Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Universal Devices Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Geddy

Administrators
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Geddy

  1. @apostolakisl I might open a support ticket for this just as an issue that seems to have been around a little while. I recall this being mentioned... https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/45675-unexpected-application-error-expandcollapse/

    I know you and @bmercier had discussed this previously about having a expand/collapse button on the UI, but this sounds like a refresh issue.

    Have you tried on a different browser and have the same result?

  2. 2 hours ago, apostolakisl said:

    Changing batteries once per year is really something I am not interested in doing

    Only one device needed new batteries in a year. Others are still going strong almost 2 years later (and seem to be good for a while more even).

    Glad your wireless tags are permanently powered…only some of mine were and they still will drop from the hub so I have to unplug occasionally (again…they aren’t super far from the hub…why do they drop?). The battery wireless tags seem to die every 3 months and I’ve trIed various brands of batteries….enough to where I just toss the tag away when the battery dies now since I refuse to change those batteries.

    Hopefully wireless tags get support again soon, but the product is not reliable (IMO) to be willing to continue to try to use in my situation. I’m sure everybody has different experience. Just sharing mine.

  3. 55 minutes ago, apostolakisl said:

    Will yo-link do resolution like that?

    Not user definable like wireless tags are. That's one point where YoLink is behind, but like @Ross points out I've had much better reliability with YoLink than I did with wireless tag sensors (and I've used battery and usb powered sensors). To me the range and stability is much better with YoLink. I still have some wireless sensors running, but the errors I get with the hub and links to the sensors (within a mid size house) were too much for me. The YoLink updates on its own schedule, but seems to be if/when the temperature fluctuates within a few degrees. I don't really keep up with it (certainly not every 30 seconds). Mine is mostly if the fridge/freezer crash. I have a few in rooms just to keep up with how much the room temp changes during the day, but rarely look at them. Having a display on the device is nice if I walk by one I can just glance at it's current temp. The product offerings from YoLink are what won me over.

    1 hour ago, apostolakisl said:

    I also really like the wireless tag graphing they do on their app and website. Does Yo-link have all the features for zooming in/out changing scale and whatnot like wireless tag?

    Yes, it graphs well. It will do current day or historical. And you can zoom in/out as you wish. You can move along the line to see the time of the temp change.

    20251022-YoLink-Graph.JPEG

    I started with the hub + 2 temp/humidity sensors from Amazon since it would deliver quick and allowed free returns if it didn't work like I wanted. Then added more sensors after I was pleased. Now I've got ~10 temp, 4 water, and 2 vibration.

    Also, battery life has been great! My fridge batteries got low at just about 1 year so I replaced them. The freezer batteries lasted ~19 months. The room sensors are still on original batteries at 22 months and show "medium high" in IoX through the plugin. So I expect they'll last another year at least.

  4. @andrew77 Have you happened to have updated to Alexa+? If so, tell it to revert. Alexa+ is causing issues with home automation systems (there have been other posts here about it).

    Try deleting the "basement" (50515) scene from the UD Portal portal. It should remove it from the Alexa app, but might need to delete it in there too. Since it's a "scene" I'm not sure how it shows up on the app these days. Old posts suggested scenes aren't displayed in the Alexa app and since they got rid of the website access it's a little more difficult to clean up devices.

    More than likely Amazon has updated Alexa just enough that when you have one device that is "basement" and another that is "basement forty percent" it could be considering if you set the "basement" to 40% that's the same device as the "basement forty percent". Does it work with other percent requests? Or is it ONLY the 40% trigger?

    Do you have multiple devices in this scene or is this just controlling a single device to a set % of brightness? If it's just a single device then I wouldn't have scenes for set brightness and just tell Alexa to set it to that percent. I have a few dimmers exposed to Alexa and just say, "Alexa, set x-lamp/light to y%".

  5. @haroldunger I ran Insteon leak sensors years ago and remember these two threads helping...they might be way overkill, but worth reviewing in your situation.

    I've since changed to YoLink leak sensors and they work great with the eisy+yolink plugin and (really just the YoLink app) for alerts. But I use YoLink for several other things so already had a hub and the plugin.

    Check these out:

  6. 4 hours ago, Michaelv said:

    It does not detect a single tap.

    If the system isn't receiving a single tap then it's possible the switch is defective. I think there have been other reports of switches failing this way. I think @apostolakisl might have been one in the past to comment that they've had devices fail this way. I think it was around dimmer types.

    I recall there had been some discussion when Polisy and eisy were released about them being quicker than the ISY994 and not catching a double tap, but ended up that the device itself might have failed.

    Since you can control the switch from admin console and if the switch does power the load it's connected to then I think it's the internal components that don't push the Insteon signal out to the PLM.

  7. 9 hours ago, ctviggen1 said:

    But when did we get scheduled days?

