ISYhbsh01

The Phillips Hue and GE Link smart bulbs also turn full on after a power outage regardless of their previous state. I remember reading on a forum someone saying that all Zigbee devices behave this way but I am not sure if that's true. I have read people complaining how they woke up in the middle of the night to full brightness of their hue lights because of a half a second power outage. So to be fair it's not just Smarthome who did it this way ten years ago. The bigwigs like Phillips & GE do this today with their latest & greatest line of products. I do totally agree though that this is not an ideal implementation.

FYI: IP cameras can have a lag of a couple of seconds even when logged in directly to the camera, on a low resolution sub-stream, and with the seconds of the current time rolling. This is especially true when on a mobile connection. A lot of things can happen in a few seconds.

Secondary KPL buton LED's cannot be directly controlled even from the Admin Console. This is an Insteon protocol limitation. The only way to control secondary KPL LED's is by including the button in a scene & then you can turn the scene on/off. Once you create such a scene you can obviously control the scene via REST.

And of course, do not do any direct linking between devices. Everything should be done in the ISY.

Teken, A better option in my opinion, and which has been on my own to-do list for a long time, is to get yourself a cheap (but good) android phone. Have it always plugged in & connected to your Wi-Fi. Install Tasker which is a very powerful app that lets you do a million things including sending REST commands based on conditions (called contexts in Tasker) that you set up. There are several ways that you can get email data into Tasker. Two of them that comes to my mind is by either using the K-9 email app which has a plugin for Tasker, or by using Notify My Android which is a push notification service which also assigns you an email address and has a Tasker plugin as well. There is a learning curve to Tasker but once you have this set up & you get the hang of it, the sky is the limit for what you can do with it. The only possible downside for you is that once you will realize what you can do with Tasker you might never want to look at your iPhone ever again… If you keep an eye out on the Slickdeals.net website, you should be able to get every now & then a good prepaid Android phone for as low as $10 sometimes. You don’t have to activate it, you can just use it on Wi-Fi. I got a couple of Moto G’s & Moto E’s for $10 at various times which are relatively rock solid phones with solid specs for these kind of purposes. I wouldn’t get a junk Android phone though which might lock up at times and thus wouldn’t be 100% reliable for home automation purposes.

Thanks

Where did you get yours?

If you are trying to send REST commands to the ISY you need to use HTTP Get, not Post.

Michel, Please clarify, to which part of the question did you answer "unfortunately not"? Was it to the "anything new" or to the "are we going to get a UDI PLM" question?

You can control programs as well directly by REST.

Not stupid at all. That's the way to do it.

I think what the OP is talking about is a failure with the A/C system not with the thermostat. For example I had last year a Freon gas leak, which caused the A/C system not to cool adequately and I had to do a re-fill of freon. For such a case a program like that, if we can figure one out, would be helpful.

I was thinking about adding a wait statement. The problem I saw with that approach was that it depends on to many variables making it impossible to come up with an always acceptable wait time. What was the setpoint before that & for how long? How hot is it outside? If the A/C was off long enough on a 95 degree day it might take hours to cool the house down. Let’s take an extreme example: You are away for a week on vacation with the A/C turned off. On the day you fly back its 100 degrees outside at home. Before you get on the plane for the 10 hour trip you turn on the A/C remotely & set the setpoint to 74 expecting your house to be nice & cool when you arrive. However this program will kick in after a wait of an hour or whatever you put in there, and will totally shut off the A/C.

As I am thinking now about this again, I see that this is not going to work without additional modifications. Imagine the following scenario: You are just walking in to the house now after being away for a few hours. Let’s assume that when you were out the setpoint was set to 80 degrees, or it was off all together, so now the temperature is 80 degrees. You go ahead & set the thermostat to 74. This program is immediately going to run & turn off the A/C. If I will come up with another idea I will post it here.

I would add the following in the if section: And Status 'First Floor Thermostat' < 77° (Cool Setpoint) This will ensure that the A/C will not be turned off in a case where the reason the temperature is 77 degrees is just because the setpoint was intentionally set to be higher than 77 because you are leaving the house etc.

Personally, with a maglock I would go with failsafe and a UPS. I shudder to think of a scenario where the house is on fire, there is no power, the UPS battery is already depleted, and you are standing at the door trying with all your might to force it open to get out and you can't.

I always use a KPL button to control it for this reason.

The 2473 OutletLinc is a responder only device. It does not update its status when controlled locally.

Thanks. I will have to make some extra time one of these days to pull out the switches & document all the wires there. I will then come back and post what I find.

Sorry about the wrong terminology. Yes it was a 3-way switch. Thanks.

That's what I would love to know...

I had a standard 2 way switch with one line wire only going to the fixture's electrical box. The fan has two pull chains for the fan & the light. The light was always on at the pull chain & I used the wall switch to control it. I rarely used the fan at the time. If I did want to turn on the fan I used the pull chain to do it. When I installed the Fanlinc I followed Smarthome's instructions on how to repurpose the traveler wires etc. when changing from a standard 2 way switch setup to two Insteon switches. With one difference that none of the switches are directly controlling the load. Rather the load wire always has power, and it's just the switches controlling the fanlinc via ISY scene linking.

Yes sure there is a line conducter connected to the proper wire on the fanlinc. I was just listing the wires from the fan. Could it have something to do with the ground wire? I just looked now at a picture I took of the wiring before I disconnected the first Fanlinc, and I see two green wires and a bare metal wire connected together. I don't remember why there are 3 ground wires there.

The fan has a neutral wire, one wire for the fan motor, one wire for the light, and a ground wire. I connected them to the approriate wires on the Fanlinc. What could I have wired wrong?

The fan on its own does not have a dimming capability. Also this did not happen before I installed the Fanlinc. Thanks.