paulbates

Larry I could see that, its more of a peer to the Echo, Nest and Ecobee from that perspective...device provides data to a service that does processing, crunching and storing.... Do as much coding as practical on the server side so that the device requires fewer resources and fewer FW updates. You had to open a port in your router from the tag manager to get it to work? What port does it use? Paul

Yes. To add to Larry's answer, port forwarding is based on sending internet access for a specific port to a specific local client's IP address on your LAN. If that client gets address via DHCP, the address can/will change, making the rule invalid. Paul

Shannon I've used the XPNR in several different high noise situations. Easier to install IMO, and has worked perfectly for me against HVAC motor noise (especially when I had older PSC) and transformer line noise. It doesn't carry the load, so no fuses or limits. Its for 120 /240. Yes, its 120khz vs 131.65 KHz, but I've not found that to be an issue. I found that x10 and insteon plug filters were interchangeable with no differences. Paul

It sounds like noise problems. Insteon devices will try several times to turn a device on and that can create a delay. I would suggest using the admin console to turn on the 'LED on TX' option on a swtichlinc that you can see, possibly the one in question.... that will make that switches LED a traffic indicator. Repeat the the action that runs the program. If the the LED flashes through out the 4 - 5 second delay, that means the the switch is retrying communications and it would mean following the procedure for diagnosing noise... run logs, look for noise producing devices. Also, is there another program that is triggered by this action or on this device at the same time, it could be collisions from that program issuing direct insteon commands Paul

Not at this time. The built in Thermostat API is limited. Click on 'Temperature control messages'. https://developer.amazon.com/public/solutions/alexa/alexa-skills-kit/docs/smart-home-skill-api-reference The API will improve over time, and hopefully expand to allow control of Mode and Fan at a minimum Paul

Larry, FYI the native Venstar Alexa skill works very well for the Colortouch series, setting the temp or requesting higher / lower. Paul

Hi AustinKirby A LAN is LAN... if all of your devices, wired and wireless.... converge on the same network through a consumer wireless router, that does not matter. However, you will need a 994i as the Echo/Dot are only supported on newer firmware, and those firmwares do not run on a 99i. Also, you will need to purchase an ISY portal subscription to connect the Amazon account to the ISY and support the communication. Paul

Yepl! I've learned to wary when I'm told after conference checkins to get my "swag", its usually a bag full of marketing junk. Not this time.. a dot and a nice hoodie. period. It is a great conference... I've been to a number (non aws) of conferences where the content was too salesy or "bunnies & duckies". I've gone to several health care industry specific sessions and they've package up and delivered exactly what I need to know in an hour. Its been a great week. i'm about halfway through the aws solutions arch cert. My current engagement is an azure migration, so I've had to redirect cert activity to there and will get back to aws cert next month. Paul

Hi Aaron, yes reinvent Paul

There is definitely a spouse approval factor involved here, revolving around: "can" vs "should" It may just show up with a few small jobs... the venstar thermostats and harmony remote are native and would bring the most wow factor for her first. I have 4 Insteon devices that share names that I have ignored for a while, need to fix that next for light control. To Larry's point, the unintended and misqued stuff will be the hurdle. Paul

When i chose to not act on the echo capability of my ISY portal account, the universe stepped in... I know what my next project is

Ron If you replaced it and its still doing it, that sounds, like powerline noise. I too have an older house (1952) , they never expected how the electrical system would eventually be used. I've found that carefully placed dual band devices and range extenders are needed. Given the amount I know, and assuming that the location is able to receive dual band, I would look at a dualband switch. Paul

The easiest is to put all of the lights you'd like to control in one scene for that purpose. Its ok for the same light to be in other scenes too. For example, I have several different scenes controlling lighting in my kitchen... recessed, pendant etc, and each are controlled by different keypad keys. I also put them all in one scene so a "good night" key pad key turns them all off when we go upstairs for the night. You can also use a program to set the scene on and off from a program Paul

I have a couple and one in particular goes flaky after a a few years (like several of my switches). Beyond "restore device", I have to factory reset it. Have you tried a factory reset, then restore? Paul

