paulbates

The event viewer, set to level 3, is different than the log and will show detailed Insteon traffic (or lack of it) to help figure out what's going on. Tools->Diagnostics->Event Viewer ... set to level 3 at the bottom and repeat your tests, post that back here by Saving the Log to File with a description of what part you were doing each test Did you try the "restore device" on one of the problem devices?

Without event viewer info, there is something that might/might not work: One at a time, right click on each Device in iox and select restore device. This possibly could solve one of the things it could be

This is how I do it Ring Battery - [ID 0003][Parent 0038] If 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 25% Or 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 20% Or 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 15% Then Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover Battery' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Normal Format=None Sound=Vibrate Only Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 17 Notification ID (ID=17) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Questions You mention the UDM app, but its also true on iox? You're using the PLM you had on your ISY? I would start with the event viewer in level 3 and repeat steps that fail, like opening the garage and repost.

Insteon makes micromodules, on/off and dimmer, that embed in fixtures and can be remotely controlled like any Insteon switch. Though its for a slightly different purpose, I use one for our kitchen exhaust hood and lights. You'll probably have to take apart part of the hood to install it.

It's worth a try but that's pretty far for a single band signal. However, if you are saying that there are other devices, likely dual band, working in the garage.... it's likely one circuit and the dual band devices are providing a bridge to that area. I know that's not a 100% clear answer, but it's these long distance fringes that put any of these powerline technologies to the test. I would guess that yolink would cover that easily. I don't know if you have one of the old boxy 1st generation lamplincs.. they are powerline only. I still have them for my christmas lights. If you have one, plug it in the garage and see of you can access it from the isy in the house

These are the steps. Search amazon for garage door contact sensor that you like. I never used the kit but followed the directions Per my first response in this thread, the distance does matter as the iolinc is powerline only.

In my experience, sometimes older Insteon devices "lose it" after: long periods of use, brown outs, or being farthest away on the power line .... or combos of those. Glad it's working

I use switched for the exact same application. The reality is that that method shouldn't matter. A restore device is easy to do to eliminate it as a culprit, and won't hurt Turn on the event view level 3 and repeat, what do you see

I've watched yolink from afar on the forums and made the leap a few months ago. It has a lot going for it Solid technical & rf solution - powerful star network that works A very good complement for Insteon (each is good at something the other isn't) not really that expensive A complete pg3x plugin that works Designed to be integrated with other HA / myq syndrome immune It currently does not have a local api, but personally I'm less worried about that versus my Venstar days 10 years ago. I haven't tried, but would guess you could do it by having Alexa setting a variable or calling a program, and the program handling the door operation through the plugin

Did you use the finger controller? That's ingenious and is how I would to implement it... myq is a "preexisting condition" at my new-to-me house.

Option 1. You can use an iolinc, I did for + 10 years at my old house. It and associated keypad went with the house when I sold it last summer. This solution depends on how far away, "far away" is. You'll see advice from very knowledgeable folks here to not use iolincs for this type of application, which is worth considering, but I never had a problem with it, even in our -20 winters +100 summers here. It's native to eisy as an Insteon device. Option 2: Yolink. I just started using yolink for other purposes, not GDO. It's a great, reliable long range radio (1/4 mile) solution if you're thinking of adding their capabilities. They have some ingenious gadgets to integrate current wall mounted GDO opener switches and other options. There's a great, supported eisy PG3x plugin. If I decide to automate GDO at my new house, I'll go this route. You'll need a yolink hub and plugin in addition to the devices you pick.

It's not mentioned in the write-up specifically: I was surprised to find that there are 6 different behaviors/actions to the eisy's power button and coming from the old school PC days, they were not intuitive. I printed a small sheet I keep near the eisy in case I need it. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/Eisy:User_Guide#Multi_Function_Button

iox has 2 programming methods in the IF drop down: "Control" - which responds at the exact moment the device is activated locally "Status" - What is the devices state at any one point in time. You want to use "Status"

A quick thing to try is unplugging the PLM for 10 seconds and replugging. If things go back to normal, it likely confirms the bad PLM theory. It may work for a while, and the begin acting flaky again... a sign to get another one on order. FWIW 8 years puts its age in a time when the not-so-good capacitors were used

So there's are a couple of possibilities The switches don't have the link for the new PLM - That was the test I just asked you to do. There's noise preventing the switches messages to get back to the PLM/ISY Is there a way to remove all potential noisemakers temporarily (power strips, etc) and retest?

Pick one switch that's not working, right-click on it and select "Restore Device". Does that switch work after doing that?

Good point and it's gotten worse... Went through this recently with the center octet of the insteon address was 8B.. those 2 are very close looking and I had to really put my face in it to see where I got it wrong

Thanks Like any technical solution, I have to adjust to their way of doing things and support model. I followed the directions for getting on discord so I could follow along, but that didn't happen. I was told to contact their tech support when I needed help. It's great, they answer quickly. But in asking local api questions relative to hub 3.. I didn't get an answer other than that capability is targeted for sometime this year.

The below thread covers this topic. The USB PLM will generally be preferrable if you are starting over with a new PLM and it's less than 15 feet from your eisy Its much less work to migrate the existing one, if its working

Link management, "Start Linking" at the top. Press set button. If/when it shows up on the list, finish linking

I'm with you in that I decided a few months ago to go with the current hub. I'm not interested in the battery or network backup... also the TTS capability of the current hub does not exist on the new one. Its for a specific market I'm sure yolink has. There were those here interested in it so I thought I would post for them. But now @dwengrovitz pointed out that the store content hasn't changed to available even though the email went out. I'm having a little regret over having posted this....

I added myself to the email alert for product availability, and got this earlier today. Maybe the notification email beat the content update on their store

Some questions, to try in this order: Does it behave as a switch other than not connecting? Backlight and keys light up, beeps appropriately when pressed? Controls the intended load locally, if it has one? There are 2 ways to link, 1 is typing in the switches Insteon address, the other it pressing the set button and letting the PLM discover it... did you try both of those? Do you have a way to try it somewhere else than intended location to eliminate problems there? I've used a utility plug from the hardware store with screw terminals. Screw hot and neutral carefully to that, cap the other leads and plug it in somewhere convenient to physically support it, also where a plug in module also works so you know Insteon traffic makes it there.

Ordering a new one is best. The short recovery from a reset/restore is Insteon end-of-life behavior in my experience.