Best Epoxy Glue - Real world use

[Teken]

I have a three foot section of plastic vent for my fridge. A few years ago one of the kids must have kicked it and broke part of the cheap aszz plastic mount off.

 

I’ve used various two part glues with very little success!

 

Before I go all in to buy 5-6 different brands of epoxy glue. Does anyone have first hand experience with the following brands and models?!?

 

https://amzn.to/3AAULNs

 

https://amzn.to/2W75i3W

 

https://amzn.to/3lQdA95

 

https://amzn.to/3zyvGBr

[larryllix]

What was the failure of the previous two-part epoxies?

I have used the metal filing based epoxy for some repairs. It is awesome for patching holes in sheet metal and can be machined after to smooth over. The iron filings in it may rust when exposed to dampness though.

 

Epoxy is the wrong type of bonding agent for this. You will have to find out whether the plastic is ABS, PVC, or CPVC, and get a proper cement and coupler for that pipe.  The type of plastic is usually written on every pipe.

HomeDepot or any hardware store that handles plumbing supplies will have those. Those cements typically melt right into the plastic and make a very strong bond.

Edited September 23, 2021 by larryllix

[oberkc]

I have used most, if not all, of those brands.  I have not noticed much difference between them.  If you have already tried a couple and both have failed, I doubt that a different brand will work much better.

You might try "welding" it together with acetone or heat.  I have also seen glues specific to plastic, but cannot offer any experience.

 

[Teken]

Sorry to those if I was unclear as to what broke off so here are a few photos of what I’m dealing with.

This is the lower vent grill for my GE fridge it’s just a cover. The lower left screw hole broke away from the plastic housing.

I’ll need to load a few images separately as the application says I can only do one at a time?!?

[Teken]

Don’t know if that is the part number and type of plastic saying PP?

[Teken]

This is what it should be undamaged.

[Teken]

Broken piece not a very large area to work with.

[Teken]

Past repair that lasted a few months until someone kicked the bottom grill.

[Geddy]

@Teken I've not used it for something specifically like you're trying to do, but I've had some success with Sugru fixing some plastic pieces in the past. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Sugru-I000945-Moldable-Multi-Purpose-Creative/dp/B089WHGQDP

https://sugru.com/projects-inspiration/fix-repair/how-to-fix-broken-parts-in-your-fridge

The most important step is to let it cure at room temp. You can shape is to match the part you're trying to attach and have a larger overlap on to the existing piece. If you're really creative you could even shape a nub that might be able to go into the screw hole and keep it in there rather than trying to get the screw back in to keep it up. 

 

[Teken]

@Teken I've not used it for something specifically like you're trying to do, but I've had some success with Sugru fixing some plastic pieces in the past. 
https://smile.amazon.com/Sugru-I000945-Moldable-Multi-Purpose-Creative/dp/B089WHGQDP
https://sugru.com/projects-inspiration/fix-repair/how-to-fix-broken-parts-in-your-fridge
The most important step is to let it cure at room temp. You can shape is to match the part you're trying to attach and have a larger overlap on to the existing piece. If you're really creative you could even shape a nub that might be able to go into the screw hole and keep it in there rather than trying to get the screw back in to keep it up. 
 

Oh let me take a look at that little monster product

Thank You ~ Sir!

[Teken]

The reviews indicate the product remains tacky / sticky?!? Can you offer insight if that is true as it seems the experience is a mixed bag of when you purchased this product. Other complaints are short shelf life as the seller is unloading almost expired tubes of this stuff?!?

I would like to use something that cures hard so normal dust can be washed off given it’s an intake zone lots of fluff gets sucked in over the months.

[Geddy]

My experience has been limited. Some of the stuff that stays tacky seems to be more of a product that you don't allow to cure all the way. I used on a few cords in the past and kept bending them so it wouldn't cure hard. I've had others that cured and held up plastic parts on a windshield very well...that is until an active teen decided to help dad by cleaning the inside glass and knocking the plastic part out the door. 

How often do you remove this piece? 

More info (maybe just marketing hoopla) - https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/what-is-sugru-exactly-a-magical-moldable-glue-for-mending-and-making-241099

 

https://sugru.com/what-is-sugru

Quote

Waterproof: As a silicone rubber, Sugru can be used for sealing applications indoors and out. Ensure surfaces are dry before use.

 

Also from their site:

Quote

**Depending on the thickness of the application, for load-bearing projects, allow up to 48 hours for Sugru to fully set. 

 

I haven't purchased any recently as it does take a while to use up even the smallest amount that you get. I've had good luck keeping it in the fridge and working it like clay/playdoh before applying it to anything.

 

I'd say it would be a balance over what you've used in the past. It will (should) work, but of course if you're taking it on and off it's possible it could break or come apart. Is there no way to buy a new cover rather than buying more epoxy or other product? 

 

[apostolakisl]

I doubt you will ever be able to glue that.  Very little surface area and a lot of stress.

