apostolakisl

Yes. Just don't get shocked. If indeed one of those wires that you connect at the switchlinc box is hot at the fixture, then use this wire to connect to the red (load) lead on the Insteon switch and the other end connects to the hot on the light. You stated you had neutrals already at both boxes so connect the fixture and switchlinc neutrals to the neutrals already there.

Tasker sets a variable on ISY for me. When my phone loses it's wifi connection to my home wifi it sets the variable. ISY runs a delay on that to ensure the lost wifi was me actually leaving and not just a momentary issue with the wifi.

I use my bunghole strictly for O, no I's.

Yes, put the black wire on the insteon switch to the blues. Well one trick is to do the ohming out to find a wire that would work for the load. The other thing you can do is connect the other wires to your hot one at a time and look for one of the wires at the fixture to be hot. When you find one, connect it to the load wire on the insteon switch and connect the end at the fixture to the hot on the light. Just cap the wires at the other box and any unused wires at the other two boxes. If there are multiple neutrals, keep them spliced together. Otherwise, cap the rest separately.

This seems the most simple http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultrasonic-Range-Finder-Maxbotix-LV-EZ4/321499270140?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36142%26meid%3D3dbab5dd4c6b442ea159c1ec52a39642%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311139739778 An ultrasonic range finder mounted in an opening in the top projecting down onto the fluid. It will output 10mv per inch, so if you have an AD converter that you can interface with ISY you can post the depth of the fluid (total depth minus what this device outputs).

Are you proposing a float in the tank that transmits to a rod that exits the tank, pushes on the long arm of a lever that translates the full range of fluid in the tank into 5 inches?

OK, then no need to unhook the spliced blues. They obviously have daisy chained the hots through that box to get power to some other box for something else. If you did take them apart, you would need to resplice them since presumably something down stream would go dead if you didn't. If I understand correctly, your hot blues are in the box that you are putting the switchlinc. If so, all you need now is a wire between that box and the fixture. This is your load.

Yes, you could leave them together and add your switchlinc hot to the mix. Do your other boxes have any blue wires? Are they also hot? If not, then this means the hot has entered that box on one of those blues and then got spliced to the other blues to deliver power to something else unrelated, like a different light or outlet.

If you disconnected everything and now you get power on 1 wire at one box, you know where your hot is entering the system. If that hot is in the box where you want the switch, then that part is done. If not, you need to find a path to get the hot to the switchbox. This is where ohming out the other wires comes in. You find a wire that goes from hot location to switchbox, then you splice them. You might need to go through the fixture box to get there depending on how it was wired in the first place. Then you need a wire that goes from switchbox to fixture for the load. You already have neutrals at all locations as I understand. So at this point your done. Process to follow 1) Cap and mark your hot 2) At the switchbox, splice one of the wires (not the hot) to ground/neutral 3) Go to fixture box and test each wire to ground. If one of those wires has 0 resistance, then you can mark off that wire as the load wire. 4) If none of the wires ohm out to 0, then go to the other switch box and find the wire there. label each end the same for future reference 5) Repeat for the other wires in the primary switch box. At that point, you might be done provided you can get hot and a load wire to the switchbox. If not, you need to go to the other switchbox and do the same process. Once you have all the wires labeled, you connect what needs to be connected to get a load and a hot at the switchbox.

You could use a freescale pressure transducer tapped into a line that is at the same level as the bottom of the tank. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/freescale-semiconductor-nxp/MPX5010GP/MPX5010GP-ND/464055 Connect that to an AD converter and post to a variable on ISY. The CAI webcontrol would do that. I would expect the 0 - 1.45 psi range to be adequate for the tank. 1.45 psi. is 3.3 feet of water and fuel oil I assume is lighter than water, so you should get a bit more range, maybe 5 feet. If your tank is a barrel shape on its side you'll need to do some math since the depth of the oil will not be linearly tracking to volume. Also if you have access on the top, you could use an ultrasonic device to measure the level of the oil. Again, a barrel on its side will need some math.

I'm sure conduit as a ground is electrically sound, but it isn't code around here. Grounded conduit or not, you are required to have a ground wire here. It really doesn't matter. You just need to figure out which wire at box a is the other end of the same wire at box b, and so on. While I'm sure that many of us who have screwed around with these a bunch could do this without unhooking everything and ohming it out, it is kind of hard to figure this out any other way when using a forum as the only means of communication. Keeping the eye on the ball, you need a hot, neutral, and load wire at the switch box and at the fixture you need the other end of the load wire and a neutral. Anything else is capped. The only trick is that it is possible that one of those wires may need to be spliced through at the unused switch box.

You have to unhook all of the wires. If you are testing to a screw, it is not unhooked. This includes the wires at the fixture. I have to say I have never seen residential use conduit to all of the boxes and I thought code called for grounds for a really really long time (even in the presence of grounded conduit). Just to be clear, your going to have to unhook everything anyway at the two switchboxes, you are only adding work by unhooking and then rehooking at the fixture. And there is a good chance that the best way to wire this would have you changing the wires at the fixture as well.

