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Looking for ideas to mount USB enclosure on a wall


firstone

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On 1/8/2023 at 12:28 PM, firstone said:

They don't stick to drywall particularly well

You've got to slightly "clean" the drywall first. We have the command strips holding up picture frames and framed posters in various rooms and they work very well. We usually wipe with damp cloth of 409, allow it to dry for a bit (~1 hour), wipe with dry cloth (just to be sure), place 1 side (apply pressure for a few seconds), allow it to "be" for a few hours before applying what you're trying to hang. I think the 3M instructions actually suggest 24 hours, but that's bogus (IMO). 

Great suggestion @jec6613!

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I took a slightly different approach with my 3D dongle holder. It needs some tweaking, as I am still learning how the drawing program works.

I wanted something that was enclosed, so there was no chance of the dongle coming free. I added a cutout at the bottom for a USB extension cable connector and for good measure I included a script on the front for additional air circulation.

 

Z-Matter Dongle Wall Holder v - Final.f3d v1.jpg

Z-Matter Dongle Wall Holder Bottom.png

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Both of these look awesome. Except I've never touched 3d printer. But,

If you use extension case, female USB-A end is probably going to be almost as wide as the unit itself. The first one you can probably put on the side. Not sure if you can use second one.

Edit: Passive extension is much smaller but still something to be considered. Active could be pretty big.

Edited by firstone
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16 minutes ago, firstone said:

Both of these look awesome. Except I've never touched 3d printer. But,

If you use extension case, female USB-A end is probably going to be almost as wide as the unit itself. The first one you can probably put on the side. Not sure if you can use second one.

Edit: Passive extension is much smaller but still something to be considered. Active could be pretty big.

Already have the cable and there is plenty of room for the cable end.

Dimension perspective can be hard to gauge without a reference.

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On 1/10/2023 at 2:10 PM, firstone said:

Both of these look awesome. Except I've never touched 3d printer. But,

If you use extension case, female USB-A end is probably going to be almost as wide as the unit itself. The first one you can probably put on the side. Not sure if you can use second one.

Edit: Passive extension is much smaller but still something to be considered. Active could be pretty big.

Check your area for 3D Print Shops and take the file you want to them. They will print it.. Might be oh, $25 for the finished product. 

No joke, it's actually in demand. If there isn't one around you.. You might want to think about opening a shop... LoL

 

TRI0N

Edited by TRI0N
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13 hours ago, TRI0N said:

If there isn't one around you..

try the internet, just google 3D print service...  I don't currently have one I recommend, I used to use a guy that seems to have vanished (probably because he couldn't make money because he honestly didn't charge enough... I even told him he should charge more).

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I literally have a 3D Printer setup in the garage for the niece so she can build Cosplay body parts. It's 3' x 3' and she hasn't even used it yet. Merry Christmas eh? Nah I'm sure 2 months before this years LA Con she is going to go ape snitz. 


TRI0N

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1 hour ago, TRI0N said:

I literally have a 3D Printer setup in the garage for the niece so she can build Cosplay body parts. It's 3' x 3' and she hasn't even used it yet. Merry Christmas eh? Nah I'm sure 2 months before this years LA Con she is going to go ape snitz. 


TRI0N

I am the same. I have run a few test prints off before the print nozzle tore the surface off the metal plate. These things are quite complicated and can be a steep learning curve. Of course the instructions never match the model you have and the chinLish is terrible. I am told this (3-6 months of destroying things) is all normal from many experienced people.

It takes a while and somebody with experience showing you how it's done definitely helps.

Best of luck.

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On 1/21/2023 at 10:56 AM, larryllix said:

I am the same. I have run a few test prints off before the print nozzle tore the surface off the metal plate. These things are quite complicated and can be a steep learning curve. Of course the instructions never match the model you have and the chinLish is terrible. I am told this (3-6 months of destroying things) is all normal from many experienced people.

It takes a while and somebody with experience showing you how it's done definitely helps.

Best of luck.

It also depends on model and cost.  I have owned 2 printers. Robo3D plus and currently the Creality CR6SE. Have only had one issue with the Robo3D and that was my impatience that damaged the bed.  Lesson learned. IMHO if you spend less than $300, plan on spending more time troubleshooting.  Then another $50-$100 in accessories.  

Mine sits for a couple months and then I have printathons, and it doesn't have any issues. 

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6 minutes ago, Mecheng70 said:

It also depends on model and cost.  I have owned 2 printers. Robo3D plus and currently the Creality CR6SE. Have only had one issue with the Robo3D and that was my impatience that damaged the bed.  Lesson learned. IMHO if you spend less than $300, plan on spending more time troubleshooting.  Then another $50-$100 in accessories.  

Mine sits for a couple months and then I have printathons, and it doesn't have any issues. 

Yeah, I have all the new gadgets and the instructions don't really support it yet.

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Nice! That model was on my list but I decided to stick with a more common one.  The main deal-breaker was the spool compartment wouldn't take 1kg spools.

Unfortunately, the supplied instructions with mine  for auto-leveling were confusing due to language translation and not up to date with all the latest gadgets they put on them now and I ripped the PEI off the flexible plate, badly. They sent me a new PEI plate but it is very smooth and I haven't tried it yet.

I am envious of the WiFi. I have to use SD cards to transfer the files but many are recommending to use a spare RPi with USB to achieve that. Now to become proficient with the slicer and learn a 3D CAD program to design my own.

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