paulbates

Ok, I might have misunderstood based on the initial post, when it comes to the 'repeat every 1 hour'. That part will only work every hour as long as the variable > 100. You can leave the repeat every one hour out Another way to do it with 2 programs Program a (new program) If $dashbox.... > 100 $sumpOn = 1 Else $sumpOn = 0 Program b (existing program, modified) if $sumpOn = 1 Send Notification (...leave as is) $sumpCycles +=1 (count the number of sump pump cycles) Repeat every 1 minute $sumpRuntime += 1 (measure the runtime of the pump.. maybe seconds instead of minutes) I added the statements to count cycles and runtime... You can reset daily, weekly or monthly with another program (set them to 0). Given its winter, probably weekly or monthly is more useful. I do something similar for my furnaces Paul

The primary diagnostic here is link count = 0, even after a restore modem/plm. I would order a new plm and follow the procedure for that: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Restore_Modem_.28PLM.29 Paul

Hi John Because the ISY program is evaluating a variable, its executing any time that variable changes. Chances are what you are seeing is a steady increase in voltage, each change re-executing the program I would put a 10 second wait as the first statement of the "Then" section of the program, that will give the pump time to start and stabilize, and the changes get a chance to complete. I would do this If (....leave as is) Then wait 10 seconds Repeat every one hour Send Notification (....leave as is) Paul

There is not a hard 1:1 relationship from device to to total link count. For example, I have several large scenes to turn off ~20 devices. These scenes are hosted in the plm. I have a number of keypads, and they need scenes to control the buttons.... in addition I also define scenes with those same buttons and lots of other devices. The point is, if you have some really big scenes to turn large groups of devices on and off, you can look at consolidating or reducing them. I'd prefer not to do it that way, but you're banging into an unmovable headroom issue Take a look a your biggest scenes defined on your ISY and see if there is a way to combine or cut back. Paul

That appears to be the symptom of igniter voltage from the furnace traveling down the the 24vac lines. The 2441TH can only handle so much of that and can eventually lock up in response. I had this lock up / 'runaway heat' issue in 2012 with several 2441THs and eventually got my money back. There is a lengthy thread on the forum here about the extent some members went to to fix it with modifications and additional electronics, but I wasn't going there. My house came with standard contractor issue Honeywells, and I installed RCS and now Venstar thermostats on the same furnaces, none of them locked up. I think most people don't have the 'igniter problem'... I also think most thermostat manufacturers design with it in mind. Paul

With a link count of 0 after a restore, I would suspect its the PLM. How old is the PLM, more than 2.5 years? Is the PLM's LED on? Paul

That sounds like the right plan, that's the way you'll know for sure. If that does fix it, then you'll have a spare PLM on hand, which I always do. Paul

If you've swapped for another keypad and get identical results, its pointing at the PLM, I didn't see in the dialogue if your PLM is at or over the 2.5 year 'date of death' mark? If so, the PLM could be on its way to PLM heaven If not, the symptoms could also be potentially explained by being out of link address space. The PLM would not be able to hold the links from the switch to compare and respond to them What's the highest link count you've seen? Paul

Thanks Stu, its whatever somebody does when they arrive or leave. A better example this time of year is brushing snow off of a car. They may get behind the car, the "On" isnt sent, and then the lights go off. Then they come around the car and the lights go back on. My requirement is to keep the driveway and deck lit up until: somebody pulls in the driveway gets out of their car and comes in the house, or... until they leave the house, get into their car and drive away.. ... and not going on / off / on / off several times for either of those activities because of warming up, snow removal, loading the car, etc,.. I've used and prefer "signal on every sense", "Send On Only". and have a program to turn it off after X minutes. Paul

I send an on each time for my back deck and driveway. That way it stays on for my for my specified time of 4.5 minutes, if someone doesn't get out of their car for few minutes, or... more likely if they get in to warm their car up for a few before backing out in winter. That makes it better for visitors than it flashing on and off a few times. I change batteries twice a year which I'm good with. Paul