In situations like that I have reinforced with fiberglass.  For small jobs I typically just use some fiberglass cloth and epoxy rather than fiberglass resin.  This requires that you can reinforce at least one side without it being visible.  You can do two or even three coats of fiberglass.  Doing both sides is the strongest.  The fiberglass more or less turns clear when you wet it with epoxy.

I have also used bondo.  Basically I wrap the whole area with bondo and then machine away  my contact point and screw holes.  Again, issues with visibility.  It requires that the bondo contact a descent amount of native material to get a good stable purchase.

 

EDIT: if you do multiple coats of fiberglass, you let the first coat firm up, but not harden.  To get the two layers two chemically bond the first layer has to still be a bit wet.  Otherwise you just get a mechanical bond.

Edited September 23, 2021 by apostolakisl

[Teken]

Appreciate the replies and insight of other methods. To answer the first question I’m on this *Fix Everything* before winter hits. It’s a annual thing I do each year to get one more thing off the to do list.

Anything I can repair I do. Anything that needs to be replaced it is. I’ll admit this is really about seeing if I could repair the same for very little money. As others asked why don’t I just buy the part?!?

More than likely I will as a great friend (BBB) messaged me last night as he saw my posting!

I haven’t checked to see what that same part is worth in Canadian dollars to be honest but didn’t feel like spending more than $30.XX for a piece of plastic and hence the endless journey to repair this silly thing!

I don’t have any experience with fibre glass but given the super small area does anyone sell product that small for under $10.XX?!?

Obviously, it makes little sense buying endless glues / adhesives that costs $30.XX or more vs the part! Hence why I’m hoping to use / buy the same at $5-10.XX before it’s just pride taking over my common sense!

[oberkc]

Hobby shops or, possibly, automotive repair would be a source of fiberglass cloth.  Combine that with the epoxy you have and you should fall well under $10.

[larryllix]

Here is what I would try.
Glue the parts together with Crazy Glue...cyano..whatever.

After that I would do the fiberglass or epoxy thing over top of a roughed up and scratched up surface to reinforce it.
I would use the metal filled epoxy in your link as you can drill it, tap it and file it down to shape, and for looks.

These compounds make cost you over $30 alone but my guess is that grill will be way over $100 with shipping.
That would be what I would look into first and with your millions? meh!

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
 

Edited September 24, 2021 by larryllix

[apostolakisl]

1 hour ago, Teken said:

I don’t have any experience with fibre glass but given the super small area does anyone sell product that small for under $10.XX?!?

 

HD and Lowe's and probably just about any hardware store will sell small packages of fiberglass cloth.  You can also use certain versions of fiberglass drywall seam tape.  And like I said, regular epoxy works just fine for little jobs, no need for a big tub of epoxy resin.

This package here will do about 10,000 repairs like the one you have.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-White-Fiberglass-Cloth/3228210

My process is scratch up the back surface of the parts with sandpaper, superglue the broken edges together, paint over the roughed up area with epoxy, lay a precut piece of fiber into the epoxy, then paint some epoxy over the top until it all turns clear.  Let it sit for 10 minutes or until it gels a bit, then repeat a second layer if appropriate.  Let it cure over night.  If it has screwhole, you can fiber right over it and then drill out back out.

Edited September 23, 2021 by apostolakisl

[Teken]

Man all of you are going to cost me money! I’ll drop by the local stores to see how much the fibre glass is and use Larry’s suggestion about pre gluing the small part. Then follow up with fibre mesh if it’s not crazy expensive.

I have some UV activated Epoxy Resin and the flashlight. I’ll probably use that to affix the part first than lap it up with either that putty or fibre glass what ever is cheaper.

My friend BBB says the part is $33.00 USD before shipping so that’s probably like $50-65.XX Canadian once converted and shipping.

[kzboray]

I had a small bit of high density plastic from the 80's that I needed to bond with a bit that had broken off. It had to hold up with a screw through it trying to force the bonded pieces apart. I tried several different products including JB weld (garbage), and Gorilla (worthless), and some other super glue kind of thing. None of them worked at all. I finally did some reading and ended up using HG Power Glue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BQ1N98B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a two part system, but unlike traditionally epoxy's the second part is a filler. It's like sand, but when you  mix the two together...you end up with a joint that can be sanded, painted. and seems to be unbreakable. 

If you give it a try, make sure to use some of the filler. Evan a small amount, like a few gains of sand will create a permanent bond even when the glue by itself doesn't hold. 

[Teken]

I had a small bit of high density plastic from the 80's that I needed to bond with a bit that had broken off. It had to hold up with a screw through it trying to force the bonded pieces apart. I tried several different products including JB weld (garbage), and Gorilla (worthless), and some other super glue kind of thing. None of them worked at all. I finally did some reading and ended up using HG Power Glue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BQ1N98B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a two part system, but unlike traditionally epoxy's the second part is a filler. It's like sand, but when you  mix the two together...you end up with a joint that can be sanded, painted. and seems to be unbreakable. 

If you give it a try, make sure to use some of the filler. Evan a small amount, like a few gains of sand will create a permanent bond even when the glue by itself doesn't hold. 

Let me take a gander.