apostolakisl

I'm guessing the issue is how the ATT gateway IP passthrough works. It isn't really a bridge and it will "pick off" traffic it thinks belongs on its subnet or that it thinks is unsolicited. Assuming your gateway configures similar to my ATT Uverse gateway 1) Use the DMZ plus mode on the Arris. This will instruct your Arris to pass almost everything through to whatever you designate. In your case, you designate your TP link router. 2) Set your TP link router to use 192.168.2.x subnet

It sounds like your ISY might be on the wrong subnet? Are you able to access your ISY admin console when connected to each of those two routers using a computer simultaneously connected to the same one? I assume you can at least log into ISY when on the ATT device from a computer also on the ATT. From there, check to see that the ISY is in DHCP mode. This is not a port forwarding issues. That is only an issue for traffic that is initiated from outside your local network.

I just checked my log. I have 9 thermostats and the log has 65,000 entries for humidity. I isolated one thermostat, 10,000 entries in less than 3 weeks. It appears that humidity reports as the actual 1-100 percent and reports with a single percent change. A typical interval is 1 minute. Temp on the other hand rarely reports and looks like it requires a 4 point change. It does not report the actual temp however, it is rescaled so I don't know what 4 points is in degrees F. The typical time interval is generally in the hours range. Now, what does this all mean? I don't know if all this traffic is adversely affecting anything.

I just hit the quote button without deleting all the stuff I wasn't talking about. Just saying, running an on/off module just to have as a flag seems kind of less than ideal. Don't you have at least one device already in those scenes that is only ever operated by the scene? Any device that is a scene controller that is not also a responder to some other scene will work. Any such device will always track the scene. The only exception is that all devices are responders to ISY so if an ISY program controlled or if you manually did it from ISY, it would be out of sync with the scene, but my guess is that you aren't doing that. If it were me, I would have programs track the scene as I listed above.

OK, I'm confused. I think I hear you saying you have to have multiple Amazon accounts, one for each echo, but simultaneously I think I hear you saying they can be on the same Amazon account. I'm confused.

I don't really sit around with my eyes closed taking in music. Aside from my theater system, music is there to break the background silence while I engage in other tasks. I guess my real question is, if I had the portal, does that offer any ability to differentiate which Echo is sending the command when there are multiple echos on the same Amazon acct.

I guess if you have the on/off module just sitting around and have no other use for it, you can use it as a "flag". But that seems like an expensive way to track a scene. Why not use a program? if <list all the things that control the scene> is switched on and <list all the things that control the scene> is not switched off then - - - else - - - Now the true/false status of this program tracks the scene. I guess this is a little more work to set up and if you change what devices control the scene the program would need to be manually re-configured. My guess is that your scenes aren't changing often.

I use the prime music feature on several of these. I assume your "dummy" accounts don't get that?

Benoit, I have used IFTTT for my echo commands direct to my ISY (no portal). With my echos all being on the same Amazon account (I have 6 of them), all respond to my ifttt trigger. Are you saying that with the portal, I could specify that only certain echo's respond to certain commands? For example, I might want the echo in my bedroom to be the only one that accepts the command to turn on/off my bedroom light. Or, I might want to be able to say "shut light off" and have each echo respond by shutting off the light in the room it is located. I suppose I could set up my echo's on different accounts, but I suspect I will run into issues there with my Amazon prime features and stuff.

Oh come on now, it isn't that hard without the portal! I use IFTTT, not so bad. If I were starting from scratch, I would use the portal, but I already have a bunch of things that access the ISY using REST. Steps: 1) install self signed SSL on your ISY 2) open port 443 on your router and point to ISY LAN IP 3) subscribe to a DDNS company (I use no-ip) 4) open an account with IFTTT (free) and link your Alexa account 5) set up commands on IFTTT - Use "Alexa" for your "this" - Use "webhook" for your "that" - go to http://yourisylanip/rest/nodes to get a list of all the nodes on your system - use "find" function in your webbrowser and search the name of the device or scene you are looking to add to Alexa - the node name is will look similar to this <pnode>45 8D 28 1</pnode> - enter rest command into "url" section of the webhook, all the other stuff leave blank. It will look similar to this https://admin:password@yourddnsurl/rest/nodes/16 47 2B 1/cmd/DOF (DOF is device off) - say "Alexa, trigger <your chosen statement here>" and Alexa will respond "sending that to ifttt" and 1 or 2 second later it happens. The process is very similar using google home.

That's what KPL's are for.

Or use IFTTT and send a REST command to your ISY with the node name of the scene.

1) ISY can't read your mind. You have to have some condition that exists in ISY to have it affect actions. IF that means installing a weight sensor under your couch cushion, then I guess you need to do that. 2) Again, ISY can't read your mind. If the condition exists in ISY, then you can set programs and/or folders to respond to those conditions.

I'm not positive I understand question 1. I guess you are asking about disabling the program if you are already in bed. You obviously need some indication in ISY that you are in bed. Pretty much, that means you need to do something that indicates you are in bed. Like a door sensor on your bedroom door? A KPL button by your bedside? I don't know what, but that just add the status of that device to the program. Question 2. Again, not positive I get your exact situation. But I have programs that trigger on an elk zone opening, turn a light on, wait, then turn it off (all in the "then"). But I add to the "if" if control is not switched on and ( other conditions ) Then light on wait light off Else . . . Using the "control not switched on" allows me to abort the timer by hitting the on switch before the thing times out and shuts down the light. You can also add a folder and put the above program in that folder. In the condition of the folder, put things light the status of a light being on as a disabling thing

No. Insteon devices must be connected to line voltage or the device itself won't power on properly. The dimming part is different, but still, a triac designed for 120vac won't dim properly with 12vac and not at all with dc current.