Hi Review this post and its references for logging: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/20328-create-web-pages-using-programs-requires-network-module/?hl=log Though in a different climate, I went through this exercise a number of years ago and found i could adjust hvac to get a head start for cooling my upstairs on hot days, and also control excess humidity when it got colder out and use the gable fan. Temp and humidity are distinct, independent concepts for sure Be sure to consider the operating range of the 2441TH: Operating temperature range 4 o to 40o C (39o to 104o F) Operating humidity range 0-90% relative humidity Paul

If you are replacing an outlet, that outlet is fed by a Hot and Neutral today, it will be fine. Paul

Yes, It can be done, I had a hub 1 and PLM running side by side when I first migrated to the ISY. I moved Insteon devices from one to the other, one functional set of devices at a time If you do add the same insteon devices to both, it can get a little tricky. Paul

Hi Fred One at at time, press the set button on the remote link until it beeps. Find the device in the Main device tree, right click and "Restore Devices" Paul

Hi Nick, here's how One time config On the remote computer, browse to the portal: https://my.isy.io Enter your credentials and login At the bottom of the page, click Portal Login Select Go to my ISY --- and your ISY Web page will appear Edit: Portal interface changed, this step no longer needed Next to the ISY, pick Select Tool then Information, then ISY Information Copy the url next to Admin console URL Run the admin conoole and "catch" the finder before it moves to your local ISY Click Add, paste in the copied url Click save to save a copy of the config file .. java upgrades wipe it out Normal operation Run the admin console and pick the ISY with the URL Tricky part: Enter your portal credentials in to the ISY login, not your normal ISY credentials you Its also constrained by the network to the building, especially that networks uplink speed back to the internet. The advantage is that its a client server set up.... it might take a while for things to load and save, like programs, but you should be ok once they are loaded. Be patient when the ISY starts up and when you first click the programs tab Regards Paul

Low voltage transformers can inject significant noise when turned on. That makes them easy to turn on and hard and slow to turn off. Everything nearby might operate more slowly when it's on. Test things with the transformer off only. Did everything improve?

Hi Try factoy restetting and restore device on the Kitchen Island Any low voltage transformers involved? I do in my kitchen, had similar problems and had to filter. Paul

Andrew Glad things are working. My comments on 'bridging' in the above post is a topic that new Insteon users usually need to address... if you plan to keep adding more Insteon to your system. Typically houses have 2 120 volt legs that supply power. Approximately half of lights, outlets, etc are fed by 1 leg, half by the other. The Insteon powerline signal can not typically move across those legs on its own The symptom would be, sometime in the future you add something like an iolinc, and the ISY will not be able to communicate with it. There are Insteon devices to help with this and a way to test that the Insteon signal is bridging... or not. Maybe for now don't worry about it, but if you plan to significantly expand Insteon on your system, check the forum or start a post if you have trouble adding new Insteon plugin devices or switches. Paul

Hi Andrew Dimmers are specifically designed to dim light bulbs. They are not designed for other types of loads. There is inherent danger in trying other type loads like fans, appliances etc. It might technically work for a while before the dimmer or load are damaged (or worse), but its not something to consider. Paul

So, let me correct that.. it initially looked to me like you were replacing a bad PLM, not installing a new one from scratch. I recommend this, since you have no existing Insteon devices with links to restore: You'll need a ethernet CAT5E cable dedicated to the PLM Connect the Cat5e cable to ISY’s Port A and the other end to the PLM Unplug the ISY and PLM Plug in the PLM, wait 10 seconds Plug in the ISY, let it start up Start linking insteon devices Since you have no Insteon devices, the restore PLM steps will not hurt anything, but not do anything either. Also be aware of the need to bridge your power legs on your electrical system using 2 dual band devices, so that you can expand your insteon network with more devices. The PLM is one of those 2 dual band devices. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON:_Troubleshooting_Communications_Errors Paul

Hey Andrew Throw the directions from the box away Follow these directions The actual interface is serial to the ISY, but it is supported by the cable with RJ45 plugs that you've been using between your PLM and ISY Paul