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apostolakisl

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Everything posted by apostolakisl

  1. Actually, in more critical applications, it would be better to run it electrically NO. Otherwise, if the relay should fail, you wouldn't know until you actually needed it. I set up my water shutoff valve along the same way, the main supply solenoid/valve is normally flow closed, it needs to be powered to allow flow. Odd about the terminology, that an electrical NO = a plumbing NC. * Orest True, but by leaving a relay energized all the time you are inviting it to fail and then you will be stuck without a dishwasher until you get around to fixing it. When the only down side is the water that is in the machine getting pumped to the floor, it wouldn't be the end of the world if it failed. The whole house water valve would be another story. With a water valve you should use one of the actuated models, not a solonoid model. The elk WSV for example. I do have the relay the signals the actuator in the energized position when open, which means a failure of the relay would close the water valve. But that doesn't protect you from a failure of the actuator. I have my Elk WSV shut the house off 30 minutes after the system arms away so it gets operated several times per day. I can see and hear it actuate as I drive the car into the garage upon returning.
  2. I totally concur with using a properly rated relay. I would suggest a double throw relay and hook the dishwasher up to the NC side. In this way powering the relay will disconnect the appliance. Since the relay will spend 99.9999% of its life with the appliance powered, you probably don't want the coil constantly energized. You can use an Insteon lamplinc or appliancelinc to power the coil. I have water protection in my house but have hard wired everything. Insteon almost always works, but I prefer the higher reliability of hard wired for my security and water protection.
  3. As mentioned, yes. This is exactly what you do to get a then clause to run all the way through without possibility of being interupted. Put the "then" claue in a disabled program and use an enabled program to call it up.
  4. I am with you Vipola. I know that you can click on the path header and drag it across to the first row sort of making a tree, but the rest of the world puts everything into actual trees in the first place. Also, once you exit and return, it goes back to displaying things the old way. I would love to see it all in a tree format right off when you open the program summary page. Lou
  5. Sounds like a bad switch. You might try removing it from ISY completely (not just deleting from programs), and, if still behaving like that, wiring it into a home that has no other Insteon devices.
  6. That is great. I didn't realize that programs can be used to "reprogram" scenes. I look forward to using that feature.
  7. If you think about it a little bit, you can see why controlling a switch from something other than switch should only control that switch, and not propogate onto other switches. When you start creating more scenes and having switches in more than one scene, what you would realize is that turning a single switch on could potentially cascade into practically every switch in your house. You will also notice that a switch is allowed to be a controller for only one scene. It can be a responder to as many as you like. Again, this keeps things from snowballing. Think of it this way, for a change in switch "A" to cause a change in switch "B" switch "A" must be physically acted on (you pushed it), not acted on by an insteon command (responding to a scene). Also, imagine having a switch as a member of two scenes, just because you want that switch to turn on in a specific scene doesn't mean you want all of the lights associated with that switch in a different scene to also turn on. Hope that made sense. Mobile linc has a shortcomming, it doesn't list the status of a scene. So, to know if a light is on, you need to look at the device list, but to turn it on and off and actually have all of the switches in the virtual three-way follow, you need to use the scene. I do not like this either. I am hoping that in future versions they put a scene status where something like red is off, green is on, and orange means that some of the switches are on and others off.
  8. The above answers are very good, but may be a bit more complex of a response then a "newbie" is looking for. Here is how I think of it. 1) A program is true if the last thing it did was run the "then" 2) A program is false if the last thing it did was run the "else" 3) Disabling a program only disables it from spontaneously running (self triggering). In other words, another program can force the "if", "then", or "else" to execute, but it won't do it on its own. -for example, "if status light xyz is on" triggers every time light xyz is changed and runs "then" if light is on or "else" if it is not (and becomes true or false respectively). If the program is disabled, the program will not trigger if you control the light, it just sits there. However, another program can force it to run the program as usual by stating "run program blah blah blah (if)" or another program can jump ahead and force the "then" or "else" clause to run without regard for what is written in the "if". Hope I didn't make it too confusing again.
  9. With one of my previous upgrades I had some programs that weren't doing what they should have. I deleted them and wrote the exact same program back in and it worked as expected??????
  10. I plead ignorance on the climate module, however, it goes against how everything else in iSY works to have the if continually evaluate. It probably works like status where every time the temp changes it re-evaluates. The other possibility is that it never triggers and that you need something else to act as a trigger. Just write your program and watch the program summary page. It will tell you every time it runs and from that you can figure out the trigger.
  11. http://www.buy.com/prod/trendnet-tv-ip1 ... 28302.html I think this camera would do the trick. It says that it can be set to send still images via email or ftp. Provided you have wifi at your vacation home all you would need is a low voltage power source in there along with an LED bulb to illuminate the dial. And it is pretty cheap.
  12. There was a thread on cocoontech.com about this issue. As I understand, the float in the tank turns a gauge that is insde the tank and magentized. The indicator needle that you see is placed over the magnet and follows it, thus allowing you to visualize the fluid level without having a physical connection to the inside of the tank (and thus no risk of it leaking). It seems like the simple solution is to put a rheostat on that needle, but the problem is the magnet isn't strong enough to pull the exterior needle around with the added friction of the rheostat. Brainstorming ideas 1) Place a series of magnetic contacts around the periphery and whereever the magnet is in the tank will close the nearest contact and indicate roughly the percentage full. 2) Use some sort of optical sensor that "sees" the position of the needle at various positions and similar to above, reports it. 3) Last idea, point an IP camera at the gauge and just look at it from home. You could have it automatically take a picture of the needle and email it to you once a day. No matter what you do, I don't think Insteon is going to be helpful. There are ways I could wire this into my Elk M1G but I can't think of any reliable and reasonbly priced way to do it with Insteon.
