stusviews

No one on the Amazon Echo Forum preferred the tone.

Factory reset is different for different devices. You'll need to consult the on-line Owner's Manual for instructions. The Hub should definitely NOT be added to the ISY. If you opt for the portal (subscription), then you can use IFTTT to send messages to the ISY.

All my Echo's including sub-accounts are functioning. When I've gotten an offline message, it usually corrected after a short time, less than 30 minutes. Have you tried update WiFi from the Alexa app?

It's possible to use both the Hub and the ISY, but with a significant amount of caution. Using both is not recommended for a noob. To have access to Izzy, you have to enable the ISY skill in the Alexa app. You cannot use the MobiLinc portal and the ISY portal concurrently. You will have to disable one. You are right to consider any communication problem first. How far have you gotten in that direction?

You need two dual-band devices to bridge the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. Once you have verified coupling, then any additional dual-band device serves to increase the range and reliability ot the Insteon network. Range Extenders work by plugging them in. There is no need nor can you add the Range Extender to the ISY.

The ISY skill adds some capability to the Echo that the ISY Link does not have. For example, the ISY Link cannot communicate with locks notrthermostats and cannot run programs. Regarding programs, asking Alexa to turn the program On or Off executes Then or Else, respectively. Alexa cannot run a program (i.e., execute If), Izzy can. You have to invoke Izzy by asking Alexa to tell Izzy to do something, for example, "Alexa, tell Izzy to run <program_name>," or "Alexa, ask Izzy for the status of <thermostat_name>."

You can use the Echo to control programs (that control the thermostat) or you can ask Alexa to tell Izzy to control the thermostat. Izzy can only change the setpoint. For example, "Alexa, the Izzy to set the <thermostat_name> to 75º." Alexa will respond with, "Which mode, heating or cooling." Programs are good for turning heating or cooling on or off.

It's in compliance with the NEC to install a Micro Module or In-linLinc in a ceiling or wall box. The devices are accessible (nothing needs to be damaged to access them).

Andy, have you tried open/close with programs?

Cool. I mean warm

ICON devices are not dual-band. Once the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply are bridged any additional dual-band device serves to increase the range and reliability of the Insteon signal.

Programs > Summary. Sort by Last Run Time to see which program(s) ran about the time of the notification.

I don't see the offer on the sales page anymore.

SH will replace a leak sensor that get damaged due to a leak.

The clear plastic film is there so the the device appears very new when you get it. It doesn't matter if you leave it on or take it off as long as the contacts are exposed.

Select each button in each scene, not just the scene itself and verify each buttons setting (i.e., all responders for each and every controller).

Select each controller. Set what you would like that particular controller to do.

The grayed out sounds can be turned on. They've always been there. The sounds acknowledge that the command started and ended, nothing more.

That's the way Amazon operates--Echo, Fire Tablet, Fire TV, Fire Stick, etc.

A voltmeter doesn't put a load on the battery. Voltage drops when the battery is weak and under load. Use a battery tester.

Alexa has a limited vocabulary. "Run program" is not part of it. "On" will execute True, "Off" will execute Else. Izzy can "run" a program (If is executed).

Alexa cannot run a program. If you ask Alexa to turn <program_spoken> On, then the Then statements will execute, Off will execute the Else statements.

What's the indication the the PLM seemed to short out? Also, if the PLM provides power for the ISY, then you probably have a 2412S which is somewhat old. There's no need to supply power twice.

What has changed is that the term Connected Home no longer exists, it's now Smart Home and it's in the main column, not in Settings. Log out is also gone, instead there's a Not name? Sign out.

I'm having success with open and close for both devices and scenes, but not at all with programs.