Everything posted by Brian H
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
I am glad you are up and running again. Will be watching for your findings on the old one.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
Thanks for the information. I thought we where using the Serial PLM and an ISY994i. The V2.5 has power supply updates like the larger capacity and different series caps. Should be more reliable. Can't say about the USB Daughter Board as except for one old 2412U. All the PLMs I have information and dissections are for Serial Port PLMs. No experience with Indigo so this may not be pertinent. The new PLM has a new six digit Insteon ID. The modules being controlled may have the original PLM ID in their link database. So you may have to update their link databases.
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Garage Door Sensor gets out of sync
Another option. Would get the original magnetic switch in the early Garage Door Kits. So you didn't have to use the Trigger Reverse function. I had both a NO and NC connection you could choose from.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
A 2413U will not work with an ISY994i. Is this PLM for a different project not using an ISY994i? How did you get a USB model to work with an ISY994i? C7 and C13 are the higher size capacitors and the TY series designed for switching power supplies.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
OK. Let us know how it goes.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
If you are using a 2413U and different software. Not an ISY994i connected to it. Then the 2413U maybe what you do need. The 2413U is a USB interface with a USB B type connection. It can not interface with an ISY994i as it is strictly a serial port using an RJ45 network style connector and a network cable between the PLM and the ISY994i. Page 17 of this thread has a photo in a response showing both the older and newer version of the serial daughter board. A response on page 19 shows the new version of the serial daughter board. I have seen some excess stock older 2412 PLMs being sold on Ebay by Smartenit. Main board only, Serial and USB. The label on the unit may not be the same as the model you purchased. As exchanging the daughter board. Changed its interconnected type. If in doubt. You can see both types for sale on the Smarthome web site and even download the manuals. The USB model also needs a USB Chip Driver on the computer as the USB PLM has a internal serial to USB chip on its output.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
2413U USB PLM? The PLM is not being used by an ISY994i? As it uses a 2413S Serial PLM. The 2450 I/OLinc also the 27 Ohm resistors in it. So you could compare them to your PLM. It also has a switching power supply in it but the DC filter is not the same configuration.
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Access Points Needed Any More?
The V1.? 2443 Access Points the white LED will flash on Insteon Tragic. The V2.? don't seem to flash for me. You can always run the builtin 4 TAP/Beacon communications tests between them or any other Dual Band Modules. To see if they can communicate. The checking the Hop count for changes. Should also show some information on if they are helping. The Scene tests may also yield some information. With and without the Access Points in use.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
Shorting I4 may help. Both I3/AN1 and I4/AN2 are a high impedance input and subject to noise. Testing mine found that all I had to do was touch the case and if they where not terminated. Resulted in a flood of random message (LED on side flashing) being constantly sent. If the wiring to the dry contacts you are using with I3 are long or near a noise source. I suppose it may pickup noise but the resistor should calm it down.
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Access Points Needed Any More?
If the 2443 Access Points are any revision 2. Label on the back should show revision. They are built on the same 2413 base board as the 2413S PLM we use and subject to the same capacitor issues. So your tests may show no added communications issues if removed and already are starting to fail.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
The pass through outlet on the EZIO2x4 is an older 2412 base board. The 2413 base boards had issues and Smartenit went back to the old 2412 boards made for them. PLM using the utility does not matter. Unless the PLM has bad caps. This is for the I1 input and dry contacts. https://smartenit.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/EZIO2X4-Dry-Contact-Connection.jpg. I 2 would be the same as it is also an isolated input. I1+ should always read 5 volts. I1- should change from close to 5 volts contacts open and nearly 0 volts when the contacts are closed. I think the v2.03b had its screen name changed to Smartenit. I have a copy of 2.02e and its screen still said Simplehomenet. Digital inputs. You connect the digital input (I3 or I4) to the digital source signal and the GND terminal for the digital sources common. Remember a digital signal is from 0 volts to 5 volts. 0-1 volts is Off and 3-5 volts is On is the way I see digital levels. Smartenit says 0-1 volts is On and 3-5 volts is Off. In their users sheet for the module. The utility does allow you to set the input to an Analog. If you really want to use a digital input and dry contact. Connect the digital input to 5 volts through a pull up resistor and the dry contacts to the digital input and GND. The input will be inverted. Open will be On and closed will be off. Not recommended due to noise and possible 5 volt supply protection issues. You could pull the input to GND with a resistor and then use the contacts to switch the 5 volts into the input. That way open contacts would be Off and closed On. The Smartenit information does not follow what I call a digital signal. So the On and Off status maybe reversed. Depending on how they implemented the signals status.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
There is no I3- terminal. It is one of the two Digital- Analog inputs and are not an isolated input. Where you can tie the + input to +5 and the - input to GND through the dry contacts. I1and I2 have both a + and - terminal.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
2.03 was on the SimpleHome Net Forums. That is now defunct. SourceForge where I may have gotten 2.03 also now has 2.0. https://sourceforge.net/projects/shnutilitysuite/ The version on the sales site is 2.0 and I don't think there is much change between the versions. Are I3 or I4 being driven by a Digital signal driver? Is your EZIO2x4 built on the older power line only 2412 base board or the 2413 Dual Band base board? If it is a 2413 base board. It will be subject to the same power supply capacitor issues we have seen in the 2413S PLMs.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
Is the module stable if you have no wires on it? Like unplug the wiring plug from the module so no wires are connected. I did see reports of a floating Analog Input causing issues and why connecting to the GND was recommended if not being used. If it is one of the Analog inputs. It is 0-5VDC. Can't say for sure if a higher voltage spike may have effected it.
