jtara92101

The final word on using Nest to determine home/away: it's impractical. Too bad, since Nest does a great job of home/away without false triggers. Assume it's Google "AI" technology, and they have LOTS of data to train on! - IFTTT delay makes it impractical for turning lights on/inefficient for turning them off. At least heat/AC would be OK, since Nest deals with that directly. - Nest doesn't do home/away if Nest is "Off". I turn Off if the windows are open (duh!) and in fact just got Insteon window open/close sensors for just that purpose! e.g. if any window is open, set Nest to Off. Locative gives false signals if I am around the neighborhood, especially on-foot. I suppose I should get an iBeacon, as I think it will use it. But should be able to look for my WiFi? Other suggestions for home/away apps for iPhone? Locative is open-source, I guess I could fix it! (I'm an app developer...)

Now I fell bad about not urging caution... I do have quite a bit of electronics background (got my ham license in high school, and actually 8 semesters of electrnics in high school... but went into Computer Science in college) so I knew what I was looking for. I didn't think it would work myself, but decided to try it anyway... I'd assumed it was a regulated power supply, and would simply maintain constant output voltage until the input dropped below the requirement of the regulator. But I was willing to be surprised - and was! I was willing to use a relay module if the dimmer didn't work out. But from what I see, it is an unregulated power supply, and would not expect this of the typical wall-wart. FYI, the wall wart in question is a LKG Industries (Philmore) model BE226. It's one of the ones with a slide switch, with 1/5/3/4.5/6/7.5/9/12V. It says 12v 300mA max. (Looked up online, was not able to get much in the way of details...) Was surprised as heck that it dimmed FULL RANGE on the dimmer! No strange sounds, cut-outs, etc. The sculpture has 9 of those little single-led tea candles that normally run on a button cell. Think now I will forget about getting a replacement wall wart, since I have one that's working! It's actually a pretty compact and reasonably non-ugly. If I do get a replacement, I'll shop carefully and make sure I get one that I can see a schematic for. It was a good one, too - a Lightech. Yes, I know about the 12V dimmable transformers. I used them at my old place for under-counter halogens. I doubt my sculpture would draw enough current for it, and they don't provide full-range dimming. And, to boot, the Insteon dimmer wasn't very happy with it.

A bit of an oddball topic, and not specifically UDI... But sometimes things that you wouldn't think would work, work... And that's useful to know! I have a large metal sculpture on a wall. It's a "tree", make of rebar and sheet metal. The artist is very talented at repurposing metal! It has a number of candle holders, which can take real or fake candles. I got a bunch of those fake LED candles at CVS, drilled holes in them, and wired each with thermostat wire (no more batteries!) and put a connector on each. I got a cheap multi-voltage wall-wart at Fry's and used it as a power supply. I can vary the brightness by changing the voltage switch. I wondered if a LampLinc could dim it.... and it can! In fact, works way better than any fancy dimmable LED bulb! I set the wall wart to 9V - it will go to 12, but don't want to push it. I seem to get full dimming range, rather than the limited range of LED bulbs. This was an experiment with an old 2-pin powerline-only Lamplinc. I plan on replacing it with a dimmer outlet now (for neat installation) and then get the smallest 9 or 12V wall wart I can find.

Even factory reset will not remove them. Link to your ISY, checking "remove all links". Then, if not using immediately, delete from ISY. Just went through this for a move.

That's one way. Alternately, you could use two micro modules, one per each light. That way, you can set the brightness levels independently. (SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc controls a scene. Each device in the scene can have a different brightness level, and when you change brightness they change proportionately.) Any switch can control any module or modules. You do have to have white neutral available where-ever you place the micro module(s). You can completely ignore existing switch wiring. First thing I do is wire any switched outlets to hot in the switch box, as I will use a LampLinc, etc. to serve that function. And any 3-way or 4-way wiring isn't used at all, as Insteon uses signaling instead of travelers. Free yourself from any consideration of the connection (if any) between switch box and load.