Yes. I've used all of those versions, and have 3 W10 systems today. Some notes Its generally better to download the admin console java app and run it locally from an icon on your desktop, rather than starting with a browser link. Chrome for instance, will no longer support launching java apps. The directions on doing this are with each firmware version Firewall and operating systems have become more and more safeguarded against 'bad' java apps, and software like the admin console pay the price in terms of have to configure firewalls and allow the admin console software. You have to be more diligent than ever in clearing java cache when upgrading ISY firmware versions It likely you won't experience these roadblocks. If you run into problems, check back here and/or search the forum for W10, Windows 10, etc Paul

The firmware updates for the 99i stopped a few years ago, and that firmware has deprecated SSL certificates vs current TLS, That's what's caused the issue. Said in a straightforward way, you'll want to start by upgrading your ISY 99i to the 994i and the latest firmware. Depending what software to access the ISY you are running on your iphone, that will likey solve that problem. The portal has a lot of advantages, but on the 99i you won't be able to participate. UDI offers an upgrade path for you, see the upgrades and refurbished: https://www.universal-devices.com/sales/ Paul

If you have the ISY portal, you can assign programs for alexa to turn on and off. The 'if' can be empty. The then would invoke the appropriate network resource. This can also be done with IFTTT with the Maker channel as the Then channel Paul

Its hard to have this kind of technology/ capability and expect children to self manage, at ages where they are learning and exploring their world verbally. Smart phones, tablets, computers can/should be managed and locked. Alexa can't be currently, (eg voice id). And even if you put it on a higher shelf to prevent direct access to the mic button, constantly managing the mic button would make it worthless IMO.

Hi, Welcome to the forums! Thanks for that report, that is helpful in understanding the line-of-site limitations. Paul

Ok, you're both 'making a row' here....

I remember when the room temperature hit hi 70s it would quit on its own

I care what you think, Stu

We're contained more to 'bursts of absurdity', who can ask her the most off the wall question. I only added a few HA things to start with and watch what happens. In your situation I would avoid thermostats, locks, garage doors etc, if you have them. It sounds like you decided on not using the portal, FWIW, it makes it a lot easier. Paul

Here's something to try to prove it. Bring up the admin console and click on the scene. Say "Alexa turn <name> down" or "Alexa dim <name>" It will dim or brighten 9% for either one of those Paul

You have to repeat it few times if full on and LED lights to see a change. It works better on already dimmed and/or incandescents, Paul

Hi and welcome to the forums! I have a number of 3 ways as well. I can say "Alexa dim kitchen table" and it works. But its only incremental I only have the scene published, none of the individual devices Paul

I've had to couple it with a variable resistor to set the right point trigger point, but it is binary on/off for sure.

It has one in and one out.

There are a couple of alternatives. Here is a program that uses the dusk sensor in an insteon motion sensor, and checks for dusk as a fall back. Its unlikely, but if the sensor is sensing motion at the same time as the dusk call, it misses it. I also have "Fast on" for a local switch to turn on the associated items. The sunset - 45 for 45 minutes insures that dark storm system doesn't set it off early, or the occasional eclipse. Turning them on Lights on Dusk - [ID 0009][Parent 0006] If ( From Sunset - 45 minutes For 45 minutes And Control (Old) 'Yard / Premise Lights / Driveway Motion-Sensor-Dusk.D' is switched On ) Or Time is Sunset + 4 minutes Or 'Kitchen / Back Deck' is switched Fast On Then Set Scene 'Yard / Yard and Lamp Security / Yard light - Lanscape Lights ' On Wait 32 seconds Set Scene 'Yard / Yard and Lamp Security / Yard Lights On' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Turn on yard lights by driveway dusk sensor The 32 second delay between the landscape lights and everything else is becuase the landscape lights have 30 second delay after powerup The From / For conditions prevent early turn on by a heavy late afternoon storm Another way to achieve this, if you have the climate module, and a nearby weather station that reports Light %, that can be used too. Turning them off To turn them off, simply have a program at that time that turns them off. Paul