apostolakisl

Unfortunately, only older driers and very basic models have buzzers anymore. Most of your modern feature driers have a computer controlled speaker of some sort that plays a song or makes some other sort of not-so-obnoxious sound. Plus, why take your drier apart when all you need to do is take the vent off attach a flapper, and reinstall the vent. Zero chance of damaging anything, shocking yourself, setting anything on fire, or voiding your warranty. The only other way I would recommend is to use a current sensor on the power cord. Driers or usually sold without a cord and it is intended to be attached by the end-user, so no warranty voiding here. You can attach the current sensor inside the j-box on the back of the drier where the two legs of 240 are separate wires. If you have a 120 drier (gas), you can use a synchrolinc, if you can manage to find one.

That was me. Here is the thread where I include a shopping list and video demo. Master Drier Copy - [ID 0163][Parent 00F7] (this program enables the notification program only with 2 continuous minutes of operation) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 0 Then Wait 2 minutes Enable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Master Drier - [ID 00C6][Parent 00F7][Not Enabled][Run At Startup] (Now that drier has been on for 2 minutes straigt, this sends and email as soon as the drier turns off, then deactivates itself) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 1 Then Send Notification to 'ellen gmail' content 'Master Dryer Done' Wait 1 second Disable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I use a switchlinc. It tends to be the cheapest and easiest since I already know everything about how to use it. On gives me 5 minutes. Fast on gives me 10. Press on when it is already on and it stays on until you turn it of..

If memory serves me, Michel said that DST is executed by resetting the clock. Resetting the clock breaks all timed events at the time. No different than if you manually changed the clock. Probably a better way to have done it is to run everything on UTC time and let the clock run continuously. Any time reference within an if clause would reference UTC +/- the locally selected time zone. Say DST would just change the plus/minus number and not change the clock. But I could be full of BS.

ISY (v5) lets you access system values for date and time. However, these values can not be used in the "if" clause. You must first transfer the system value to a variable. But, how to transfer the "minutes" to a variable every minute. You must have a program that runs every minute. Which puts us back to square one. DST will tend to mess with programs that are running in wait/repeats running every minute. If you don't know about polyglot, then you should get on that. Polyglot vastly expands ISY's functionality. You either need a raspberry pi or the polisy (sold by UD). Polyglot runs nodeservers. Nodeservers currently number about 60 and do all sorts of things like link your ISY to Tesla, Roomba, Husqvarna lawnmowers, Blue Iris Software, several weather apps, and so on and so forth. You need the nosderver that does time/date. This lets you directly access all of the pieces of time and date separate from all the other pieces. Like minutes, hours, day of month, month of year, epoch date, year, month, and so on. Polisy is quite a bit more expensive than a rpi. However, polisy is likely to be the next gen ISY, which will put polisy and isy under the same hood.

Yes, to the best of my knowledge, the DST clock change kills all waits and repeats. It used to do that and I believe it still does, though I no longer have programs that run waits/repeats through the night after this issue left my sprinkler on for 24 hours striaght. If you want to run a program at the top of every hour, this is quite easy now with node server. Just install ISY time data node and then do: Or, just in case, have it run at any minute that is not 0 just to avoid any confusion that might occur at the zero minute of DST change.

This is my program. It uses an Insteon synchrolinc which I don't think they make any more. Anyway, the synchrolinc is like the CT800 except you can set parameters from ISY. This program works perfectly. Washer D - [ID 00FA][Parent 00F7] If 'Master Bedroom / Master Washer' is switched Off And 'Master Bedroom / Master Washer' is not switched On Then Wait 5 minutes Send Notification to 'ellen gmail' content 'Laundry Downstairs' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Having the "not switched on" ends the timer and runs the else clause which terminates the program. So the timer only completes when the synchrolinc is off (not detecting current) for 5 continuous minutes. I have the synchrolinc set to 15 watts trigger, 16 seconds hold off, and 5 watts hysteresis on a Samsung front loader and 3 watts, 2 seconds, 3 watts on a Whirlpool Calypso high efficiency top loader. I'm sure other settings would work, but it was something of a hunt and peck method of finding what works and once I found something that worked, I quit. The main difference between ISY and Elk programs is that ISY can have multiple triggers. In this case, both turning the synchrolinc on and turning it off are triggers. In Elk, only the first line is the trigger, additional lines are only checked when the first line condition is met. So in the ISY program my second line simply ends the running program by re-triggering it. . . closing out the true state and moving to the false state. Now, looking at your elk program, it seems like it should work. Somehow it must still have a violated condition on zone 16 after the 5 minutes. I don't know, you would have to sit there and observe it as it happens to know. Watch to see that output 100 turns on for 5 minutes, and watch the status of zone 16. Either the output isn't turning on for 5 minutes, or zone 16 is staying violated. Could it be that you have something else using output 100? Might try a different output. Try exporting your Elk programs into MS Word and do a find for the word output hunting down every instance of it.

