jtara92101

Is there a manual for 5.0.16c admin console? Alternately, can somebody explain the new device settings for dimmers? There now is: - On 0-100% - Beep 0-255 - On Level - Off - 100% - Ramp Rate 0.1 seconds - 9.0 minutes - Backlight - 0-100% I don't understand what "On" is. I might GUESS it is minimum level. But if I set it, then Write Changes, the turn ON and OFF, it goes back to 0%. On and Beep have a "disclosure arrow" and if you click it, it removes the widget for the value and says "click to specify". I don't understand by it always sways has Backlight. An OutletLinc (for example) has a backlight? So, this begs the question: is there a manual? I don't find this in the Wiki.

Is there currently anything else that works with Occupancy 2.0? I gather that UDI Mobile has the single purpose of implementing the geofencing on your phone in order to provide one of the inputs to Occupancy 2.0? Was it ever released for iOS? I can't find it, but I see the Android product. Are there other geofencing apps that work with Occupancy 2.0? I'm thinking like some 3rd party app of more general purpose, such as a full remote for ISY? So, basically, this is similar to Locative but talks directly to Occupancy 2.0? From discussion I have seen, there are issues with high background usage, and perhaps no iOS app at all? Sorry for all the clueless questions. I might be able to throw this together quickly if there is interest. I might want to charge a few bucks for the app for my trouble. I'd imagine it's a small market, but willing to give it a shot. There is no reason that geofencing needs to have an app run in background on either iOS or Android. The app gets notifications from the system, and briefly "wakes up" when criteria are met. "listening" for the fence boundaries is managed centrally by each of iOS and Android's central geolocation code. Exactly. That's how it is SUPPOSED to work. I've done this before. I wrote a little taximeter app a few years ago that I never released. Now... no taxis! And a couple other apps that deal with geo, one for home inspection for energy assessments and one for facilities maintenance technicians. So, pretty familiar with how this is SUPPOSED to work, and you are right on track.

Hmmm, don't have any yellow icons, and don't think I did before. I have some with green "frame", one with a red "frame", and most with no "frame". I have one that has the Then in blue. Is that a comment? I can't edit the Then. If $Away is not 0 Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. I only have a few programs. I can just replace all of them. I decided the blinky-blinky has nothing to do with programs. Its poor bridging, despite a good number of dual-band devices. Something to do to my 3-phase star/Wye wiring, I think. (You had another name for it). For reliable setup, I have to run an extension cord to the bedroom and put the PLM on the extension cord to get it on the other leg. Oh. Edit... LOL I don't need to run the extension cord to the other room or other leg. I just need the extension cord! OK, sure, I can just drop a long orange extension cord behind the server cabinet where it won't be seen... Is there some filter that will demonstrably help? It seems the long extension cord is a good enough filter. I rebuilt the PLM a couple years ago. I think I have more caps if need be. And another old PLM I could rebuild. But with quality caps I installed, shouldn't be necessary. (Going off topic here, but I know Larry knows a lot about this stuff.) The blinky-blinky I think is "I can't talk to the PLM".

Transitioned to 5.0.16C, my first 5.x. Went smoothly, and didn't lose anything, but... Some programs now apparently do not run and as well cannot be disabled. In Summary page, they all say: - Not Saved - ... under Activity. Might it help to delete and recreate the programs? Only thing I see in the log is a line like: Mon 05/18/2020 07:13:08 AM : [ Time] 07:13:15 2(0) Which is what I get on a disable that works. Also, I have a SwitchLinc that is set to run one of these programs on fast on, and one on fast off. Of course, the programs don't run. The ON and OFF button lights cycle on/off 8 times on a NORMAL on or off. (NOT fast on/off). Dunno if this is related. I think this may actually have been an issue before the transition. ---- Edit: I deleted/recreated two of the programs. (Bedroom All On, Bedroom All Off). Now they can be disabled/enabled and they run. Strangely, now NONE of the programs show - Not Saved - under Activity. It appears now that all can be enabled/disabled. I'd guess they all run now, will check later. Is this some bug with the upgrade from 4.x? Programs left if a modified but unsaved state?

