paulbates

Ok, you're within spec then. Doing the math on the watts of the bulb, it would have been a factor if they were multi-ganged

There's this obscure comment down in that (most other dimmer) switchlinc's manual. If you've side-by-side double ganged the switch, the rating for the switch drops significantly. If there are 3 in a row its really low. If your's is multi-ganged, it may have worked at one time but probably over time lead to the the failure of the switch

To the other's point, the bulbs need to be eliminated as the culprit. Maybe something happened to them based on the old keypad experience Can you remove 3 of the bulbs and retest? Do have a different type of bulb to replace the one bulb with and retest?

I've used the RCS X10, Insteon, Venstar Color touch and currently ecobee. For those last 2: Venstar: Pluses: Very configurable at the HVAC level. At my last house had 2 and could configure each one based on how the different parts of the house responded decent app Really good remote configuration via their sky port cloud web app. Really impressive 100% local API. Venstar could go out of business tomorrow. You'd lose the app and the website, but local control from the stat or ISY would work It has battery power remote temp sensors that will let you average control across different areas of the house. I found that a great compromise compared to the surgery of converting your system to duct control. Good humidity handling. Can be configured to call for humidity when heat is not running. I plumbed my humidifiers for hot water and it really helped my last house built in the 50's with 2 furnaces. I also had ISY programs to step the humidity down in response to really cold outdoor temps Minuses: The very configurable part has a downside. It's really technical and have to take notes and backup all the stuff configured with an SD card. I will say once i got it right, I kept the SD cards in the desk and forgot about it. Remotes are big and a PITA to setup and get going. Techy, less responsive touch screen. Drove my late wife nuts. Once all set up it was good that became less necessary and could use the app. But walking up to it to use can be intimidating Ecobee Pluses: Easy to set up and install. It actually looks at the wires you plug in with software to verify the setup. Contrasts with Venstar in that it does a lot on its own, humidity etc Has a small temp/humidity remote and does averaging automatically. MUCH easier to install and get going than the Venstar remotes, smaller, less intrusive package. Looks good. Relatively easy for family/guests to walk up and change mode and temps Can connect to your power utility. I don't do that, but I did enter my utility's demand schedule. When I'm using AC, it cools off a little more before the start, and then lets it go up a few degrees during the schedule and then back to normal. It does save a little and my wife doesn't notice it Has "social" features much like ring where your house is ranked against others in the area (which I find silly and don't use that) Minuses Cloud dependent. If ecobee goes under, I believe it still will be a stat but many enhanced features and the app are remote api dependent and will stop. I think it will be a stat because mine will work even internet is not there Though not as "techy" as the Venstar, the features in the app are not as intuitive I like. Simple example, everytime I go out of town and use vacation mode, I stumble around to find the feature. Summary: Both Venstar and Ecobee are great solutions with the eisy. I've found I like the ecobee more as it does more automatically and less eisy programming. I have the eisy plugin and use it mostly for fan control to compliment venting for things like detecting showers in the master bath and after the second floor dryer after a cycle ends. I also have networked smoke co detectors and I shut all fans and HVAC down if one goes off.

Whiny (me) alert: My UD Mobile started telling me every morning around 3am that there is an upgrade available. I don't think that's necessary. I count on UD Mobile to tell me when something is going on with my eisy.. I believe this one is a System Notification and my only choice is shut them all off, which includes occasional important things I do want. This is definitely a low priority request.. If a version comes out, tell me once as in the past. I'll leave it in the notification pile until I do something or it's replaced with a newer release.

It's been a long time since I've worked with one of those... But a general fix is, factory reset it and restore device. Insteon things that run for a long time sometimes need a kick in the side

There's multiple tabs under the iox programs tab. One of them shows you details like last start and end time of the programs. That won't help right now if you've deleted it, but will help when starting over with another program

Long thread... but if it only happens when the switch is off, it's pointing to the switch. Some older insteon switches have the ability to receive and send x10. Insteon switches can also be "confused" after long periods (years) of operation. I'd try this if it wasn't in all of the other great suggesitons: Turn the switch off and confirm the messages continue to come Pull the air gap tab out on the bottom of the switch.. did the errors stop? If Yes.. Factory reset the switch and do a restore device Test again

I have a suggested approach based on me having copied web pages onto my ISY994i when I used Benoit's HAD (Home Automation Dashboard). Had some notes I kept, but it was a lot of hair ago. Also I had to move a corrupted file back on my ISY at some point in time This caveat is to say I haven't had a 994 in a long time and haven't used PUTTY or a telnet client in years. So some info and things to try but I'm not sure this will work exactly: On the SD card, navigate to the /CONF directory. Look for files named programs.* Ideally: programs.xml programs.ndx programs.bak (if present) These contain your ISY program definitions. Install Putty Telnet on your PC Connect via putty to your ISY ip address via port 23 Look and see if program files are there by entering: ls /CONF Confirm if this is there: programs.xml Use a file transfer tool that supports Telnet file copy (e.g., pscp if using PuTTY or scp if SSH is enabled). Copy the programs.xml and programs.ndx from your PC’s SD card to the ISY’s /CONF directory: Fuzzy on this part, maybe someone else can fill in. The DOS file reference SDCARD will be your name for the SD Card pscp C:\SDCARD\CONF\programs.xml admin@[ISY_IP_ADDRESS]:/CONF/programs.xml pscp C:\SDCARD\CONF\programs.ndx admin@[ISY_IP_ADDRESS]:/CONF/programs.ndx A few last caveats If I have the above putty/scp syntax wrong, there will be documentation on the web about putty or scp and moving files I'm not sure how the UUID plays with these files, but let's see if you can get any where with the above. If the files on the card are corrupted, the ISY probably is not restoring them for that reason and 'force copying' them using the above steps will likely give unpredictable results. Again this is not step by step but gets you something to look at and try

