Brian H

The Sunset yesterday was 7:10 PM. Missed the scheduled time yesterday so it showed today's of 6:58 PM before I toggled DST from On to Off then back On. It then showed todays as 6:48. Closer to what I expected Today Sunset shows 7:08 PM and the night on time was where I expected it to be, 6:48 PM. -20 from Sunset. Will try to observe when it happens today.

I had a sunset miscalculation after updating from 2.6.6 to 2.6.7. Saved my data Updated. closed My Lighting Cleared Java Cache Restarted My Lighting In the Program Summary My Night On Scene is Sunset -20 minutes turn on all devices. Showed todays sunset as 07:10 PM next run for Night on was for 09/10/08 [missed todays] as 06:58 PM. I thought it would be closer to 06:48 PM Release Notes said DST was a fix so I turned off DST then back on. Now Next run of Night on was showing 06:48 PM on 09/10/08 My location is a custom Longitude and Latitude.

http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.ph ... post832142 Looks like Homeseer is now dropping the Insteon Plug In and teaming up with UDI. At least on new devices if I read the post correctly.

Thank you for thet information and great support.

Would the ISY99i have the same limits as the ISY-26; on the major update plans?

I believe the ISY99 will remove old Insteon Links when adding them. Problem maybe old X10 ones; that may not be removed when the device is added. If not flaky; then maybe the seller cleared them out.

You may also want to go to the Smarthome web sites page for the model switch you bought. There should be a link to the Full Users Manual. It can be a great help with much more data then on the Quick Users Guides in the box. Since they where in a demo home. I would do a Factory Reset on all of them to clear out any cobwebs. Even new ones; it is a good idea to Factory Reset any Insteon modules. Seems some get shipped with test data in them.

I believe the HD501 is the OEM module made by X10 that is like the RR501. I have had an RR501s power supply fail and do strange things. I rebuilt mine and again it is fine.

If you chose economy shipping; they do hold the order until complete. Standard ground shipping allows you to ship partial and they send the remainder when in stock. But the remainder is economy with no insurance and tracking. So I always use Standard and don't ship partial. Have you look in the great UDI Knowledgebase for data? Helpful data even if the unit is not in your hands yet. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... =Main_Page

From messages in other forums. They can get quite warm by most folks thinking of what warm or hot is. Smarthome has said in some forums that they meet UL and ETL standards and that standard is in mi option too warm; but they said it is safe. Also remember if you have two next to each other they must be derated. http://www.accessha.com/forums/showpost ... stcount=48

I have 150;200 and a 300 watt Light bulb. Not that I have them in a circuit right now. The heat is generated by the electronics in the SWL. If the dimming SWL there is a triac that regulates the level to the bulbs. It does generate heat. If it is mounted in a plastic box and not a metal one it may even get warmer as I believe some of the heat spreads through the mounting ears to the box.

Thanks for the update. A BoosterLinc of all things. APs use both RF from unit to unit and send and receive on the powerline also. For Insteon signals. X10 is not processed by APs or the older RLs. That is why my ACT CR134 X10 repeater is still in use. Though X10 is not that important any more as there are now RemoteLincs and soon to be released Motion Sensors.

When reinserting the battery. Wait until the beeper beeps twice after the continous beeps stop while holding the Bright Button. A single on off button can also be reset by removing the battery. Wait 10 or more seconds. Hold the Off side of the button you want reset and insert the battery. Hold for at least three seconds befor releasing it.

Yes. It dawned on me that both are controllers only and will not link to each other.

Sounds almost like you have the RemoteLinc Buttons linked to each other. If so; the one not in use; is in a power saving mode and will not respond to any Insteon Signals sent to it. That could cause the LED on the RemoteLinc in use retrying to communicate and the flashing LED means a communications failure.

I don't think it is the PLM to ISY99i communications being slow. The whole process of Insteon Signals having to read and write Links Tables to the modules in question takes time. If you have poor power line communications and the modules are retrying it gets even worse. My older 2414S PLM with Ken Miller's 'InHomeFree' also could take a bit of time to query all modules status.

That is all I did when I moved mine. Did the setup only to verify they communicated with each other and where on opposite phases. They do not link to anything else as mentioned. After two setup may not be needed unless you want to verify they can talk to each other,

Yes with the 6 digit ID you don't have to run all over to do the addition. I have a log of all IDs and where they are located. Even adding a KeypadLinc and RemoteLinc have special tabs to do it. I must have saved at least 30 minutes of not running all over when adding modules to a RemoteLinc. ISY-26 and now a ISY99i are so easy to use.

The AP's would be a good chance to get better communications. I started with an old all X10 compatible Smarthome system and had the simple .1uf AC rated cap across the phases, that many used. My Insteon communications was OK though some retransmits where showing in some areas. Added two older SignaLinc RFs that are now replaced with Access Points. Both improved things greatly. Keep us informed on the progress.

I would also try the direct address and see if it can communicate that way. If not you may have a signal problem to that circuit. Do you have a set of Access Points to bridge the split phase power found in most homes? Though much better than X10 signals; Insteon Signals can be absorbed by some devices or masked by power line noise makers.

I still find all kinds of good X10 data in Phil's tutorials.

That was my thought also; but sometimes whan you fix something in a update you break something else. At least that is how it sometimes happens where I work.

I have decided now that my 2414S has missed times twice this month. It is time to use my ISY-26 full time. It came with 5.2, but I have 4A and 61 also from other purchases. I am not counting 24 that I know is a complete dog. I also seem to remember Smarthome has an attitude on replacing PLMs for Firmware. From 4A; 52 or 61. Opinions on best choice would be appreciated. TIA.

Rand; I believe mine is also. So using one of them in the external power jack and not using the PLMs maybe a good option.

The PLM sheet says unregulated +12 Volts 300Ma. So that is 1/2 of the equasion as I don't know the ISY-99i requirements. I do know the PLM Daughter Card has a fuse on it if you overload it. Serial signals may depend on the quality of the cable and the interface chips used in the devices.