paulbates

Did you make a recent move to eisy? What color is the programs icon if you look at the program's status... is it yellow. If it's yellow, it might be due to migration, and you need to go into the program, re-pick the right item to replace undefined and resave it

Adding to the speculation, it could be argued there'll be another eisy family product in the future with the necessary HW. Having said that, AI code can be written server side on existing platforms like Claude, today.

Back in the portal, where you changed having an Alexa spoken call a scene instead of a switch, you can change it from calling a scene to calling a program, Having said that, it's unclear, from a diagnostic point of view, how that will affect the problem other than trying it. On the one hand, I had your described kind of problem with the alexa in my ecobee thermostat over a year ago. I used it for a year where it worked great, and then it was a combination of problems: Either said "hmmm I can't do that" (or something like that)... or act like it did it, and nothing happened. The voice isn't that important to me so I just shut it off. If you follow the kind of procedure @IndyMike suggested in your last post; go to Tools/Diagnotics/Event Viewer and set it to level 3. Repeat the steps that are causing the problem and post The steps you took The output from the event viewer at the same time

Your timing is interesting because these have recently been coming to a head for me as well. My Insteon network is mature and in cleanup / maintenance mode. In fact it's shrinking as all remaining Insteon sensors are migrating to Yolink. It's now dealing with these 2 little leftover problems... And more of a WAF thing.. "why does that flicker sometimes?"... and it bugs me as well. We'll be selling this house in a few years and want to get this solved and move on to other things I just exchanged emails with Insteon about these flickering / flickering on Insteon traffic, and their recommendation is try combinations of the flicker capacitors; that they can help in many cases but sometimes don't do anything. As much as these micro modules are a perfect solution for where they are and what they're doing, it's a mining operation to get them in/out. I don't look forward to one more journey in there.. let alone possibly more fiddling with capacitors that may not do anything. Everything else Insteon in my house works as expected.. so I'm raising the white flag on this one and replacing the micro dimmers with micro on-offs. I originally made these rooms dimmers "just cuz" and in several years of use in these active living areas, they have never been dimmed in any setting other than me testing it during installation. In other areas we do dim Insteon n-ways and it works great but not at these locations.

I have 2 of these. Each powering one LED can recessed light bulbs. They are 5-6 year feit 9w, 75w equivalent, LED can lights. They occasionally get the dreaded traffic flicker. I have a number of i3 paddles, 7 of them are controlling the exact same bulbs in the exact same fixtures, some up to 5 LEDs per switch... no problems. I'm thinking of order the blue/yellow flicker capacitor kit from insteon. I've been avoiding it as both of these will be a mining operation to get out. But given the weather I should get going

My house has a number of recessed LED can lights that are over 6 years old. There are 10 in the kitchen and the loads are split between 2 i3 paddles and micro dimmer module. The one on the micro dimmer module started dying. The existing bulbs are all the older Feit 9 watt warm glow 2700k from Costco. I didn't want to replace the whole room, just the one. My local Lowe's hardware only had things I hadn't heard of, including this Ultitech. It works well: It looks almost identical both in fixture style and lit bulb appearance to the Feits. The group dimming is really accurate and tracks down to the very lowest dim level where it goes out a little early, but that could be blamed on different switch type and the way the load is spread. I never do that anyway. I'm happy with them for $12 vs what Amazon wants for the same Feits

I had this kind of problem in the distant past, it was an old cable drop from the pole/service to the house. The service got flaky sometimes when it was raining. The service provider at the time replaced it and that resolved it. I remember I walked around with him as he checked it out. He remved the connection from the drop to the house... shook it and water came out!

It's not that hard. In the UDI portal where you defined the relationship with the Insteon switch, you move the entry for the switch, and add an entry for the scene instead of the switch. Login to the portal. Tool > Connetivity> Amazon Echo Delete the line for the switch and add the scene

There's a few moving parts here and it's probably best to go through them. (Good brand) Cable modems are not problematic. My arris s33 cable modem about to go into to its 5th year and I've never had to reboot it. If I lose internet, lights on the front tell me that Xfinity is not communicating with the modem, not the modem What brand router do you have? That can be another weak link. In my experience, you get what you pay for with routers. Another complexity is running a VPN. If you have the UDI portal, you can access the eisy without a vpn and without opening ports in your router. Based on what's written, I'm most suspicious of the VPN. How is the VPN endpoint set up in the remote house, what is hosting it?

How old is the unit? I could be that the SD card, where all of the automations are stored, has become unseated or is going bad. Check the below link to docs on this topic. You can first use the docs to find where the sd card is located, take it out (994 unplugged). Rub over the contacts with an eraser, wipe with rubbing alcohol, dry, reinsert and try again. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

To isolate which it is, you can try temporarily adding a 3rd nearby device to the scene as a responder. Switch the SWL - What happens, does the new device also come on? If the new nearby test device comes on, it's the keypad. Keypads can 'lose their way' after long periods of use. If updating the scene or restore device didn't work, factory reset it and restore device.