Probably a bad switch. PLM's have issues for sure, but this doesn't sound like a PLM problem. Is your ISY having troubles communicating with anything else?

quick and dirty, just unplug ISY from the PLM and turn the light on. If it still does it, then you know it is not an ISY command (program). That leaves you with a defective switch. Try factory resetting the switch and restore it from ISY. If that fails, buy a new switch.

If it is a state variable just make a program If variable x is 0 Then send email Else send email Every time the variable x changes, it sends an email. You can embed the value of that variable in the email if you want using variable substitution syntax found in the wiki. If it is an integer variable, then you will need to use something else as the trigger. Like whatever program changes the integer value can also send the email.

I think you made my point. 1 year of upgrades and support included. If you want to continue upgrades and support there is a charge, but the software does not shut off. Furthermore, you can deactivate your license and reactivate it on another pc. I have done this a couple times with my software that is well past its support and upgrade period. EDIT: Ha, my bad too. I just noticed you wrote "my bad".

I'm quite certain you are wrong. I have version 4, and I have the option to purchase support, but my software is like 5 years old now and I only paid once. I don't see anywhere that the license is listed as a subsription. Only support.

And speak of the devil. My Insteon switches just did a chirp-chirp-chirp, I got an email with a picture of a car driving up my driveway and I looked over at the camera and there is the amazon lady dropping off 2 packages.

I'm pretty sure that is a lifetime license. The annual fee is if you want to maintain support. It is sold at newegg and walmart also for $49. The amount of pc horsepower is directly related to how many cameras you have and frame rate/resolution. Running 64 high def cameras all at once is a lot, but most people will use far less. I have an i7-6700 at 3.4ghz with 13 hd cameras and the system is not stressed.

only runs on windows. I also see it is up to $65 now. I have version 4, not sure what I would gain going with v5. I used to be $20 I think for 1 camera and $50 for the full package. EDIT: Looks like you buy a license on ebay for $50. Still haven't seen any compelling reason to stop using my v4.

2 basic options 1) buy a polisy from UD. Polisy will have polyglot installed already. Polisy has a lot of horsepower and is rumored to be the future of ISY (ie, it will replace your ISY). But it costs a lot more and this new version of ISY that theoretically runs on it is ambiguously in the future. 2) buy a raspberry pi and watch the videos located on the polyglot section of this forum. This is much cheaper but will require a bit of your time. Theoretically about 15 minutes if you knew what you were doing, but you don't, so expect a couple hours. But once you have polyglot running, you will likely find several of the node servers to be useful.

I have an IP camera that is monitored by blue iris software. Blue iris will email you (or do email to text) of snapshots upon various triggers you designate. In my case, I programmed blue iris to look for an object that starts in one location and moves to a second location. The end result is I get notified every time someone approaches my house (but not when exiting). Since ISY links to blue iris (via node server) I also have other events happen upon that same trigger. The blue iris/isy connection is two way, so since you already have your doorbell linked to isy, you could have isy trigger blue iris to send the image. Or, you could have blue iris send the image based on various motion attributes and get notified when someone like the amazon guy drops off a package but doesn't ring the bell. Or when a thief comes to pick up that amazon package. So, if you wanted to use blue iris 1) pay $50 for blue iris 2) have an always on pc 3) have polyglot running with the blue iris node server. Hopefully you already have 2 and 3. If you don't have 3, then why the heck not. The node servers are awesome.

It was not that. It is the protocol, not the frequency. https://globalcache.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360029674152-Integrating-iTach-WiFi-units-with-Ubiquiti-APs

I don't know about the wifi versions they currently sell, but the one I bought several years ago uses some form of wifi that is problematic. I totally forget the details, but my Ubiquiti stuff would not connect to it unless I "downgraded" my wifi security protocols. It was a lot of hoops to jump through and I decided that it would be better to keep my wifi running on a more secure protocol and switch to the ethernet version of the GC. I have found that the ethernet version just plain works better too. I have very close to 100% success rate now and when I was on wifi it was definitely less. Mind you, the GC was only 10 feet from my wifi, so it was not a signal strength issue.