Yes, I was able to use the "IFTTT" URL directly from Locative. So, "IFTTT URL" is really a misnomer. The ISY simply accepts a POST with the required key. It doesn't matter if it comes from IFTTT or not. It's quite confusing the way the documentation is currently written!

You could use a KeypadLinc in the box, and use the dimmer on the KeypadLinc to control one of the circuits. For the other circuit, wire the circuit to hot in the switch box, and install a micro-dimmer in the fixture box. You can assign one of the buttons on the KeypadLinc to control the micro-dimmer. And of course you can also include the second circuit in a scene or scenes. Alternately, you could use a SwitchLinc to control one of the circuits. Install a (wireless only, internal battery) Mini Remote with a wall bracket next to the SwitchLinc. You then use a 2-gang screwless plate cover, and nobody will be any the wiser that it isn't a 2-gang switch. Well, except that the appearance and feel of the SwitchLinc and Mini Remote are somewhat different. (Mini Remote has an LED at the top, and doesn't show dimming level. You snap it out a couple times a year and charge it from USB.) I haven't done the fake dual-gang setup, but some complain about it feeling a bit hinkey. I would recommend screwing the bracket to the wall, ignoring the instructions to only secure it to the screwless plate backing. But I haven't tried a dual-gang setup like this. You will have to measure/mark carefully to pull off screwing it to the wall for dual-gang. I had a glass globe fixture in a walk-in closet with a pull chain. Glass globe in a closet is NOT code! And pull-chain is inconvenient. I maxed-out the storage in the closet with Elfa shelving from the Container Store. You wouldn't believe how many flip-top keep boxes I can get in that small walk-in (with 9-ft ceiling)! I installed a very flat LED-panel fixture in place of the glass globe fixture, and installed a Mini Remote on the wall outside of the closet. (Home Depot now has some great flat-panel LED fixtures good for this type of use in various sizes of round, square, and rectangular... They use the same light-pipe technology used in LED TVs. Well, those light-pipes need to be repurposed, since LED TVs will go the way of the Dodo Bird with OLED...) Some complain the mini-remote doesn't work well over a box. (Not an issue for your case.) It can get dislodged and push into the box, and feels insecure in any case. Those people don't read the instructions or sales literature! It's meant only to mount directly to the wall, not over a box! But can be ganged to look seamless. I like to install a KeypadLinc in every room, if there is a place for it. There are some issues with using the dimmer to control both a load and a scene, (if you set default brightnesses different, can run out of range) so best if there is a blank space and you just don't use the dimmer. There is a mini-remote switch, as well (two versions, different number of buttons) but, again, no status lights, no not quite as nice as a SwitchLinc and different feel to the switch. You don't need ISY for any of this. But it sure comes in handy for configuration! (vs. running all over the place pushing buttons for setup, and then trying to remember what you did when you want to change things.)

Will give that a go tomorrow. Yes, Locative supports POST. Only!

Yet to find an effective way to do this. Tried to follow the Wiki to use Locative, but the instructions are vague. I set-up IFTTT -> IFTTT/Maker then IFTTT/Maker -> Portal, but useless, because IFTTT is too slow. What am I missing here? Is there some way to go directly from Locative to portal? Is "IFTTT integration" in Portal a lie, and really it's "anything integration"? Can I just use the URL you get from the portal with any service that can send a post? Just looking for some solution that won't turn the lights on a few minutes after I get home! (which is useless).

Now works. I had to download the Admin Console directly from the UDI website. Using the link on the device interface gives me a version of the Admin Console that won't work with current Java security.

My Java security setting is set to High. The only other setting available is Very High.

