oberkc

This is how I have done a lot of my devices. In a couple of cases, this is the only way I could get it to work. I sometimes update them, and when I check the neighbors for each device, the logical ones seem recognized.

I had a single switch that exhibited this behavior for a few years. I have several of these same brand and model switches yet only one exhibited this behavior but I never did figure out how to make that annoying (switch otherwise worked) green icon go away. Recently, I replaced the switch for unrelated reasons. No more green icon. Was this a bug in the ISY? A bug in the switch? A faulty or marginal device? Not sure there is enough data to reach any conclusions.

While I do not suspect this to be the problem, it is easy enough to check…. what happens if you try to include one of the buttons into a scene with anothe insteon device, as a controller? Does the scene work?

Yes, "status" works on mine also. If, however, your logic works better with a "control" condition, try the "add/refresh button press node" trick. It might work for you (it does for me.)

The GE smart switch is z-wave!? I have had zero luck using "switched on" with GE switches. "Status" seems to work for me, but not "switched on". There is one trick that I am aware of: right-click on the switch node and choose "zwave>>add/refresh button press node". Once the node is added, see if this new node triggers your program. I understand that other z-wave devices might work better in this regard.

I have found the same thing in my house

Don't think that you will accomplish your goals with a scene. I understand the quicker nature of scenes, and your desire to take advantage of this, but scenes are between devices and cannot be disabled as far as I know. No. I think you are fighting an uphill battle here.

I don't expect that this will do what you want. In general, Insteon scenes cannot be stopped. Unfortunately, I cannot say with certainty that a mixed (z-wave/insteon) scene cannot be halted, but suspect the same is true as for a fully-insteon scene. Controlling when a device reacts to another device is best, in my estimation, done via programs, without scene relationships. Delete the scene and create a program such as: if time is from sunset to sunrise (next day) and motion sensor is switched on then turn on light wait a little bit turn off light else turn off light There are additional possibilities and sophistication that one can add, depending on needs and interests, but this should get you started.

IIRC, adding a program to Alexa will result in the program executing THEN path when Alexa is told to turn it on, and executing the ELSE path if told to turn it off. No condition is needed.

I am only superficially aware of how all this works together. I am not familiar with many of the details. I would try restarting the node server. After that... Open alexa app, see if errors message with individual devices or indication of problems with the ISY skill

Is your portal account still active and connected to your ISY?

I dont believe that a wait statement will force a re-evaluation of the conditions. However, if a triggering event occurs during a wait statement, further execution will halt, and start at the beginning action based upon whether the new condition being true (runs THEN path) or false (runs ELSE path). in your case, if a triggering event (variable changing value is a triggering event) during the 25 minute wait, further execution will halt and, given that the new condition is now false, will run the ELSE path, which has nothing in it.

I hear such predictions regarding apple homekit. We will see, I guess.

It has been a while since I used "tasker" app for this purpose. Unfortunately, my latest phone does not have any of the tasker profiles I had on previous phones so I am going by memory on all this. IIRC, I think mobilinc had a tasker profile that could be used. Mobilinc also had it's own widgets. I have, unfortunately, lost track of mobilinc capabilities since moving to a subscription service. I used to rely on android tablets throughout the house as home control devices but have gotten away from that for reasons that are increasingly unclear. I used tasker widgets along with mobilinc widgets on those tablets and they worked really well. Maybe there is still something there that can be used. Regardless, I think widgets and tasker plug-ins would be a wonderful addition to UD Mobile.

Confirming MrBill...Changing the "and" to "or", all other statements being unchanged, will result in a different result. At 6am, it will trigger and now run TRUE (ran false before.). At sunrise, it will also now run true (ran false before.) In case it was not mentioned before, control conditions are true ONLY at the moment the device (light sensor, in this case) sends the expected command. At all other times, control conditions are false. Compare that to "status" conditions. Status conditions trigger programs whenever a device changes state (for any reason) and will remain true for as long as that device remains in the stated state (off, in this case).

I think bpwwer provided a robust response. I disagree thate ELSE clauses are universally not useful. the reason you get so may emails is, besides the fact that your program is triggered three times ( 5:21, 6:00, 9:30, all false) is that you also have one-minute waits, followed by a second email. From your program, I expect an email at dusk, dusk + one minute, 6:00, 6:01, 9:30, and 9:31.

I forget the menu structure in 4.x, but I thought is was similar in function to 5.x. You may have to right-click on the individual devices within the scene and restore each from there.

I agree that this is strange and, likely, not as it should be (based upon memory of 4.x). There are only four devcies in the scene. If restoring the scene does not work, it would not be that time-consuming to delete the scene and re-create it.

It is, in my estimation, worth clarifying this...”control” is true only when the switch is manually “controlled”. Furthermore, it is true only at that moment it is triggered and false at all other times. Additionally, control triggers a program only when the specified command (on, off, etc...) is initiated, regardless of previous state. status commands trigger a program whenever the status of a device changes state, regardless of how initiated (manually, as part of a scene or program, etc...), is true only when the new state is the one specified, and will remain true until the state changes.

I am unaware of any real difference between the terms “hub” and “controller” if you have the ISY, you would not need a separate zwave controlloer or hub.

It depends upon which problem you refer. I had always hoped that insteon includes methods for avoiding signal collisions such as those discused here, but experience and suggested solutions suggests otherwise. I expect using a scene would be better for aoiding these signal collisions, yes. However, if your problem is general communication problems, I doubt that using a scene will help much. one advantage to using a scene, all other things being equal, is that all you lights will generally respond at the same time.

I am one of the people who use scenes, rather than calling individual devices, in programs. I don’t know whether it will solve your problem, bit it is worth trying. Put the lights listed in your program into a single scene and call the scene via program.

Not really. Folders can be used to organize devices, or to organize (and enable/disable) programs. The only way I can think to create programs for devices that do not yet exist is to use scenes in programs, then add new devices to scenes as you get them.

Then...you would need to find an electrician who knows how to read directions. OK...so you have previously installed a micro module in one of the switch locations. This suggests that there is a neutral available at that location, which suggests that this location is where the hot and neutral are introduced into the circuit. That suggests to me that you will not be able to install a micro module at the fixture box, or at the garage switch box. Still, it would be nice to know how many cables are coming into each of the two switch boxes and how they are currently wired to the existing switches.

While tmorse305' diagram looks correct to me, it assume that you have unstitched power at the fixture box, which may (or may not) be true in your case. You must identify where there is access to hot and neutral, and this can be done by evaluating how the two switches are wired. Unfortunately, the clues are not all contained in your single picture. In each switch box, one would have to note: - conductors and colors connected to each switch - how many cables (bundles of conductors) enter each switch box and colors and routing of the conductors within each switch box. For example, the three conductors (two black, one red) connected to your pictured switch...do they come from a single cable or from more than one cable? What about the other switch location? Are there conductors in the switch box not connected to the switch?