    As long as I can remember. It is kind of an oddball option (IMO) since automation is ongoing; when you uncheck it the program looks for a specific date. It is checked by default on new programs (like "All"). If you uncheck "daily" it looks for a specific day for the program to evaluate on. Leaving it checked allows it to run "daily". If you uncheck "All" then you can check the specific days of the week (if you had a M/W/F schedule you would just select those days, but still leave "daily" checked so it ran every M/W/F.

    9 hours ago, ctviggen1 said:

    Changing everything to scenes will be quite a bit of work,

    If you keep the number of devices low (like you have) then more than likely you won't have an issue. But it really causes problems (at least has in the past) when you have a program that triggers devices directly in rapid succession. Simply adding a "wait" can help eliminate possible Insteon traffic issues, but also adds another problem that if the program evaluates during a wait and becomes false (or the opposite of your "IF" condition) then the process might stop midway through the cycle. This is where scenes come in handy that turning on 1 scene (with many devices) will just turn on when the program triggers it. And scenes can have retries if a device doesn't come on (or react) it might retry to make sure it triggers. It's a personal preference at this point. If you adjust your program and it triggers okay with the few things you're turning on then I wouldn't make wholesale changes to make scenes out of everything. Just if you run into issues of only 2-3 of the 4 devices turning on or off then you've got to consider the scene as an option.

    I'm like you in that I have not designed scenes in my system (aside from some keypad scenes). I usually only trigger 2 or 3 devices with a program and mostly in the off direction so it's not an issue for "popcorn" if something doesn't turn off exactly at the same time. Just a personal preference (again).

  8. 10 hours ago, ctviggen1 said:

    image.png

    @slimypizza is correct - This program is wrong. You have "on" but nothing after it. You've unclicked the "daily" button and it's trying to do it for a specific date, but you've apparently removed the date.

    Like how you have it: 20251017-program-not_daily.jpg

    What you would expect to see: 20251017-program-daily.jpg

    The biggest thing about getting program help is understanding that when you share programs as screen shots it makes it a lot more difficult and time consuming for somebody to help. Sharing as text allows people to edit what you should see in a program. When @paulbates asked for it to be shared as text you only shared one of the two programs. Why not share both? They're equally important.

    Lastly, beyond just enabled and disabled programs you need to also make sure that the folder they're in does not have folder conditions that make the folder false (i.e. not allowing any underlying program to run).

    1 hour ago, ctviggen1 said:

    I have the Dog lights program to turn on/off the 4 switches for outside lights. I've had 5 switches, and I'd like to keep that option open too, and maybe even 6 switches is a possibility.

    One more thing...when you get to this many devices you might want to put a short wait between them so the Insteon traffic doesn't go bouncing into itself all at once. This is why it's suggested to make a scene. As a scene it will all happen at the same time (or near enough...I doubt the dogs care about the popcorn effect).

  9. 1 minute ago, peterathans said:

    they don't pass the WAF test

    They shouldn't cause issues being missing as long as the programs continue to work and there are no errors causing the system to loop.

    The underlying question is how strong is your z-wave network?

    If you've gone okay since you took the holiday decore down (assuming ~10 months ago) then it's fine. Otherwise, these modules do help keep your z-wave network in a good mesh setup by being available to relay signals to other devices. The z-wave network will heal if/when these are missing. If these are outlet/plugs is there an out of the way area they could be "installed" to meet the WAF test?

    8 minutes ago, peterathans said:

    And I'd prefer to not make two separate programs.

    Understood, but unless you've got hundreds of programs what is the risk of splitting them into a new program? Just copy existing and remove the items that aren't being used all year from one and the all year from the other program. If worried about impact they cause then splitting the program is super simple and probably more favorable to passing the WAF test than the alternative.

  10. @srjacob FYI - removed the .zip file you added and just put the image and log file. Usually better not to use .zip files unless they're huge. Not many will download .zip files for risk of threats inside them. Images are fine to upload as an image and .log files are fine to upload.

    Typically the exclamation points means IoX is not able to communicate with the device. Close admin console and make sure the plugin is setup correctly. Check in the plugin (web access) that the nodes are found and correct. Maybe restart the plugin. Then re-open admin console and see if the problem is corrected.

    Remember if you have admin console open and you change something in the plugin you must always restart the admin console for most changes to be read. That's why it's often suggested not to have both open at the same time.

    Lastly, please include what device and firmware (actual version number) you're using. It might also help to include the plugin version number. Be sure to give actual numbers and not just say "current firmware/plugin" as that's not helpful months down the road if somebody finds this post and thinks they have a similar issue, but firmware or plugin versions might have changed.

  11. On 10/11/2025 at 5:26 PM, MFBra said:

    Alexa devices I'm talking to, I have 4 (3 distinct models : 1 3rd Gen, 1 Dot and 2 Spots)

    Thanks a lot for the additional information...very helpful. 