It seems UDI's dependence on Java has become a bit of an albatross. With the latest updates of Java and Chrome, I am unable to access the console. I know this topic has been addressed here many times over the past few years, but the answers don't seem to solve the problem. I've seen suggestions to update the firmware, but I have no way to do that - Catch 22! I am able to access the web interface (after messing around with java settings to allow it) but not the console. It claims I need to update Java, but I already have the latest version (version 8, update 91) BTW, since I've recently moved it's fine if I have to do a reset of my device to install new firmware - but I need to know how to do it! Already set my device address in the exceptions list. I downloaded the admin console. When I open it I get: Application Block by Java Security For security, applications must now meet the requirements for the High or Very High security settings, or be part of the Exception Site List, to be allowed to run. [More Information] Reason: Your security settings have blocked an application signed with an expired or not-yet-valid certificate from running. My Java security setting is set to High (not Very High). There are no other choices. Particulars: isy994i OSX El Capitan 10.11.5 Chrome/Safari but willing to use any browser that will work

Here's an example from my setup. sendir,1:1,1,38000,1,1,342,171,21,21,21,64,21,64,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,64,21,21,21,21,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,64,21,1518,342,86,21,3655\r\n Heck if I can remember what this means or how I came up with this! Mode is C-Escaped. This switches an SR-22 A/B speaker switch an IP2IR. OK, this is an IR command, which is why it is so long and painful. You've got it easy! You probably just want URL-encoded.

Aside: Would be nice if you could use more than one SMTP server. That would be useful for "emergency" type messages - e.g. SmokeBridge, leak detector, etc. Setting up SmokeBridge. I wanted to send to just myself if home, or a distribution list if away, or if home after a timeout (if not silenced within the timeout). I wouldn't want recipients to have to guess who "ISY" is... (Of course, can include name in message, but should be in "From"...)

The "from" value (even in Customizations) is ignored if you use the ISY server. If you use your own server, you can set a global "from" in the SMTP settings, and then you can override it in individual Customizations.

Do I need to change the SMTP settings? I am using the default. Maybe it won't set "from" if you use the default ISY server? If that's the case, the "from" field should be disabled in the Customizations unless you are using your own server.

I know it's using the default setting. That's the problem! Yes, I clicked on "save".

Correct, REST API doesn't need the network module. However, my example above does, because my program has to access an IR emitter using HTTP. (I don't use the ISY IR option. I have a Global Cache' iTach IP2IR that has emitters on the A/V equipment (at least those components that don't have their own IP control). So, really, just using the ISY as an intermediary between IP devices. I also switch surround speakers between two rooms using an A/B speaker switch on one of the IR channels of the IP2IR. (wired, actually, but uses IR protocol). This speakers are switched based on Insteon lighting scenes. ("TV" or "Dine" scenes - screen can be swiveled between living room and dining room). In this case, if I want to use Roomie, it just changes the lighting scene, and then the speaker switch follows.

Sure. Use the REST API. Create your program, then go to the Summary view (Programs tab, then Summary tab). Look for the ID of your program (right-most column). To run a program with ID 002e, on a controller at IP address 1.2.3.4, for example: http: //userid:password@1.2.3.4/rest/programs/002e/run (Remove the space after the colon, I put it there to keep the forum from truncating the URL...) I have a strange application for this. I use the ISY to maintain a variable with the on/off state of my cable box. Because my cable box is a stupid one that only has a "toggle" power function. (You can't command it specifically "on" or "off"...) The cable box is controlled by an IP-connected IR emitter. I use Roomie Remote (iPhone/iPad AV remote app) and it can send HTTP messages. And, so, to have Roomie Remote turn the cable box on or off, it runs a program on the ISY, and the program on the ISY turns the cable box on or off...

