jtara92101

Looking forward to some Google Home support similar to current Alexa support. I've set up a few actions using IFTTT, but it is painful. Sure would be nice if IFTTT had a duplicate/clone option. How do they miss something this obvious? So, I have just set up some basic lights on/off for a couple of areas. I'm not planning on relying on voice instead of pushing switches. But handy in some cases if I am not near the switch. I'm planning on installing SimpleHub, (always-on MacOS app for SimpleControl AV remote) so that I can do some simple actions like "watch cable TV" or "watch Apple TV" and send commands to SimpleHub to start an AV activity and dim the lights. It's handy because it takes several steps to open SimpleHome on my iPad and then select an activity.

I concur with others. Get a purpose-made alert product. And, then, convince her to start carrying a smartphone. Or at least SOME sort of cell phone. I realize it will be like pulling teeth. Maybe one of the phones specifically designed for seniors, which I think will have an emergency alert button on it in any case. She will have to get over any stigma associated with carrying such a phone! I had a neighbor with dementia (realize not the same thing!) and her son and I tried and tried to get her to carry a phone. "Who would I call"? She has a home phone which suits her needs - she screens carefully and does check caller ID as - sadly - most of the calls she receives are from some sort of scam artist or another. So she only answers if it is her son, a neighbor, friend, etc. (It is a pain if somebody has to do some service on her home, etc...) I gave her my best shot, but I'm afraid it failed. She is a spunky 86-year-old, and once got into a physical altercation with her housekeeper when she came home and found her in the house, not remembering that she was there to meet the plumber! She also walks around the neighborhood sporting a Louis Vuitton handbag. I told her then when somebody tries to steal her Louis, that she would need to have a phone so that she can call the ambulance to take away the culprit after she bops him in the head with her purse! (Fortunately, she does not wander or lose her directions. She just forgets anything recent - and that can result in AWKWARD conversations!) You are going to have to top that to convince her! Just tell her that you want to make sure she is OK, and want to be able to reach her (and vice-versa) where ever she is. If she gets a smartphone, then (with her permission) you can enable GPS "friends" tracking so that you can always know where she is.

Jimbo, Conversational Actions don't require any special permission. It's Direct Actions that have a sign-up for some future notification. Direct Actions don't seem to be "all that" in any case. They allow Google to handle all of the "conversation" for specific, very limited, problem domains (they call them "verticals".) That is, the developer doesn't have to list trigger phrases and responses and manage the conversation. The available actions seem limited. Can't seem to find it again, but I did come across a list of the available actions for Home Automation. Basically, you can turn something on or off, or increase or decrease a level. That's it. But it (presumably) make it easier to implement, as the developer doesn't have to program the conversation syntax. Just handle simple commands to "turn on", "turn off".

If you have the "Pro" version, you can defer device updates while you make your changes. Then, re-enable updates and walk away while they take place. File > Automatic Writes to Devices toggles it. The icon is green when enabled, gray when not. Really, making updates to any more than a very small system is very inconvenient otherwise, as you have to wait for every change to take effect before going on to the next. IMO, maybe it is time for this to no longer be a "PRO" feature. I think at one time it was thought this was mainly useful to installers. I think it gives the product a significant black eye from the viewpoint of users. Why make it so difficult to set up a system? "To encourage an upgrade to PRO" is a bad answer. This feature should be opened-up for all versions of the product.

Since I acquired a Google Home Assistant (second banana to Alexa, but it was free...) I'm thinking of adding SimpleControl Simple Hub. In the past, I didn't see any compelling need for this. IFTTT can talk to SimpleHub, and Google Home Assistant can talk to IFTTT... Of course, then, ISY can also talk to SimpleHub using rEST, and it would be more convenient than dealing more directly with IR hardware or IP-controlled AV products. It's similar in concept to Harmony Hub. That is, it's an always-on hub on your local network that works in concert with SimpleControl remotes running on your iOS devices. I like that it is NOT a cloud service. It comes in multiple forms: they offer a (overpriced, IMO, $199) hardware device. Or you can run it on an always-on Mac. Or an Apple TV. (But, unfortunately, the Apple TV has to keep the app open, so only viable, say, to repurpose an older-generation Apple TV...) The Mac option appeals to me, as I have an always-on Mac Mini. It's $49. So, why use SimpleHub, rather than just using rEST network requests directly from ISY? Because controlling AV equipment directly from ISY is painful at best, and impossible at worst. Sure, you can send IR control strings to a Global Cache' or other networked IR transmitter. And you can control SOME IP-connected AV equipment with simple rEST requests. But others, not so much, as they have bi-directional protocols and might involve authentication means that aren't supported by ISY. (Apple TV is a good example.) I've done some SIMPLE things with rEST from ISY, such as A/B speaker switching. With Simple Hub, you send "higher level" rEST requests, that deal with the activities (e.g. "cable", "apple TV", "bluray") you have defined, and mnemonic commands (rather than IR strings) to devices. That is e.g. "volume up" rather than some hex IR string. (OK, looks like not QUITE so simple, as you might need to first look-up a UUID associated with e.g. an activity.) If you use SimpleControl, you've already defined your activities, and are probably somewhat familiar with the device commands. (Assuming you've done some fiddling with custom buttons.) So, using Simple Hub then I think is a no-brainer, as it lets you leverage the setup you've already done, instead of having to go knee-deep in IR commands, and adding IR emitters to equipment that doesn't otherwise need it. (Since SimpleControl can control almost all popular AV equipment that is controlled by IP or serial.)

