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oberkc

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Everything posted by oberkc

  1. Is your portal account still active and connected to your ISY?
  2. oberkc

    if then wait

    I dont believe that a wait statement will force a re-evaluation of the conditions. However, if a triggering event occurs during a wait statement, further execution will halt, and start at the beginning action based upon whether the new condition being true (runs THEN path) or false (runs ELSE path). in your case, if a triggering event (variable changing value is a triggering event) during the 25 minute wait, further execution will halt and, given that the new condition is now false, will run the ELSE path, which has nothing in it.
  3. It has been a while since I used "tasker" app for this purpose. Unfortunately, my latest phone does not have any of the tasker profiles I had on previous phones so I am going by memory on all this. IIRC, I think mobilinc had a tasker profile that could be used. Mobilinc also had it's own widgets. I have, unfortunately, lost track of mobilinc capabilities since moving to a subscription service. I used to rely on android tablets throughout the house as home control devices but have gotten away from that for reasons that are increasingly unclear. I used tasker widgets along with mobilinc widgets on those tablets and they worked really well. Maybe there is still something there that can be used. Regardless, I think widgets and tasker plug-ins would be a wonderful addition to UD Mobile.
  4. Confirming MrBill...Changing the "and" to "or", all other statements being unchanged, will result in a different result. At 6am, it will trigger and now run TRUE (ran false before.). At sunrise, it will also now run true (ran false before.) In case it was not mentioned before, control conditions are true ONLY at the moment the device (light sensor, in this case) sends the expected command. At all other times, control conditions are false. Compare that to "status" conditions. Status conditions trigger programs whenever a device changes state (for any reason) and will remain true for as long as that device remains in the stated state (off, in this case).
  5. I think bpwwer provided a robust response. I disagree thate ELSE clauses are universally not useful. the reason you get so may emails is, besides the fact that your program is triggered three times ( 5:21, 6:00, 9:30, all false) is that you also have one-minute waits, followed by a second email. From your program, I expect an email at dusk, dusk + one minute, 6:00, 6:01, 9:30, and 9:31.
  6. I forget the menu structure in 4.x, but I thought is was similar in function to 5.x. You may have to right-click on the individual devices within the scene and restore each from there.
  7. I agree that this is strange and, likely, not as it should be (based upon memory of 4.x). There are only four devcies in the scene. If restoring the scene does not work, it would not be that time-consuming to delete the scene and re-create it.
  8. It is, in my estimation, worth clarifying this...”control” is true only when the switch is manually “controlled”. Furthermore, it is true only at that moment it is triggered and false at all other times. Additionally, control triggers a program only when the specified command (on, off, etc...) is initiated, regardless of previous state. status commands trigger a program whenever the status of a device changes state, regardless of how initiated (manually, as part of a scene or program, etc...), is true only when the new state is the one specified, and will remain true until the state changes.
  9. I am unaware of any real difference between the terms “hub” and “controller” if you have the ISY, you would not need a separate zwave controlloer or hub.
  10. It depends upon which problem you refer. I had always hoped that insteon includes methods for avoiding signal collisions such as those discused here, but experience and suggested solutions suggests otherwise. I expect using a scene would be better for aoiding these signal collisions, yes. However, if your problem is general communication problems, I doubt that using a scene will help much. one advantage to using a scene, all other things being equal, is that all you lights will generally respond at the same time.
  11. I am one of the people who use scenes, rather than calling individual devices, in programs. I don’t know whether it will solve your problem, bit it is worth trying. Put the lights listed in your program into a single scene and call the scene via program.
  12. Not really. Folders can be used to organize devices, or to organize (and enable/disable) programs. The only way I can think to create programs for devices that do not yet exist is to use scenes in programs, then add new devices to scenes as you get them.
  13. Then...you would need to find an electrician who knows how to read directions. OK...so you have previously installed a micro module in one of the switch locations. This suggests that there is a neutral available at that location, which suggests that this location is where the hot and neutral are introduced into the circuit. That suggests to me that you will not be able to install a micro module at the fixture box, or at the garage switch box. Still, it would be nice to know how many cables are coming into each of the two switch boxes and how they are currently wired to the existing switches.
  14. While tmorse305' diagram looks correct to me, it assume that you have unstitched power at the fixture box, which may (or may not) be true in your case. You must identify where there is access to hot and neutral, and this can be done by evaluating how the two switches are wired. Unfortunately, the clues are not all contained in your single picture. In each switch box, one would have to note: - conductors and colors connected to each switch - how many cables (bundles of conductors) enter each switch box and colors and routing of the conductors within each switch box. For example, the three conductors (two black, one red) connected to your pictured switch...do they come from a single cable or from more than one cable? What about the other switch location? Are there conductors in the switch box not connected to the switch?
