jtara92101

Got this today on MacOS Sierra. Was setting a lampLinc OFF from the console. May or may not be related. But why would a socket be opened just when setting a device off?

No difficulty. I just installed it. I noticed that message in the event viewer. It seems to me that the ISY is complaining it could not open a file in the ISY's filesystem. I doubt that the OutletLinc is a relevant detail. It's just what I was doing when I got the message in the Event Viewer.

That's why I looked the other way and hummed a tune. It is apparently a linear power supply.

I finally installed the OutletLinc Dimmer today. As I expected, it is able to dim the dongle driving the LED tea lights (as was the LampLinc I had there previously). I had to fiddle with the power supply dongle a bit - the position of the dimmer key magnet is touchy! I had to look the other way and hum a tune as I read "LAMPS ONLY". (But these are lamps...) Insteon could be a bit more innovative with their products. I would like to see a "low-voltage linc" product. Either as a dongle or as a in-box device, give us a DC power supply that will supply some small current able to run stuff like this and control the voltage and perhaps current limit. Programming voltage range would be good. The 0-10V "ballast" is a step in that direction, though I infer it is actually an older device that they'd intended for fluorescent ballasts which in a commercial setting accept a 0-10V signal to set brightness. I've got one waiting for installation of kitchen counter LED strip with a driver that accepts a 0-10V control signal. But this probably wouldn't supply enough current for a number of LED tea lights, as it's intended use is just a reference voltage and would only need to supply a very small current. And of course not in the right form factor. We have a precedent in USB outlets that supply line voltage and 5V for USB charging. So, UL should permit this to be built-in to an outlet. As well, Insteon should move into making drivers for LED strip lighting with built-in Insteon control. Right now, you have accept "non-architectural" dimming with a "dimmable" LED strip driver run off of an Insteon dimmer, or else do as I am doing and get a 0-10V-controllable driver and the Insteon ballast dimmer. And forget about RGB, RGBW, RGBWW, WW, you need a Rasberry Pi (or some always-on computer), a driver, a power supply, a WiFi dongle, and a flying saucer. Optional installation by LGM. This space is WIDE OPEN for Insteon and they are seemingly doing nothing.

I installed a new OutletLinc Dimmer today. Was curious as to what Insteon engine was being used, as it is at the other end of house from PLM and have had issues with some locations only accessible via hops through I1 or I2 (not I2C) devices. Unclear to me how to interpret the Event Viewer results (I did NOT get the message about reverting to I1), but I noticed a curious and seemingly unrelated entry in the Event Viewer: [FileOpen] Open failed for [Conf/47.PRP] ® Does this mean there is some flash memory failure in my ISY994 or a corrupted file? I repeated Query Insteon Engine, and did not get the error message again, so could be completely unrelated.

I have some Commercial Electric screw-in eyeball conversions for 4" and 6" cans. They have phosphor on the face of the central "bulb" part, and have a very significant afterglow when turned off, similar to the Philips A19 phosphor buibs. I've been assuming this is purely the response time of the phosphor. I'd think that all high-CRI buibs will have to use phosphor, and so would naturally filter steps. It may be, though, that that afterglow is too weak to really act to filter steps. I noticed your lamps are CRI 82, not particularly high, but also not awful. But high enough that I'd imagine they need to use phosphor. Did you set the ramp rate of your scene that controls the lamp(s)? The scene will have default ramp rate unless you change it. The ramp rate you set on the controlling Switchlinc will affect the ramp rate of it's (I presume, non-existent) load. To avoid cognitive dissonance, set the ramp rates the same for the SwitchLinc and for the scene, so that the LEDs on the SwitchLinc will follow the dimming of the scene.

Oh, oh, oh.... That hot tungsten filament will take a while to heat up/cool down, and will smooth the steps! So, a really good LED bulb might try to smooth the transitions when brightness is changed, using essentially (either an analog or digital) filter. And to do it right, they will have to determine the ramp rate and adapt.

