apostolakisl

I have two of the Elk WSV's. They are built like a brick S*** house. One at my office and one at home. They spin in an endless circle for on/off/on/off. They have cams with set screws on a post that trigger micro-switches to know the position. These are adjustable if somehow they are not stopping at the proper locations. There is an indicator on it so you can see what position it is in at any given time. You can put a wrench on it and turn it manually if the motor should fail or there is a power issue. Everything I say here is based on my experience with the original Elk WSV, not the newer version.

I am pretty sure you are correct on this. Just like electrical, you only own what is after the meter.

After the irrigation. When you go out of town, I assume you will want your house water off but still wan't your grass to not die. I suppose you could program it to open while irrigating, but then you might just be irrigating the inside of your house for a couple hours in addition to your lawn.

Or just buy one unit and a set of caps. This assumes that your unit won't burn out at a really inconvenient time. If you are someone who knows how to solder, expect the entire repair (first screw to last screw) to take about 30 minutes. This assumes you have a workbench and soldering station ready to go. You should understand that switching out a PLM can take hours depending on how many devices and links you have. So a repair would likely be much faster than a replace since no re-writing of your links will need to occur. It is possible you might need to do a "restore plm" if the flash memory gets messed up in the process of the plm's death throws, but a PLM restore is pretty quick since it only restores the plm and does not have to replace all the plm links on every device in your house.

I'm not sure what this series of programs is doing besides setting a variable to the current temp.

An always on PC could ping your phone once/minute then run a rest command to ISY when it changes state. You'd need to write scripts to do this which might take a while to figure out. Probably you could get a Rasberry Pi to do it also. Or you could go back to Android and use all the wonderful features of Tasker once again.

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Networking:Tasker

I use tasker to set a variable on my isy when it is logged into my home wifi. I don't think ISY has a ping function, but could be wrong.

You might consider getting a new one and repairing the old one for a spare. Currently I have two, and I had to replace the caps on both of them. I bought a new one a little over two years ago and replaced the caps on the old one at that time. About 2 months ago, the new one died, right on schedule, and I dropped the old one with new caps in. It has worked perfectly for 2 months. The old one I recapped and "burned it in" for one month using my old ISY99 as the test vehicle and it survived the burn in. So now it sits in wait. Maybe I'll never need it.

They do make dimmable 12v transformers. The only question is whether they will work with such a tiny amp draw. The ones I am familiar with are intended for 12v halogen lights and thus are designed for a lot more watts than the draw of your leds.

Just saw this post and it is a week old, but yes, I am sure. The capacitor fits fine. And yes, it is a lot bigger and at first glance you are like "no way" but the thing drops right in perfectly, no jury rigging at all.

The original list of caps is no longer available. I posted substitutions a few weeks ago for the ones no longer available. I repaired mine using those substitutions and about a month into it, it still works.

This is what I have at my office. https://forwardthinking.honeywell.com/new/50-9420.pdf I have two of these controlling two heat pumps with 3 zones on each (one zone not used). It does allow for multi stages of heat and cool, but my heat pumps are single stage. Though do have aux heat.

I have used two brands. Rodgers White Honeywell Both used stock thermostats with standard thermostat wiring. They just call for cool or heat and the zone controller does the rest. EDIT: or fan of course too. There is no "I need cool really bad or I need just a little cool"

When you say you have a "white" controller at the air handler, do you mean a Rodgers-White brand, or do you mean that is a box that is the color white? Rodgers-White zone controllers I have had follow the standard universal wiring scheme and accept any thermostat that also follows that standard. If the colors are confusing you, check the wires at the controller to know what wire is performing what function. There isn't really any fancy magic with a zone controller. It just accepts the instruction from the thermostat the same as the furnace would directly, except it also opens/closes the appropriate damper. The only other thing is that if one zone calls for heat and another calls for cool, it will put the one on hold until the other is finished.

If your PLM is a bit older than 2 years, you are likely to find that it is only temporarily fixed. This is something that happens to PLM's that are on the brink.

Is your PLM a bit over 2 years old? Is the green led on? If the answer is yes and no, you likely have a dead plm. See the PLM thread on this site for how to fix, or buy a new one. The power going on and off is probably not the problem, except that perhaps a small surge from that might have been the straw that broke it's already nearly broken back.

This is a good question. I have only had one all on event, so perhaps I am not most qualified to characterize it. However, if you use if control . . . terminology, an all on event should not be an issue. I can tell you that I have the following program If control kpl button is switched on Then arm elk night mode and my all on event did not trigger that. I also have several other if control programs that do things like turn on the house music and what not and none of those ran either. I would be more careful with "is status" programs since I suppose that could trigger. I do not recall if ISY registered the change in status of all the devices or not during the all on event. I want to say yes, but I will not swear to it.

If the lights pull 480 then they are using two phases of the three to get that. You would then need a relay. I have never heard of single phase 480.

You are probably wrong to say what you just said. If your maintenance guy says you are on "480v" he probably means you are on 480v three phase. This means you have 3 phases of 277v. Cross two of those phases and you get 480v. Cross one phase to neutral you get 277v. If the lamps run on a single phase of the 480 service then the switch I listed above is specifically made for that.

I'm with Lee on this. If the led comes on and off when you push the button, it is not the tact switch. If the light that is not turning on/off is the load of that switch, then it could be a loose connection on the load wire, or the KPL's switching function could be broken. If it is a light that you expect to come on because it is linked to a different Insteon device, then it is likely defective links or a com issue.

I carefully put it in my bench vise with the edges of the pcb on each side touching the vise. In other words, the vise was open about 2 inches. My repair has survived the first 12 hours of burn in.

I would think that listing 277v means he is powering a single phase 277 device off of a 480v 3 phase wye service, not a 480v device and only interrupting one leg of it. The part about the load being inductive or resistive is good. Do they make 277v single phase motors though? Seems like anyone with 277v/480v available would want to take advantage of 3 phase since it would be better and cheaper. But we are making lots of assumptions here. Would be good to know the truth.

This works at least initially. I'll let this burn in a few days on my old isy99i just to make sure.

http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band.html This is what you need, 277v 20 amp.