paulbates

Thats why I put the caveat in there . The old ones are single band only for sure, i would look at the manual for your model... At the risk of tempting fate, its amazing my old ones haven't died given the environment.. attic and detached garage. If you have a lamplic or something db, just plug it temporarily onn the circuit with the iolinc to test what happens. Paul

Stan- In a scene, the ISY configures the scene initially, but is not an active player in scene execution when one device is linked directly to another... eg the ISY is not a cause. What you listed indicates that the MS can be seen by the ISY, but not the iolinc. And keep in mind that the iolinc is single band powerline only, at least the older ones are. In my case, I have 2 iolincs in my garage. I would occasionally get messages that one could not be reached. I put an Access Point (in today;s world, Range Extenders are used instead... same idea) in my garage with line-of-site to dual band switches in the house. That was the end of it. I'm thinking the iolinc is at the end of a long circuit and not getting reach, and/or there is noise on the line wherever the iolinc is Paul

Hi Stan It's a scene and should work immediately. My back floodlights are triggered by an ms, plus 3 keypad keys... all work immediately. I also have a keypad key that operate an iolinc for my garage door.. again it's immediately. My guess is that the ms rf signal from the ms does not have a clear path to the iolinc and the pause is due to consuming hops and retransmission A range extender might be needed Paulo

Who on the forum is being helped with what at this point in this thread? We're all individually capable of reading and deciding for ourselves. Please either walk away, or continue the bashing in a pm - if there somehow is still value in this discussion for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To finish off what I did: Alternating fans 10 mins on and off - keeps temps even across the living spaces without 24x7 operation If the fan is run right after an AC cycle completes, it forces the moisture from the condenser back into the living space. Give it time to drain before fan cycling (22 minutes) HVAC Cycle US Fan - [ID 0030][Parent 0017] If 'HVAC / Upstairs' Heat/Cool State is Idle And 'HVAC / Upstairs' Humidity Active is False And 'Attic / Attic-Damper Control' Status is Off And 'Kitchen / Doorwall Sensor-Opened' Status is Off Then Wait 22 minutes Repeat While $True is $True Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode On $V_US_Fan_Cycle_Sequence += 1 Wait 10 minutes Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode Auto Wait 10 minutes Else Set 'HVAC / Upstairs' Fan Mode Auto $V_US_Fan_Cycle_Sequence = 0

The subtleties are helpful in determining if the occupants have "revolted" against automation and have take matters into their own hands at the stat

Assuming there is a router in front of the remote/destination device; the firewall on the destination side is doing its job: blocking unsolicited traffic. You'll need to set up a firewall rule on the destination to allow that port in, and then supply the internal NAT'd IP address (192.x.x.x) so that the destination router routes the packet correctly

Glad you're working, thanks for reporting back Paul

I think there are cases of here of similar sized and # of device setups that this can be accomplished without adding hops. I would add a signalinc bridge to each sub panel. Dualband will most likely be needed to move traffic between each separate subpanels wiring. To the best of your ability, have dual band devices and or Insteon Range extenders from each system on a circuit near each other. Here is what I mean Panel A Panel B Signalinc bridge Signal Linc Bridge Leg A Leg B Leg A Leg B Dual Band device --line of sight -- Dual band device It doesn't matter which leg you use one either panel, just be sure you know that there is a dual band device from one of Panel A's legs near to a dual band device on one of Panel B's legs. Knowing that electrical system mapping can be tricky or take time to do by turning breakers off. Repeat the process for sub panel C Also, the closer the blue item are, in terms of wire feet, to each respective panel, the better. Do the best you can with that. As mentioned above, the crossing the signal linc bridge is 0 hops.. you can potentially get a lot of benefits there Paul

That is one way. I personally get a lot of value out of the passive coupler: Its dumb so it never has to be rebooted or reset It's a bridge, and as such costs 0 hops to cross. There are Insteon signal and hop diagnostics in the Homeseer Insteon Plugin from Mark Sandler. I logged 'before' and after the signal linc and the results were significant. Dual band transitions cost a hop. I also have some access points and dual band devices. Some circuits have noise at the edges and dual band helps that, where needed. In addition, I put the PLM in an outlet right off my main panel so that its in the center of the electrical system for a better reach. In your case try to put the PLM at a location that is the fewest wire feet from there, as best as possible. Given the size of your home and complexity of the electrical system, I would have couplers on every panel, and also dual band. The dual band is a no brainer these days because almost everything is. Use access points or range extenders in conjunction with single band devices like io linc where no dual band exists. For instance, I have one in my detached garage that it line of site to dual band switches in the house Paul

The hub and PLM are not that different from a circuitry point of view. I used the first gen hub too, and it is very similar to the plm. We should expect some differences, but not great differences, and at this point I think the test proves that there are great differences. Which seems to point back to something being different about where the PLM is versus the hub. Since the hub is on a cord, it can be moved around and placed such that its RF gets a better view. The PLM normally has to be plugged down lower and right into the wall by wires, etc and its rf blocked. Can you put the PLM on a 6' extension cord, plug it into the exact same outlet as the hub and set it nearby the hub, then repeat the tests? Paul

