apostolakisl

It doesn't matter who makes the device (ISY, Indigo, whatever), they sell it. And if they sell you a device and then turn around and make it non-functional by withholding the PLM from you, they would be challenged. Probably would be forced to either make the part (plm) available or sell the rights to someone else to make it.

I don't think Insteon is in a position to discontinue the PLM until they haven't sold anything that uses the PLM for at least 5 years. With SH selling multiple software packages and ISY on their own website, they are obliged to continue to provide access to PLM's for a while. I'm sure there would be a lawsuit if they tried to stop providing what amounts to an essential "part" for products that they sell, especially considering the typical life span of that part. Now if SH only sold the PLM and none of the products that use the PLM, it would be different.

@Michel Kohanim Will polyglot support for RPi be discontinued? If so, when, if not, what will the difference be between the two?

Polyglot allows ISY to "natively" control/interact with ANY IP enabled device that has a published API. By "natively" I mean it shows up in your list of devices. All of this of course requires that someone write the code for the node server, where polyglot is the platform. It is not unlike the play store where there are a gazillion apps that people have written on the android platform that lets your phone do all sorts of things besides make phone calls. So far the "polyglot play store" is just a couple dozen "apps" and they are all free. Hopefully this will catch on and we could get hundreds or even thousands of options, and probably there will be a mechanism for people to get paid for them.

OK then, I guess they are doing a BT mesh that hops around the house like zwave or Insteon. I have to wonder what the range is. I was always under the impression that BT was a 20 foot kind of thing. After googling, I see that there are 3 classes and the high power one is 100m, though I don't believe I've ever seen a device that uses class 3. I'm assuming that is clear line of sight only. I can't find anywhere that lists the class for the Eaton lights or the Polisy BT. I'm assuming that since this is 2 way, both devices must be at high power for it to work at distance. I wonder when Eaton came out with this stuff, this is the first I've heard of it.

Agree, what is BT for? BT only works for short distances so it isn't like you would use it to control a fan that is probably not going to be near it. Maybe you can use BT to configure it? Ideally the next gen of ISY will have the polisy hardware built-in and use a single GUI to control all of it. Of course the GUI could be done regardless of the physical nature of the device.

Absolutely 100% agree that people new to ISY consistently make the same incorrect assumptions about what will trigger a program to start/restart and the ensuing unexpected outcomes. I don't think this is a problem with the language, it is a problem with preconceived notions. I understand JAVA GUI is now in its last days. Perhaps when the new GUI interface is being developed, a "beginners mode" could be included with pop-ups or bubbles or whatever that give friendly reminders about how things are going to behave and common incorrect assumptions that result in unexpected program behavior. For example, if you include a "Wait" in your program, a bubble pops up and says "remember, the wait will terminate upon a condition in the "If" clause changing during the wait"

I had an issue with a couple of random "all on" events. This was rather surprising when your entire house turns on for seemingly no reason. This was a well known issue that to the best of my knowledge was never fully worked out. However, for whatever reason, it seems to have stopped. Not only me, but I don't see that topic on the forum any more.

Maybe try completely uninstalling java and re-installing? I do look forward to the day when UD dumps the java console.

When all else fails. . . did you try rebooting the computer?

I traded out my IR version for the ethernet version. The itach doesn't support newer wifi security protocols that my Unifi AP use. It was going to have to configure a special ssid with downgraded security just for the itach. I have found that the ethernet version works better. It is pretty close to >99% success rate now, where before it was closer to 90%. I have also bought a Harmony with the hub. That works very well and is much easier to configure. You don't need to learn the ir codes, harmony has essentially every code in the universe in its database. It is also a 2 way communication so ISY knows the status of devices controlled from the remote.

The bypass above takes it out of the circuit all together, like it isn't there at all. If your concern for bypass is manual shut off only, then leaving your current switch in the loop is all that is needed. If you want ability to manually shut off and manually turn it on, then leave both your current switch in the loop and add the switch above. So throwing the switch shown above makes it just like you have it now with the ability to flip your other switch on/off and have it behave the same.

I like that. Very reasonably priced and high capacity. The OP could just leave the manual switch as is and put this device elsewhere on the circuit having both manual cut-off as well as an automated/remote one.

specs say "1hp motor 120vac only". I'm not sure what that means for a 240vac motor except I suppose you just can't use it for that. Not exactly sure what electrical reason there is for a 240vac motor of any size being off the board when other 240vac (or 277vac) loads are OK. But if that switch directly switches power to your well pump, I'm thinking you don't have a very big well pump. My pump has a 40amp 240vac dedicated breaker with the only switching aside from the circuit breaker is the pump controller. The pump controller has low voltage control connections on it to allow for external control. A multimeter answers your voltage question real quick. With the switch off, measure from each of the two connections on the switch to ground. If they are both 120vac, then you have a 240v hookup. If only one is 120vac and the other is 0, then you have 120vac. Also, if one wire is white and the other a color (black usually), then it should be 120vac, though it doesn't rule out someone using improper wire colors.

If you have a multimeter with amp measuring capacity, measure the volts and amps at the switch in your house that you have pictured. Probably, as was mentioned, the switch is not powering the pump but rather a control relay. Unless your pump is really small.

