Switch Turns Off, But Not On via ISY

[elite-rob]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 6 button Insteon switch that has worked perfectly (via the ISY and Alexa) for ages.

Suddenly, the ISY (directly via the ISY portal and via Alexa), it can turn "off" the switch, but not turn it "on".

Is it possible to fix this?

I can turn it on and off at the physical switch.

But if it's off, the ISY seems to do nothing when "on" is clicked. 

If however, I turn it on manually (at the switch), then it fails to turn off in the ISY portal.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Techman]

Right click on the Keypad in your device tree then click on restore device

If that doesn't resolve the issue then you can try doing a factory reset on the Keypad followed by a restore device.

If the these two options don't work then it's possible you have poor communications between the ISY and the Keypad, possibly due to noise on your powerline.

Edited April 26 by Techman

[elite-rob]

Thanks, I’ll try that now.

Do I have to put the switch into linking mode (by holding the set button) when doing the restore?

I’m hoping it’s not noise on the line… the ISY seems to be able to turn everything else on/off in the room… and can even turn this switch off (just not on).

Edited April 26 by elite-rob

[Techman]

You don't have to put it into the linking mode for a restore device

If you've recently added new electricial devices to your home they could be the source of the noise.

If after you've tried all of the above and you're still having issues let me know and I'll send you more troubleshooting suggestions

[Brian H]

Is it dual band or the power line only keypad?

[elite-rob]

The device that is acting funky is a 2486D Keypad Link Dimmer. (It could be very old....)

So far I have tried to do a "Restore Device".

At first glance this worked, and I was able to turn the light on/off.

But then it only worked every few attempts and would fail with a high frequency.

In the admin panel, I started seeing "Cannot communicate with Bedside Switch. Please check connection."

Also, in the admin console, there is a green icon with "1011" directly to the left of the device name. I'm not sure what that means.

Should I replace the switch to something new (as this is a high usage switch)?

I can still try to factory reset it, as I haven't done that yet.

Thanks to all for their help! It's greatly appreciated. 

[paulbates]

@Techman's factory reset is the next logical step, then a restore device. Possible it will fix it, if not replace it

[Techman]

 

Attached is the manual for the 2486D. Factory reset instructions are on page 16 and 17

The 1011 means that the PLM is not communicating with the device and that there are pending links to be written to the device.

2486D 8 button dimmer manual.pdf

[Guy Lavoie]

The 2486D isn't dual band, so will be more prone to signal issues, esp if there is noise on the powerline.

[elite-rob]

First and foremost, my thanks to everyone for their support! It's greatly appreciated

I have done a full factory reset on the switch.

I then did a "restore" via the ISY admin panel.

It seemed to run successfully (no errors), however the green icon of "1011" is still beside the device in the admin panel.

I assume that means we've got a communication issue

Since this is an older switch....and a very high usage one... does it make more sense to replace it? I believe I have a new one I can swap in.

Is there an easy way to "replace" a switch in the ISY admin panel so all the programs/scenes copy to the new switch? Same thing with getting Alexa to recognize the new switch. Wondering if there's any tricks as opposed to deleting and re-adding to all scenes/programs.

Thanks again!

P.S. There's a guy in town who can repair Insteon switches. Does it make sense to even get this repaired, or it's so old that I really should use Dual Band for everything.

[paulbates]

• It's a communication issue or a dying switch. Since it's single band, it's more vulnerable to line noise... new plugin transformers, tvs, fans.. could all be contributing to this new problem
• A new dual-band switch will help, but not necessarily fix the problem without eliminating line noise as the problem; this is more involved to exactly isolate
• A new switch is $55 +shipping, I'm trying to imagine how much less a repair would be compared to just replacing a high use, older device... repair usually means replace capacitors, but not the physical plastic parts that wear down with use
• There is a replace function, but it's highly sensitive to replacing with the exact device. It would probably work but there's a chance you'll have to visit scenes and programs if it doesn't. Usually its not that bad to do.

If it were me, I'd replace an old, single band highly used device. If comm issues persist, post back and we'll step through it.

[Brian H]

The replace function would work if the replacement is a similar model.

To do it you add the replacement with a new name. Then high lite the old one and pick the replace with function. Using the name you gave the new module.

If it is a new power line only. It could take eight messages and acknowledgement to add one link to the replacement. So it would take awhile and if you have a power line noise issue. It may fail. If the new one is dual band replace may or my not be an option. As it may not be close enough for a swap.

 

[elite-rob]

Thanks everyone!
I'll get a new dual-band switch installed this week, and see if that does the trick.

If it's still acting funky, I'll report back.

Appreciate everyone's help and guidance.

[Guy Lavoie]

If it's that device that's going bad, then this will be a good solution. But if it's a noise issue, then it might just be a band aid on a bigger problem. Just be aware.

[larryllix]

6 hours ago, elite-rob said:

First and foremost, my thanks to everyone for their support! It's greatly appreciated

I have done a full factory reset on the switch.

I then did a "restore" via the ISY admin panel.

It seemed to run successfully (no errors), however the green icon of "1011" is still beside the device in the admin panel.

