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ZOOZ's 700 Dimmers


nadler

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Before I moved and committed to Lutron, I thought I would experiment with Zwave 700 and Polisy. I purchased the zooz zwave 700 dongle and the ZooZ water sensor here.  I have not previously used Zwave with ISY and except for Schlage locks and inovelli wall plugs as extenders (using Smarthings) I have very little zwave experience.

The Polisy and the zooz stick worked immediately following various instructions found on a number of threads in this forum.  The zooz's leak sensor also included quickly following their included instructions.  I'd say the whole business took me no longer than a 1/2 hour to get up and running.

My polisy is in my basement and the sensor worked well there but not on my first floor.  I decided to try an experiment.  I excluded the Inovelli wall plug (a 2017 model no longer made)  from the Smartthings hub and included it in ISY on Polisy.  It included quickly.  I then moved the wall plug to the first floor.  I was surprised when the leak sensor worked flawlessly.  

Next, I'm going to try the Zooz dimmer.  They have a few different models (Mosfet and Triac) and it was confusing as to which ones would work with which bulbs .  I reached out to Zoos on Saturday and to my surprise they got back to me on Saturday night.  I though I would include the information here as it might be helpful to others (hence the post's title).



The differences for the ZEN72 and ZEN77 are similar to those of the ZEN22 and ZEN27, where the essential difference is that they are wired differently in 3-way (or larger) installations, and they support different loads.

Mosfet and Triac comes into play with dimmers, as different bulbs use different drivers, and a driver incompatibility between the switch and the bulb can create a flickering effect. 

Some things you should consider when selecting a dimmer:

  • Is this for a single pole or multi-point control (3-way, 4-way, etc.) installation? If it's multi-point, go with ZEN77, if a single pole, go with ZEN72. While both will work as single pole switches, ZEN72 can handle more Wattage, so you won't have to worry about counting the bulbs.
  • How much load will be connected to the dimmer? If it's just a couple of bulbs, go with the ZEN77, if it's 5 or more bulbs, go with ZEN72.
  • Are your LED bulbs on this list? If not, go with ZEN77. But if your bulbs are listed, you're good to go with the ZEN72.

Hope this helps others.

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I have 40+ of the Zen77.  In general, stick with MOSFETs (trailing edge) dimming, they're much more bulb compatible.  

The bulb count thing is because the 77 is rated 100W on LED.  Which is a pretty bright circuit, no issue in my house.  

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58 minutes ago, io_guy said:

I have 40+ of the Zen77.  In general, stick with MOSFETs (trailing edge) dimming, they're much more bulb compatible.  

The bulb count thing is because the 77 is rated 100W on LED.  Which is a pretty bright circuit, no issue in my house.  

Thanks @io_guy Very helpful.

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Sorry my post got chopped.

There is a very lengthy discussion on issues with the current 700 firmware here.
https://github.com/zwave-js/node-zwave-js/issues/3906

Things appear to be cleaned up with the latest version, 7.17.1 which will likely never be handed out by the stick vendors (hence why I tell everyone to buy the SLUSB001A) .  But if you're brave, the latest FW can be downloaded here:
https://github.com/SiliconLabs/gecko_sdk/releases

You need the correct file for your device and region.

Devices:

EFR32ZG14:
https://github.com/SiliconLabs/gecko_sdk/raw/gsdk_4.0/protocol/z-wave/Apps/bin/gbl/ZW_SerialAPI_Controller_7_17_1_344_EFR32ZG14_REGION_US.gbl
- Aeotec Z-Pi 7
- Aeotec Z-Stick 7
- Silicon Labs UZB7 (SLUSB001A)

ZGM130S:
https://github.com/SiliconLabs/gecko_sdk/blob/gsdk_4.0/protocol/z-wave/Apps/bin/gbl/ZW_SerialAPI_Controller_7_17_1_344_ZGM130S_REGION_US.gbl
- Zooz ZST10 700

You load the firmware via PC Controller using the OTW function.  If you want to get into this fun, I'd recommended reading the whole discussion to get familiar with the various devices and how to load the firmware, backup the stick, etc.

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Wow, from reading the thread it seems there are quite a lot of problems, many above my understanding at this point.  Does the SLUSB001A not have these problems or is it easier to update?  They seem to be in stock and for $20 seems worth it to avoid the hassle. Or is it the same hassle and just a better stick?  

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The bugs are 700 chip related, no stick is better than another - they all use one of two SiLab chips.  The difference is the SLUSB is the reference stick and uses the reference firmware, no questions.  The vendor sticks "may" have slightly customized firmware and only release very few SDK stack updates.  The thread mentions many people putting the reference firmware on the vendor sticks so it shouldn't be an issue.

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18 minutes ago, io_guy said:

The bugs are 700 chip related, no stick is better than another - they all use one of two SiLab chips.  The difference is the SLUSB is the reference stick and uses the reference firmware, no questions.  The vendor sticks "may" have slightly customized firmware and only release very few SDK stack updates.  The thread mentions many people putting the reference firmware on the vendor sticks so it shouldn't be an issue.

Geeez! I posted 4 times in this thread and none ever showed up later. I am trying this with Edge this time. Possibly the forum is developing FF problems as other forums are experiencing.

Anyway...

Thank you io_guy!

I have been reading from the links you provided and have found no actual method to install the update to my SiLab stick yet. Lots of mention about using Win PC or RPi to do this but no actual method.

I do not understand what a PC Controller or OTW (from your post) means. Can you elaborate more on a method using either hardware?

 

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