    As @Lore points out Alexa+ has corrupted some home automation processes. Make sure you're not on Alex+ (or whatever it's called). There is a post somewhere about this and how to revert. I've not tried the new system yet so not sure how it reacts and not sure how to get back to the basic Alexa/Echo setup. If you do revert you might need to re-link the UD skill.

    It seems things should be working. Are you able to control the devices from another app? UD Mobile? Or even able to reliably control these devices from the Admin Console? It could be a network issue (unlikely, but possible). Or it could be a communication issue with the PLM. Trying to control the other devices 100% activation with other apps or admin console might help determine if you have Insteon communication issue. If you're having to try multiple times with other options you might need to check for noise (see the wiki for troubleshooting suggestions). If it's a bad PLM there are steps for troubleshooting that too in the wiki (I believe).

    https://wiki.universal-devices.com/

    It's strange that Alexa would have issues on first attempt, but then ultimately work. It's likely noise in the lines. Either something has been added that causes noise or something is failing and suddenly adding noise to the power line in the property. Key culprits have been garage doors, failing phone chargers, high amperage appliances. It's not easy to pinpoint so don't just look at new things added. 

  12. 2 hours ago, Scotch99 said:

    How do I get the eisy back online so portal integrations will work?

    What you describe above sounds like a failed or corrupted update that somehow allowed the eisy to become visible again (without you doing too much other than what you described). I would suggest opening a support ticket with UD to have them review your information and give you troubleshooting tips.

    https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets

    I'm not sure what OS you had if you were still on 5.8.4. It's possible you had an updated OS that the update attempted to run and what you describe about the portal being available in eisy-ui is something that @bmercier commented on elsewhere in a reply to somebody. But if you're not able to get into eisy-ui to approve the portal connection then I'm not sure what to suggest.

    Don't go trying random SSH commands until you've opened a ticket and UD tells you if you need to connect via SSH and they'll tell you what commands to issue. If you just randomly find commands mentioned on other replies they might not directly relate to your issues and could put your system into more trouble than it might be currently. 

  13. @cmaciag it's been a while, but I don't think there was ever a method to migrate from PG2 to PG3. I know there was going from PG3 to PG3x that's outlined in the wiki, but not seeing anything for PG2 to PG3/PG3x so don't think it is/was possible.

    You might be able to open a support ticket with UD to see if there is anything they can do with this, but I think there's such a huge change from PG2 to PG3x that it's best to buy them specifically for the eisy and install them fresh. 

    Open a support ticket here: https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets

    On 10/7/2025 at 12:59 PM, cmaciag said:

    is there a way to reset password for PG2?

    I'm sure there is/was, but it's been so long since I used it and was on Polisy at the time so not sure what the process would be. If you can log into PG2 there might be a menu to change the password. If you never changed the password maybe try admin/admin for the default. 

  14. On 10/7/2025 at 4:22 PM, Guy Lavoie said:

    My reason for starting this thread is that I'd like to see what people are doing for backup.

    At the top level of just the file level of backup...since I will make random changes or programs to help others here just about anytime I open Admin Console I run a backup right away. That way I know I have a "that moment" backup to rever to if something I do goes south.

    Otherwise, if it's just for personal change reasons I always make sure to make a backup after I make a change in something (either device setting or program change). Again, so I know I have a backup right then. 

    All my backups are saved to a Dropbox folder so they're available on other computers I have so if my primary computer crashes the backups are available. 

    On 10/7/2025 at 4:22 PM, Guy Lavoie said:

    actual operational backup, in case our main controller fails (failed upgrade or whatever)

    Operationally I have 1 backup PLM that is "NIB" (new in box) that I got from Insteon before they closed so it has a couple of years on it being in the box. I have a backup serial conversion cable in case my current cable from eisy to PLM goes bad.

    I have a box of "spare" Insteon devices that would replace the most used devices in the house. It's not a large box, but it's enough to replace devices should they fail and get me back up and running quickly rather than having to order new from Insteon (again, from before their close when items were more difficult to source than they are currently). 

    Z-wave - I only have a small number of devices in use that if they die they won't be replaced. They aren't mission critical currently and only used in random programs.

    Zigbee - never got into this one. Only have one device and that's just a thermometer/humidistat device so if it goes south I'd probably never know. I only got it for testing Zigbee when it went live.

    UD Portal - I'm not sure what you mean by having to recreate definitions if UD moves your license to a new UUID. I think they made a process that you can migrate the license to a new device and it does move everything over. If you have them manually move it then I do think you have to recreate everything. 

    Gret thought and conversation start. I probably don't fit the mold of so many here that tend to have things so tightly integrated and reliant on commingling different systems. I'm no ultra power user, by any means. If my system went down (for a few hours, or days) I would be able to manually turn on any light in the house that I would need on (or off). My eisy and Insteon devices are more for convience and my automation is built around 7+ years of how we want our house to look/feel during the day and based on where we are in the house. It's not overly complicated and just works for us. 

