oberkc

Athlon, please make sure you go back and be sure you have read all the posts. We have had a lot of overlapping posts. I have suggested a solution, but I recommend that you draw my recommendation out and see if it becomes clear to you. Clearly, my view and apostolakisl’s are different.

Yes, this sounds correct.

If I understand correctly, neither of the switches will control the load. There are insufficient conductors in place for this, thus the micro module. Load will be connected to the micromodule.

This is a standard switch loop. Lets start with box 2. There is only one cable (number 1) connected to the switch in question, correct? This is, in my estimation, the other end of cable 1 of box 1. None of the other cables in box 2 matter and should be left alone. In box 1, cable 1 is the other end of cable 1 from box 2. Box 1, cable 2 is the other end of cable 2 at the fixture. At the fixture, cable 1 is supply. Cable 2 goes to box 1. Cable 3 goes to additional fixtures controlled by these same two switches. If you follow apostilakisl’ advice, carry it further and confirm voltage between B and W of fixtre cable 1. There should be no voltage between any other cable pairs. To install the micromodule and insteon switches.... At the fixture, connect all blacks together, including black from module, but exculding black from fixture. Connect all whites together, including module and fixture. Connect red from module to fixture black. All grounds go together. At box 1, connect B from cables 1 and 2 together, along with switch black. All whites from cables 1 and 2 go together, along with white from switch. Cap red wires from cable 1 and from switch. At box 2, connect black to switch black. Connect W to switch white. Cap red from cable 1 and from switch. Applying power at this point should energize all three new insteon devices. Creat a scene with switches 1 and 2 as controllersm module as responder. Set responder levels as desired. Done.

Icannot help but suspect I am only seeing a partial picture so far, so I can offer only some generalities and suspicions. Why does your program ‘door lock’ have both CONTROL and STATUS conditins? What are you trying to accomplish using both?. In the ‘unlock’ program, Is scene H is off’ a STATUS or CONTROL condition? Have you tried CONTROL? Once you try CONTROL condition, you may be able to get rid of the remaining conditions. Your use of variables and timers suggest, to me, that there are logic problems that need addressed. Once addressed, I would get rid of these. I have trouble believing what you want to caannot be accopmplished. Having said that, I wonder is the zwave lock limits the logic tools available. My experience is also that zwave devices do not always trigger a CONTROL condition.

Is the "kitchen master h" a scene? Sometimes, you have to put those buttons in a scene then activate the scene.

I have had trouble creating scenes with zwave controller and keypad button responder. I understand that there is something unique about keypad buttons that make this impossible. Also, using "control" conditions with zwave can fail, depending on the device. Perhaps these factors have contributed to your problems?

My open/closed sensor shows closed status. Is this the door sensor you have. If I recall correctly, there may be settings which would affect whether the closed status appears. From the manual, this may be called "multi-scene" mode. You could use a program to notify you after a period of time if left open, but that would likely require having the sensor configured to send closed status.

Is the possibility of having multiple devices on port 80 a potential cause of this error? I think I would try a different port for the ISY and point your dyndns URL to that new port.

That seems unusual to me, as well. While I would not go so far as saying it is impossible, it is sure worth considering the likelihood that there are other switches involved. It is certainly worth seeking confirmation from the OP.

I would have liked a description of how the switches were wired (as twice asked). I am unfamiliar with "California three way", but was able to look it up and was not convinced that this eliminates the possibility of smart switches. I am also not sure that the use of four-way switches here guarantees a third set of switches somewhere, especially with one connector unused. Given that lack of original wiring description, I think I will back out of this discussion unless I see something come along where I think I can help.

The bottom picture appears to show a single cable to each switch, black, white, and red. Correct? I am unable to follow all the conductors in the top picture. Does it have four cables in the box, with two BWR cables and two BW cables? How are they currently connected to the switches? My best guess is that one of the BW cables in the top box is supply (line and neutral), the second BW cable goes to load, and the two BWR cables go to the switches (why do you suspect otherwise?) If all the blacks and whites are wired together, as you state, there would be no blacks or whites to connect to the switches. I do not understand your "4 lights" description. What four lights? If the switches in the top picture are both wired to a single BWR cable, and have no connections to the bundle of live blacks and white neutrals, then those switches have no neutral and supply is most likely supplied at the fixture and that the BWR cables pass through the fixture box, rather than directly between the switches. I am still hoping for a description of the wiring in all the boxes, as requested in my original response. Without that, I can only speculate and assume.

Both switches appear to be part of a three-way arrangement. Are there other switches that control the load also controlled by these two switches. Most likely, none of the conductors attaced to these two switches are neutrals. The white bundle may be a neutral. it is likely, in my estimation, that you will need to replace the other two switches with zwave versions. In order to be more specific, you will need to describe the wiring in all boxes. This includes a description of all cables in the box, number and color of each conductor within each cable, and to what they are connected.