Hard to say, its better to diagnose. The 4 tap sets up dual band devices an internal diagnostic mode to see if they are on opposing legs. Here is the basic procedure and how to read it. That 4 button press needs to be really fast Use PowerLinc Modem as a Phase Bridge Install additional dual-band INSTEON devices if they are not already installed Start Phase Detection Mode by tapping the Set button on PowerLinc Modem four times quickly PowerLinc Modem will begin beeping and status LED will turn on solid green Check the LED behavior of the other dual-band devices to see if they are on the opposite phase If at least one of the dual-band device LEDs is blinking green or is bright solid white or blue, the device is on the opposite phase. Continue on to step 4. If none of the dual-band devices exhibit the behavior above, they are on the same electrical phase. Try the following: • Follow steps 2 and 3 with the other dual-band devices to see if they are exhibiting the desired LED behavior • Move a dual-band device to another location until it exhibits the desired LED behavior Tap PowerLinc Modem Set button PowerLinc Modem will stop beeping

The ISY only works with the Serial PLM. But that shouldn't be an issue, Paul

Another question, how did you bridge all legs of your existing electrical system when you set up houselinc? Signallinc passive bridges? Dual band devices verified with the "4 tap test" It would be worth "4 tap testing" the devices your are trying to add if they are dual band Paul

Gottcha... I was counting the hub as a plm. That's what I had on Homeseer when I converted. If you are using the "Remove Existing Links" when Adding the insteon devices, having the Hub plugged in should not be a problem. And as a dual band device, might be supporting the network. Is your PLM plugged in very close to the Hub and sits right next to it? Paul

Hops left of 0 is ugly. It suggests a communication problem. If you went with 2 PLMs, where did you locate the ISY's PLM? Ideally near the electrical panel in the center of the network? Paul

FWIW, I would suggest that if you're just getting started with your ISY, dive into some of the other features of the ISY that get you automating. How Insteon & scenes work "under the hood" is a worthy area of learning, but for later. Investing time in it right now will not give you dividends as much as learning about the ISY's programming environment, modules, etc I would remember this technique for future situations that are similar, eg devices that respond partially but not fully. Restore device or factory resetting and restoring devices, in that order, are both relatively easy to do in most cases and solve a lot of problems. Paul

You're welcome, glad it worked. Restore device copies the isy onboard version of links back to the device. These links tell the device the plm's and other devices links so that they talk to each other. It's something to try when you have problems like you describe initially. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Chris and welcome to the UDI Forums Try a "restore device" to one of the keypads and repeat your test on its keys... right click on the kepad in the main device tree and select restore device. Paul

Hi and welcome to the UDI forums! I came from Homeseer a few years ago and faced with a similar challenge. My network is smaller, around 50 devices. I tried the discovery method on a test group of devices, but found that I couldn't always make sense of the scenes that were built. I "built from scratch" However, I kept both systems running and moved devices in groups to the ISY in phases. I picked groups of related devices that supported specific functions like landscape & yard lighting, virtual circuits in one room, etc. I cut them over groups at a time, rebuild functionality, test functionality and move on. The more I did it, the better I got at it and it went more quickly. You do need 2 PLMs to accomplish this, one for HL and one for ISY. If you keep a backup PLM it can be pressed into service for this effort, or this could be the reason to get one. With that many devices, I think a "big bang" conversion will be difficult. Paul

Mines been out there since 2012. Rarely have problems with falses, Birds will set it off

That is correct. Jumper 1 does work with jumper 5 in place. It scrapes off about 33% of distance and works, at least for me. My deck/back yard/drive MS has full side to side coverage that includes the street. The x10 eagle eye worked pretty well in this position, but when I put the Insteon MS up there, every person walking by on the side walk and cars driving by on my side of the street set it off. Really annoying. I put on jumper one and its really good. The yard, deck and driveway only set it off now Paul

Ageed that the lack of continuous temp/humidity reading from insteon products has been annoying. The technical aspects of it are supported today in the insteon thermostat... multiple device nodes for temp (C of F) and humidity. A sensor can be built around that capability with an alarm grade CR123 battery. I'm missing the continuous temp and humidity reading for my attic from the Applied Digital Oclelot and Bobcat sensors X10 i had 15 years ago. This is the specific item to view / vote for temp and humidity posted by Teken is here: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/7354-multi-sensor

There's this from the full manual: If the placement of OutletLinc makes the first method too difficult, try manually resetting the unit with the following instructions: 1) If you are using a Controller to control OutletLinc, be sure to Unlink it from the Controller. See Unlinking OutletLinc from an INSTEON Controller. 2) Tap the Set button on OutletLinc until the load is on 3) Press & hold the Set button on OutletLinc for 3 seconds The OutletLinc Status LED will begin blinking 4) Wait 3 seconds and then tap the Set button on OutletLinc five times quickly The OutletLinc Status LED and the load will turn off 5) Immediately after the LED turns off, press & hold the button for 3 seconds and then release The OutletLinc Status LED will flash once and then turn off A few seconds later, the Status LED will turn on solid Not sure if it works on this model or not. Its annoying, but less annoying than cutting the breaker and worth a try. Paul

Stan That's exactly why I did it. When I used email I'd have outlook.com file the messages in special folders, but then there was not an easy way to see all log activities in event order. The app has special notification sounds for different messages. It took some patience for the first one.. but after you get the first one figured out, the remaining ones are copy and paste, more or less. Paul