Assume you mean that your ISP assigned a new address to your router? In most cases, this has nothing to do with your ISY's address on your local network. Normally, you would have your router in NAT mode, and you would need to set up a port mapping from your router to the ISY. But maybe your ISP provides a block of IP public IP addresses (rare, today...) and you assigned your ISY to one IP in the block? (No NAT.) You didn't say whether you use the UDI portal. If so, you do not need a static address for your ISY. As far as the IP address of your router - most ISPs do not provide a static address, and the address may change from time to time. You can use a dynamic DNS service to assign your moving-target IP to an unchanging domain name. Most/many routers now support a number of dynamic DNS services directly. When the router's public address changes, the router will notify the dynamic DNS service of the change. If you fill in the blanks, we can probably help you figure out what went wrong. IMO, there is no good reason to assign static IP addresses directly on devices these days. If you need an unchanging address (on your local LAN), make a DNS reservation instead. It's more fool-proof.

That was then, this is now... "Buy" button for the starter dev kit gets a "404 not found". Maybe they can be found used on eBay. (I haven't tried contacting the company yet.) You can buy 10 of the 100 series for $239.90. Not a bad price - if you need 10! Actually, I had been looking at the price for the larger, 200 series, which seemed a bit high vs others I've come across. (10/$379.90). I don't know what the difference is, other than size. The 100 series is more attractive for home use. If you have some USB outlets, the 100 series would plug into one side unobtrusively. The 200 series would be a wart sticking out of the wall almost certain to get broken in half, especially if there are children in the household! I'd guess the 200 series antenna might be more effective.

It was more advice for users that want to install beacons for multiple uses, with or without ISY, for CEC or other purposes. At this point, it would seem prudent to get ones that cover as many standards as possible, until it becomes clear if there is "a winner". Plus, the Bleustation products are difficult to source in small quantity. They seem to be more interested in retail chains with 100s of stores than they are in homeowners. I am naively assuming that an iBeacon is an iBeacon is an iBeacon - at least for presence - and any one should work. That said, I realize you probably have to pick a specific piece of "supported" hardware for your CEC project. But if you pick one that is multi-protocol, it would be more consumer-friendly, as it would provide wider compatibility. And, there are almost certainly differences if there's any attempt to do ranging.

Thanks, Javi, I will explore the front aux connector. But I'd imagine it just has a mechanical switch that is activated when the plug is pressed in. I found out how to make a drink. You have to ask Tender. Still getting used to the idea of asking different services. For food recipes, though you don't ask through a service. I actually like that each service has a different voice, unlike Alexa. I don't like that they (at least Tender) will bug you until you dismiss them. Tender wanted to offer more cocktail recipes. (I used "thank you, Tender, goodbye!" There is a history list of all interactions and you can play back your voice. I guess this is in the interest of full transparency so that you know just what the device has recorded. I'd like to think that once you erase the list, it is truly erased. OMG I asked "Hey, Google, can I change your trigger word?" It gave me instructions for changing ALEXAs trigger word on Echo! Google needs to get themselves moved higher in the search results!

What if you are playing a record on your quad system at the time? And now you want to turn on the lights in the kitchen, because you want to make Jiffy Pop? So, you say "OK, Google! Turn on the kitchen lights! And, oh, what is the weather going to be like tomorrow?" Google answers, through your preamp (or some thingie in front of it) and you hear the weather recited on you quad system, and your Steely Dan record is automatically muted or attenuated for the duration of the answer. Once you hear the weather, the record is un-muted, and you return to your Big Black Cow. That - or the functional equivalent - is what i mean by "cut-through". A specific source (a home assistant appliance, in this case) can "cut through" whatever is now playing, without having to actually switch sources. Like an integrated navigation system in a car would override any other audio source for the duration of an announcement. So... it would be handy if home AV receivers would have an audio input (or inputs) that can "cut through" in the manner described above, as it would be very handy for "home assistant" type devices.