It is very doable to not put a switch at your second box and have a single Insteon switch at the primary box. First, breaker off. The easiest way to tell you how to do it is to unhook all the non-ground and non-neutral wires (leave the grounds spliced together and the white's spliced together . . . but not to each other of course). Test that your whites are actually neutral by ohming between the whites and the grounds. Should be ~ 0 ohms. Turn the breaker back on. With your volt meter, find the hot by touching each candidate wire with one probe and the bare ground wire with the other probe. The hot will only be one wire at one of the three locations. breaker off again. If your hot is at the box where you want your switchlinc, you can call that part quits. If not, you need to find a traveler wire that goes between the hot location and that box. Splice each non-ground wire one a time to your ground at the switchlinc box, then go to the other two boxes with an ohm meter and cross each candidate wire there with the ground wire in that box. When you find the wire with ~ 0 ohms of resistance, then you found the two ends of that wire. Mark it. Do this until you figure out enough wires to have the following 1) Hot at the switchlinc box 2) A wire that can get the load to the light It is quite possible that at least one of these wires will go through the other box to get there. It sounds like you already have neutrals at every box, so that part is easy. Cap off all wires at the unused box and put a blank plate on it. Maybe use a sharpie and write on the backside of the plate what you did for future owner of house.

Yes, that is the trick. Fortunately the first time I tried to replace a device it wasn't in a folder and I was very pleased at how simple it was. Later on I was like "where the hell is that option?". Only to figure out that you need to have it in the root folder. But without the first time success, I may have missed it all together.

This is just to find and replace one currently enrolled device with another currently enrolled device in programs that reference that device. I don't think there is any role in using this when replacing a dead device unless you were to manually program the new device identical to the old device first and then swap it with the old device. If you want to replace the name of a device with a different name, you do that in the main console tree by right clicking and renaming it. The new name propagates through to all the programs.

No. When you do "replace with" it gives the new device all the attributes of the old device, including the name, and the old device is gone, along with the former name of the new device. Personally, I do it like Stusviews above and not name the new device at all so it just shows up as an insteon id.

Sounds like your email isn't configured properly.

Just finished linking my contraption to ISY. I decided to use a CAI webcontrol board because I had one that I wasn't using. It works great. START TSTNE IP8 RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET That is the code. I used IP8 because it is next to the 5v output on the ISY connector and I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/201490541284?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITDupont connectors to terminate wires and a double one like that plugs in catching the 5v and IP8. URL1 sends a REST command to ISY setting a state variable which triggers an ISY program. EDIT: Changed the code because the drier has a wrinkle prevention fluff that lasts about 12 seconds. So I added a 15 second (15000 ms) non-blocking delay. Now if I could figure out how to get the washer to have a simple open/close circuit for the webcontrol to monitor, then I could kill two birds with 1 stone. START SET VAR1 IP8 TSTNE VAR1[15000] RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET

If it were me I would use a cai webcontrol board with a 1-wire temp probe and glue the temp sensor to the back of the oven. The cai can be quickly programmed to post the temp to an ISY variable and you could write a program on ISY to notify you at some particular temp or if it stays above some temp for some period of time. Of course this is not the temp inside the oven, but I am quite certain that if the oven is on, the surface of the back of the oven would be quite warm.

The only other thought is if the scene is not complex (only one load device), you might consider something like Scene on wait some time set 'the load switch' 50% wait some time set 'the load switch' 100% wait some time . . . set scene off

I think you might be better served by having 2 scenes for each of the 2 lighting situations (a full bright scene and a dimmed scene). Your program would then read more or less like oberkc's in post 10.

You tube links.

The packaging says nothing about gas/electric driers. But as you mentioned, the point is moot since you would just use the synchrolinc on a gas drier.

OK, very simple and cheap solution installed and functioning. 1) buy one of these for $6 http://www.lowes.com/pd_52690-85334-VTL0024___?productId=3126471&pl=1&Ntt=drier+vent+draft+blocker 2) buy an alarm system contact. I used one of these http://www.homesecuritystore.com/winn-br-1015because I already had it. The standard 3/8 probably works just as well. (EDIT: This is the exact brand/model I used http://www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/recessed_magnetic/50rs_12_series_miniature.pdf) 3) epoxy the magnet part on the flap on the downwind (CORRECTION, UPWIND) side at the halfway point (about 1/2 inch below the hinge) pointing toward the edge. 4) epoxy the reed part on the outside in line with the magnet (up against the downwind side of the flange pointing at the magnet) 5) install this contraption to the vent opening in the wall behind your drier (pointing the proper direction of course). 6) connect the hose from drier to the draft blocker 7) connect the wires from the reed switch to your io linc Total cost not including io linc about $10. Total time to install, about 20 minutes (not including waiting for glue to dry) All wires are inside Also you get the draft blocking bonus Doesn't use any non-approved drier vent parts Pearls By attaching the magnet on the flap fairly close to the hinge, it adds very little rotational force to the flapper, so it won't interfere with the proper weighting of the flap. You could put the magnet and reed at the bottom, but it would add more rotational force. The reed/magnet combo I used was a left over from when I installed my alarm and is a really small magnet and reed, but I think the standard 3/8 one would work as well.

I would make a quick check of code as Larry suggested. But, I think it is OK. I base this on the fact that not only does code allow it in my office, they require it. They require at least one light in each major hallway to be switchless and thus on 24/7 (unless you shut of the breaker).