oberkc

Using status may be the easiest approach, but would depend on your goals. If you desire only to track and react to the switch being manually turned on (as opposed to being turned on as a scene responder, for example), another approach could be: if control 'bonus' is switched on and control 'bonus" is not switched off then ….unchanged....

I use, also, a couple of z-wave sensors. I have not noticed one being better than the other as far as battery life. I, too, get much more than a couple of months with both insteon and z-wave sensors. Maybe a year...maybe more.

In the case of ISY-994, a controller is, by default, also a responder.

I don't believe anything has changed due to the major overhaul. I think the advice can still be good, but would depend on conditions. If your conditions can often get triggered, but often false, or if your action can re-trigger the program, it might be good to separate the condition from the action. Such a separate can prevent the triggers from interrupting wait statement and repeats. An example: if time is sunset and status light is off then turn light on wait 2 hours turn light off else nothing When this program triggers true, it will run, but immediately re-trigger (false) and halt the wait statement, re-running the else path. In this case, best separate the conditions and actions.

first, make sure that the garage lights are not in a scene with the motion sensor. Alternatively, you can put it in a scene, but make sure the motion sensor is configured only to send ON commands. Then... if control motion sensor is switched on then turn on garage lights wait 10 minutes turn off garage lights

I am not sure that ANY outlet is waterproof. The question, I think, is the ability of the insteon electronics to survive the temperatures and humidity. I still have a couple of X-10 devices that work well outdoors for such things. It is like a short extension cord with the brains built-in. I also have a similar (though larger) z-wave module. Perhaps something like this would work for you.

In addition to the suggestion by Larryllix, one can also check which programs last run. When you experience that light going off at unexpected times, check your program list to see which programs recently ran and could have turn it off. If not a program, do make sure that the light is not part of any scene that includes motion sensors or other controllers that might be turning off for some reason.

But this is not what is happening, correct? The lights are turning off even if the door is still open, correct? If so, my question stands...are the lights turning off at sunrise? Or are they turning off at other times even when the door is open?

If the program works, then clearly the ISY is seeing both OPEN (on?) and CLOSED (off?) status. I have no idea why it would not show up in the admin panel.

I am not sure that "control" is the solution here. To be clear, you are saying that the light is turning off at times other than sunrise, correct? Your program WILL turn the lights off at sunrise, regardless of sensor status.

Have you figured out why you don't see "closed" status on the ISY? (This program will not work without having both open and closed status for the ISY.)

Did you create a scene with both switches as controller and module as responder? If so, within that scene select each of the controller devices and make sure all responder levels match up. All three devices should have identical ON level responses.

And the insteon switches have all the fancy LEDs which satisfies the geek side.

Sorry. When I said “module black”, this would be the “line” connection. You may need to add a short wire extension from the bundle of blacks. “Module white” is neutral connection. “Module red” is load connection. Yes, the sense wires will be unused in this case. Ironically, you could use your existing two switches with the micromodule sense wires and have complete automation control.

Athlon, please make sure you go back and be sure you have read all the posts. We have had a lot of overlapping posts. I have suggested a solution, but I recommend that you draw my recommendation out and see if it becomes clear to you. Clearly, my view and apostolakisl’s are different.

Yes, this sounds correct.

If I understand correctly, neither of the switches will control the load. There are insufficient conductors in place for this, thus the micro module. Load will be connected to the micromodule.

This is a standard switch loop. Lets start with box 2. There is only one cable (number 1) connected to the switch in question, correct? This is, in my estimation, the other end of cable 1 of box 1. None of the other cables in box 2 matter and should be left alone. In box 1, cable 1 is the other end of cable 1 from box 2. Box 1, cable 2 is the other end of cable 2 at the fixture. At the fixture, cable 1 is supply. Cable 2 goes to box 1. Cable 3 goes to additional fixtures controlled by these same two switches. If you follow apostilakisl’ advice, carry it further and confirm voltage between B and W of fixtre cable 1. There should be no voltage between any other cable pairs. To install the micromodule and insteon switches.... At the fixture, connect all blacks together, including black from module, but exculding black from fixture. Connect all whites together, including module and fixture. Connect red from module to fixture black. All grounds go together. At box 1, connect B from cables 1 and 2 together, along with switch black. All whites from cables 1 and 2 go together, along with white from switch. Cap red wires from cable 1 and from switch. At box 2, connect black to switch black. Connect W to switch white. Cap red from cable 1 and from switch. Applying power at this point should energize all three new insteon devices. Creat a scene with switches 1 and 2 as controllersm module as responder. Set responder levels as desired. Done.

Icannot help but suspect I am only seeing a partial picture so far, so I can offer only some generalities and suspicions. Why does your program ‘door lock’ have both CONTROL and STATUS conditins? What are you trying to accomplish using both?. In the ‘unlock’ program, Is scene H is off’ a STATUS or CONTROL condition? Have you tried CONTROL? Once you try CONTROL condition, you may be able to get rid of the remaining conditions. Your use of variables and timers suggest, to me, that there are logic problems that need addressed. Once addressed, I would get rid of these. I have trouble believing what you want to caannot be accopmplished. Having said that, I wonder is the zwave lock limits the logic tools available. My experience is also that zwave devices do not always trigger a CONTROL condition.

Is the "kitchen master h" a scene? Sometimes, you have to put those buttons in a scene then activate the scene.

I have had trouble creating scenes with zwave controller and keypad button responder. I understand that there is something unique about keypad buttons that make this impossible. Also, using "control" conditions with zwave can fail, depending on the device. Perhaps these factors have contributed to your problems?

My open/closed sensor shows closed status. Is this the door sensor you have. If I recall correctly, there may be settings which would affect whether the closed status appears. From the manual, this may be called "multi-scene" mode. You could use a program to notify you after a period of time if left open, but that would likely require having the sensor configured to send closed status.

Is the possibility of having multiple devices on port 80 a potential cause of this error? I think I would try a different port for the ISY and point your dyndns URL to that new port.

That seems unusual to me, as well. While I would not go so far as saying it is impossible, it is sure worth considering the likelihood that there are other switches involved. It is certainly worth seeking confirmation from the OP.

I would have liked a description of how the switches were wired (as twice asked). I am unfamiliar with "California three way", but was able to look it up and was not convinced that this eliminates the possibility of smart switches. I am also not sure that the use of four-way switches here guarantees a third set of switches somewhere, especially with one connector unused. Given that lack of original wiring description, I think I will back out of this discussion unless I see something come along where I think I can help.