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Adding new switches to electrical system (Insteon controlled)


ctviggen1

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Posted

I can't figure out where to put this, so I'll put it here.

I have mainly Insteon switches.  We had a set of basement double doors installed in our basement to replace the original ones, which leaked.  If you are looking at the double doors, the original doors opened in the middle and there were two switches on the "left" of the doors.  We were able to get a deal on a mis-ordered set of doors.  The left side is fixed and the right side opens from the farthest right (and not in the center). 

This means the switches to turn on the basement lights and the outside light near these doors are relatively far away from where you enter/exit the basement.  The entire set of switches in the basement are Insteon.

The basement is unfinished, so I can add two new switches on the "right" side of the doors, near where you're entering/exiting the basement.

Do I:

1) Assume someone in the future won't have Insteon and assume they'll have normal switches.  Run wires with this in mind.

2) Assume Insteon or some other controllable switch will be used.  Run wires with this in mind.

#1 entails a lot.  The current system is 4-way, with three switches, for the basement lights.  To run this with normal switches, I have to figure out the original wiring and run another 4-way switch.  That's probably at least one 14/3 romex, or maybe more, depending where the power comes in. 

The outdoor light for the basement doors is simple, as it's currently only a single switch.  But that's 14/3 romex for 3-way switch wiring (assuming someone in the future uses 3-way switches). 

I have to run the romex from the original box to the new box, too, and this is an outside wall.  I'd likely have to diagram the original wiring, cut out the plastic box, run new sets of romex (2 or 3 of them), add in a new plastic box, then configure/test everything (including setting up Insteon and ensuring the wiring makes sense for normal 4- or 3-way switches).

#2 is a lot easier, since I just have to have one 14/2 romex run from really anywhere.

NOTE: We hope to finish the basement at some point, and whatever I do will be fixed at that point.

What have others done in this situation?

Posted
16 minutes ago, ctviggen1 said:

I can't figure out where to put this, so I'll put it here.

I have mainly Insteon switches.  We had a set of basement double doors installed in our basement to replace the original ones, which leaked.  If you are looking at the double doors, the original doors opened in the middle and there were two switches on the "left" of the doors.  We were able to get a deal on a mis-ordered set of doors.  The left side is fixed and the right side opens from the farthest right (and not in the center). 

This means the switches to turn on the basement lights and the outside light near these doors are relatively far away from where you enter/exit the basement.  The entire set of switches in the basement are Insteon.

The basement is unfinished, so I can add two new switches on the "right" side of the doors, near where you're entering/exiting the basement.

Do I:

1) Assume someone in the future won't have Insteon and assume they'll have normal switches.  Run wires with this in mind.

2) Assume Insteon or some other controllable switch will be used.  Run wires with this in mind.

#1 entails a lot.  The current system is 4-way, with three switches, for the basement lights.  To run this with normal switches, I have to figure out the original wiring and run another 4-way switch.  That's probably at least one 14/3 romex, or maybe more, depending where the power comes in. 

The outdoor light for the basement doors is simple, as it's currently only a single switch.  But that's 14/3 romex for 3-way switch wiring (assuming someone in the future uses 3-way switches). 

I have to run the romex from the original box to the new box, too, and this is an outside wall.  I'd likely have to diagram the original wiring, cut out the plastic box, run new sets of romex (2 or 3 of them), add in a new plastic box, then configure/test everything (including setting up Insteon and ensuring the wiring makes sense for normal 4- or 3-way switches).

#2 is a lot easier, since I just have to have one 14/2 romex run from really anywhere.

NOTE: We hope to finish the basement at some point, and whatever I do will be fixed at that point.

What have others done in this situation?

I always recommend wiring for dummy switches and then automating. While more work initially, it'll be cheaper in the long run. 

Since you're already thinking about the future, the likelihood of you selling is greater. Whoever buys the house may not want an automation system. This will either cause a buyer to take off from the cost to get it fixed or cost you to get it fixed prior to selling. As hot as the market is right now, there's no guarantee of that in the future. Put the time and work in today as it'll be cheapest today

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, lilyoyo1 said:

I always recommend wiring for dummy switches and then automating.

Yes, but add Neutral wherever possible. Sometimes electricians only put line and load to switches and that can make automation more complicated.

Posted
22 minutes ago, asbril said:

Yes, but add Neutral wherever possible. Sometimes electricians only put line and load to switches and that can make automation more complicated.

That is a requirement of Canadian Code now, and I believe also in the USA. Neutrals are required to every electrical box.

Posted
24 minutes ago, asbril said:

Yes, but add Neutral wherever possible. Sometimes electricians only put line and load to switches and that can make automation more complicated.

Code requires this already. Wouldn't pass inspection if a permit job. Good advice if he's doing his own wiring though. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'd pick option 2.  Keep in mind that if you want to take your Insteon when you sell, or if the new owner isn't interested in Home Automation, that you can always leave behind Insteon only (without a controller) in select locations.   Just link it all so it works correctly and no controller or other automation is required.

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