Brian H

You manually linked the two modules with the set button sequences and not through the ISY994i? The ISY994i should be the way you link and control modules. The sensors output is a dry contact and does not have any voltage on it. In my tests. The green sensor LED is on the input and can be turned on before the sensor actually switches. If the closure is not a low enough resistance to to trigger the sensed input but still let the green input LED to turn on. If you can do a test that may help. Disconnect the sensor input on the I/OLinc and put a short piece of wire between the sensor input and the ground terminals. Then see if anything has changed.

No 2.3 is not the latest hardware revision. The presently selling 2413S is a 2.5 directly from Smarthome. It has an improved serial port daughter board. That has a better ESD rated serial interface IC and some protection on the serial signals to the outside world. Also C7 and C13 on the main board's power supply. That are more suitable to a switching power supply. I did see the better caps and serial port interface IC on the older serial port daughter board in a V2.3 but not the new daughter board.

I have not gotten one yet. If I do get one I will add my name to the list of those that have gotten it.

Are any of the other dual band modules LEDs flashing Red or Green? To indicate communicating on same or opposite phase of the installations wiring.

If the LED on a module. Blink on traffic could be seeing power line communications or there is noise on the power line causing it to flash. If the LED flashes when you use the modules local switch. Like on a Switchlinc. One of the modules it is a controller for may not be responding back. This is from the Wiki and it says 16GB is the largest SD card that can be used. Last Users manual also covers the SD Card replacement. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY User Guide 4.2.8.pdf

My older 04/02/2012 ISY994iPro has a 1GB SD Card and my newer 04/13/2017 ISY994i has a 4GB SD Card.

The CT-800 has a fixed current setting of .5 Amp to switch it On. You can lower it by winding the wire being sensed around the CT-800 twice for .25 Amps. If the wire you are sensing. Goes to no current when it pauses. Like the motor power. It will go off and maybe what is triggering your m1.

Thank you for the update. Good to read the system is now working OK.

OK. Let us know how it goes. I suspect the replacement will be better. If the old supply has a power LED {some did} it may also be very dim or flashing if the supply has failed.

If the presently sold replacement power supply by UDI is 12VDC 1A. A supply with that specification maybe a good way to go.

The voltage and current of the one you have now. Should be on a label on it. When you test it. Make sure it is supplying some current. It is possible the no load voltage would be 5V but drop if loaded even with a very small load. Well below its rated output current. Try a new power supply. We have seen a few messages here on the supply going bad. Including mine failing twice since I purchased mine in 2012. Flashing power LED is a good indication the supply has failed. The ISY994i has an internal voltage regulator. As it could be powered by the old model 2412S PLM that supplied power through the RS232 port and was around 20VDC. I have seen mentioned here 5V-30V. I personally would not go over 12VDC. I used the ones from my older ISY99i and ISY26. One of mine was 5V 500mA and the other one 5V 1A. The 5V 1 Amp would have a better current margin over what the ISY994i is using. Especially if you have the Z Wave internal board. Mine are 5.5mm Barrel X 2.1mm Center Pin connectors. + on Center pin connector. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/3362-external-power-adapter-voltage-for-an-isy99i/

The Power LED is turned On when ever the power is connected to the ISY994i. If it functions correctly except the power LED is not lighting. It may have a hardware problem in the power on LED circuit. You may want to open a trouble ticket to see what UDI thinks. http://www.universal-devices.com/contact-us

I would agree. You most likely damaged the output of the module and it was shorted. Keeping the light on no matter what it was told to do.

Thanks for the update. Defective module. Was it DOA or an older one used for awhile?

I would put the Black from the fixture to the Load terminal of the module and the white from the fixture to the white from the outlet and to the module. For standard wiring . Is the fixture using incandescent bulbs or is it something like a LED fixture? If it is LED is it specified to work on a dimmer? Is this a new instillation or did it originally have a standard mechanical switch you replaced?

The Insteon one is a 2474D two wire dimmer. Incandescent loads only. Uses Insteon RF only. So another Dual Band Module has to communicate with it.