I assume that means we've got a communication issue

Since this is an older switch....and a very high usage one... does it make more sense to replace it? I believe I have a new one I can swap in.

Is there an easy way to "replace" a switch in the ISY admin panel so all the programs/scenes copy to the new switch? Same thing with getting Alexa to recognize the new switch. Wondering if there's any tricks as opposed to deleting and re-adding to all scenes/programs.

Thanks again!

P.S. There's a guy in town who can repair Insteon switches. Does it make sense to even get this repaired, or it's so old that I really should use Dual Band for everything.

Most of my Insteon devices do that now. For the last few updates, I have had to right click on the device and select Write Updates or the 1011 stays there forever. I feel this is an old update logical bug that never got straightened out, especially on battery operated devices.

This may also depend on what your battery writes options are set to but I have always just Write Updates for the last year or so.

Edited April 27 by larryllix

[elite-rob]

Thanks!

is there a way for me to troubleshoot noise on the line to also explore that avenue?

[larryllix]

Just now, elite-rob said:

Thanks!

is there a way for me to troubleshoot noise on the line to also explore that avenue?

Having a few spare FilterLincs can really help. My big problem was Chamberlain garage door openers. My first GDO gave me slight comm problems for about ten years. Once I got a second GDO with battery backup, my Insteon went to about 20% success. Unplugging both of them resolved the problem so I bought two FilterLincs and my system worked much better.

The long delay was I though it was my whole home Outback Inverter system doing it and due to being minor, I just ignored it.

[Geddy]

On 4/27/2025 at 3:10 PM, elite-rob said:

is there a way for me to troubleshoot noise on the line to also explore that avenue?

Here's a good comment from @MrBill that I keep handy to suggest noise troubleshooting options:

https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/35216-programs-not-working/#comment-330289

Later in that thread he posts these wiki links:

https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON:_Troubleshooting_Communications_Errors

https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_Signal_/_Noise_Troubleshooting

https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_No_Status_Feedback_From_Devices

 

The key to noise is it can be anything new OR old...can even be something that's randomly running (or not running) at the times you're testing (if it's inconsistent). 

[apostolakisl]

Switching to a new, dual band, device usually fixes any com issues, especially ones that aren't horrible.  My bet though is that the age of that switch is the problem, which of course is also fixed with a new replacement.  I have found that the old single band devices seem to become less sensitive to the power line signal as they age.  I have some very old devices that monitor power draw (I forget what they are called), but they don't make them anymore so I can't replace them.  I use them to tell when the washing machine has finished.  Anyway, as they got older, the com failure rate kept climbing until they stopped working altogether, but discovered if I plug it in directly next to the plm, they worked.  I ended up using a dual band appliance linc that I plugged it directly into (in series) and that fixed the com issue.  But the point is, it needed that strong of a signal, basically a couple inches of wire between it and the appliance linc as a repeater.

[elite-rob]

Hello Everyone,

Thanks again for all the help and support. You all rock!

I wanted to provide a quick update....

I replaced the switch that was acting funky with a new dual-band switch...... and linked it to the ISY.

I didn't end up doing the "replace".... instead I just went manually and added it in anywhere the old switch existed (before deleting the old one).

So far so good! 

No communication issues, and the switch seems very responsive to Alexa commands. WOO HOO!

While swapping this switch, I actually replaced another one as well in my daughter's closest.

I hope you don't mind me asking another question in this thread about that.

When I go into Linking Mode in the ISY Admin panel.... and hold the "set" button on the new switch.... the ISY does "not" pick it up. Every other time I've done this, it finds the switch and adds it right away.

Any ideas what I can do if it's not finding this specific switch?

Thanks again!

 

[paulbates]

2 hours ago, elite-rob said:

When I go into Linking Mode in the ISY Admin panel.... and hold the "set" button on the new switch.... the ISY does "not" pick it up. Every other time I've done this, it finds the switch and adds it right away.

Any ideas what I can do if it's not finding this specific switch?

 

There's 2 methods. One is linking mode.

The other is to add a new Insteon device from the linking menu. You need the six hex digit Insteon id, formatted like this 12.34.5A. It could be digits or the letter A-F. Its found on sticker on the front of the switch, you'll have to take the faceplate off.

 

When you do this, conversation starts with the ISY and there's nothing to do at the switch end. Typically, it will beep when the ISY contacts it. Try that from the linking menu.

Edited Thursday at 01:51 AM by paulbates

[apostolakisl]

If linking mode isn't working, then you either have a faulty switch or a seriously bad communication issue.  You can try manually adding as per Paul, but I suspect that won't work.  And if it does work, then it means something is wrong with the switch since it isn't declaring itself in linking mode.  I assume you are holding the set button in long enough until the switch beeps indicating it entered linking mode.

[Guy Lavoie]

You could try a factory reset on the switch, then try the linking again. Factory reset is done by pulling out the link button for 10 seconds, then pushing and holding it in (as when you link it) until it beeps.

[Techman]

To add what @Guy Lavoie suggested, when factory resetting the switch you need to keep the button pressed until the beeping stops. If the reset was successful the load will turn on.

I doubt that the switch is defective. It sounds more like a communication issue between the PLM and the switch