So, my neighbor gave me a Google Home device. His dad gave it to him for Christmas, but he's too paranoid to hook it up. Just unboxed and set-up, so no real experience yet. I have to say, am impressed with a few things: 1. It's actually un-tacky and even attractive, and fairly unobtrusive. 2. Amazing sound quality for a little box. Impressive bass and impressive stereo separation. 3. The voice mic is plenty sensitive and voice recognition seems very accurate. (Better than Siri on iOS, which drives me batty!) I have the device in my living room, and it can "hear" me "loud and clear" from my adjoining office. One thing that is immediately obvious, though - and this goes for all such devices - I would like to have the sound be routed to my home AV receiver. Only problem is, home AV receivers are going to have to catch-up now, though. While I could use a ChromeCast Audio device to connect, there is a feature lacking (I think - have to dig through my thick Denon manual...). They need to start adding a "cut-through" input that will override regardless of current source. Sure, I could perhaps set something up to switch sources back and forth, but that's just too clunky and not fast enough. (Maybe newer receivers have this? I have a several-years-old AVR3311). Of course, anything (in the future, I suppose) that will have ChromeCast Audio built-in would I presume have a cut-through feature. This is going to be "interesting", as I am an iOS/macOS household otherwise. There are some deficiencies. It doesn't know how to make an Old Fashioned. Fortunately, I have that committed to memory. It sure as heck isn't going to know how to make an Aviation. (It doesn't.) It does, however know how to make Osso Buco, and helpfully drops the written recipe in the Google Home app. It seems to have an anti-alcohol bias, which is something I would more expect of iOS.

It might make sense to use a beacon that supports the multiple competing standards: - iBeacon (Apple) - Eddystone (Google) - AltBeacon (Radius Networks) And in any case, it would make sense to support multiple standards, if at all practical. AltBeacon is fully open-source with no licensing needed to build hardware or deploy software that uses the standard. Whether it gains any traction is another matter. The Radius Networks hardware products support all 3, and many products support both iBeacon and Eddystone. Radius does have a compact USB dongle like the BleuStation 100 (as well as other form factors), at similar (I think a bit high) pricing. But you can buy them in onesies without a hassle. A quick search of Amazon finds a number of iBeacon/Eddystone USB dongles at lower prices. I'd imagine a search of Alibaba would find them even more significantly less expensive, at varying levels of quality.

The Bleustation's seem pricey, and currently only available in 10-packs? Anyone know what the different is between series 100 and 200, other than size? Their website isn't very helpful. OK, I found a Starter Kit with 3 beacons. No pricing, though. I gather they are going for the retail market. Doesn't seem to me a good match for home automation, at least with their current marketing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_storm_of_1859 Luckily, we haven't had anything to match the Carrington Event since. (Well, we have, but fortunately aimed away from Earth). I think it would be devastating to modern-day electronics.

"control" is a transient EVENT, not a STATE. "control" has no "memory". Your second program will turn the light on when the keypad is operated to unlock, so long as it is between sunset and sunrise (next day). If I understand you correctly, you want the light to come on from sunset to sunrise, provided that the gate was last opened by the keypad. You will have to maintain some variable. Set it true when the door is switched unlocked by keypad. Set it false, when ??? (What did you have in mind?)

Do you have an RF remote? If so, is it one of the old Multi-Elmac remotes (or compatible?) And, if so, are you in an area with military installations? It's been a while since I've seen reports on the local news (San Diego) about "garage doors opening spontaneously all over town". I suppose because newer remotes are of a type that's not susceptible to the (alleged) interference that causes them to open spontaneously. I find the theory a stretch, as you'd need to have pulses that just happen to correspond to your code, and with the right timing. But it's on the record. http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/sdut-remotes-for-garage-doors-car-locks-on-the-fritz-2010apr03-story.html http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/sdut-navy-radio-might-be-crippling-conn-garage-doors-2012jul23-story.html http://www.sddt.com/News/article.cfm?SourceCode=200412061a#.WJKU4UUrK-Y USUALLY it has been limited to non-operating remotes. But there also have been reports over the years of spontaneous openings.

