jtara92101

As Andy has pointed-out, the IFTTT section isn't necessarily just for IFTTT. The "inbound" part of it can be (mis)used by ANY service app or service. I'm a bit confused, though, why this is thought necessary for Locative integration. Why not just use the rEST API?

You certainly can set-up a KPL to trigger different programs from each button to provide different lengths time. I prefer a more "automatic" approach that I have used in the past. (I moved and no longer have bathroom fans - one has a window, the other has an always-on vent with central fan several floors up.) My previous system was much praised by my interior designer. She commented that she loved the idea that the fan just turned on with the lights, as it avoids the embarrassment that using the fan implies a certain usage mode of the room... So, my setup was: - fan on when any light in bathroom goes on - fan off when all bathroom lights are off, after a timeout - there were "shower hours", during which the fan use was extended - the bathroom fans were also part of a "whole house random ventilation schedule" (e.g. fans and HVAC blower) - as the fan was on a SL relay, you could still manually turn the fan off - I later added a moisture sensor on an IoLinc, (just screw setpoint on sensor) so if there was excess moisture, the fan would continue to run in any case (placement is tricky, my initial placement underneath a "floating" vanity was unsuccessful.) - the hope was people would just go for the big top button on the KPL, which set a scene with vanity, shower, and track lights at "dramatic" levels. Other buttons were for shower, shave (or you could call it "makeup"), cleaning levels. You might want to do other variations on this, for example set fan timer based on length of occupancy. Really, the fan should come on with any occupancy of the room. The primary purpose is to remove excess moisture from this small room, and one would expect at least the sink faucet to be used upon any occupancy. If you search the forum, you will find descriptions (and programs) for MANY elaborate bathroom timer schemes. It seems to be a favorite of tinkerers!

From direct observation, it is my understanding that the IFTTT Maker Channel is NOT real-time. Am I wrong about that? Has it changed? If Maker Channel is not real time, it would matter not if RemoteLync IFTTT channel is real-time or not. Maker Channel delay is ONE of the reasons I abandoned using Nest's excellent home/away detection to set a variable on my ISY. (The other reason is that Nest doesn't do home/away detection if the thermostat is set OFF.) Maybe it is just because Maker Channel recipe for Nest has to poll Nest service, whereas RemoteLync notifies IFTTT directly?

Browser makers are progressively restricting the use of Java within the browser. They've done this because running Java applets found on random websites is just plain unsafe. They've progressed from "opt-out" to "opt-in" to "nuh-uh". Chrome, for example, is at "nuh-uh": https://java.com/en/download/faq/chrome.xml Java isn't and never was a "browser" technology. Java applets run on your desktop system, outside of your browser. But in the early days, browser makers made it easy for Java plugins to automatically download applets when you visit a web page and then display the output within the browser window, using a plugin. Those days are gone for some browsers, and on the way out for others.

But your home might be a pile of cinders by the time IFTTT notifies the ISY, as IFTTT only runs triggers every 15 minutes, and so the average response time is 7 1/2 minutes. Bumbershoot's solution will work if you have HARD-WIRED alarms that use a traveller wire. These use two wires to power the unit with AC (also have battery backup) and a third, "traveller" wire that is used to signal the other alarms to sound if one goes off. First Alerts that support RF signaling are available in both wired and battery-only configurations. So, Bumbershoot replaced ONE of his Kidde's with First Alert. I assume that with that setup, you will not get a correct indication of the location of an alarm. e.g. if you put the ONE First Alert in the kitchen, an alarm anywhere is going to indicate "kitchen". The First Alerts that support smoke bridge do not use your "house wiring" to connect to the smoke bridge. It is RF, and it is proprietary. And I wouldn't want to "hack" it in any case, or any safety system. (on edge of seat awaiting Teken's response...)

Spec sheet on the relays: http://rabbitmax.com/files/SONGLE-SRD-05VDC-SL-C.pdf Mechanical relays will always be rated "each". It is just opening and closing a mechanical contact. Any voltage UP TO 120V. (Actually, says 250AC/110DC) Note that the ampere rating is derated at lower voltages. 7A@28V. No specs are provided below 28V. (The Form C versions get derated, and that is the version on this board. Form-C is break-before-make.)

Some hope: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/33409530/amazon-echo-push-a-message-to-the-device Only a rumor... I leave it as an exercise to the reader to find the denials of the rumor. http://www.digitaltrends.com/home/amazon-alexa-push-notifications-fall-voice-activated/ Live demo of a work-around: And forum thread explaining it: https://forums.developer.amazon.com/questions/40799/workaround-for-push-notifications.html

Version also matters for the sanity of future forum readers. Posts and responses are not only to answer your question or solve your problem, but to benefit future readers. Future readers should not be expected to check the date of a post that references the "latest" firmware to see what version that refers to!