  13. I noticed this as well. With one of the firmware updates you did maybe 6 months the list of displayed devices got a lot shorter when using the "replace with" command. So now if the device is down the alphabet, you have to sit and wait on the down arrow forever. I liked it better when it showed like 30 devices all at once, much lower chance of scrolling needed and much less scrolling when needed.
  14. Yes, all of those settings get incorporated directly into the learned code as it is learning it. Some of them are kind of obvious, like which output you set it to send to. I have manually changed that without relearning. The gap setting seems to have something to do with how the learner recognizes when the full code is complete. I think with gap at 1 it truncates necessary code for some items. I read the online tutorial, but frankly, I couldn't really figure out what they were talking about on most issues. I may give them a call and see if they would give me a 5 minute rundown. I did talk to them once before and they seem to be pretty open to supporting their customers. If so, I will do my best to put the info on here.
  15. Did you try playing with the "gaps" setting. That is what got my dish receiver to work. I don't really know what "gaps" changes! I didn't find that converting hex codes worked very well for me either. I doubt "repeat" would fix it since I believe that it just repeats the message. A message that doesn't work twice isn't much better than one that doesn't work once. The GC website has a very detailed pdf that probably would answer your question, if you can undertand it. I can't.
  16. I had to change the "gaps" setting to 3 to get codes to work properly on my dish vip 622. I figured this out by trial and error. I wish I could help you out more, but I just haven't been able to find any good descriptions of exactly what the various settings change and when you might want to change them. You could also look at remotecentral.com and see if they have your unit in hex format. Global cache has a program that will convert it to their format.
  17. Yes, I am quite certain I had deleted at least a couple network resources prior to doing the backup from which I did the restore. Keep in mind that the "restore" part was not a simple click "restore" and go.
  18. Michel, I thought you might like to know the follwing: I don't know what the ID numbers were to start with, but I do know that I had deleted some which my recollection tells me should have left empty ID's. After the restore, the id's are now contiguous. The programs that referenced network resources all refrenced the wrong ones after the restore. Thanks, Lou
  19. After moving a bunch of switches around and replacing a bunch of bad switches with new ones I found things to be not quite right. I went through the house and did a factory reset on every single device then a "restore devices" from the file menu which rewrites all of your devices. I also restored my PLM. The factory reset is a sure fire way to remove all links in a device and the 'restore devices" makes the reprogramming somewhat easy. It is a very time consuming thing to do as it can take hours for ISY to rewrite everything (depending on the size of your install). During those hours the ISY won't respond causing great anxiety. But when it finished everything worked well again.
  20. Michel, Yes, first I ran restore, the system hung and after about an hour I task managed out of it and re-opened ISY. The network resource tab was empty at that point. I tried again, same result. I tried from a different computer, same result. I tried a hard reboot of ISY, same result. The only difference was that sometimes it would load a variable amount of the contents of network resources before hanging. I have 90 items and it might load 6, or 36, but then would freeze up and never finish. At this point a task manager exit of ISY and re-open of ISY would still be blank at network resources tab. I did try doing "import" on one of those tries to see if I could import that backup file, but that one failed the same as the others. Finally I had success on about the 10th try. I don't know why it worked becuase I just kept doing the same thing each time (I like beating my head on the wall). I suppose it is possilbe that I hit "import" instead of "restore" on that last try but I am 99% sure that I didn't.
  21. Yes, 2.8.10. And I definitely did a restore, not import.
  22. I need to emphasize to anyone following this thread that the you do have this today, it just requires 2 programs. The issue being addressed in this thread is not functionality, but user interface, in that requiring multiple programs seems cumbersome to many. This is exactly the point I was trying to make with my early post with the big giant photoshoped screenshot that is making this thread so hard to read! (sorry). ISY is 100% capable of having non-trigger conditions and trigger conditions right now exactly as is, it just need two programs. A relatively simple solution to this (I think), is for the guys at UD to manipulate the user interface such that two programs are merged into what appears to the user as one program, hiding the non-needed items. Since the ISY language would not be changed, there is no risk of introducing bugs where there were none. Edit. .. woooohoooo, pushed it to a new page so the super wide screen is gone.
  23. Also now I see that doing a restore doesn't assign the network resources the same id so my programs have gotten scrambled. I think that is something that you might want to look at fixing in future firmware upgrades.
  24. After about 10 tries it worked. Not sure what is up with that.
  25. I made some changes to my network resources and it wasn't working like I wanted so I went to restore from a backup of network resources I made before the changes. Upon doing the restore, the system hangs. I have an hourglass and no ability to do anything. I can't log off or anything. I have to use task manager to exit it. When I go back to it, the network resources is empty. I tried adding new files manually and it works. But, the restore function once again hung it up. I tried rebooting the computer and the ISY, same result. I know the backup is good because I had sent it to Michel to look it over and he was able to open it. When I activate the restore, the items I had start to show up, not all of them, but at least a few. Some of the times I tried the restore most would show up, other times only a few, but regardless, it hangs after that. What should I do?
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