paulbates

Another option is yolink / yosmart. They make a thermostat and security products, and dependable range is their strong suit. There is an actively developed plugin for the eisy that i use for other applications. If I had a quarter mile away outbuilding, I would be giving it a look. They are really responsive to requests about product use pre and post sale.

Udi sells eisy an integrated product / appliance, the code is not open source and not available for compiling or as an image

The ISY's use of the network is very limited (doesn't stream) and only connects at 100mb, so an ET / WIFI bridge should work fine. Like most things network, you'll get what you pay for, eg get a highly rated product vs cheapest. Other ideas: If he has some kind of cable service providing streaming services to his tv vs logging the tv in directly, the boxes providing the streaming to the tv sometimes have ET ports in the back I usually have my previous router hanging around after I upgrade. Some routers can be configured in bridge mode: You log the router into the campus wifi, and plug the ISY in to one of its ET ports.

I would go that route if you're running, and you can live with it the next few days

Wondering if it's a problem with iox on your pc itself. Before going the factory reset route, try clearing the java cache and re-installing iox.

Some migration behavior problems can be expected with programs. Try opening and saving programs that you are having problems with and/or have a yellow icon Also, I would close and restart iox, and if that doesn't help, unplug and replug the eisy, that might help with program migration behavior problems as well

Like Z-Wave, Zigbee will be a journey rather than a destination ... More manufacturers will make more new products continuously ... and do new and unexpected things with the standard. Integrators like UDI will do their best to keep up.

I would pull the plug on the eisy, plug back in

Yes and no... Yes, the eisy is able to support Zigbee. And, no, not every device is necessarily supported. You can do a search just in this thread for the one you're interested in, and you can ask UDI to consider adding support for it if you don't find it Also, add the specifics in your post here, maybe someone has it working already

The event viewer, set to level 3, is different than the log and will show detailed Insteon traffic (or lack of it) to help figure out what's going on. Tools->Diagnostics->Event Viewer ... set to level 3 at the bottom and repeat your tests, post that back here by Saving the Log to File with a description of what part you were doing each test Did you try the "restore device" on one of the problem devices?

Without event viewer info, there is something that might/might not work: One at a time, right click on each Device in iox and select restore device. This possibly could solve one of the things it could be

This is how I do it Ring Battery - [ID 0003][Parent 0038] If 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 25% Or 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 20% Or 'Lighting Premise / Ring - Front Door' Battery life is 15% Then Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover Battery' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Normal Format=None Sound=Vibrate Only Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 17 Notification ID (ID=17) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Questions You mention the UDM app, but its also true on iox? You're using the PLM you had on your ISY? I would start with the event viewer in level 3 and repeat steps that fail, like opening the garage and repost.

Insteon makes micromodules, on/off and dimmer, that embed in fixtures and can be remotely controlled like any Insteon switch. Though its for a slightly different purpose, I use one for our kitchen exhaust hood and lights. You'll probably have to take apart part of the hood to install it.

It's worth a try but that's pretty far for a single band signal. However, if you are saying that there are other devices, likely dual band, working in the garage.... it's likely one circuit and the dual band devices are providing a bridge to that area. I know that's not a 100% clear answer, but it's these long distance fringes that put any of these powerline technologies to the test. I would guess that yolink would cover that easily. I don't know if you have one of the old boxy 1st generation lamplincs.. they are powerline only. I still have them for my christmas lights. If you have one, plug it in the garage and see of you can access it from the isy in the house

These are the steps. Search amazon for garage door contact sensor that you like. I never used the kit but followed the directions Per my first response in this thread, the distance does matter as the iolinc is powerline only.

In my experience, sometimes older Insteon devices "lose it" after: long periods of use, brown outs, or being farthest away on the power line .... or combos of those. Glad it's working

I use switched for the exact same application. The reality is that that method shouldn't matter. A restore device is easy to do to eliminate it as a culprit, and won't hurt Turn on the event view level 3 and repeat, what do you see

Ok.. That's new info. You can manually activate the switch on and off using the AC, but you have a program that stopped working just for the off? If so, can you post it?

I've watched yolink from afar on the forums and made the leap a few months ago. It has a lot going for it Solid technical & rf solution - powerful star network that works A very good complement for Insteon (each is good at something the other isn't) not really that expensive A complete pg3x plugin that works Designed to be integrated with other HA / myq syndrome immune It currently does not have a local api, but personally I'm less worried about that versus my Venstar days 10 years ago. I haven't tried, but would guess you could do it by having Alexa setting a variable or calling a program, and the program handling the door operation through the plugin

Did you use the finger controller? That's ingenious and is how I would to implement it... myq is a "preexisting condition" at my new-to-me house.

I forgot about the XPNR wire in noise filters. I used these on low voltage lighting transformers with success. They are a little cheaper, and while a little big, I had luck wiring them into the box / fixture https://www.x10.com/products/xpnr

Which makes it more susceptible to the theorized problem... there's no rf to potentially get around it. An Insteon filterlinc is an option if it's a plug the fixture in. If not, I believe you can still get the X10 XPF wire in filter between the fixture and the switch would curb the noise

That's a theory that needs to be proven... is it a light bulb that you can swap with another type to see what happens?

On working and off not is usually the symptom of a noisy load... The on powers the noisy load and blocks the offs Did you replace the light recently?