Glad you got it working. The 30V zener always runs hot. I wounder if the low capacitance of the 470uF/35V made it get even warmer. Due to higher ripple current.

One thing to consider. The I/OLinc Sensor input is for a dry contact Sensor Input to Ground. It has an internal 5V sensing voltage on it. Supplied by a pull up 10K resistor to +5V and a 2.2K in series with the Sensor indicator LED also pulled up to +5V.

Took a look at one of my 2430 Rev 1.0 Controlinc V2 controller. The rectangular 15 30 is a 30V Zener diode. To the right is a 5V Zener diode. If my measurements are correct. Their markings are under the part and you can't see them easily. On the J5 programming header. -5/common/AC line is the left pin. +5 volts is the right pin. The AC Line Input is the common {-} power supply connection. For the +5V and +30V supplies. C2 the 470uF/35V is probably across the 30V zener. If either the 470uF/35V cap or 30V zener is shorted. Killing the +30 volts. The controller will be completely dead. If the 30V zener is open and the voltage went high or the 470uF/35V capacitor has lost capacity . Not sure what may happen. The burning on the PCB is from the 15 30 zener getting hot. I have seen similar marks on the 2456 modules. Some actually reported the diode fell of the pcb due to the heat. The copper in the runs may not be heavy enough to get the heat out from the diode. The 30V 5W one I used. Said you have to lower the rating if the copper runs are too thin to properly remove the heat from the diode. Their are other components that could cause the controller to fail. Someone with a meter and knows how to respect the 120VAC on the supplies may find something else.

The rectangular part marked 15 30 is a 30 volt Zener Diode. I never found the wattage rating of it.. Used in may of the early Insteon Modules like the 2456S3 ApplianceLinc and 2456D LampLinc. They do get hot. The part to the right of it is a diode. Not sure off hand if it is also a Zener. I did find a replacement for the 15 30 Zener as I had one short out in a 2456S3 later revision ApplianceLinc. It was a 30V 5W. I will see if I can find the number. I personally would suspect the 470uF/35V NoVer capacitor to the left of the Zener. I have had some fail in early modules. Or the other electrolytic above the Zener in the photo. The power cycle and wokred again for awhile. Could be the 470uF/35V capacitor or 30V zener getting poorer as it warmed up. Word of warning. From you photos it looks like a Power Line Derived type supply. Be very cautions if you are doing power on measurements. There is 120VAC floating around there and maybe tied to a logic supply. In the 2456S3 I know the +5VDC Logic supply and the + end of the Zener is tied directly to the 120 volt Line connection. It can be measured but caution is needed. J5 is probably the controller chips programming header it should have 5 volts logic supply between the two outside pins. Again line voltage is floating around there. I maybe able to look at one of mine and see if I can check some of the voltages.

Support Ticket is the way to go. With so many topics and issues in threads. I imagine not all posts here can be answered and maybe missed with out a ticket. You didn't do a Delete Modem (PLM) at anytime during your replacement sequence? That would remove all the links in the modules for the PLM and eliminate the links normally in the PLM for the modules in the system.

Have you tried submitting a trouble ticket? https://www.universal-devices.com/contact-us

It looks like it is found and connected. When you do a tools, diagnostics, Show PLM Links Table. Does it show any links in the PLM? The last table you attached (04.19.14PM) seems to have an error in it. Not sure how that happened. The earlier one attached (02.35.00PM) looks like your PLM has no links in it at all.

They where added in the 5 branch. I don't remember exactly which version. I know both are in the 5.0.16B https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/27669-release-5016b-rc1-is-now-available/

I use my XTBM X10 signal meter to see if their is any noise in the X10/Insteon power line signal area. Since I still have my XTB-IIR repeater {it respects Insteon} in use and have a large X10 signal in most of my home. I can also read the X10 signal strength with and without a particular electronic device connected. One of my LED TV's outlet. Shows 9.9 Volts X10 with it unplugged and 7.5 Volts with it plugged in. It is a power line signal absorber.