Your program is adjusting the default backlight levels for on/off, rather than turning the button on or off. I would take the approach suggested by techman...create a scene with the sensor as controller and keypad button as responder. Eliminate the current program. For the downstairs lights, I might do the same thing, but it would depend on how many lights, how they are controlled, and the logic you want to employ. If all are currently controlled by a single switch or single scene, then create a scene with switch as controller and button as responder. If you must use programs because of additional logic needed, then create a scene with the KPL button only included. In your current programs, replace the action that sets the backlight levels with an action that turns on/off the scene, as appropriate.

Are you turning ON a scene that includes the button, or trying to adjust the default backlight settings? (Sounds as if the latter.) Feel free to post the program, but I suspect you should istead be turning the button ON rateher than adjusting the backlighting.

I would probably stick with the redundant approach. Oftentimes during communication difficulties, status is assumed and can be incorrect. Perhaps you could query each, then resend an ON command for those not responding, but I think your approach seems simpler to me.

All may be true, but I did not think one could command that remotelinc2 to change status. It cannot be a responder to a scene. Like I say...may not be worth much. But, in light of follow-up question, perhaps it had some value. I think the answer is "no". Perhaps part of that reason is because it is a battery device and is not constantly listening. Or, perhaps apostolaksl is correct. My recollection is that the remotelincs cannot be responder to a scene.

Andrew77, for what it is worth (which may be nothing) I don't believe those little remotelincs have a button status. They are neither ON nor OFF.

That is the one I use. Sounds like you have it figured out. Watch out for those white wires! Make sure you correctly identify supply cable (white is neutral) versus cable to box 1. There may also be other cables in there that go to distant locations. If so, those whites would be all connected together with supply cable.

The micro module must go, in this case, in the fixture box. This will allow the re-purposing of the BW cable from fixture to box 1 to be line and neutral to the two switches. B and W of the BWR cable would be connected, also, to line and neutral. Red would be abandoned. Neither of the switches would directly power the fixture, but be linked to the micro module via scene.

I am uncertain of the unintended consequences of having two identical conditions. I would get rid of one. This program should shut off the scene "cooking" every time an ON command is received by pressing BRRemote-C Cooking. This program should not cause lighting to fade off and turns on again and other oddities . Is it possible that the remote-C button is also a scene controller? There is no option for scene status. You did not miss it.

Athlon, did you not tell me that you had neutrals in box 2, three white wires connected together? Did I misunderstand this statement? Did you read the second post of this thread: "First and foremost, for safety's sake, be aware that for any 3-way switch configuration, a white wire connected to the switch is never, ever a neutral wire." If nothing more, please take a lesson from this that one cannot assume something is a neutral because of the color. Given your latest description of the wiring in box 2, I think it is safe to state that you have NO NEUTRALS in that box either. Please put the wires back the way they were. Your only solution is the micro module in the fixture box. I think I will stand admonished by mwester and lilyoy1.

I would put this caveat on ALL electrical work. If you don't feel confident that you know what you are doing, don't do it. For the record, the original wiring (the switch loop) is a pretty common wiring scenario. They certainly show up often in this forum. The proposed solution is also pretty standard and has been recommended many times here, as well.

Athlon I think Asbril has it correct here. If you have neutral in box 2 and IF the lights are all on the same circuit breaker (otherwise you have a risk of overloading the neutral conductor and causing a fire), you could tap into that neutral for the new insteon switches. Only you know your confidence level regarding those two conditions, so I will leave it to you to take the risk or decide otherwise. Do you have a voltmeter? Do you know how to use it? When you have all the wires disconnected and safely separated, find out for sure which conductor has 120VAC to confirm assumptions that it is the white conductor in box 1 from the RW cable. In box 1, connect the white from the BW cable (assumed as supply, from fixture) to the black of the BWR cable. (Put some black electrical tape on that white wire to identify that one as something other than a neutral.) Connect those two conductors also to the black of the switch. Connect the white from the BWR cable to the switch white (which will be soon be connected to neutral from box 2). Connect the red from the switch to the black from the BW cable (assumed to the fixture). Leave red from the RBW disconnected, capped with a wire nut. In box 2, connect white to that neutral bundle, and also to switch white. Connect switch black to the black from the BWR cable (which is now connected to supply in box 1). Cap off switch red and cable red. Connect all grounds if available. Link two switches into a virtual 3-way. Done.

Atholon, what you have here appears to me to be a switch loop. Box1Cable2 comes from fixture, I believe. White is supply, black is switched power back to the fixture. Unfortunately, you have no neutral at this box (at this time) which explains why none of your combinations worked. The RBW cable goes between your two switches, with red and black being the travelers and white being the switched power back to box 1 and, ultimately, to the fixture. There are two potential options here. One would be to use a micro module in the fixture box, linked to the two insteon switches. This would require the re-purposing of the various conductors (not too hard). The second option would be to steal neutral from box 2, but this assumes that there is a neutral AND (emphasis intended) that the other switch is powered by the SAME CIRCUIT BREAKER! If not powered by the same circuit breaker, you are likely limited to option 1.