stusviews

Need help with a multi-way configuration?

The 140 is a typo, should be 120. P = IE, so the current at 120VAC is 1.2 amperes which is the same for 200W @ 240VAC. These are only approximations as line voltage in North America is nominally 110/120 and in the rest of the world it's 220/240VAC. I'm not sure that even concerns the OP at this point. Nor is there any indication that the OP is in Australia. There have been may posts since the original.

The Micro Dimmer is rated for 100w, the InLine dimmer can handle 400W. Virtually all multi-way configurations can be wired to provide line and neutral in every box. I agree that the best solution is SwitchLincs instead of one Micro Module, but it all depends on the cable routing. There is only one diagram no matter how the cables are routed.

Where you install the Micro Module depends entirely on your specific wiring. There is no one diagram that fits all situations.

Probably not. I only mentioned that it was not as loud as the On/Off SwitchLinc or KPL.

Both he Dual On/Off Outlet (2663-222) and the OutletLinc Dimmer (2742D) can be used as a scene controller and also as a program trigger. Either Control or Status will work as a trigger. The latter device does click, but no nearly as loud as an On/Off SwitchLinc or KPL.

Convection heating uses line voltage, 110/120VAC or 220240VAC. Standard thermostats control 24VAC systems. Any standard thermostat connects to the Aube relay. The Aube relays are available with or without 24VAC available. If you are also controlling air conditioning, then you already have 24VAC, otherwise you'll need the Aube relay with the 24VAC power supply. Any standard thermostat connects to the Auble relay. When heat is called for, the Aube relay switches line voltage on (or off, depending on the setpoint) to control the heating system. The ISY can natively control an Insteon thermostat. If you have or add the Z-Wave module, then you can choose nearly any Z-Wave thermostat. I'm not aware of any Insteon or Z-Wave thermostat that can control line voltage, but there are WiFi thermostats that can.

I'm not sure what you mean by the "ISY Portal under Amazon Echo". The ISY portal and the Echo are different devices, each has a list. The portal has two lists, actually. That includes only devices added to the ISY such as devices, scenes, programs and variables. They appear only when you select a particular list. Those that have already been added to the portal are shown in red, the others appear black. The second list is anything that you've added to the portal that you want to control using your voice (i.e. Alexa). The other list is devices added to the Amazon Echo. That includes ISY portal devices as well as any other device that you may have added--not everything in an Amazon Echo list is an iSY device. Which list has 99 devices, the portal which shows which ISY devices you have already added or the Amazon Echo list which shows anything at all added to the Alexa app?

Which shows 99 device, the portal or the Echo. Portal devices in red have already been added, you cannot add them again. Devices in black have not been added (or were and then deleted).

You can use any conventional thermostat with an Aube relay

When you first set up account B there should have been no devices, scenes or programs in that account at all.

Start by disabling all programs that control the thermostat. Set the thermostat to Cool only not Auto. Does the problem occur?

Yes. While in the living room, if I ask Alexa to turn the light on, only the living room light turns on. The same command in the bedroom turns on the bedroom light. If I want to turn on a light in a room other than where I am, I need to specify which room. The accounts are not "associated." Each additional account after the first is called a sub-account.

I'm not sure what you are trying to say. You can certainly "trigger" a device or scene from the Admin Console as well as running Then or Else in a program. And the portal allows you to "trigger" a device, scene and/or program (Then or Else) using your voice.

So do programs for scenes. Each brighten or dim command changes the brightness by about 16%. There is no way to set a percentage for scenes.

Programs can be used for any lock feature.

On a few occasions, I deleted a program that did not function as expected and started anew--using identical statements. The new program ran correctly. No explanation available.

Note that the BE469 locks can be unlocked from the inside side. If someone can reach over the gate, then the locks are useless. I use GTO (Gates That Open) locks for all our gate locks. They remain locked (unless left unlocked using a key) and can be controlled using an I/O Linc.

I don't know why you should need both. I have a habit of using "and not" to ensure that Else runs. Keep in mind that just having a state variable be a specific value is not adequate. It must change from some other value to the specified value. HP calculators depended on reverse Polish notation which, BTW, is the opposite of Hungarian notation

Are you on 4.3.26 for both the UI and firmware? If not, then you can expect the unexpected to occur. You may not need two programs if you test for: If $humidifer_call is 0 And $humidifer_call is not 1 which, BTW, also ensures that Else is run. Tip: precede integer variable names with i_ and use s_ for state variables.

Select Restore Device first, then Write Updates ...

You only have statements that describe what to do when the lock is locked, but noting about what to do if it's not locked.

Not me. I can hardly wait to procrastinate.

What took you so quick

By losing connectivity do you mean that the ring turns orange and you get a message about the connection when you issue a voice command or something else?