But this requires 5.x firmware. You can also do If $state variable = 1 Then set fan on wait 30 min set $state variable =0 Else set fan off wait 30 min set $state variable = 1 You need to add other parameters to this program to control how it starts and stops.

See the edit from my first post switching over to status.

Yes, sorry, should have included that. In fact, no matter what you put in the "if" section, you need to terminate the fan using the else to have a shut off command. Whenever the "if" section turns false, the "then" stops running, but that doesn't mean it turns the fan off. It only means it stops turning the fan on and off every 30 minutes and if the fan happened to be "on" at that time, it will just stay on.

You'll need to note that "repeat while" is only in 5.x firmware. Plain repeat is what you'll need to use. Your needs sound simple. If (KPL is switched on and KPL is not switched off) or other activation Then repeat every 30 minutes Set fan on wait 30 minutes Set fan off Please note: repeat every 30 minutes is used since, for some logic issue in ISY, the 30 minute wait within the repeat doesn't count toward the 30 minute repeat. EDIT: Not sure what you mean by "turn night fan on" command or "turn night fan off" command. You might use If KPL button status is on Then . . . Using Status of the KPL, then you can turn the button on or off via Alexa, or mobile linc, or direct press of the button and this program will run while it is on.

Before uninstalling the device, did you try a factory reset on it? Pull the tab just below the paddle. Typically you need to use a butter knife or similar. It can be tough to pull it out all the way to the point that it stays out. Anyway, after puling it out all the way and letting it sit for 5 seconds or so (you know you got it out if the led shuts off), push the tab back in all the way and hold it in until the device beeps. At this point it should have factory reset. Now do a "restore device" from ISY. I cut the female end off an extension cord and installed alligator clips on the free wires which I use to test switchlincs and other hard wired devices without having to wire it in. Just a word of caution, those alligator clips will give you a shock if you touch them while it is plugged in. I used alligators with plastic covering, but still, pay attention to what you touch. The plastic coverings are colored so you can use red (or black)/white for ease in recognition of hot/neutral. And you do not want to clip "hot". The arcing that may occur can damage the electronics. Clip it up first, be certain that the wires are stabalized and not touching anything they shouldn't (blue tape them down to your work table), then plug in.

You can do both. Personally, I have gone with ISY 100% because my programs are too complicated for the built-in programming and subject to frequent change which is a PITA when you have to go to lots of thermostats in person. I now have 9 thermostats covering 2 buildings at my church running both the sanctuary and the office/activities building. We have lots of exceptions to the rules so using the built-in programming doesn't make much sense. Plus we have several hvac units conditioning the same room and using ISY I am able to stage the units to create a "variable speed" hvac system that runs more efficiently and is better at pulling humidity out. I have algorithms that handle multiple thermostats so I can change how multiple thermostats behave by simply changing one time on one ISY program. But you can always create a base program that lives on the thermostat itself and then use ISY to over-ride that. Since ISY can set the "mode" on the thermostat to use its own program or it can set the mode to auto/cool/heat/off directly and set the temp directly. If ISY takes it off of "program", then you would need ISY to put it back on "program" when it is done with its over-ride. I see two advantages. If you develop a comm issue, the thermostats will still run the built-in program, or if you have an ISY crash it will do the same. I have never had an ISY crash . . . ever, though I have had PLM crash . . .which is effectively the same thing of course. Of course if you develop your comm issue after taking the thermostat off of program and before putting it back to program, then you would still need to manually go around and set them back to program. My ISY programs leave the mode on "auto" at all times and shift the temps as needed.

A float switch that is installed inside a pvc tube that you run all the way down to the bottom of the tank and have drilled some holes in it to let water in and out. Since the water level doesn't get above the salt, with a tube such as this, it won't matter, it will be "protected" from the salt and only contain water when water is present. I would design as follows. 1 inch pvc tube a float made of some material that fits inside of the pvc tube a pole or rod that you can attach to that float which is a bit shorter than the pvc tube/float como a magnet that can be attached to the top end of the pole above caps for both ends of the pvc. Reed style open/close switch as used for alarm systems. Assemble the float/rod/magnet. Drill holes along the side of the pvc to allow water in/out but not hunks of salt. Put the float/rod/magnet assembly inside of pvc, float side at the end with the holes Cap the ends Attach reed switch to outside of end of pvc with magnet Shove the hole assembly into the tank so that it sits below the level of water when the tank is making new brine. Attach magnetic reed switch to io link. Now, when water is in brine tank, it enters holes in pvc and floats the float/magnet/rod assembly to the top of the pvc where the reed switch detects the magnet and closes the circuit. Attach

You can still do this, but need to separate the dates from times.

There are two recent threads about this, one started by me and the other I forget who, but I participated in it. Basics 1) Thermostats are RF only, so you must have either good RF range to the PLM (assuming dual band PLM), or other dual band devices to get the RF onto the power lines 2) The "cooling", "idle", and "heating" are "control" commands. They have no status. It is like a "fast-on". You can not query the condition after the fact, while to all logical thinking, cooling and heating are states, as far as Insteon com is concerned, they are not states, they are one-off events that occur only when the change from idle to cooling/heating or vice-versa occurs. Finally, you seem to be having an issue with comm to your target device, as well as your thermostat. In short, as you have suspected, you need to improve your comm. dual band devices (especially PLM) and best if you can locate your PLM so that the rf from the thermostats and other devices in question can go direct without the power lines in play at all.

I edited my previous post with a more complete logging of the events for debugging.