  15. Regarding your step 20, this appears normal to me. If you press a button (configured in toggle mode) that is already on, it will turn off, as will all responders to that button. If your use case include pressing a button that is currently on, and you expect it to stay on, you would have to configure the button to be "non-toggle (on)". As extensive as your post was, it is focused on the responder settings for button 12.BD.0A.A, and those look correct (all responder buttons are set to OFF). Reminder, you must check this for EVERY controller button in the scene. Select 12.BD.0A.B....are all responders set to off. Check C button for same responder settings. Then, individually select each of the three buttons on device 12.B8.1E and ensure each of the responders is set to off. Regarding the ISY automatically configuring a mutually-exclusive relationship based upon your scene settings, I have no experience to confirm this (unfortunately, also, I do not have a couple of spare keypads with which to play around). I would not expect this either and your trials suggest to me also that this may be a bug. Was that relationship also automatically set up for the second keypad? Edit...I checked one of my Keypads (single keypad, single scene with four buttons (all controllers), all responders set to OFF. In fact, my keypad also shows a mutually-exclusive relationship configured. I don't believe that I did this either. I guess I can now confirm behavior like yours in this regard.
  16. This makes me wonder how long will the PLM be available. I don't think there is any smarthome device or software that uses the PLM. Only third-party devices use the PLM, right? Ugh.
  17. Agreed. Just responding to the question about whether there was any documentation on this. Exceptions also include "repeats", I understand.
  18. Regarding controlling alexa via the harmony remote....I do not recall that this is possible. I believe one can add the harmony skill to alexa which enables one to control a hub via alexa, but I don’t recall the reverse (controlling alexa devices via the hub) being true. Hopefully, others can correct me if I remember incorrectly.
  19. There is some discussion of this in the wiki. A quote: "What this means is that if a program's Then clause changes a condition which causes the program's overall condition to become false (or if the program's Else clause changes a condition which causes the program's overall condition to become true), the current atomic statement group will complete, and at that point execution will transfer from the Then clause (or the Else clause) to the Else clause (or the Then clause)."
  20. I second the recommendation for the hue emulator (as opposed to the hue node server). I found it a little counterintuitive, but it works great once you get your head around the concept. I am also assuming you are using a harmony hub device. In my mind, the hue emulator simulates a hue hub (even if you already have an actual hue hub, which I do). The harmony remote hubs can find hue hubs and control them. In this case, you want to link the harmony remote to the hub known as the hue emulator, not the real hue hub (if you even have one.) Once linked, the harmony app can find the devices in the hue emulator. IIRC, ISY devices can be added to the hue emulator by assigning a "spoken" command to those devices you want to control. Once they are added to the hue emulator, add the hue skill to your harmony and try to find your hue emulator (harmony thinking it is finding an actual hue hub.) Once found, the devices added to the hue emulator (those having "spoken" assigned) will show up as devices that can be controlled via your harmony remote and assigned to your light or outlet buttons. I have likely omitted a few details, but the hue emulator is one of the node servers that I definitely like.
  21. I have a scene just like CJVann is trying to create. KPL-B button is controller. Other devices responders. KPL button in "non-toggle (off)" mode. Pressing the button causes all the responders to turn off and the button light flashes a couple of times and turns off. Works great. @CJVann ... it sure sounds as if you are doing things like I did. The only thing coming to mind is that yours is likely a newer keypad and it seems to me that smarthome can sometimes make "feature" changes over time. Given the same results when manually configured, my best guess is that this is an issue with the keypad, itself. Were this me, I would remove and factory reset one of the switches. Once reset, manually configure the button. If the button stays on when toggled, I would conclude this to be a new feature or faulty device (however you look at things.) If it turns off when toggled, I would factory reset again, add back to the ISY, and configure the button via the admin panel. Does it still turn off when toggled? If so, add the scene members. Do things change? I would be breaking this into small steps to identify at what point the behavior deviates from the expected.
  22. When you press the button (regardless of the LED backlight), does the ISY think it turns on or off? I wonder if you could configure this manually. I see instructions in the user manual.
  23. To be honest, I am unsure about this. I doubt that it would hurt, but I suspect that it would not change anything in the context of a motion sensor.
  24. With ISY, "controllers" are, by default, also "responders". I guess this is a residual from that definition, even though it make little sense for a motion sensor to be a scene responder. I do not believe there is a way to define something as only a controller. I also believe it does not matter here...motion sensors do not listen and are unaffected by controller action. I would ignore this.
  25. There are a lot of folks around here that are good with variables. I recall that alexa is looking for a value of 1 = on, so it is pretty simple. I think I use this technique in a couple of places. You will pick it up quickly.
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