Never checked my antenna sockets either. Actually didn't even install the antennas until my wife started complaining about the fact that they were sitting on the counter. I also found that my polisy was giving me an up-time initially that was a number that was far larger than correct. At some point after reboots or firmware updates or something or another, it became correct.

Your program should only be true at the moment of switching off one of those two devices, while simultaneously being within the time range. Times alone can not make that program true. If the program is firing true without an off press of the paddle, then something is either not presenting correctly in the forum or something is wrong in ISY. However unlikely, a simple step I would take is to delete the program and write it again. If something translated over wrong when you upgraded firmware, then deleting and re-writing should fix it. Aside from incorrectly firing true at the "from" time, does it still operate correctly when you press the "off" paddle at the various times? EDIT: Just to clarify, I said "should only BE true . . ." This isn't really correct. I should have said "should only TRIGGER true" The program status will list as "true" when sitting idle between the two times and after either of the switches "off" paddle was pressed. Despite being "true" it will only execute the "then" clause at the moment of pressing the "off" paddle.

Using an ipod as your remote I don't see any reason to use any nodeserver since none support any ipod AV app I've seen (if one exists, then excuse my ignorance). REST interface is it assuming the ipod app allows for that. If his receiver has a node, then that would be something to consider, but the ipod presumably is already linked to it and I don't see any use for ISY being able to monitor the receiver. The remote is the conductor of this orchestra. ISY would just be there to relay lighting commands to the switch. In fact, you could skip the Insteon light switch and get one that responds to ir and avoid setting up REST commands if the ipod doesn't do them.

has anyone else tried this? I tried it and it did not work. I used a brand new PLM and an old one that I had recapped that for whatever reason had a dead radio. I isolated the one with a dead radio behind a UPS and made a short 3 foot "crossover" cable. I tried doing just the RS232 contacts, just the TTL contacts, and one with both TTL and RS232. Either way, I got no communication to the PLM behind the UPS. The PLM does communicate when not power line isolated behind the UPS. I doubt it, but perhaps the older PLM is the issue? But that PLM does communicate with ISY via the serial cable and it does communicate with other Insteon devices using the power line comm.

If you have a receiver on the list of receivers with node servers, then you can do it. You would need to upgrade to the latest ISY firmware and either get a polisy or rpi to install polyglot on. If your receiver is not listed on polyglot, then it would be a ton of work and/or not really even be possible. Still, your receiver doesn't know what content is on the screen and if it is paused or playing. The remote does. This is what a smart remote does, it puts everything into the proper state with a single press. Not a fan of things like ipads to control your AV system since they aren't dedicated and tend to have the wrong app up, needs to be plugged in to charge, no hard buttons (have to look at it rather than just feel the buttons), and is expensive. Harmony Hub is a lot cheaper than an ipad and is perfectly matched to the task at hand. However, sticking with your ipad is probably very doable and perhaps easier to configure since it requires only the use of REST commands. I assume that your ipad AV program has the ability to send REST commands. So that is all you would need to do. Set it up to send REST commands for light bright/dim/off in concert with the hitting buttons for play, pause, off, or whatever you like. This requires no programs or changes to ISY at all, no polyglot, no nodeservers, etc. For example, a simple command like http://user:password@isy.ip.address/rest/nodes/1A.23.3B/cmd/DON/25 sets the light at node 1A.23.3B to 10% brightness. (x/255=brightness where x is the number you put at the end of the command) https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY_Developers:API:REST_Interface.

I still don't get the reason to ever use motion sensor to light a movie theater. Someone gets up to go to the bathroom or get a soda, the lights come on? Movie theater lighting is typically automated to what is playing on the screen, not to the movements of the people, just like at the local movie theater. And/or you put a button on the remote to manually dim/brighten the lights. Movie theater lights are not supposed to be off when the movie is running either. They are supposed to be very dim. Just like at the real movie theater. That is so you can get up and go to the bathroom even during a dark scene without bothering everyone else. It is also more comfortable on the eyes to have a slight amount of ambient light. And commonly movie rooms are for watching sports. People are constantly in and out during sports events with half times and commercial breaks. I automated my lights to go dim whenever a movie/broadcast event is playing. If I hit pause or stop, the lights go back to full. Or if I hit the button that directly controls the lights I can go bright, dim, or off. I just can't imagine a role for motion detection that wouldn't do the wrong thing more often than not.