paulbates

Mark The video shows the PLM links table, and is queried from the PLM. I wanted to see what the contents of the ISY Links table, which is the db of links the ISY keeps based on the devices you add to it. Its used to build the PLM links table that the insteon network uses. One of your options is doing a restore PLM from that db, but before asking you to try it, given the size of your network, I wondered what the master db in the ISY looks like. It doesn't make sense that everything seems to be working both ISY to Insteon device, and Insteon device to ISY, with the table that small. Seeing what the ISY has would be a helpful next step PAul

Mark What's the report from the 'show ISY links' look like? Paul

Mark- I've never run it with event viewer, but I don't think that should be a problem. Are all insteon devices working, to the best of your knowledge, if you issue a command to a sampling of devices from the admin console, they all respond as expected? If you go to those devices, and turn them on and off, the admin console is updated? If yes, then, I would try unplugging the ISY and and PLM. Plugin the plm, wait 10 seconds, then the ISY, and try the 'Show PLM Links Table' again If no, then its potentially more difficult.. let's discuss Paul

Here are 2 other things to try Put the device in linking mode and use the 'Start linking' method of adding the device to the ISY. I've had a couple of stubborn devices that would only add that way. No idea why, but it worked Try a factory reset of the device (as opposed to air-gapping) and try adding again. Paul

Another factor, outside of load matching, is the fact that the on/off versions make a definitive 'click' when the A/On button is turned on or off. I have my outside floodlights all responding to A. When the MS activates the outside lights, they all click- even though none of the keypads are actually controlling the load. I've turned that into a positive, its a way to know that something is moving around in an area that's not directly visible. The on/offs were the earliest dualband keypads available, that's why i initially got them But some may not like it. If the switches are near a table, and people are sitting there, it will get noticed. Not as bad as the X10 stuff was, but noticeable. Dimmers will be completely silent. Paul

Mark I have a couple of big scenes that turn many lights on and off, as well as a few smaller ones in groups as you describe. I don't add devices often enough that the time it takes to wait to add to the big scene really matter. I also have some smaller groups to control specific things, eg, 1 scene to turn on 4 outletlincs associated with yard and holiday lights. I also have a number of lights and keypad keys connected to a "Goodnight" scene. That's handy, and spouse approved! I keep the big scenes as I prefer to push as much work as practical to the Insteon network, and prefer to see all outside lights and lamps go on and off together. If you want to know where you are with number of links, run Tools/Diagnotics/Show PLM links table. Click Start, let it run till it quits scrolling. You can hit the count button to get the link count to compare (Its one more than the number of links on the list because the list starts with 0). I think the published link count for the 2314PLM is 1000 links possible, probably 800 is a reasonable operational high water mark. Paul

That's correct. I do the same with Furnace/Air/humidify/fan and sprinkler control & reporting. I've only used the mini remote for on/off. Another way is us "Control" and catch it in the act. You probably won't see some of these, like 'Fade' or 'Fast on' normally. You don't have to code for the ones that you don't use. Here are the possibilities: Paul

Wow. I've had mine for 2 years. It came charged and I charged it once this spring. I had an X10 key chain remote I replaced it with, I didn't change its battery that frequently either. Paul

That's an interesting idea! However 5000 seems like a lot. If you averaged 4 presses a day, that would be 1250 days or 3.5 years. Mine doesn't make it over a year. The manual says 9 - 12 months per charge. Maybe start with 1000 and then see how long the charge takes. The manual says the charge should take an hour.. so use that as a factor to increase or decrease the count. e.g.. if it takes the full hour, lower the count and give it some room. If it takes half an hour, up it to 2500. I would leave extra room so you're definitely charging before it runs out. Maybe its pressed a lot more than 4 times a day.. measure that and adjust the program accordingly. Also, remember to use the "init to" function in your program after incrementing the variable you're counting with. Otherwise, the ISY will lose its memory of the count if you reboot or have a power outage Paul

Hi- Unfortunately that product does not provide battery alerts. You have to keep track on a calendar and keep it charged regularly. I have one in our bed room for my wife to use for the attic fan, its the same thing. I charge it in the spring and it lasts the year. I know its "old school", but I have a spreadsheet for battery powered HA items and charge/change them on a schedule and not wait for an indicator to come on, Charging the remote is on that list. I've had fewer problems with Insteon battery powered devices approaching it that way. Paul

In Insteon, when 2 or more devices are controlling each other, a scene has been created. You are actually creating and using scenes when you use the instructions that come in the box with the devices to link them. That manual process creates references between of participants you linked to use as part of the scene. This is how insteon knows how to coordinate activity between multiple devices. However, the ISY was not part of that manual link creation process using the out of the box instructions, and does not know to respond / acknowledge the new scene you created via manual linking. To say it another way, its working as designed. Your choices are: Continue to manually create scenes with the individual devices using the out of the box instructions that came with the devices and have the ISY continue to not know about it and manually query to discover state. ...or.. Remove the manually created scenes and create them with the ISY. The switches will respond to the remote just like they do now. The only difference is that the ISY will be a participant in the scene and aware of the changes, which is what you want. It takes just moments to create the scene with the ISY. I find it easier to use the ISY than manually link.