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
This is probably a stupid question on my part. You are using the GND terminal on the unit and not a safety or power line Ground?
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
What revision SHN Utility? My 2.03b and an old EZIO2X4. Shows two Analog and two Isolated inputs. AN1, AN2, Input 1 and Input 2. A configuration area where you have to enable the Analog Inputs. That are defaulted to Off and can't be read. If you are not using the second input. You don't have anything on I2+ or I2-?
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Trouble getting EZIO2x4 to read inputs reliably
No 10K resistor needed for the Isolated inputs. They have a internal resistor to limit the current into the Opto isolator. 3-30 volts DC is the input range. Connect I1+,I2+ to the +5 volt terminal. Dry connects from I1-,I2- and the GND terminal. If you are only using one of the two isolated inputs. The second one should not have to have its inputs tied to ground. Tie the analog inputs if not used to GND terminal. No resistor needed. You asked about the Analog input connections. The analog inputs are between the Analog terminal and the Ground terminal.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
Let us know how it progresses. The 27 Ohm 2W is a good choice. The 1 Watt may also be OK. I did see a reverse engineered schematic of the 2856S Icon On Off module. As that 27 ohm resistor is in many of the older Insteon modules. By the physical size. They though 2 watts.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
OK. The voltages you posted are a good reference as to what you want to see. When testing you don't have to have the daughter board connected. It would probably get in the way and make it harder to troubleshoot. The C7-C13 voltage maybe slightly higher with no daughter board. As the unregulated +12 volts powers the serial or USB daughter board. That has its own +5 volt regulator. If the PLM you are testing is V2.3 or lower. On the serial board you can measure the unregulated +12 volts. The metal tab on the regulator IC is common and one of the unused F1 Fuse positions is the voltage into the board.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
C3 High Voltage supply looks fine. C7 and C13 unregulated 12 Volts is fine and typical. C8 +5VDC Logic Supply is with in normal tolerance. C11 Zero Crossing Detection. Probably fine. I looked at the circuit for the older 2412S. It was around that voltage. Did you have the serial daughter board connected when the LED faded out? I think I saw a post here. With out the daughter board connected. The LED did not light but that is a fading memory. I had seen some reports of the serial chip failing. The V2.3 had an improved IC on it. V2.4 and V2.5 have a new serial board. That has the new serial port IC and some signal protection to the outside world. I did a current test on my 2413S in use with the ISY994i. During a system query. There where short bursts of 600mA AC to 900mA AC .
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
Well I did a test. 2413S PLM not connected to serial port, just powered up. True RMS Meter reading total AC current into the AC input and calculating the voltage on a 27 Ohm resistor and AC input current Just powered up and not processing anything. About 50mW. So for testing a 1/4W maybe OK for tests.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
You may want to get the Power Integration data sheet on the LNK354 switching supply IC for reference. https://www.power.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/lnk353_354.pdf Hopefully the Drain and Source of the internal power FET are not leaky or shorted. The Amazon resistors maybe too low a wattage. 1/4 Watt may overheat. Making it hard to determine if the problem was caught and it just over heated.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
Found this. I would check the dimensions as I don't know about the space to mount it horizontally like the later revision models. https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/united-chemi-con/ekzm500etd101mhb5d?qs=LzZkAsBncKb0dUGUMFIpLg%3D%3D
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
Looked at a board. Mine are screened R1 and R10. I don't know if the schematic part numbers where what is screened on the board. The original hardware versions where 10uF 35V capacitors. So 10uF 50V should have worked. IMHO. They tried to fix the power supply issues. By increasing the capacity to 100uF and 35V then 50V. Using the same Fujicon RK series capacitors. Starting at V2.3. They changed to a Fujicon TY series 100uF/50V. The TY is rated to be in a switching power supply. I am not too clear on the schematics parts labels matching what is screened on the PCB. I will see if I can find anything on the 27 Ohm. It was used in many modules. I did see it called a 27 Ohm 1/2 watt Anti Surge on the 2412 main board in the developers notes. Unfortunately it was a surface mount and only for the small current Zero Crossing supply. The Panasonic part number would not be a good one for a 2413. I would measure the original resistor and see if it is open or changed value. As the goop the put around the wires turns brown or blackish and maybe on the resistor also.
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Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails
There is a power supply area schematic in page 12 of this very long thread. Post 282. The rev 1.1 is the later of the two. Yes it is a 27 Ohm resistor. Red Violet Black 27 Ohms Gold 5%. Used as a fuse and surge reducing. Maybe dark but can you verify it is actually open or very high in resistance. It may have some flame rating and don't know the wattage off hand. Depends on which resistor is burned as to what it was protecting. My guess is R2 in the schematic as it is in the main power supply. R10 in the schematic is for the small Zero Crossing supply. Was the 10uF/35V you used for C7. The input for the filter? My thought are it was not a good capacitor for switching power supply use. It failed and maybe overloading the R2 protective resistor. Or you had a short from replacement soldering. Can't say to what 100uF/50V capacitors being used lately. As some of the originals use are no longer manufactured. One made for switching supplies, 105C or higher and long life ratings would be best.