No, that's exactly what I thought! So, we are on the same page. Still unclear if the Google Home portal adapter will just automatically use the names I assigned to ISY devices. Assumption is made here that one has a Google Home in each room. I don't. In fact I only have one. The place is so small, it can hear me in my office, living room, or kitchen. So, can't depend on the Google Home to locate where I am. I've been meaning to get a mini for the bedroom. I was assuming you could use a voice prefix for the room to disambiguate. So, yes, I started out with just "lights'. And, so, I say "turn on the living room lights" and the air conditioning came on... I'm going to re-add the Home connection and start over from scratch.

We must be using entirely different things. I'm using the Google Home integration available in the ISY Portal. Connectivity/Google Home. You have to create a Spoken mapping for each action you want to be able to perform, AFAIK. Each to a device, scene, program, or variable. Is there some way that it "just works"? What am I missing here? My device names in ISY aren't the best to speak! For example, I have scenes called "LR Main" "BR Main", etc. But scenes don't even seem that useful, since you can apparently only turn them on or off. And devices called for example "BR Lamp Window". Because when I set it up I wasn't thinking of convenient names for spoken commands. To add to the trouble, Google insists of defaulting the name of my Nest to "Living Room" because it's been assigned to that room. As well as my Chromecast. So I have two devices called "Living Room" so good luck getting "Living Room" to turn on the lights! I try to turn on the living room lights, and it turns on the cooling... I changed the name of the Nest. I had to create a room called "Nest"!

I've deleted the Universal Devices device from Google Home. Too complicated. I can get up and push buttons easily enough. I guess you have to do this in order to delete anything you've added anyway? You have to delete ALL of the spokens, right and delete the device, right? Not ready for prime time. Geez, Red Lamp is still there. Even though deleted along with everything else. Arggh! Red Lamp won't go away. The Universal Devices integration won't go away.

OK, giving up for now. I set up Chester. The keypadlinc that controls the living room lights scene. Now Home app shows Living room lights. I can turn on or off in the Home app. But it just turns the red lamp on/off. Google Home does nothing speaker does nothing now. I've been able to control individual lights. Maybe best to stick with that. I just have to give them silly names.

Haven't decided yet if I am going to replace the Nest with an Ecobee. But pretty sure I will. In the mean time, Google's naming conventions are driving me batty. Next problem I have is that I have a Chromcast device. It's of course called Living Room. So, I guess I have to do something wacky with it as well so that I can turn my living room lights on and off. I think I should take a clue from one of my neighbors. She's an Alexa fan. And one of her lights is named "Bob"... Off topic, but I guess Insteon scenes are less than useful for controlling from Google Home. Because you can only turn them on or off. Going to try controlling the switch that is linked to the scene instead. But haven't found a trigger word that will work yet, because of the "multiple things called living room" problem. So, I think I will call that switch Chester. I have a red lamp. That is, it's a decorative lamp with a red fiberglass shade. At least "red lamp" works, and also makes sense.

Just getting used to 5.x/Polyglot/Polisy and just set up Google Home on portal. I don't use the Nest node server, not sure if it even works or if there is some use for it. I already transitioned my account. I have a related concern, though, and ugly workaround... I set up a few commands for Google Home e.g. to turn control living room and kitchen main scenes. I ran into a roadblock because Nest defaults to naming after the room the Nest is in. Well, my Nest is in the living room, so it's called Living Room. Which is insanely stupid. Because then I can't have a Google Home scene Living Room. It will turn the Nest on/off instead of the lights! I found out the ugly solution is to make a custom room - "Nest". I had to change it in BOTH the Nest app and Google Home app before things would work as I expect. Now I can say "turn living room on". And it will turn on the lights. Not the thermostat... Is there a better way? Of course, now my Nest is shown in a room called Nest...

As to the MacOS Roomie app, it is pretty messed-up. I can switch, for example, between activities TV, Apple TV, BluRay, etc. But the selected activity doesn't get highlighted! And I don't get a channel guide on TV. But I do get a (blank) channel guide on Apple TV! I may refund it. Is it any part of an ISY solution? Hmmm, it's confused about state. So, now I choose Apple TV, but it stays on TV. I can access the channel guide. I actually can't change to Apple TV now. Clicking on Apple TV just stays on TV. And my system is switched to TV, but I have the controls for Apple TV. But I have the channel guide.... what a mess!