Small world! Next week, it will be 25 years for me.

Hi Tom Each EZflora has 8 zones maximum, so yes 2 ezfloras are needed for your application. I wired mine into the existing rainbird controller with a length of sprinkler wire from a sprinkler supply store. That made it a little easier, no wiring changes to the existing system. So I don't have detailed instructions per se... but I wired zone 1 on the old controller to zone 1 on the ezflora with the new length of sprinkler wire, zone 2 to zone 2, etc. Then write programs. Basic programs to run the system are fairly easy: turn a zone on... and wait xx minutes... It gets a little more complicated if your system has a pump or master valve, do you know if that's the case? If you have either one of these, its a little more complicated... I'll wait to see if you report back that you have either one of those to explain how to deal with that further. Paul

As Lee pointed out, it could be line noise closer to the outletlinc, or something wrong with the outletlinc iteslf You could try a factory reset, followed by a restore device. If that doesn't fix it, try the event trace. Paul

My Menard's has the keypads in stock... its a check their stock, driveby and fix in a day if you have one nearby. If you include the cost of shipping from SH, its usually a little cheaper that way too. If they have 6 vs 8, its any easy swap of the keys and reprogramming of the keypad.

Are there electronics like a TV or phone chargers plugged into the outletlinc? If you are using the outletlinc to control electronics, you'll most likely need a filterlinc plugged in between the outlet and devices. I've found outletlincs to be more sensitive to noise from loads than other insteon devices. A way to validate this theory is to unplug the load from the outletlinc and then retry the program / ISY control. Paul

You should not have to. Your current PLM's address is programmed into those devices. If the power blip just caused the PLM to lose its memory, this will put it back. The process will go look and see if PLM's address is on the devices, as well as put the devices's addresses back in to the PLM Here are the possibilities The modem lost its memory, and the factory reset and 'restore modem' will put it back and you'll be working as beforeHowever some devices may not come back, you'll see with a red !. Those might recover with a factory reset and 'restore device' (or they may be damaged beyond restore and have to be replaced) The modem may not respond to the restore modem, because its was damaged beyond repair and need to be replaced The factory reset, restore modem / restore device procedures are how you discover the extent of the damage. The fact that some of your keypads were recovered via this procedure is encouraging. More might also recover. Paul

"To reset the Power Line Modem to its original factory settings, unplug it from the wall outlet and wait 10 seconds. Press and hold its SET button, plug it back in, continue holding the SET button for 3 seconds and release. After several seconds, the Status LED will turn on, indicating a reset is complete." Then, you'll need to use the the "Restore Modem" option from the File menu of the admin console. Do no use the Delete modem function. Paul

You can try a factory reset of one of the keypads. It may not work, but easy to try and similar in technique to the procedure Stu had you try: Pull out the set button, wait for 10 seconds This time, push it all the way in and hold it After you hear a 'beep' let it go. Go the the admin console, right click on the switch and select 'restore device' Let the restore run, usually < 1 minute Retry the switch Given your description, this most likely won't work, but will only take a few minutes to try and will obviously be better the buying replacement keypads if it works. Give it a try on one and see what happens/ Paul

Stu, the outletlincs are very sensitive to line noise. While It probably defeats the aesthetics purpose, a filterlinc between the AC and OL should solve the problem.

That would be via airplay which requires a session token. It requires an external program on a server to manage it, Here is an example from rehills: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/18417-do-i-really-need-to-build-all-these-resources/?p=175065

I had a sears GDO that was similar. It's a multifunction wall mounted remote with light , that still recognized a short contact between the two leads. Its very easy to test.

Cool! glad its working for you . Paul

Np, we'll figure it out. For the moment, put the time parameters back in. And one program should work A few more questions since we've touched on the easier stuff. The first two are probably 'yes' but want to make sure You're hitting save on the left each time to save program changes? I forget sometimes The time on your ISY is correct to your timezone, within a few minutes? For the notifications: How did you configure mail eg... Default, or did you set up gmail? If you are sending to gmail (and some others) there needs to be a few words of text in the subject line and body of the messages ... Some email systems ignore messages without a subject line or body content Paul

sorry, I meant make your program look like this If Status 'Garage / I/O Linc - Garage-Sensor' is On Then Send Notification to 'James iPhone' content 'Garage Door OPENED' Else Send Notification to 'James iPhone' content 'Garage Door CLOSED'