sorka

I didn't know that it had gone off line and missed some important notifications that left a very expensive package on my front porch for far longer than I would have liked. Maybe you could send a "Test" email to everyone using the service to let them know it's offline and to please find another alternative.

Yup. No longer working for me. Time to switch to gmail.

It's really unfortunate that they just didn't provide a new state. So in addition to WET, DRY, HEARTBEAT, they could have added WET-LATCHED or something like that.

There's a sealed Rev 2.1 on ebay.

Trying to figure out exactly what version so I know what to buy. There's a 2.2 on ebay right now. Also found some sealed ver 1.05 sensors which are older than any I have. Does anyone know if these are equivalent to the 2.0 sensors?

Does anyone know if this change happened every version greater than 2.0 which is what Insteon told me? I have a version 2.6 that has the same issue that was out in the garage that was also left in the on state for probably several years. I need to get rid of the existing 3 sensors I already had that have this issue as they cannot be relied upon since they only send their signal once and if that signal misses due to interference or an ISY reboot, then they will miss the leak unlike the 2.0 sensors that keep sending the signal while wet.

I have one for a similar use where I've extended contacts several feet below keeping the unit well above any danger of getting wet.

I like how the 2.0 sensors work. I like the battery life so it seems for me the best option is to put a persistent search on ebay and just watch for the version I need. But I'm also open to other options out there. What are these tag sensors and how long do the batteries last, how much are they, and how do they integrate with the ISY?

I strongly suspect that some customers just blindly linked some i/o lincs as responders to the rev 2.0 sensors and so that when a real leak happened and a valve was shut off that when it dried out, the valve turned back on continuing the water damage. In their attempt to avoid liability for this situation, they made a change that created yet more situations where water damage can now happen. 1) Either because a user familiar with 2.0 sensors bought 2.1 or greater rev sensors and didn't know they have to make sure the state is OFF when installed, or 2) if the signal fails due to interference or whatever, the one time leak signal is missed and never resent.

Here's another issue. With Rev 2.0, it keeps sending on events WHILE water is detected. The 3.0 ones don't so if you bring the 3.0 sensor out of wireless range, and then trigger it on, and then bring it back into range, the leak is never detected. So in the normal case should the the message fail due to interference or because your ISY is down or you're rebooting it, then the detected leak is lost.

I left 1 star review on Amazon along with others that had the exact same complaint.

So does anyone know if the state can be set back to off remotely?

Like I said, I've read the manual for the product. I just didn't re-read it every time I ordered an extra sensor.

What is a QSG? And re-read my post. I don't RE-READ manuals for products that I already own, have lots of, and have used for years.

The point is that the program is triggered on the sensor sends an ON. If it's already on, the program doesn't doesn't trigger.

So apparently I already own one of these and didn't realize it. Last year I bought one and put it behind my built in refrigerator after the ice supply line sprung a leak. Well it's in the ON position now and it probably has been like that since I installed it since I pressed the button to trigger the program and left it in the ON state. Had there been a leak, it would have never been detected. Now with the skirt removed, I can see it all the way back there and I can tell it's bone dry. Does anyone know a way to reset this remotely? Otherwise I'll have to pull it out which is about 90 minute process.

It's NOT in the manual. I don't make a habit of reading the manual for extra copies of devices that I already own. Now had they called this a different kind of sensor or changed the model number, then I would have looked at the manual.

Right. I'm just pointing out had I not known this was a change, I would not have known I needed to reset the sensor and would have been in a state that had a serous damage causing leak started, the sensor would NOT have detected it. There's no way way to justify that this is a good change.

What's even more messed up, is that if the sensor is in the ON state and you reset your ISY, there's no status. The sensor IS in the on state but you have no clue what it is so now you have to go toggle it a few times to get the status and make SURE it's in the off state. It's TOTALLY screwed up!

Had I NOT discovered this and just blindly added these and a leak occurred, then I would never have known I needed to hit the reset button as my program is triggered to activate when the leak is detected but these now work as if they continually detect a leak when they're not really. This completely removes functionality that previously existed with no way around it.

I have 10 rev 2.0 sensors. When they detect water, the status goes ON. When the water is removed and dry, the status goes OFF by itself. These new sensors only go on and never go off when dry. It seems you have to press the set button to get them to toggle back to the off state. Smarthome says it's because they can't have responders turning water back on when dryness is detected for "security" reasons to which I replied what moron would directly link a leak sensor to a responder rather than going through a program. So now all 5 have to go back to Amazon and I'll need to scavenge Rev 2.0 sensor from ebay.....unless someone knows a trick to fixing the 3.0 so they work properly?

One more thing. I'm assuming I can't get push notifications from myQ to the ISY that are timely to the second so I'm going to route my magnetic contact switches to digital inputs on my CAI8 after all so my ISY knows exactly when my door opens or closes. I need this to trigger various external lighting scenes at home when the garage door opens at night.

So I rolled the dice yesterday and drove a 90 mile round trip to the nearest Liftmaster dealer and purchased two 8550WLB openers with 7 foot solid rail kits. Installed the first one last night. Night and difference in quality of everything compared to the Mattel look and feel of the Genie and the soft start/stop is real and progressive unlike the lurchy two speed affair of the cheap Genie. One thing I will give the Genie is that the Aladdin app shows you the wifi connection status and the signal strength which the myQ app doesn't. Anyways, I did the same test this morning that failed on the Genie. I setup a rule to close at a specific time and unplugged the cable modem 3 minutes before the rule was to execute. Time came and as expected the rule failed and the door did not close. I waited a few more minutes and then plugged the cable modem back in. Waited for it to come up so everything had a connection. Now already there's a difference. myQ still shows the door status as open while the Genie is in a state that says door status unknown and that door must be operated locally to re-establish state. So I tried to close the door with myQ and it failed. So far same as the Genie which never recovered even an hour later. But 10 minutes after plugging the cable modem in, I tried a second time to close and this time it worked fine. The system was able to recover and I think I know why. The Liftmaster knows it's open/close state which is required for the TTC feature to work from the control panel which the Genie doesn't have. What's also interesting is that the Homelink communication is two way with the security 2.0 feature. On our Prius, when the door is opening or closing, the homelink display shows and up arrow or down arrow in the direction of the door motion for exactly as long as the door is moving which is pretty cool. So I ordered my Autolocks after this since I'm happy with the openers. I know many folks have complained about the wifi reliability. I'm hoping mapping a VLAN to the garage ceiling access point that is dedicated to the opener and less than 10 feet away that it will be reliable. Some wifi devices, like my ring doorbells don't work well on mesh with multiple APs broadcasting the same SSIDs.

Is this the standalone myQ or the myQ built into the opener?

No kidding. After the failed, I put the 3 inputs from my photobeams on my CAI8 (which I'm powering via POE from my Unifi switch) and the house water control (1 in and 1 out) also on the CAI8. For the garage doors, I figured I'd just replace them after 22 years with modern units that have control built in. It's unfortunate non of them work locally/offline and get tripped up when the internet or power goes out. Half tempted to just keep the old Liftmasters after all and just hook the CAI8 up to them as well.