I've created a custom notification. The From: part doesn't seem to work. It uses the default even though I filled out "from". e.g. John Doe:jon@doe.com I THINK I did it right, following the format shown on the form. I checked the PDF manual to see if I was doing something wrong, but this field isn't even shown in the manual. Emails arrive with From: ISY Alerts Texts arrive with: From: ISY Alerts

This happens with BOTH Keypads, though. I suppose I could factory-reset them and restore, but to also remove the button grouping - there is that dire warning. So, they would need to be removed from every scene they are a part of (or just where they serve as controller?) and then put back in. It would take a half day. Not worth it. I'll live with 4 LEDs on or only being able to set the scene from one keypad. The biggest problem here is that the ISY hides the real functionality of controllers behind a "scene" abstraction. Insteon has no concept of "scene" at all, the documentation doesn't explain it very well, and the UI seems to try awfully hard not to show the man behind the curtain.

If I turn the scene on manually from the ISY UI, it turns on ALL of the LEDs on BOTH keypads. If I turn the scene off manually from the ISY UI, it turn off ALL of the LEDs on BOTH keypads. It seems it simply ignores the levels. I'm out of ideas.

^ That only solves the problem for a single keypad, though. As far as I can tell there is NO way to turn of an LED on a different keypad when you activate a scene from different keypad. The level settings for the LEDs on the other keypad (both in the scene and controller) are simply ignored. Actually, worse. I still get the symptom where all 3 of the LEDs on the other keypad light, even if they weren't lit.

Well, I solved part of it. When you use the Copy Scene Attributes From... button, it does NOT copy the attributes for LED buttons! As a previous poster mentioned, you have to set these on the controller. Copy copies everything else. I was aware of not being able to set LEDs directly, but thought that was only to turn them on from a program. I do that successfully, and have a small number of scenes set-up for that. It's for my "Other Areas" buttons. The LED the D button of every keypad shows the status of lights in other areas. That is, if any lights are on in other areas, the LED is lit, otherwise it is unlit. This is controlled by a program, and so I'd had to set-up scenes for this. (Pressing the D button actually turns off the lights in other areas, and then ice they are off the LED will reflect that.)

As opposed to "Copy Scene Attributes From..."? When I change levels in a scene, I then go to every controller of that scene and Copy Scene Attributes From... It's never made sense to me, but, hey, I know it's necessary. Once I've done that, the on levels are set the same as in the scene, so I don't know what more I can do. I've pretty much given up on this. I've accepted that the LEDs are going to take on random states without rhyme or reason. Maybe some day they will come up with some UI that humans can understand. Now I am trying to initiate the same scene from two different keypads, and no way can I get the LEDs to work properly. I add the LEDs for both keypads to the scene, and Copy Scene Attributes From... but the LEDs are only set correctly on for the keypad that you push. That suggests to me that only the mutual-exclusion is working, and that setting the LED level in either the scene or the controller does nothing at all. It's hard to experiment, because the doesn't seem to be any way to remove buttons from groupings other than by doing a Reset which comes with a dire warning about damaging the scene. Once you have dragged a button to a group, all you can do with it after that it to drag it to the other group. There doesn't seem to be a way to "ungroup". Every few months, I decide to struggle with this again and get a little bit more kind-of working. It's not all the ISY's fault - the unreliable Insteon hardware certainly doesn't help a bit. Had I to do it again, I would not have spent the money on this barely-working stuff. When a software engineer Just Doesn't Get It, I can't imagine how others struggle with this. Back into hibernation for a few months. Hats off to those who do this professionally. I used to think they were over-priced. Now I realize they are not over-priced, just beyond my budget for something that is really not worth the cost that it takes to get this incomprehensible and unreliable stuff to work. I'm sure it's mostly an art, and involves selecting those parts that actually work together based on hard-won experience and eating the cost of lots of costly mistakes. Edit: trying to control the same scene from two different keypads, not only does it NOT turn off the LEDs on the other keypad, (which is what I want to do) it actually turns ALL of them On (on the other keypad)! So, i get the correct buttons on the keypad that I press, but completely incorrect LEDs on the other keypad. Yet both the scene and controller have the level set to 0 for the buttons that should be off.