paulbates

Even with new i3 paddles there can be flicker. Using on/off where dimming is not needed makes the problem go away. We have a master bath where I simplified multiple on off switches with multiple Insteon switches. Dimming is never used, so when they flickered, on/off fixed it. If you have the eisy you could use the new i3 paddles. The advantage of i3 paddle is that you can configure it on-the-fly to dimmer or on/off... it does both.

That's an oldy, single band. I had several them at my last house, one at the far reaches of my electrical system. They get flaky after time or power events like brown/black outs Try a restore device If that doesn't work, factory reset and and restore device

I have 2 of these, used this time of year for Christmas lights which they do fine. They are single band so their location closer to our electrical panel is helpful. If you're using them with a remote, the signal trip is from the closest dualband device and then powerline from there to the old lamplinc. they can be used like my example where you can be sure of how signals will reach it, unlike dual band devices that can go almost anywhere. Also note that Insteon things that old can use a factory reset and restore device every so oftern

Not 100% sure of the question. They can be added on the linking menu of iox. They are single band, power line only devices so may have signal flakiness problems of their own. You can search google for the device name + "manual pdf" and see what the specs are. I believe all low voltage.

There's 2 starting diagnostic paths, I'd start with the easiest Factory rest and restore each individually. Test again. This is relatively easy to try. The writeup makes it sound like they've been in there a while, and I can't imagine how wiring would cause that.. I suppose it's possible.... But- if it didn't do it before and started now, a wiring problem seems unlikely. I've had Insteon switches installed for years and sometimes they "lose it" and need to be reprogrammed. Little is lost if this path is wrong If that didn't do it, turn on the event viewer level 3, and do recreates to an ordered script (what you wrote above) so it can be compared to the event viewer results. Post it back here If both of those yield nothing, then its time to dig them out of the wall

Sounds to me like the PLM signals are strong enough to make it out. The X10 device's signal is not strong enough to make it back to the PLM. The keypad is x10 rf, correct? If so, it has a plug in receiver. Plug that in to an outlet closer to the PLM and retest

There's the TimeData plugin that does just that and more. I use it for a number of related functions

The program will run as long as the variable is 1. If you set it to 1 when you leave town for a period longer than one day, then you'll eventually get a battery notice which will be incorrect info. That program logic is designed for Insteon wireless sensors that have a 24 hour heartbeat node. Another way to do it (pseudo code), which also depends on how you use the backdoor: If triggerlinc is switches on or Triggerlinc is switched of Then Wait 24 hours Send notification This way looks for the triggerlinc to activate at all and not dependent on variable logic. If there is some activity it has battery. Same problem though, that if you close the door and leave (or don't use the door for 24 hours) it will send the notifcation

Assumes the door gets unarmed once a day... I'm thinking trips, vacations

Check this in iox: Tools/Diagnostics/PLM Info If it does not not say Connected, pull the plug in the eisy and plug it back in. I had this happend when I first set up my eisy and also after one upgrade. Both times that fixed it

It's designed to support a conference room like wall switch support for something like a retractable projection screen where manually throwing the switch runs the screen/shade all the way in either direction. The single iox node is treated the same. There's a calibration procedure in the manual where you to teach the micro-module how long to engage for up and down. After that "On" operates the contacts long enough for up, and "Off" does the some for down. There are other modes defined as well

Can you shoot a picture of the Insteon address on the sticker on the device? A number of us have run into this digit confusion before and maybe can help translate by seeing it

Hoping that means i3 capable.

At a Insteon call early in the year or late last year, it was announced that the upgraded PLM was coming out "in summer of this year" 25. Summer came and went. One of our members, I think Brian H, asked them recently if it was coming and told no.

I've had multiple of the older on/offs at my last house for over 10 years in southeast Michigan.. -20 to 100 degrees I installed the i3 outlet, the one at your link, 2 years ago. It runs our patio gazebo lights year round and a home made drip sprinkler in the summer. Same weather and no problems with it. A few things The outside jboxes can be smaller or crowded, especially with an older home I recommend a cover box to screw in where a smaller outdoor faceplate would be so the wires and everything are covered. Caulk the edges of the plate cover and the house. I lost an i3 outlet because I didn't get a good enough cover.. the grill was right in front of it and water from rain splashed right in. Water was dripping out of the sockets when I removed it.... not insteon's fault. These are not GFIC. If there is another GFIC outlet, it needs to be between the Insteon outlet and the electrical panel. Wire it up and press the test botton on the GFIC. If if power remains at the insteon outlet, replace the breaker the outlet leads to with a GFIC breaker.

You can delete the switch from the ISY and re-add it. Caveats are: if the switch is in scenes, in which case the switch will need to be re-added to the scene(s). Likely you'll have to go back to iox programs that referenced the original switch and re-add it if necessary Also, another method of copying the file. isy backups are bunch of zipped folders which follow the path of the file in question here. The individual file could be copied out of the backup and moved to the eisy. Here are high level directions (off the top of my head): Take a copy of a backup file, open it in a zip app and navigate to the file location Copy/unzip the file to the local storage of the machine you're restoring SSH into the eisy, use that or SCP, etc to copy the file to the right location in the eisy Reboot the eisy

You'll need to define a variable that has a precision (Prec column) of 4 (4 digits to the right of the decimal) to copy the value from the device into, then do these iox 'Then' statements: Variable = Emporia Node (kw) Variable = Variable * 1000 (This converts kW to W) That should give you the watts value to take action in other iox conditional statements. ** Remember to use the eISY variable type of State (State Tab) with a Precision of 4, if you plan to use the variable for iox If statements

I made a similar post. I shut off all notifications from the app as most of mine come through the notification plugin. Had difficulty determining which of the 3 notifications was doing it, but shutting them all off stopped them coming (at ~3am) until there is a way to limit it.

The error means that the ISY's definition file for that switch, /FILES/CONF/50B976.REC, has become corrupted or otherwise unreadable by iox, so it does not have definition/reference for it on your system. Likely nothing is wrong with the switch. If you have an ISY with an SD card for its hard drive, likely that's going bad. If you have an eisy, something happened to that that file and it needs to be replaced, by a recent restore if you have it.

Is this with an eisy, it sounds like an isy problem? It looks be the sd card if going bad. You can remove it and try running an eraser over the contacts and cleaning with alcohol. If you search the forums for SD card you should find more detailed info. Also it may be time to replace the SD card

This happened to me when I first set up my eisy. Let it set for another day and it should act as you're expecting

I don't, the one I use triggers on being in or out of a certain consumption amount. But I think the results are about runtime and an approximate power consumption per unit of time. Is the ventilator multi-speed? If it's single speed you should be able to calc the number by measuring steady-state power usage from outlet and then multiplying it out with minutes (or seconds) of runtime, based on the program model above.

One thing to note about the Yolink wireless sensors, at least the 8003, is that they don't instantly update. I have one that checks humidity rise in my master bath shower to turn on the fan. The display on the unit will show the humidity going up, but it can be anywhere from almost instant to 7 - 10 minutes before the Sensor tells the hub to tell the plugin that it's working. That's not the case with the yolink outlet, it's usually a second or 2 from the dryer getting turned on to the fan getting switched on.

I've seen this with older Insteon device that have been in service for years. I could have a working virtual circuit of Insteon devices in a scene.. but if I went to add or change something in the scene, that device would always have the green 0101 next to it, meaning it would not take updates.

I do that with Xfinity/Comcast. I have my own cable modem and a router with network management features including a DHCP assignment table.