  15. @MFBra or @zorax2 Please give more details so others might be able to help. But there have been reports of the new Alexa+ is having issues with home automations or skills in general (Other posts on the forums have mentioned issues). 

    Please post more about your situation:

    UD Device in use?

    Firmware number (specific number not just "current"/"latest")?

    What kind of devices are not responding (Insteon or other tech)?

    Are you controlling an actual device, program, or scene?

    Always best to include more information rather than just saying, "something isn't working 100% of the time". It's kind of hard to troubleshoot...that's probably why there were no replies to initial post a couple of weeks ago.

    On 9/28/2025 at 12:19 PM, MFBra said:

    How can I troubleshoot it?

    Simple troubleshooting:

    • Power cycle Alexa device(s)
    • Powercycle UD Device
    • Control device with other method (UD Mobile, Admin Console, Physical switch)
    • Confirm UD Portal license is current
    • Confirm UD Portal is using proper device (UUID) and linked to Alexa
      • Look at "My Profile" and see that preferred UUID is correct
      • Click on Connectivity and confirm UUID is active UD device
    • Confirm Alexa Skill is linked to UD Portal account - might need to unlink/disable skill and then re-enable to re-link

     

  16. @Jeredvh welcome to the UD forums. I'm not familiar with the product that you're using, but there was another post about this a few years ago that might be worth reviewing. I'm sure some of the same people that lend a hand in that thread might jump in here to offer help. Good luck!

     

  17. On 10/4/2025 at 5:00 PM, smithers102 said:

    Does anyone know why my Eisy would be constantly sending outbound traffic to this IP and Port?

    This looks like you'd be better off asking UD through a support ticket. Since we're all just users helping users we'd only be speculating at the reason for this. Yes, UD does monitor the forums, but with the level of activity of late many posts might be missed or cannot be answered easily in the forum setup. If this is still happening and you've rebooted the device then I would open a support ticket and see if they can help review the logs and let you know what might be going on. Perhaps something got hung in the update.

    https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets

    And yes, @mmb is correct if it's Amazon traffic that UD does use AWS to host the portal and other UD cloud data. 

  18. 1 hour ago, mattfisher said:

    iox launcher does not appear in that list to enable it

    I think you've got to try to run it or download it and within a period of time it might show in the list. I think @Bumbershoot had a post a few years ago about this and might have indicated that the entry only stayed for a period of time (maybe an hour). That if it wasn't shown it would need to run again to be available. I don't run macOS so can't help, but recall there being a post about that in the past. 

  19. @TJF1960 there's been several other posts (they're probably way down in other threads, and let's face it who reads every thread?), but basically "eisy-ui" is still being developed and is not fully functional at this point. It's been in Alpha/Beta testing since June. It has improved based on reading other posts in this area of the forums, but @bmercier has said several times that it's not fully functional yet. 

    As to how to log into the system once you have eisy-ui instaleld you can see that's covered in the wiki:

    https://wiki.universal-devices.com/Eisy:User_Guide#eisy-ui

    Glad the update went well. That bodes well for when I'm able to take the time to be home and dig into it. 

  20. 11 minutes ago, SteveBL said:

    I am having the same problem after upgrading to 6.0.

    What problem is this? There's been several problems in this thread. Which do you have? You can highlight a previous post (a portion similar to what I have done) and click "quote selection" to reference prior comments. 

    12 minutes ago, SteveBL said:

    I can not log on via my PC using my old user name and PW and I'm told to please log on using my portal UN and PW.

    This is expected and outlined in the wiki for eisy-ui.

    Please referr to the wiki: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/Eisy:User_Guide#Changes_introduced_with_eisy-ui

    Glad to hear the update worked well.

  21. 2 hours ago, woodchip said:

    Anyone with thoughts on this? Am I missing something?

    If using https add :8443 to the end of the URL. That might help. No port used is usually looking for :80. Since you're local to the device there's no real need to use https. There's no external comunication happening. Just browsers default to https these days. That's why only local devices need to add specific port that the eisy might be listening to. I think the ultimate goal is to make it the 443 port, but it's been 8443 for a while. 

    If able to access with http that is fine. Don't complicate things that don't need to be complicated.

  22. 3 hours ago, woodchip said:

    Where do I find/access the outputs you suggest I include in ticket?

    Try putting eisy.local:8080 then the above lines in a browser. 

    http://eisy.local:8080/rest/nodes (xml display - I'd save to text file to put on ticket)

    http://eisy.local:8080/rest/profiles?include=nodedefs,editors,linkdefs (copy text and save to text file)

    It should ask you to login to display. Since it's local try the local credentials. 

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.