designs (3D print), novels, whatever... As far as somebody printing commercially with a licensed icon set - read the licenses carefully, and I think you will find many that are suitable. You might not find that the author anticipated such a novel use, and so in that case you can contact the author and see if something can be worked out. Keep in mind that in most cases, the author has anticipated that users will deploy the icons on websites or in apps or on printed pages used by hundreds, thousands, millions, billions of people. It's unlikely they will want to extract large license fees for printing their icons on buttons. They make their money selling the icon sets to thousands of software developers - 10 bucks, 10 bucks, 10 bucks, 10 bucks, 10 bucks! I use these licensed icon and font sets (icon fonts) extensively in my work of developing mobile apps. And has been pointed out, you can find plenty of free ones anyway. Now, try to license a letter font from a commercial font foundry for a novel use (or, really, ANYTHING other than use for printing flyers or whatnot or for use on a website) at a reasonable price. THAT is not going to happen! I have tried. I tried to license the font used by Bloomberg Businessweek. (It's not their own bespoken font) The foundry wants close to $1000 PER TYPEFACE to use in an app. https://fontsinuse.com/uses/10/bloomberg-businessweek I wound up using Input Sans instead of Neue Haas Grotesk. I was going for "highly readable", which Neue Hass Grotesk is, but Input Sans is even more readable, though a completely different look. Input is meant as a "programmer's font", but as it comes in a proportional version (as well as fixed-width, which is more suitable for use in an editor used for coding) there are many other uses for it! (I use it in an unpublished app for browsing Karaoke songs, where you will have drunk people trying to read a screen in the dark...) There is my daily peave, and at the same time a suggestion for a great font to use on engraved keys! http://input.fontbureau.com/ http://input.fontbureau.com/info/ For key tops, you will want to use it in a fairly heavy weight.

It recurred. Open Failed for [/CONF/46/PRP] I think this is a bug, but hopefully a benign one. I sometimes accidentally right mouse click. I think it must set some flag in another file saying "there are notes for this node". But I haven't made/saved any notes. So, it goes to open the file, and there is no file. Or is it just trying to open the file when I right-click, and because I have not previously saved notes, it gets the error message. Either way, I'd call it a bug to log it - or at least log it with this wording.