I doubt the brand of LED (or driver - I presume these lights have a built-in driver) is going to make a difference in terms of "stepped dimming". If it takes a 0-10V analog input, I think it's unlikely it will have a ADC (if it even uses an ADC, brightness control may well be analog) with fewer steps than the 2475DA2. The Insteon 2475DA2 specs say it has 32 steps. It goes from 0-10 volts in steps of 0.3125 volts. Looking at 2447D, regular Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer, the spec says it has 32 steps "locally", but "increments of 1% with software". Seems a bit strange that 2475D would only have 32 steps, since it has no "local" means of control. (No physical switch.) Has anybody ever noticed that SwitchLincs are more smoothly controlled "with software" (whatever that means!) than they are using local control from the switch paddle? The tear-sheet for the lamp isn't very specific. Just says "0-10V dimming". https://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/lithonia-2gtl2-lp835-brochure.pdf http://www.acuitybrandslighting.com/library/LL/documents/specsheets/LED%20TROFFERS.pdf Can you clarify just what you mean by that? I presume that, like any Insteon dimmer, you can program the ramp rate? No? maybe the default ramp is different?

I wonder if one reason for the push for TR sockets is that they couldn't get dongle makers to build their dongles upside-down? (So that outlets can be installed properly, with the ground pin UP. A dropped object then is likely to hit the ground pin first. But what about the neutral? It would be on the right then. I wonder if due to the spin of the earth... is there one of the remaining pins neutral/hot statistically more likely to be hit? If so, what about Australia? Mine are ground-pin-down now - I bought the ground-pin-up hook, line and sinker in old place, and... too many dongles I give in! Besides, ground-pin-down is more aesthetic. Either is permitted by code, at least in San Diego.) Anyway, it does help prevent accidents with half-plugged-in plugs. You still might have power with a plug a bit out of the socket. And then the occasional plug-that-was-made-with-too-short-prongs...

ALL of the outlets in the entire place were complete garbage, including 3 with open grounds and 1 with broken strap. The ones with the open grounds and broken strap were removed and capped at move-in. They are all being or have been replaced with commercial-grade TR outlets. The one for the tree sculpture is awaiting the OutletLinc dimmer, which will arrive whenever SmartHome's tin can phone lights-up with a call from American Express (still trying to get my lost shipment replaced, and SH needs confirmation that I removed the dispute.) The cover was off to vacuum out the inch of lint and to paint. I wasn't gonna stick the painted-on cover back on after fresh paint! Unrelated to electrical (unless The Three Stooges are doing the work...) had ALL of the angle stops replaced today, as they were a disaster-waiting-to-happen as well. (I LOVE that 3 Stooges episode where they get everything mixed up, and water shoots out of the stove burner, chandelier, and - the coupe de' gras - they turn on the TV and it shows a picture of Niagara Falls with predictable results.) And that's exactly why the one high on the wall behind the refrigerator and the one for the microwave got TRs as well, even though they are not required by code in those locations. I want to protect the BIG children as well! And of course under-sink. Not sure if that's required by code, but curious children do crawl under sinks. Any place where you might be fiddling with tools in a tight space needs TR. So, by inference, The Internet can kill you, because it is a series of tubes.

I don't know if this will work for you, but you could convert them to wired, as I have done. See attached photos. I have a metal "tree sculpture" that I commissioned. The artist made a few of them before mine, but only used battery-operated candles (which can be changed-out to real candles, if you want to live dangerously.) I got the idea to wire the LED candles, and he incorporated the wires. He's built several more now with the wires. Drill a hole in the base, push a wire through, and solder to the battery contacts. I used thermostat wire, as the stiffness was helpful for routing the wires through the sculpture and having them stay in place on their own without having to be tied-down much. I used connectors for each candle, so that they still can be swapped-out for real candles. I used a power dongle with switchable voltage from 1.5 to 12 volts that can be used to vary the brightness. But now I have them on a LampLinc and am able to dim them. I keep the switchable voltage at 9V to avoid burnout (though I have had no trouble with 12V, I just don't need it that bright...). I am awaiting shipment of an outletlinc to tidy-up the installation, whenever SmartHome realizes that American Express has removed the dispute over their lost package and has already notified them... (I am losing patience, though, and about to put it back on, along with a BBB complaint...) CAUTION: The lamplinc works great with THIS PARTICULAR POWER SUPPLY. It is apparently a linear supply, because it does dim nicely on the lamplinc, and to "architectural" levels. (That is, I can dim to very low levels.) It may just be that many/most of the switchable-voltage supplies like this will work. Otherwise, play it safe and use some on/off module! We've already had a discussion about this here, and I am sure others will chime-in with their own cautions. WFM but YMMV!

