stusviews

You'll need both the Somfy Universal Interface RTS Interface II (Somfy Part No. 1810872) and the Autelis Somfy RTS interface.

I have four portal accounts (one portal) and four Logitech Harmony Hub accounts (two living room video, one living room audio and one bedroom video). Each portal accepts one and only one Logitech Harmony Hub. One living room Harmony video is linked to the living room portal account and the one living room audio is linked to my 'house" portal. Everything works as expected.

You need to place the MS into linking mode prior to doing Restore Device/Write Updates to Device.

An I/O Linc is the correct device, but if you want a scheduled "lock out," then you'll need to use a program or battery eliminator to minimize a delay which may be as long a 2-3 seconds. The delay may be to your advantage to avoid conflicts involving two sensors or you can use a bit more complex program. You'll have to experiment to find the ideal program delay. Alternatively, you may be able to set the delay for the I/O Linc. We can work on the delay/program after you get the door working. I'm guessing that there's no location that can be seen from both sides. You are correct, connect the push button (2-wires?) and keypad (2-wires?) to the NO and COM connections on the I/O Linc. Polarity doesn't matter. Link both Motion Sensors as controllers of the I/O Link relay. You may want to start by linking only one motion sensor.

Using a 6- or 8-button secondary button will work as you stated, but without anything connected to the load wire, so will a SwitchLinc dimmer and even an On/Off Switch (relay).

What controls the door opener now? Is it a low voltage device (<30volts) or line voltage (110/120 VAC)? Provide the make and model and, if possible, a link to the manual.

Since you can't change the established Insteon protocol without wreaking havoc (neither can Insteon Labs, read the Insteon white papers), the solution is to not connect a load to the device from which you want to capture a double-tap and use a program (or two, if you want to capture both on and off). I have bunches of devices with no load attached, mostly, but not exclusively in tabletop enclosures.

A double-tap will turn the load on or off, just as a single-tap will do. It doesn't matter if you're using HL, an ISY or software. That's just a part of the Insteon protocol. Fast on/off bypasses ramp rate and brightness level.

In a multi-way configuration, power can enter at the fixture or any one of the switches. It really matters. In any case, the Micro Module requires all of line, neutral and load.

Years ago the Boston Computer Club had a motto. I'll paraphrase it here, "It's not your fault, it's Amazon's." The usual suggested solution is to give the device/scene/program alternate spoken names, up to five.

It you really, really want to start from scratch, then you should factory reset each device before adding it to the ISY. But, a red exclamation indicate bad communication, as you've noted. You may end up with the same problem. About how many (of how many) devices display the problem?

There is no Beta newer Beta for 4+. The current version, 4,5,4, is an official release. There is no Beta for v5+. Since its onset, it's been in Alpha.

You can do that by giving each kitchen light a unique name. Or if you set up two accounts on one Echo account (not two portal accounts), then you can decide which one is active at any time from either location. See: https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201628040

Absolutely, yes! The flash memory for changing the LED brightness allows 1,000,000 changes. Guessing the HEM is about the same, at 30 changes a day that'd be just over ninety-one and one quarter years. You may want to start saving for a replacement

That's unusual. Try Restore Device followed by Write Updates to Device.

The Insteon wireless thermostat can be linked as a controller of any Insteon device. It is unnecessary to link it to a wired system. In fact. linking the wireless thermostat to an HVAC limits what and how you can control other devices.

I don't believe that you can create a "degree" of separation, the devices are either completely independent or they are not. BTW, having access to the lights doesn't mean that you must use that access.

More succinctly, the only concern of the National Electric Code is safety. In the US it's published by the National Fire Protection Association, a private, not government, organization. In Canada, it's a government published document (CEC).

If the box into which you intend the install the Micro Module is approved for it's current use, and there's probably no reason it isn't, then yes, you can install a Micro Module. The code doesn't really specify what can be enclosed, only that the enclosure be approved.

Z-Wave security devices do not provide a choice between adding them as a security device or not.. They either add (as a security device) or they don't add at all. If you were able the add the siren to hte Z-Wave mesh, the it already supports Security Command Class and has the AES 128 bit security encryption built right in.

The repeater is useless. Distance in inconsequential.

First, it a 3-way configuration wired wrong, then it wont' work.. Second, are you sure that the fixture is connected to two black wires and that no white wire connects to the fixture at all? BTW, the fixture (correctly) has two 3-wire cables. Ground is not counted as a wire.

Selecting test should inform you if the test fails. The only indication of success is receiving an email.

Many users, including myself, have found that the Aeon repeater (DSD37) is useless.

Unless battery powered, all Insteon devices require line voltage to function at all. You could use an Insteon device to control power to the transformer. Unfortunately, that'd also require four transformers.