apostolakisl

Maybe. I would focus more on putting your PLM on a clean circuit rather than physically close to the panel. It also helps if all of your stuff is dual band. And even if it is all dual band, a very noisy power line seems to "drown-out" the radio com. Not sure how the SH engineers managed that.

Mine update temp but will let it drift a bit before updating, hard to say exactly, but it is regularly off by more than a degree but never by more than 2. The same is true for humidity, but humidity is constantly bouncing around so I get a rediculous number of humidity log entries. I would prefer that it update the temp with even a .5 degree change and not so much with the humidity.

I have seen people say they had 50 feet. I have 2 isy's one has about a 20 foot cat6 cable and works flawlessly. The other is just a regular ~5 ft cat5 patch cable and also, of course, works fine.

Making dry air humid consumes energy. So, dumping warm humid air outside, sucking in cold dry air from outside to replace that air, then heating and humidifying that air is a waste of energy. However, I'm not sure we are talking about enough warm humid air to make a difference you'll notice in your energy bill. I guess it depends on your shower habits.

If you wanted to get fancy you would "zone" your exhaust fan. One zone would be the outside and the other zone would be your air intake plenum. When conditions call for humidity, it would vent into the plenum. When you turn on your bathroom fan, that would trigger your furnace fan as well. That would mix the bathroom air with air from the rest of the house. Now, that is probably way overkill. . . .but you could say you did it. EDIT: Oh and, don't do that for the toilet fan.

Yeah, I am not sure you want to vent out that hard to come by humidity. Seems like it would be better to mix and move that humid air through the whole house. Of course that would need to be monitored to ensure you aren't getting anything crazy out of whack.

Mother nature can do that for sure (in the desert). But, man, it would be one hell of a dehumidifier that could pull humidity down that far (in an environment where it would natuarlly be higher). As an example. Sadly, a few years ago, I had a major pipe break and it flooded my office. They sucked out the water and put maybe 8 gigantic dehumidifiers in a space of about 4000sf. The humidity got below 40, but barely. My electric bill that month was quite special too.

Your situation is not a building issue. From the standpoint of damaging a structure, it would be virtually impossible to over dehumidify. And on those problem days you refer to, the temp inside and outside is basically the same . . so condensation won't happen. You may have issues with your cigars, I don't know much about what humidity they like. Problems in the south often times revolve around over-sized AC units that cool, but dom't dehumidify. Combine that with a poorly implemented insulation/vapor barrier and you have condensation under the outside sheathing of your home. This is much more of a problem in the south because mold is just all around more prevalent. Plus, once you do get the condensation, it tends to create wet stuff that is also at a good temp to grow mold.

I wouldn't worry about frosty windows. The windows could eventually get rot on the muttons/frames, but that would be a slow and obvious thing. It is the mold in your walls that you'll never see and could explode out of control before you know it. That is the problem. Good windows might go along with well implemented wall insulation. Or maybe not. Especially if you replaced the originals with better ones.

There is a lot more to perfect humidity than just indoor and outdoor temp. It has a ton to do with your insulation. Extremely good insulation and you can go with a much higher indoor humidity. The problem is condensation and mold. If you have poor insulatoin and poorly designed vapor barriers, warm humid air from inside can find cold surfaces in your walls and condense. The same in reverse can happen when it is warm and humid outside and you are air conditioning your house. Northern homes typically have to keep a vapor barrier on the interior sideo of the insulation and in Southern homes you look to vapor barrier on the other side of the insulation. Also a big deal when putting in a refrigerated room/wine cellar. If you live somewhere that spends a lot of time at each extreme. .. well I don't know? Closed cell foam? That is a vapor barrier in its entire thickness. (note: never vapor barrier both sides of your insulation) The best humidity for humans and the stuff in your house is typically right around 50% and has nothing to do with outside temp. The Monet hanging on your wall doesn't give a rat's a** what the outside temp is . . . right?

When I built my house, I had outlets installed above the mantels of the fireplaces. They installed them nicely only about an inch above the top of the mantel (as expected). However, I didn't think about the fact that now you can't plug a lamplinc in. So I had to flip them upside down. So that is why I have two outlets with the ground up in my house. I probably should have had them installed sidways.