I had an 8 key where the middle 4 buttons would all blink in unison, randomly, like 4 times. No log entries, no event manager events. No advanced key pad settings, just linked to lights with scenes. I'd be sitting in the room and notice it. Very rare but odd. Fortunately my wife never noticed it. While I had other keypads that after long periods would sometimes need to be factory reset, never figured out the "4 button blink" on 🤪

Are the programs that control the lights in a single folder? You could disable that folder for the night by putting a condition on it that can't be met. I did something similar for Halloween when I wasn't able participate. The caveat is if any of the lights are motion sensor activated by a scene. I had a Insteon MS for my driveway flood lights and I would take down at those times.

How often is it happening? Keypads are one of insteon's most complex products. Sometimes mine needed a kick in the pants: In addition to the restore, I'd factory reset it and then restore device again

Yes this happened earlier this year. I only use my door bell as a motion sensor and it doesn't get tripped often but I wanted front lights to come on if I pull in the driveway after they have been turned off. I had the version prior to 1.2.6 and upgraded, re-authenticated and it's been fine. @oberkc Kind of a guess, but pull the battery out of the ring device. Restart the plugin and then plug the battery back in, then re-test. (Eg, maybe the device itself got messed up)

The leak sensor's manual indicates the following:

I'm not sure why the designers thought is was necessary, but there is one node for a dry state and one for a wet state... and they are always the opposite of each other. There's also one for the heartbeat. Typically wet and dry are both labled so that leaves the heartbeat. I'm taking a guess that your naming scheme "overran" the amount of space for the wet/dry names, but it seems wet and dry should both fit (?) Unless someone else has a better idea, you might have to delete it from the ISY and re-add it without renaming... both the wet and dry names should be there. Then rename them once you know which is which

In iox, you right click on the device and pick restore device

Arrows are how the ISY indicates a contact device like an alarm sensor or door strike. A input sensor points to the right and a contact output points left. It is normal.

I think it's a meaningful and relatively inexpensive type of insurance of expensive electronic assets. Many electronics, not just Insteon, can be damaged by surges in the powerline base on black/brown-out & re-power or lightening strikes. You can buy them at the hardware store. I've installed my own but you can also have an electrician do it. While it does not provide a guarantee, I think it protects an expensive home automation installation from uncontrollable events. The Intermatic one I installed, many years ago, came with a limited warranty if you submitted the paperwork.

If you scroll through the top of this Hue part of the forum, there are related posts and things to try

Based on your diagnostic steps, which look correct to me, this is the logical conclusion. 2 more thoughts: Did you replace the light bulb itself? Since the load key is misbehaving, this doesn't seem reasonable A more remote possibility is that the wiring / wire nut didn't like what happened and needs to be looked at. You're on your way there because of switch replacement. Again with the key misbehaving it doesn't seem reasonable.

A common thread has been safari, as the browser, giving that error. It's a reason I haven't ventured in yet.

I have 3 leak sensors that cover my hot water tank, sump pump area and well. I have them set up 3 ways 1- There are linked via a scene to an Insteon chime module in the house so it "screams" if any of them go off 2- I have a program that sends a specific notification for each one. I use the paid for notification plugin and get the notifications via push over, but you can do email, text etc Well - Wet - [ID 0014][Parent 000E] If 'Leak Sensors / Well Wet' is switched On Then Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover alerts' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Emergency Sound=Siren Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 7 Notification ID (ID=7) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') 3- I also have a program that tracks the once-a-day heartbeat message from the leak sensor. If it stops coming, the leak sensor battery is dead and I want to know: Well Heartbeat - [ID 0010][Parent 0032] If 'Leak Sensors / Leak Sensor Battery / Well Heartbeat' is switched On Or 'Leak Sensors / Leak Sensor Battery / Well Heartbeat' is switched Off Then Wait 25 hours Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover warnmsg' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Normal Sound=Vibrate Only Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 4 Notification ID (ID=4) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The 25 hour wait is because if the message comes once a day, the program restarts. If the battery dies it doesn't send an

Also, it will work better, if they are Insteon switches, if you put the lights in a scene and turn the single scene on and off. When you have 4 back-to-back Insteon commands, the Insteon traffic for them is colliding and affecting some of them not going on. That doesn't happen with a scene It also turns them all on / off simultaneously which I like better, and not "popcorn" lights

If you have the USB model (ends in a U), it will plug right into eisy. If you have a serial (ends with an S), you need to buy the serial to USB adapter from UDI when you buy the eisy. If is not HW version 2.4 (or higher, there's a sticker on it), I'd consider replacing it as it comes from a time when cheaper capacitors were used and they are notorious for failing. If it's 2.4 (or greater) moving it over will save some time in not having to update your Insteon network to be programmed for a new PLM.