Does your state have a strong construction-defect law? Since your builder made this mistake, he may have made others. The fact that an inspector passed it probably does not get the builder off the hook. If you have any concerns, it might be worth-while to have an electrician inspect and see if any other issues turn up. A discussion about California law: http://www.lhfconstructlaw.com/Articles/Relying-On-A-Building-Inspector-s-Approval-Of-The-Work-Does-Not-Shield-The-Contractor-From-Liability.shtml Now, since you've been fiddling with the wiring, maybe just let sleeping dogs lie. But I would want to satisfy myself that things are right.

IANAE (I Am Not an Electrician) BUT... It's just common sense that in order to abandon the wire, you need to cut it and stuff it back into the wall. That wire has no business being inside the box, capped or not. I hope at least it is low-voltage wiring, and not the same wiring that was used to wire your house, lest some future electrician or homeowner accidentally activate it. For a a couple bucks more, the builder could have done the job right. (Gang a separate box, or install a box with internal barrier.)

Just use the admin console standalone. I don't consider it safe to enable Java in web browsers, and neither do most of the browser makers. Yes, you can limit it to specific sites. If you remember to do that.

So, "restore device" restores both the links to other devices AND the link to the PLM, right? Michael, can we please get the Wiki and the on-screen instructions corrected? It is just plain wrong. I'd guess you can restore ONE RF device by putting it in linking mode, providing that it doesn't time-out by the time the ISY gets a Round Tuit.

I've been swapping some devices (once again removing the "toxic" versions of KPL and SL that I had foolishly convinced myself were perfectly good...) and had some suspicion that the PLM links were corrupted or still linked to old devices, etc. Attempted to follow the procedure the restoring the PLM, but ran into a Catch-22 with RF-only devices. (Currently, only using two Mini Remotes, though I have others to add later.) The problem is, the instructions are apparently just plain wrong, as is the Wiki. It asks you to put ALL RF-only devices in programming mode. The problem is, that's not something that can be done. As soon as you put a second RF-only device in programming mode, it cancels programming mode for both devices. (They both stop blinking). An older post suggests using the Pro version (which I have) disable automatic writes to RF-only devices so that they will be queued, and turn turn on automatic writes (or click and write updates to individual devices). Problem with that is that it DOES NOT WORK. I do use this feature all the time, and does work for other operations (such as controllers and responders.) But it does not seem to work for PLM linking. There is a lot of activity (and confirmed in the event viewer) and then at the end it says that updating the PLM failed, because some devices could not be updated. (I will edit this later to give exact wording...) And there are NO 1010101s showing. So, there is nothing for me to update. What is the proper way to do this? And, please, once it is figured-out, can we please get the Wiki and the on-screen instructions corrected? Note that I am NOT replacing the PLM. Just want to make sure the links are refreshed. If necessary, I can treat it as a replacement, though. But it's my understanding that the first thing done when you restore modem is that it resets it. I did do a manual reset the last time I tried, though. (But I did not "remove modem". Here's the previous thread on the topic, which did not really give me a workable solution, as it suggests deferring write to the RF-only devices, which does not seem to happen for this operation. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15402-restoring-plm-with-multiple-battery-powered-devices/

FWIW.... Egads! Did the 4-gang not have a barrier in it? You aren't supposed to mix low-voltage and line-voltage in the same box! But there are special boxes that have an internal barrier, or add-on boxes that link to a main box to create a separate compartment for low-voltage. If you did NOT have a barrier, at least you have now corrected a code violation.

I had to look up what UDAjax is! For those unfamiliar with the term, it's the default web interface for the ISY. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Initial_Browser_Screen Apparently, it's based on a third-party project, ISYAjax. It looks like the author maintained it for a while, and then perhaps lost interest. If somebody knows a newer source, please post a link: https://sites.google.com/site/isyajax/ It seems out-of-date, but the ISYAjax site should give you some insight on customization. Since it is just a collection of web pages that uses Ajax to fill-in information from your ISY, you should be able to copy the pages and scripts to web pages in the Network Module - or even on some other device or computer (with a bit of modification) - and then customize-away. You'd have to write a bit of Javascript to interpret the 0 a 255 values as OPEN and CLOSED for display. Have to assume others have done this. Did you search the forum?

You get a 1 year or 2 year extension for free if you previously purchased the Network Module (which is now included as part of a Portal subscription) some time after 1-Oct-2014. The determination of 1 or 2 year depends on when you purchased your Network Module. If you purchased your Network Module after 4-Feb-2016, you can get a refund for your Network Module subscription. See the details here: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#ISY_Portal.2FAmazon_Echo.2FIFTTT Normal portal subscription is $49 for 2 years.

