Athlon

Although I'm not home right now to take a look, there are white neutrals in box 2 (3 cables all together), and the light the other switch in box 2 controls is on the same circuit breaker. Lucky me! Where do I go from here?

@asbril Certainly a possibility for me. Haven't had time to take a close look, but I would need them in almond. I like puzzles, so I'll likely keep trying to figure out how to get my Insteon dimmers to work here.

@dbuss - Thank you for your quick reply. I've tried all sorts of combinations after reading the thread you pointed me to with no success. Here's what I've learned about my current wiring: Box 1, Cable 1: W: Connected to B from Cable 2 R: Connected to original dimmer red wire B: Load, connected to original dimmer second red wire Box 1, Cable 2: W: Powered, connected to original dimmer black wire B: Connected to W from Cable 1 Box 2: B: Connected to black screw on original switch R: Connected to brass screw opposite black screw on original switch W: Connected to brass screw on other end of original switch There are also 2 more cables in box 2, by the way. Some of those wires are connected to another 3-way switch for another light away from the one I'm dealing with here. If needed, I can use one or more of those wires if this will be where I put the 2nd Insteon switch for the light I'm working on here.

I have two 2476D's I would like to replace a current 3-way dimmer/toggle switch setup. On one end is where I removed an old dimmer that had three wires coming out of it and no labels. Red, white and black. Connecting the same color wires from the 2476D does not work the light. Here is what is in that box in the wall (Box 1): 2 cables Cable 1: W, R and B wires Cable 2: W and B wires The W from cable 1 is connected to the B from cable 2. The remaining R, B and W wires were connected to the old dimmer. Here is what is in the other box in the wall (Box 2): 3 cables All wires from cables 2 and 3 are connected to themselves and another 3-way switch for another load I am not replacing for now. Cable 1: W, R and B wires The W and R were connected to brass screws on the switch I removed. The B was connected to a black screw on the switch I removed. How should I wire the two 2476Ds? (Connecting W, R and B wires to each other at each end does not work.)

This is great info!! Thank you @apostolakisl!!!

Do you know if the GC unit can learn very long IR codes? My understanding is the Mitsubishi Slim remotes sends a number of codes to the units all at once - temp, heat or cool and some other info for example. Much more than a typical IR remote sends. When I use my Mitsubishi remote, I can see my IR repeater in my home theater blink a lot more than it does when using my Harmony remote, for example. I'll see if I can find out more about this today....

I also have Mr. Slims in my home (2 'outside' units and 5 'inside' units. Currently I control them with the remotes that came with them. They are fantastic units. Being relatively new to ISY, I've also started wondering if I could integrate them. I found this: Remotec Z-Wave ZXT-120 IR Extender for Air Conditioners. I can't see where there would be any feedback, but I'm thinking they could at least control my units using my ISY.

This has not happened to me, but in your shoes I would: 1) Disable and then reactivate the 'ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2' skill in Echo (not the devices) 2) As an experiment, try deleting a device or two in your portal, and then adding them back in again to see if your Echo sees them after you do that.

I'm sure some of the more experienced people will jump in here too, but I'll ask an obvious question. Are the devices you want to control with your Echo listed in your ISY Portal? (Select Tool/Connectivity/Amazon Echo)

Headline on the website pointed to: "Experience Alexa on Your Mobile Device or Mac Without Buying an Amazon Echo Speaker Using Reverb" I'm guessing no...