oberkc

I would probably stick with the redundant approach. Oftentimes during communication difficulties, status is assumed and can be incorrect. Perhaps you could query each, then resend an ON command for those not responding, but I think your approach seems simpler to me.

All may be true, but I did not think one could command that remotelinc2 to change status. It cannot be a responder to a scene. Like I say...may not be worth much. But, in light of follow-up question, perhaps it had some value. I think the answer is "no". Perhaps part of that reason is because it is a battery device and is not constantly listening. Or, perhaps apostolaksl is correct. My recollection is that the remotelincs cannot be responder to a scene.

Andrew77, for what it is worth (which may be nothing) I don't believe those little remotelincs have a button status. They are neither ON nor OFF.

That is the one I use. Sounds like you have it figured out. Watch out for those white wires! Make sure you correctly identify supply cable (white is neutral) versus cable to box 1. There may also be other cables in there that go to distant locations. If so, those whites would be all connected together with supply cable.

The micro module must go, in this case, in the fixture box. This will allow the re-purposing of the BW cable from fixture to box 1 to be line and neutral to the two switches. B and W of the BWR cable would be connected, also, to line and neutral. Red would be abandoned. Neither of the switches would directly power the fixture, but be linked to the micro module via scene.

I am uncertain of the unintended consequences of having two identical conditions. I would get rid of one. This program should shut off the scene "cooking" every time an ON command is received by pressing BRRemote-C Cooking. This program should not cause lighting to fade off and turns on again and other oddities . Is it possible that the remote-C button is also a scene controller? There is no option for scene status. You did not miss it.

Athlon, did you not tell me that you had neutrals in box 2, three white wires connected together? Did I misunderstand this statement? Did you read the second post of this thread: "First and foremost, for safety's sake, be aware that for any 3-way switch configuration, a white wire connected to the switch is never, ever a neutral wire." If nothing more, please take a lesson from this that one cannot assume something is a neutral because of the color. Given your latest description of the wiring in box 2, I think it is safe to state that you have NO NEUTRALS in that box either. Please put the wires back the way they were. Your only solution is the micro module in the fixture box. I think I will stand admonished by mwester and lilyoy1.

I would put this caveat on ALL electrical work. If you don't feel confident that you know what you are doing, don't do it. For the record, the original wiring (the switch loop) is a pretty common wiring scenario. They certainly show up often in this forum. The proposed solution is also pretty standard and has been recommended many times here, as well.

Athlon I think Asbril has it correct here. If you have neutral in box 2 and IF the lights are all on the same circuit breaker (otherwise you have a risk of overloading the neutral conductor and causing a fire), you could tap into that neutral for the new insteon switches. Only you know your confidence level regarding those two conditions, so I will leave it to you to take the risk or decide otherwise. Do you have a voltmeter? Do you know how to use it? When you have all the wires disconnected and safely separated, find out for sure which conductor has 120VAC to confirm assumptions that it is the white conductor in box 1 from the RW cable. In box 1, connect the white from the BW cable (assumed as supply, from fixture) to the black of the BWR cable. (Put some black electrical tape on that white wire to identify that one as something other than a neutral.) Connect those two conductors also to the black of the switch. Connect the white from the BWR cable to the switch white (which will be soon be connected to neutral from box 2). Connect the red from the switch to the black from the BW cable (assumed to the fixture). Leave red from the RBW disconnected, capped with a wire nut. In box 2, connect white to that neutral bundle, and also to switch white. Connect switch black to the black from the BWR cable (which is now connected to supply in box 1). Cap off switch red and cable red. Connect all grounds if available. Link two switches into a virtual 3-way. Done.

Atholon, what you have here appears to me to be a switch loop. Box1Cable2 comes from fixture, I believe. White is supply, black is switched power back to the fixture. Unfortunately, you have no neutral at this box (at this time) which explains why none of your combinations worked. The RBW cable goes between your two switches, with red and black being the travelers and white being the switched power back to box 1 and, ultimately, to the fixture. There are two potential options here. One would be to use a micro module in the fixture box, linked to the two insteon switches. This would require the re-purposing of the various conductors (not too hard). The second option would be to steal neutral from box 2, but this assumes that there is a neutral AND (emphasis intended) that the other switch is powered by the SAME CIRCUIT BREAKER! If not powered by the same circuit breaker, you are likely limited to option 1.

Is it possible that you have a program triggered by the remote that is sending the x-10 command?

Just be aware. I am not sure that one should consider insteon, the ISY, the echo, and geofencing to be "security". While I would be comfortable having the ISY double-check my door locks, I would not rely on it as my primary method of ensuring doors are locked (still do this manually) when I leave the house. It is great for lighting (no big deal if it does not work on occasion) or other things unrelated to the security of the house. For locks...I am less certain.