I suppose the reason you haven't seen this discussed much that that few of us have any interest in this type of configuration. Most would put KPL or SL in all of the switch boxes, and then either run the light off of one KPL or SL, or else use the micro module, and create a "virtual" 3-way circuit. I have considered using micro dimmers in my bathroom, because it would enable me to use a "vintage"-style pushbutton switch by using the seldom-used sense input. So far, I have only deployed one micro-dimmer, in a closet. I replaced a glass-globe light with pull cord with a flat LED light. Since there were only hot and neutral in the box (and no protective ground!) I used a micro-dimmer, and put a battery-powered micro-switch on the wall outside of the closet.

So, install a microswitch behind the fridge. When the fridge tips back, it will close the switch, sending a signal that she has parked! OK, seriously - gated parking garages in condos, commercial buildings, etc. usually/always (code, safety, stuff like that...) have a coil of wire buried in the concrete that will detect a car passing over it, and open the door to allow a vehicle to exit. (In my building, we keep a weight plate near each door to place over the coil for the garbage ma.... er, waste removal technician, for moves, etc.) Maybe you don't want to hack away at your concrete. But I'd imagine you can do something with a coil under some sort of mat, etc. In lieu of a commercial system, there is this: http://hackaday.com/2014/04/04/building-an-inductive-loop-vehicle-detector/ Note the above (in comments sections) also discusses surplus detectors that can be picked up very cheaply. It won't solve the refrigerator problem, but at least it will provide a reliable presence detection. Actually, maybe it could solve the refrigerator problem. Would need two inductive loops. Would need some experimentation with placement of the forward loop, and might be difficult to make it work reliability with multiple vehicles. (Different sized hunks of metal over the loop...) You could flash a light, sound a buzzer, etc. just like in the automatic car wash. Another approach - there are loads of non-contact gadgets available that will solve the refrigerator problem - high-tech (or low-tech) alternatives to the tennis ball on the string. Just find one that has a relay output. On the other-other hand, I don't know that it's a good idea to ENCOURAGE pulling up all the way until the alarm sounds. Unless you have the OPPOSITE problem (door closing on trunk.) So perhaps best to separate the concerns of presence and position. For a complete solution, you could use 3 sensors, of whatever type (inductive, optical, whatever).

That's not how ISY programs work. They do not "execute over and over". They are asynchronous. Programs only run when the state of any of the variables that the IF examines change. (Or when they are manually run or triggered by another program.) They are perfectly efficient for monitoring state changes.

It will act like any other IF invocation - it will evaluate the condition, and run either the THEN or ELSE depending on the result. But I would suggest you don't activate a scene OR run a program. Just set a variable. Then you can write a program or programs that make use of the variable.

If you are opening a door, I'd think you have the OPPOSITE problem. You WANT a limited distance. I'd think you wouldn't want to open the garage door while blocks away. Does your garage door take an extraordinary amount of time to open?

An iPhone 4S (as well as certain iPad/iPad Mini models and iPod Touch 5G or later) or later can be used as an iBeacon. Really only meant as a convenience for developer testing. https://blog.passkit.com/configure-iphone-ibeacon-transmitter/ There are a few App Store apps available to do this, as well as sample code if you want to build yourself. Here's one. I haven't vetted it. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/locate-beacon/id738709014?mt=8 https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ezbeacon/id842580782?mt=8

Put an iBeacon in the car? Ideally, wired-in in some manner so that it transmits when parked, and not when driving. (No good reason, except it seems silly to drive around bleeping "i'm here" to the world. But then again, that goes when at work, the mall parking lot, etc. etc. etc.) Or some kind of long-range RFID tag? Random web page I found: http://www.phaseivengr.com/wireless-technologies/wireless-technologies-overview/about-wireless-rfid-sensors/about-ultra-long-range-uhf-rfid-sensors/ Apparently "ultra long range" is 20+ feet, is that good enough? Been a LONG time since I've messed with this stuff. We used "long range" passive RFID when I worked at the (now closed) San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station. "long range" back then meaning a couple of feet, so that workers could just walk through a portal without having to scan a card, use a fob, etc. (FWIW was not for access control but as one aspect of exposure monitoring - they still had to show a bade to a guard!) I think there were portals in various places within the Red Zone to monitor when workers entered/left certain areas so that their time in the area could be tracked.

arp-scan can take an IP address, a subnet range, or a domain name. I assume the above refers to devices with local domain names phone and phone2.

Andy, as I understand it, rEST isn't limited to direct access to the ISY - it is available through the portal. But now I see the purpose of the IFTTT inbound API - it allows use of a token rather than user ID/password. And the token has limited scope to performing one action only. User ID/password would be protected inside of SSL (though there is a small potential security issue with this) but I wouldn't want to provide user ID/password to a third-party service. It might be OK in a trusted app, but I see the "IFTTT".