?? Seriously, I added the word "the". In the US, baseboard is whatever you pick. Period. And no, I can't say anything to Larry because I have no idea what code may or may not exist in Canada. Feel free to research it if you like. My house has 5/8 thick baseboard. My neighbor has no baseboard at all. So no, in the US baseboard has no defined thickness. End of story.

You said "in the US baseboard is 1/2 inch" Since there is no code for baseboard thickness, then you are just making stuff up.

He is talking about an iolinc, so I assume it is the wire between the iolinc and whatever it is monitoring/controlling.

Baseboard is whatever you pick. There is no code that says 1/2 inch thick. I have been in modern homes with no baseboard at all.

I wouldn't let anyone pull off my baseboards. They would be trashed. You'd need all new ones. If you have anything uniqe it would be very difficult to replace. Assuming your baseboards are caulked and painted to the wall, you'll have buggered up your wall and need to float it and repaint the walls (or I guess you could get taller baseboards). It's already enough of a mess to have the floors refinished, why make it that much worse. Personally, my hardwood floors do not have quarter round. They were finished and then the baseboars were installed new construction. But when the day comes to refinish, I'll have quarter round installed. Quarter round is just one more detail to your baseboards. I guess you find it offensive, but I think most people don't and in fact I bet a lot of people like the extra detail.

If you have ever had the floor refinished, typically you need the quarter round since you can't sand the last mm against the baseboard, especially in the corners.

well the half naked women thing is nice, this is nicer. https://sewelldirect.com/ghost-flat-led-extension-25-ft?stm_type=ppc&stm_source=adwords&product_id=SW-32874-25&campaignid=201733323&adgroupid=15135391923&creative=64184576403&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4bzSBRDOARIsAHJ1UO4LkqGO1eboG7yWAiB2yGVCCdkyTe3X_ysffw5YJ7EgfWUa6jXdpusaAtHOEALw_wcB OK, maybe not nicer.

Unless you only want some of the programs in those folders to stop, then there is no need to nest folders. Just add the condition to each of those folders. For example, create a state variable "s.stop.programs" In each of those folders put If s.stop.programs is 0 Then allow programs to run *Note that if you already have other condtions for the folder, use an "or" to connect this condition. Now create a program (that is not in any of those folders) If (whatever conditions you want to cause the programs to stop) Then set s.stop.programs to 1 set s.stop.programs to 0

Yes, that is true. "for" terminology also allows you to change only the "from" time of a program if your intent is to still have it run the else clause at the same interval of time later. So, it would be slightly easier to edit the program if that is your intent. But, those two things are fairly insignificant in my book.

No, "for" does not keep the programming running and available for a stop. As I mentioned, the program executes twice and is idle between. While I did not actually do what you say, I don't see a "stop" command on a program that ISY lists as "idle" causing anything to happen.

STOP DISABLE Two different commands. Stop ends a repeat/wait without affecting the programs next trigger event Disable blocks an "if" clause from self triggering (and also causes a "Stop") In the context of common English, there could be some confusion, but in the context of ISY, different things.

No, you can't stop it (either one). While I did not actually try it, the program lists as "idle" during the interval with a "next run time" 15 seconds (in this example) after the original run time. A stop command issued to an idle program has no affect. I also did not test a reboot, but per ISY operations, all programs are evaluated at boot, true/false status is set (when possible), programs that fall into the "catchup" time frame trigger, and next run time set (when possible). I don't see any reason why it would not apply here the same. Meaning that a reboot during the interval should still trigger the else clause at the end of the "for" period.

I just tested it. It is two triggers. I did from 12:10:00 for 15 seconds Then set variable 1 Else set variable 2 And it first set the variable to 1, then 15 seconds later it set it to two. The program summary page alos listed the program as having completed at 12:10:00 with a true stats, and had a next run time of 12:10:15 during the interval. After 12:10:15 it showed the status as being false with the next run time of tomorrow at 12:10:00 So it is identical to From 12:10:00 To 12:10:15 Not sure what the point is of having both.

I stand corrected. I assume it is identical to what I did, however, which would explain why I never noticed it. Though you would need to confirm this, I assume it is two triggers independent of any sort of internal "waiting". In other words, when it compiles something like From 1pm for 1 hour It compiles to two triggers, 1pm and 2pm making it independent of a reboot. If not, then I would not use that when I could use From 1 pm To 2pm which is for sure two triggers.