I don't know why a failing device would cause the firmware in the ISY to write when you ask it to read! Maybe there is a quantum link. A wormhole from the failing device that makes the ISY firmware act differently than it was programmed.

As well, why does it write when you Query Insteon Engine?

I wanted to see the device links table for a KPL. I got "Failed writing device link". (followed by "Failed reading device link") when doing Query Device Links Table for the device. Why would the ISY be writing device links when wanting to READ device links? There were no "unwritten" icons prior to doing this.

Look for videos on how to drop the can. You do not remove the entire fixture. You are thinking about it wrong. There are (typically) 3 screws inside the housing, on the sides. Remove these, and then the can part should come free from the rest of the fixture. They will typically be attached to a sort of stiff wire frame, or in any case some kind of attachment points to the overall fixture. At least if they are 6" cans. If they are 4" cans, you will need a VERY short screwdriver! (Or an offset one and a lot of patience.) It will not just fall out easily, it will take a lot of fiddling. Maybe a little drywall repair when you are done. For 6" cans, at least, you can then almost certainly access the little electrical box. The cover is just on the "box" with a springy-tab arrangement. No screwdriver needed. With a screw-base can, the base will typically be on an L-bracket attached to one of those screws. It will probably have a thumbscrew on it. There's another good use of that thumbscrew! I put in LED conversions on my 4" screw-base cans. I didn't have to disassemble these as I did my 6" kitchen fixtures that had the fluorescents. The conversion comes pre-wired to one of those pigtails I mentioned above. (It's how I got the idea! I went to the electrical supply with one of the pigtails from a conversion kit. "Do you have this?" Well, they didn't have it with the orange connector attached, but they had it with just wire pigtails! Anyway, the conversions got mechanical interference from the screw-base, and wouldn't push in all the way. But the socket height in the can is adjustable, and so you can loosen the thumbscrew and push it up a bit. I don't recall if those 4" cans also had one or two additional screw that might be used to drop the can from the fixture. I do think this is probably overkill. Easier to just ring it out with the screw-base pigtails.

If the cans are Halo, they will be fairly easy to drop. If they are not, they might not be. (Ask me how I know...) And I don't know how easy 4" cans would be - I've only done 6" (for an LED conversion of fluorescent ones - had to drop the can to bypass the ballast.) There should be many YouTube videos for this! But you may not need to. Go to an electrical supply, and they might have a screw-in base with pigtails. Get at least a couple of them. (My electrical supply has them.) With the power off (verify with a bulb!) screw in the base with pigtails. Really - for safety - it is best if you cut power to the entire house. Now you can wirenut a long wire to one of the leads, bring the other end of the long wire back to one of your switches, and check for continuity with an ohmmeter. You should be able to eventually figure out your wiring. Of course, then you will not be able to test hidden connections in the can's electrical box. (e.g. if the box is used to make some other wire connections unrelated to the can). I'd imagine electricians use some device to put a signal on the wire that can be easily detected without having to bring a wire to the other test point to check with an ohmmeter. You can probably get a basic one pretty inexpensively. I've used an ohmmeter. (Actually, I use it with a buzzer functionality.) This is called "ringing-out" a circuit. (I suppose because of the buzzer feature on meters.) This will either allow you to figure out your wiring, or drive you to drink. When you do, stop playing around with wires!

Haven't looked, but I wonder how many implementations of Colossal Cave Adventure have be released already as iMessage plugins?

And as I am an app developer, and thought it might be interesting to do an iMessage plugin, open to ideas related to ISY! I write apps for big companies to use internally. But always looking for ideas for The Next Big Thing to do "in my spare time". But then, before I find that spare time, a big company wants something in a rush. And of course, this does open up a world of possibilities for Big Company Apps.