It made sense to me, I take it as a band-aid-ish way to get around the triac dimmers causing flickering bulbs when full on. I do have a lot of N-ways, and some never get dimmed so I moved them over to on offs rather than trying this. I've been in the house +3 years, there are a ton of led can lights that continue to work so not replacing. I'm using the paddle PS01, but it has the same flags The head scratcher for me is Disable RF? Why? The problem I've had is that they can come from the factory with that turned on. Of course the first one I ran into is as far away from the panel across the house, as many wire feet as you can get..... with plenty of dual band in the area and it was working flaky. I finally looked the flags to see that turned on. Had my out-of-body experiece, changed it and pressed the button. That was over 2 years ago and its been fine.

Eisy and I think policy allow you to add the newer insteon i3 products. If switches die and/or you want to add i3 devices, their not fully supported in the 994.

To follow up @xlurkr 's caution... Almost everything is triggered, like a garage door that might be on an io-linc, sprinklers, etc The Almost part: In a test I did a couple of years ago, iox ALL ON / ALL OFF buttons did not turn off i3 devices as Insteon removed the ALL ON/OFF response based on the dreaded random occurrences. If you have any of those, they won't respond. I have to assume what you're asking for would call that feature on the buttons of java iox. Depending how much link count is a premium in your PLM, creating a scene with specific participants would be the way to go.

Even with new i3 paddles there can be flicker. Using on/off where dimming is not needed makes the problem go away. We have a master bath where I simplified multiple on off switches with multiple Insteon switches. Dimming is never used, so when they flickered, on/off fixed it. If you have the eisy you could use the new i3 paddles. The advantage of i3 paddle is that you can configure it on-the-fly to dimmer or on/off... it does both.

That's an oldy, single band. I had several them at my last house, one at the far reaches of my electrical system. They get flaky after time or power events like brown/black outs Try a restore device If that doesn't work, factory reset and and restore device

I have 2 of these, used this time of year for Christmas lights which they do fine. They are single band so their location closer to our electrical panel is helpful. If you're using them with a remote, the signal trip is from the closest dualband device and then powerline from there to the old lamplinc. they can be used like my example where you can be sure of how signals will reach it, unlike dual band devices that can go almost anywhere. Also note that Insteon things that old can use a factory reset and restore device every so oftern

Not 100% sure of the question. They can be added on the linking menu of iox. They are single band, power line only devices so may have signal flakiness problems of their own. You can search google for the device name + "manual pdf" and see what the specs are. I believe all low voltage.

There's 2 starting diagnostic paths, I'd start with the easiest Factory rest and restore each individually. Test again. This is relatively easy to try. The writeup makes it sound like they've been in there a while, and I can't imagine how wiring would cause that.. I suppose it's possible.... But- if it didn't do it before and started now, a wiring problem seems unlikely. I've had Insteon switches installed for years and sometimes they "lose it" and need to be reprogrammed. Little is lost if this path is wrong If that didn't do it, turn on the event viewer level 3, and do recreates to an ordered script (what you wrote above) so it can be compared to the event viewer results. Post it back here If both of those yield nothing, then its time to dig them out of the wall

Sounds to me like the PLM signals are strong enough to make it out. The X10 device's signal is not strong enough to make it back to the PLM. The keypad is x10 rf, correct? If so, it has a plug in receiver. Plug that in to an outlet closer to the PLM and retest

There's the TimeData plugin that does just that and more. I use it for a number of related functions

The program will run as long as the variable is 1. If you set it to 1 when you leave town for a period longer than one day, then you'll eventually get a battery notice which will be incorrect info. That program logic is designed for Insteon wireless sensors that have a 24 hour heartbeat node. Another way to do it (pseudo code), which also depends on how you use the backdoor: If triggerlinc is switches on or Triggerlinc is switched of Then Wait 24 hours Send notification This way looks for the triggerlinc to activate at all and not dependent on variable logic. If there is some activity it has battery. Same problem though, that if you close the door and leave (or don't use the door for 24 hours) it will send the notifcation

Assumes the door gets unarmed once a day... I'm thinking trips, vacations

Check this in iox: Tools/Diagnostics/PLM Info If it does not not say Connected, pull the plug in the eisy and plug it back in. I had this happend when I first set up my eisy and also after one upgrade. Both times that fixed it

It's designed to support a conference room like wall switch support for something like a retractable projection screen where manually throwing the switch runs the screen/shade all the way in either direction. The single iox node is treated the same. There's a calibration procedure in the manual where you to teach the micro-module how long to engage for up and down. After that "On" operates the contacts long enough for up, and "Off" does the some for down. There are other modes defined as well