So, I think your discussing something else. Confused! I just installed the Roomie Remote app on my Mac Mini from the MacOS App Store. Installed the SimpleControl poly on Polisy. Added Node Server to ISY. Added all nodes. (SimpleHub, Device) No idea what to do next. SimpleHome appears under ISY. I can query. How do I use it? Or is this the wrong thing/obsolete? I have to leave the app open on the Mac Mini? No real headless service? Better than nothing! I do see my configuration in the MacOS app.

Good timing, I was wondering about this. I JUST updated to 5.0.16c and I use Roomie Remote. No complicated scenario like multiple phones/iPads on different accounts. (One phone. One ipad). I really just want to get my isy994i to shut everything down when I fall alseep with the system on! Maybe switch my surrounds from back speakers to hokey speaker bar emulation when I am in an adjacent room based on lighting. (I have a switch on an IR bus for that.) I just got a Polisy (that was my reason for upgrading to 5.0.16c from 4.x.). I see there is a poly for SimpleControl but obviously will not work with Roomie Remote. What are my options? I don't see anything in the Admin Console about Roomie Remote? do I use the SimpleControl poly even though it's now Roomie Remote? Is thee some app I install on my Mac that emulates the old server? OK, I see there is Roomie on the Mac App Store. There are In App Purchases, it looks like they are just the subscription levels? (Which I already have on iOS, so don't need to duplicate?) Are there other, round-about routes? e.g. through HomeKit? (I've yet to touch HomeKit, as no HomeKit devices...) Google Home? IFTTT? I do have an always-on Mac Mini. Just seems a bit silly, ISY, Polisy, Mac Mini bouncy bouncy bouncy LOL. At least that's better than a dedicated iDevice...

I have another strange thing going on. Have not meddled with it for a while, but the excess messages are bugging me. What I find is that I get TWO "opened" messages every time the door is opened! The second one is delayed. That is, I get an "opened" message immediately. Then a couple minutes later, I get another.

Thanks - that worked! I had opened it up, but didn't recognize the address as such. Apparently these can't be discovered? Now, one more thing... Front Door - Opened - shows status of Off or On. But Front Door - Closed - shows no status. Nor Heartbeat, but don't know what I should even expect there. Obviously, I can use Opened in programs. But curious about Closed and Heartbeat.

How do I link a 2843-222R open/close door sensor? I am using v4.6.2 I swear I have done this successfully before. But I had no need for the sensors - now I do. I put the sensor in linking mode, and nothing I do seems to pick up the sensor. Link management - start linking Link management - New Insteon Device (auto discover) Link maangement - link a sensor None of them do anything. There is no address anywhere on the sensor, so I can't enter the address. But there doesn't seem to be any auto-discovery happening.

Yes, you can dim the 12V (or 24V) side. You need a driver that has some means of control. ONE way is to use a driver that accepts a 0-10V control signal. There is an Insteon product that can be used to generate the control signal: http://www.insteon.com/0-10v-ballast-dimmer/ You would use it with something like this: https://www.diodeled.com/0-10v-dimmable-led-drivers.html The Insteon dimmer has been on sale for some time for $49. You can certainly get cheaper products than the Diode LED. It was just the first link that came up in my search. Diode LED is a very high-quality manufacturer that you will find at your local commercial electric supply. This combo will give you "architectural" dimming to <1%. Other ways include: DMX, proprietary (e.g. Hue, Magic UFO), etc. Dimming on the 12 (24)V side is the CORRECT way. Dimming the 120V input to a transformer is a KLUDGE. Most installations use the kludge, because it is an easy retrofit with existing wiring.

There were/are a few Insteon products. Most of the Insteon deals aren't too smoking, but there is a good deal on SwitchLinc on/off, if you need that sort of thing.

KPLs are not designed for fluorescent ballast loads! And they cannot be usefully dimmed with a triac dimmer. You need to either disconnect it, put it on an on/off module of some sort, or get a 0-10V fluorescent ballast which can be controlled with an Insteon 0-10V module (but that doesn't make much sense...). Sure, I can see it causing a wider failure of the KPL beyond just the SCR, due to heat damage.