Well, yes, I suppose you will have to tell the ISY you are home somehow. I agree it is a bit of a nuisance to announce it to alexa or to press a keypad button. Can you not think of another way? Open garage door? Open entry door? Geofence with your phone (the method I use)? Carrying the logic a bit further, I would consider it no less a nuisance to have to tell alexa (as it seems you are doing now) that you are leaving. For this reason, I have automated that task. I use phone location determine if house is unoccupied. With two people, I use the logic: if phone A is away from the house and phone B is away from the house then house is unoccupied. While I still have the manual methods (keypad button), I rarely employ it.

Well, I would create some way for ISY to track whether you are home or away. I use a keypad button (on = away). One could use a variable (I would use a state variable in this case). Once done, incorporate that condition in you programs. Change your alexa routine to switch the tracker status rather than turn off a scene directly. If I am away then set goodbye scene off if I am away and time is from sunset to sunrise (next day) then randomly turn on and off else turn lights off

There is no such thing as a scene "status" in the current definitions of insteon and the ISY-994, so there would be no scene condition available as a program condition. For the echo routine, could you not simply call a program such as: ---------------- if nothing then turn on goodbye scene wait 5 minutes lock door ----------------- For away status, I have used a couple of techniques. One way is to use a variable (1= home, 0 = away). The other way is using a device (keypad button in my case, on = away, off = home). Either of these methods yields a way to create a condition for program or folder: ---------------- if home variable = 0 and time is from sunset to sunrise (next day) then wait one hour (random) turn on some lights else turn off lights ------------------ Of course, these are all conceptual and I leave the details to you. If you have specific questions, I would be happy to answer. Hopefully, this will get your creative side pointed in the right direction.

The transformer is plug-in? (Inlinelinc is probably easier to connect to a hard-wired transformer)

Cannot see anything you are missing. Your dampers require power (on/off) only, correct?

I would expect typical setting for keypad button to be NON-TOGGLE ON, rather than off. I also expect that you will have to configure your relay to respond to ON commands. Momentary A should work, but changing that to ON rather than OFF. There is a tutorial on the wiki that gives a more thorough explanation.

The micro module can be used as a scene controller, which confirms that it broadcasts status. You could, with the ISY, either create a scene or a program triggered by the module. The module can also be used as a scene responder, or react to direct commands, confirming that you can control the level from the ISY. You will be happy with this purchase.

While I have not used the micromodule with a motion sensor, I think you will find the answer is YES to both questions.

I was not sure whether disabling the device would disable scenes. Apparently not. if important enough, you could remove the keypad-in-question as scene controller and, instead, trigger programs from the keypad buttons. Doing so would allow you then to disable the programs and, consequently, responses to button presses.

Barring a flaw in the ISY software, I see nothing in your program that would cause this behavior. A keypad button, when toggled off, will not come back on by itself, and I see nothing in this program that would do this. Does it appear to first turn off, then come back on? I would be looking at other possible causes. I remain curious if any of these two "different" keypad buttons are part of any scenes, and that they are, indeed, in toggle mode. I would also check to be sure that these buttons do not trigger other programs that have been forgotten. Press one of your two buttons, then look at the program log to see if programs have been triggered unexpectedly. Watch the ISY admin panel status of one of your two buttons when pressed. Does it turn off, then back on?

What are "Basement / Exercise / Exercise South.1" and 'Basement / Stairs / Bsmt Stairs Controller.1'? Are these also keypad buttons? Are they part of any scene? Are these possibly configured as non-toggle mode of some type? And...you claim that if you press one of them OFF, it does not turn OFF? I fear I am confused.

I don't believe that you can assume that the "run program 'calc temperature' (then path)" must complete before the variable is updated. A wait statement could work, but you may also try a third program: if time is 12am then run program calc temperature then path else nothing Add to the calc temperature program an action such as: "run third program (then path) Create a third program if nothing then $Variable = $Cur_Temp

Keep in mind that the "relay" part of the IOLinc does not report status (thus cannot be a scene controller). Compare this to the sensor, which DOES report status and CAN be a scene controller, but does not respond to commands. Given this, the status of the relay, as shown in the ISY admin panel, will be the last sent command, regardless of momentary/latching mode. If you last sent an ON command, the status will show ON until an OFF command is sent, even thought the relay turns itself off after 2 seconds. So, even though the relay shows ON, it may be off. Sending another ON command will toggle it again, given you have it properly set in momentary mode.