I don't understand why there are two commands then in your program above? Cool and off. If it is a toggle, then it is just one command. And what does being "on" mean? Does it mean the thing is running, blowing cold air regardless of the temp? Or does it mean that the unit is now cycling on/off as per the temperature it is detecting and the temp it is set to? You might also find out if whatever this cooling unit we are controlling here has IR codes that are dedicated "cool" and "off" rather than toggle. This is common, for example, with some tv's. The remote control has a power button that toggles it on/off, but if you go online you can often times download dedicated "on" and "off" commands.

None of this makes much sense. You have two different commands, but you say they do the same thing. .. toggle it? How/why are there two different commands if they are both the same command? What AC unit are you controlling here and what thermostat? You really should get a thermostat that works like a thermostat is supposed to work rather than try this work around. I really don't see this working no matter what since I assume when it is "on" it will still cycle off when it makes temp, which will cause the watts to drop even though it is "on". Or are you using ISY as the thermostat? Where ISY is input the actual temp and outputs an on/off command? I highly recommend against that.

OK, so this is fine then. I am able to manage these portal accounts, I just didn't click through enough menus to find it. So at this point the only issue is that they will get an email about the account renewal, correct? If I add them to my account, and list the church as the "preferred isy" for them, will they have any access to my personal ISY at all? Thanks.

They can simply ignore these license renewals, yes? The license is for the isy, not the user account, correct? This isn't an issue since the two people are not rogue or anything. But, this is very odd to allow multiple completely independent accounts to access and control the same device. I would suggest that you eliminate this capacity as it can easily get very messy. When I first go the portal I assumed that everyone would get access the same way I did and had them follow the procedure. Or at least have the ability to sever ties to a portal account from someone logged in to ISY locally. If they went into their own account and deleted that ISY, would that take care of things?

I am running an ISY at our church and have given access to a couple people. I did this by having them create their own isy portal account and then linking it to the church ISY and finally giving the authorization from the admin console. I am not sure at this point how to manage those users. Perhaps I should have added them under my portal account instead of them having their own? I do not see any of the other users on any menu I search.

My google home is now saying things like the following: "ok, turning on the pond air pump on. . . sorry I couldn't reach universal devices" for some items, but for others, it just works. This is hard to explain since the same universal devices ISY controls both items. I tried this multiple times back and forth, the one device works every time, the other device gives the error message. EDIT: OK, so I actually checked the pond air pump, and it does turn it on and off even though it says it couldn't reach universal devices.

Insteon thermostats can definitely be assigned to variables, at least in version 5.0.14. Here is a program I use to measure the difference between the set point and the actual. temp dif from set - [ID 0086][Parent 0082] If 'HVAC Mt. Tabor / Mt. Tabor-Hall-Back Wall' Temperature is not -50.0° Or 'HVAC Mt. Tabor / Mt. Tabor-Hall-Back Wall' Heat Setpoint is not 0° Then $i.temp.dif.from.set = 'HVAC Mt. Tabor / Mt. Tabor-Hall-Back Wall' Heat Setpoint ° $i.temp.dif.from.set -= 'HVAC Mt. Tabor / Mt. Tabor-Hall-Back Wall' Temperature ° Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') CAI webcontrol has two options. 1) Write PLC code on the CAI that posts directly to a variable using ISY REST interface 2) Install ioguys webcontrol software on a PC or RPi to interface your CAI and ISY. I have no temp probes on my CAI, but here is a program that I created just now that I'm pretty sure would set a variable based on temp reading from CAI. DST1 - [ID 014A][Parent 0093] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then $DST = 'WebControl8 / Temperature1' Status Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

what is the source of the temperature readings?

Heck, now that you mention it, I realize I knew that and in fact have one setup for leaving or returning home. Just to annoy my wife, I can say "raise shields" or "lower shields" to my Android phone and it runs all the home away or home returning programs. In fact, it closes any and all of the garage doors if open, but it does so via ISY triggering and Elk rule. As I mentioned the elk rule was already in place and works, so no need to redo it. I do have the issue with if I mindlessly first hit the regular garage door open/close button first, it screws up the garage door. That is why I was hoping to figure a reasonable way to monitor garage door movement.

I use my Elk to control my garage door with Elk Rules that check the current status of the door and do the right thing. I would have done this in ISY, but at the time there was no ISY Elk module. If I were to redo it I would use ISY. 1) You need to know the state of the garage door. In other words, an alarm system style door contact. It would also be nice to know if the garage door is currently and moving and which direction, but that has proven to be difficult. There is a thread on that in here. 2) Write a program in ISY that for closing the garage door. Program close garage door If status of whatever device you are using to monitor door contactor is open Then close contact on garage door button relay for 1 second 3) write the same program for opening but check for contactor closed 4) Write two more programs for triggering these If blank Then run close garage door program if Else Blank 5) In the portal, set google home to run the trigger program on the words "close the garage door" and the same thing for open garage door. 6) Now you would say to google, "ok googe, turn close the garage door on". That will then check to see if the garage door is open and if so, close it. The caveat to this is if the door is currently in motion it will not get it right. I don't know of any way to get google home to run a program using any words aside from turn on (runs then) or turn off (runs else). If so, you could make it more intuitive by just saying "close the garage door".