Oh, they have a good deal on 6-packs of the filament bulbs. If this is for a chandelier, rather than a Festivus Pole, they might do the trick! (Ceiling fan - close enough!) https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Filament-Dimmable-Candelabra-White/dp/B01N63GMKF/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1482132835&sr=8-53&keywords=kakanuo

Had to look-up what C7 is. A little late to the party, aren't you Gary? Or maybe it's all good if you're going to keep them up till July. More importantly, anybody have a good source for LED bubble lamps? OK, serious answer: the company that makes the LEDs I got for my microwave oven hood lamp puts the same LEDs in a number of different small-format bases and bulb shapes. Perhaps you will find what you want from them. My microwave oven bulbs are "intermediate base" (I think a bit larger than candelabra) and not the right shape for your Festivus Pole. But maybe they have what you want. I can't vouch for dimmability other than "they dim", since the microwave only has a high/low setting. It works with the high/low setting, and also does not have the flaw that some have where they light even when the lamp is switched off. (I guess microwaves somehow don't completely shut-off current to the bulbs, but it's not enough to make incandescents glow.) I just checked, and didn't find one, alas. They do have bulbs in E12 base (or candelabra, the base used for C7, right?) but the only ones with C7 shape are fancy (and expensive) filament types. The brand is Kakanuo. I'm quite pleased with them. I got them from Amazon. Perhaps there is a greater variety elsewhere. This is the lowest cost of the decorative C7 shape: https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Filament-Dimmable-Candelabra-White/dp/B01MRKREK4/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1482131653&sr=8-18&keywords=kakanuo+e12 And just in case somebody else wants to LED a microwave: https://www.amazon.com/Kakanuo-Microwave-Dimmable-72X3014SMD-AC110-130V/dp/B01HV9HZVE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482131932&sr=8-4&keywords=kakanuo+microwave+bulb Finally, I was actually initially thinking of another source that packages the same LEDs in various small forms. But haven't tried yet. Still waiting for the LED bulbs I ordered from China for my old Lightolier wall-washers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191586144714?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=490662529953&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm skeptical of 9W in that tiny package, but crossing my fingers! Use the drop-downs on the eBay page above for different bases. The same company makes smaller wattages and form factors as well, so maybe they have what you are looking for. There are multiple sellers on eBay selling the same bulbs - they are all direct-ship from China though. But by the time you would get them, Festivus would be over.

Nest. Set and forget. Takes care of home/away better than anything else, if you use the Nest App. And I don't really feel much compulsion to "integrate" with ISY. I do plan on using ISY to set the Nest to Eco when a window is open, once I paint the *&^%! windows and install the Insteon open/close switches. I used to have the Venstar with the dongle. What a pain! Good riddance!

Honestly, a Wiki sounds more appropriate for this than the forums. And UDI already does have a Wiki! (I'm afraid it seems down right now, 500 server error...) While forums contain valuable information, they are more of the moment and dealing with specific individual problems and discussion of ideas than a living and always-current and unambiguous reference. I don't remember if the UDI Wiki is open to outside editing, or just edited internally. (And can't check right now since it is down!) Pretty sure, in fact, though, that the Wiki already has an integration section. Perhaps you could see if UDI is amenable to some outside help in gleening information on integration from the forums and incorporating them into the Wiki.

I haven't found Locative to be very useful. It wigs in and nearly every single day. (e.g. I am home, it decides i am not.) In any case... you need to either: - subscribe to the ISY portal - set up your router to do port-forwarding to your ISY. There are SEVERAL steps needed to do this, and has been adequately (and voluminously) covered in older posts - Set up a VPN between your phone and your home network You should NOT expose HTTP from your ISY to the Internet. It is NOT secure. Only use HTTPS or a VPN.

Since we are dealing with electrical circuits with potentially lethal consequences, we shouldn't guess at what was meant. Better we make sure it is absolutely clear, and perhaps the solution is delayed.

I don't know just what you mean when you say "use the dimmer switch to apply a level, then have the dimmer switch, keypad, and on/off switch apply this level the next time the light is on. If you mean that literally, the answer is no. When you adjust the brightness at a controller, that brightness is not "sticky". It just modifies the current level of the scene. If you want to be able to change the scene brightness from a controller, and have it be sticky, you would have to use a program. And decide what kind of tapping gymnastics you want to put the user through to do this.

What do you mean by "in the circuit"? You should not series-wire dimmer switches! If you have existing 3 or 4-way wiring, you should NOT make any use of the travelers. One Insteon dimmer should be connected to the load. The other controllers should only connect to hot and neutral - cap the load. It is most CONVENIENT to set-up your scene using ISY. Much more convenient than bouncing around the house tapping buttons! Set the on-level for each device within the scene. You then either have to duplicate the same settings within each controller, or - the easy way - check the "copy scene attributes" checkbox on the controller. You can increase or decrease the brightness of the scene from any of it's controllers.

1. You should ALWAYS shut off the breaker when doing ANY work on a circuit. You should never rely on only the switch. 2. You might also use a MicroDimmer module, if the load is less than 100W and you have trouble fitting the ILL. Since it is an LED, the load is almost certainly < 100W. 3. Consider a Mini Remote Wireless Switch as a companion. You can put it anywhere, as it is battery powered. You need to charge it via USB maybe twice a year. I use this and a MicroDimmer to control a closet light that was previously a globe with a pull chain. http://www.insteon.com/wireless-switch