Brian H

Lutron actually makes a filter kit to prevent power line signals from flickering their loads. It wires into the Line input if memory serves me.

If you have the Plus version. Make sure the automatic writes to RF devices is enabled. Should not make a difference but I always turned it On to add remotes if it was normally Off. There is another thread here on a similar issue you are having. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21093-cannot-determine-insteon-engine-for-mini-remote/ Opening the Event Viewer on Level 3 and then trying to add it. Should show the messages between the PLM and the Mini Remote. Using the drop down list for RemoteLinc2 modules: Tried one of my 2342-232 4 Scene modules and it was not adding to my setup. With the Can't Determine Engine. Messages showed no responses from the Mini Remote. In my case I had misread the six digit Insteon Address due to a slightly worn label on it. With the correct address it did work. Double checking the address label could not hurt. The Start Linking method it did not work.

I also have the Light Dims on my ISY994iPro's Power LED. I also dimmed the Off LED in an old 2476S SwitchLinc by working one into the frame without dimming the whole set.

If you have not downloaded the the ISY994i Users Manual. It has lots of good information in it. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY%20User%20Guide%204.2.8.pdf The UDI Wiki also has many good tips and information in it. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

It was brand new, 2 year warranty, factory fresh box.

I was going to do an informal test. With one of the two new 2843-222 Open Closed Sensors Rev 1.B Date Code: 3815. I just received. Big surprise. One of the two is DOA right out of the box.

Only thing to consider with the bare wires. How conductive the water being detected is and how sensitive the external contact input on the open-closed sensor is. At one time. There was an Insteon water detector kit using an I/O Linc and a Flood Stop water detector system sensor pad accessory. Connected to the Sensor Input and Ground of the I/O Linc. It was highly unreliable and quietly went away. Seems it was sensitive to how conductive the water was contacting the sensor was.

The Insteon and x10 Motion Sensors uses an IR Detector. Motion is sensed by a temperature change in a set time period. Some of the false trigger causes have been pointed out in the thread. The FCC Database information for the 2844-222 Insteon Motion Sensor II also shows an IR detector in its internal photos.

You don't by chance. Have the Local Button Ramp rate set to something like 8 minutes? The Off button may not look iike it is working if it is ramping so slow.

The latest model toys can be fun. Though I have purchased the early new Insteon Model production run modules and they had some quirks that where not expected. Even though I suspect they where tested thoroughly by some Hardware Beta Testers.

Even if it did act 100% like the older one. It has a new Sub Category number of 16 that would not be known to the ISY994i.

I don't think many users have the new Motion Sensor II except a few Beta Testers. Data may not be available yet from end users. That maybe under a Beta NDA.

Smarthome does like to keep the names the same and it can be confusing. The SignaLinc RF was the older active electronics phase coupler and RF receiver, transmitter. Though for present Dual Band devices will not work. As it was on 904MHz not the present 915MHz. The plain SignaLinc is now the passive coupler. SwitchLinc, ApplianceLinc, KeypadLinc and LampLinc come to mind, was used for both X10 only and the Insteon line of devices.

The passive SignaLinc has no test button as you have noted. Test the Dual Band devices in the system. With the four tap tests also called Beacon or Communications tests in some Insteon Manuals. If the SignaLinc is on its own dual breaker. You could even turn it on and off to see what changes to verify some coupling. Since it is passive. The signal and noise on one phase is what is coupled to the other phase. If the original transmission has degrades to .5 volts and .1 volts noise. Only the .5 volt signal and .1 volt noise is coupled to the other phase.

I have seen reports of CFL bulbs starting to make noise when they get older. Same for the power supplies in other devices starting to make noise as they get older. If you disconnect the wireless phone and remove the CFL bulb does anything change?

There is a thread here on how the external probe was connected where the original internal probe is normally connected. So the external probe information is sent to the ISY controller. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/?hl=2441zth

I went to the manufacturers web site. After looking at the Ebay sale information and comparing to their web site. It looks like this is the interface board. http://www.sainsmart.com/relay-1/sainsmart-network-web-server-16-channels-relay-ethernet-controller-module-remote-control-board-lan-wan-web-server-rj45-port-control-under-wifi-connected-network.html This is the kit with interface board and relay board. http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-ethernet-control-module-lan-wan-web-server-rj45-16-chs-relay.html The network commands are shown on the pages.

The Motion Sensors have jumped between "In Stock Ship Today" and "Not Available" for the last few weeks. A post here indicated that Amazon may still have some. There is a completely different Insteon Motion Sensor (2844-222) in the FCC Database. Smarthome rarely gives advanced notice of new products being released. Until they are available, are taking preorders or announcing them at a show.. So we can only guess to when they may replace the older model with the newer model. There is a thread here on the new 2844-222 Insteon Motion Sensor. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/20029-motion-sensor-ii-2844-222-coming-soon/

I thought some model washers from Samsung where flying apart. During the spin cycle. Due to the way the tub was mounted on springs hanging from an open slot.

The older 2242-222 HUB normally had a network board in it. Mine has a shielded network board in it. I understand some of them had the network board replaced with a PLM Serial Board. For some testing. I have a internal photo of one of the converted ones. I believe there are also some overseas vendors doing the modification to the original HUB. For use as a PLM on other countries power standards. The newer 2245-222 has a completely different PCB. All functions on one square PCB.

I did see a 2245-222 HUB failure. On a less than two year old module. Posted today on the Smarthome Forums.

After I posted the link. I had a feeling it may have been a setup. As dad jumped in awfully quickly.

Is the thermostat battery operated? You maybe able to connect the W and R/RC terminals to the IOLinc Sensor and Ground connections. This would require the old control voltages are no longer on the thermostat.

That is a strange one. The manual indicates both the battery and external supply can be connected at the same time. What voltage was the external supply?

Alexia also sometimes makes a poor choice. I found this about a child asking to "play Digger Digger" and getting porn results. http://www.marketwatch.com/story/amazon-alexa-gets-childs-request-really-wrong-offers-up-porn-2016-12-30