You will not find one that does architectural (<1%) dimming on an SCR dimmer. It is impossible. Warm glow bulbs do "OK" due to a side-effect of their "color temperature changing" trickery. There are a few LEDs that are always on at a constant level and they have a lower color temperature. They are driven by a circuit that will work at very low voltage levels. As the voltage is reduced, the few LEDs with the warmer color temperature dominate the emitted spectrum. It is not so difficult to make a circuit that can drive those few LEDs at a low voltage input as it is to drive ALL of the LEDs at a low voltage input. I guess one could make an also "OK" bulb that does not have changing color temperature by doing something similar with all of the LEDs at one color temperature. But, really, the scheme involve extreme and silly over-complication in order to accommodate existing control devices (e.g. SCR dimmers). Almost ALL bulbs with INTERNAL dimmers can dim to architectural levels with no problem. This includes e.g. Hue bulbs (but which may suffer from OTHER glitches) and many commercial troffers that use old-school analog 0-10V dimming signal or that use some proprietary or standard (e.g. DALI, DMX512, etc.) digital signaling scheme. I think this link will "shed light" on the subject. This is ONE of the new solutions in the offing: http://www.enlight-project.eu/user/files/insta_ledotron-article_25_09_2013.pdf The basic issue is we are trying to retrofit existing wiring. The kind of LED bulbs we screw into standard outlets will be an odd curiosity from a few years of history in the future. They are a strange transitional adaptation that will never work really well. Save them for your children's retirement! They will be worth a bundle! You can make-up for the childhood toys that you failed to leave in the box, unopened, or the Apple I you threw in the trash!

That's to be expected, as ALL browsers are removing the ability to use a Java plugin. Your probably updated Firefox. Going forward, you should use the standalone admin console. Search the forum - there are TONS of posts about it. I don't understand what you mean about switched outlets. Why would you plug the ISY or devices into a switched outlet?! Disable all of your devices. Unplug them if plug-in, or gap them if in-wall switches (pull the little plastic tab). Start with ONE device that you have factory-reset. Factory-reset the PLM. If it is an in-wall device, it is convenient to put it on a zip-cord for test. Plug the PLM and device into a normal outlet - no power strip, no filter, no UPS, etc. etc. etc. Plug the PLM and device into the same duplex outlet, or outlets that you are sure are on the same circuit. Once that works, next step is to establish bridging to the other leg of your house wiring.

To clarify Michel's response, if you "already have a certificate", you would have (typically) created a CSR from some command-line or GUI app using Windows, MacOS, Linux, etc. It would have generated a private key, and saved it in a file. It would have been up to you to retain and safeguard the file with the private key. The private key is not recoverable. If you've lost it, you'll need to get another certificate. If that's how you created your CSR, the private key is where-ever you put it. If that's what you did, you MIGHT find it in a hidden directory called .ssh on whatever computer you generated it on. Maybe under your home directory. If you generated the CSR on your ISY (Dashboard Settings/Network/Server Certificate) ISY created a private key for you, and stored it in the ISY. And then you would use "receive certificate". You don't need to have the private key, but I guess it would be included in your ISY backup. You are asked for a "keystore password", which isn't well explained. I GUESS you supply a password to protect the file that holds the private key. (I've never set up my ISY with a server certificate. I've done the command-line bit for various unrelated certificate needs.)

I think they actually have. Maybe at least on their own devices. But Java manages to be pretty resilient against anything sensible that's been done in an OS to make your life easier. I have a Surface Pro 4 sitting here for a project, and I noticed something about global font size in the settings. I didn't play with it, but it caught my eye. I just fired it up to run updates ALL DAY SUNDAY due to the ransom-ware scare. I also did my yearly opening of my Windows 10 VM (VMWare on MacOS) to also run updates NEARLY all day Sunday. (It went faster.) Typically, I do this once a year, and then never use the VM. Unfortunately, this time I'm going to need it in about a month. I might install the ISY admin console on the Surface Pro to see if it plays nice with font size.

Yes, exactly. As I understand it, though, UDIs future plans for not relying on Java would be to create a fully-functional admin UI that can be accessed from a web browser. A "web app" per-se. Like UDAjax, but fully-functional admin. So, in the future, if you don't like the font size, you will just adjust your browser font size. As well, it would be easy for them to also support font size selection within the UI itself, and it could remember your choice in localstorage, cookie, etc. So, "when they eliminate the reliance on Java" it becomes a non-issue. It won't be using Java, either on the desktop or with a browser plugin. Just HTML/CSS/Javascript/AJAX.

There's no "maybe" about that! You would then just adjust the font size in your browser.