Not related to ISY, but O M G... iOS10 + iMessage plugins + the other dot I don't know if they've actually implemented "Dot post-it notes", but that's how you'd do it for iOS10. (Yes, I'd guess this has been possible on Android for some time. Hold the "I told you so" snickers!) I haven't explored iMessage plugins (actually, have not installed iOS10 yet - not prudent!). But I get messages on a group with friends where they are using all these silly iMessage plugins. Some actually show something (like an animated GIF) on iOS9. Some, (thankfully!) do the best they can on iOS9 by saying things like "Laughed at Digital Touch message". Now this is something actually USEFUL.

Wait, I think maybe Insteon has a product just for this. I seem to recall a product announcement a while back. A good name for such a product would be "Is This Thing On?" My way above will not work if you plug more than one lamp into the outlet. (I tested it. I have two lamps in my bedroom plugged into one LmapLinc.) Yes. Here it is! SynchroLinc. It's a big ugly box. But it will be hidden under the bed. http://www.smarthome.com/synchrolinc-insteon-2423a5-power-synching-controller.html?src=Froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQjwjem-BRC_isGJlJ-0h-MBEiQAbCimWGBtcrbFHuGMFqEIs56Ptax1wTMnn4i1YS-Fj0NovkEaAlCM8P8HAQ I don't like the name SynchroLinc. They should change it to "Is This Thing On?" Check to make sure ISY supports it. I see review comments that it's not supported by Insteon Hub II, but they might be old comments.

I can think of a round-about way. But you need to explain more fully the Sleep Number remote. Do they have some dongle you plug into an outlet, and then the Sleep Number remote will turn an outlet on the dongle on and off? If so, does the dongle do dimming also? If it does dimming, my work-around will not work. If it is just on/off, it should work. Insteon inline dimmers have a "sense" feature. They send a small current through the lamp, and can sense when you flip the switch on the lamp. (I think I have seen comments here that this works only for incandescent buibs. However, with Phillips LED bulbs "works for me". It shouldn't matter if it is the switch on the lamp, or the relay in the Sleep Number dongle. (But if the Sleep Number dongle is off, of course the switch on the lamp will do no good.) But it probably needs to be a true relay, rather than a triac. To be more clear: I have a floor lamp in my office. It is plugged into a LampLinc 2457D2. It has a Phillips LED in it, and the floor lamp has a switch. I normally leave the switch "on". I switch it remotely from a KeypadLinc. But if the switch is "off", and the KPL is also "off", if I flip the lamp switch off then back on, the lamp will light. And then the status of the LampLinc is also "on". But you won't be able to turn the light on from Insteon if the Sleep Number relay is off... ---- Tangental, but might give you some OTHER ideas. Since you have a Sleep Number bed, have you considered using one or more Insteon magnetic door open/close detectors? Might be cool to have reading light on when in reading position! You might be able to rig it up with double-sided sticky tape. (I HATE double-sided sticky tape, though. You have no idea how long it took to get rid of all the remnants in my new apartment!) When I was in college, I worked as a student assistant writing code for the mainframe operating system. (Michigan Terminal System). There was for a time a persistent problem where the mainframe would halt periodically and the system would have to be rebooted. One of the full time employees at the school (who is now retired from Apple) is an innovative thinker. He rigged-up a sensor to detect the halt light on the console, and a solenoid to press the reboot button.

Both line-of-site and echoed (bounces off of interior surfaces) sound waves will arrive at each device at different times and at different volumes. it shouldn't be difficult to distinguish which device was closest to the sound source. This can be determined by some mathematical analysis of each sound signal captured at each device.

I think it would be unreasonable to expect otherwise. They would have to buffer (which assume they already do), sync the buffers using some PLL technique (maybe tight control of time sync using e.g. ntpd), AND compensate for the differences in arrival time between the different speakers and your ears. And so it will need to know just where your ears are!

^ Yes, I fixed that.

Oh, great. A walkie-talkie app that you can control your lights with. Nothing worse than the IT guy standing outside your cubicle shouting into an iPhone pretending the Blackberry is back!