ISYhbsh01

Where did you get yours?

If you are trying to send REST commands to the ISY you need to use HTTP Get, not Post.

Michel, Please clarify, to which part of the question did you answer "unfortunately not"? Was it to the "anything new" or to the "are we going to get a UDI PLM" question?

You can control programs as well directly by REST.

Not stupid at all. That's the way to do it.

I think what the OP is talking about is a failure with the A/C system not with the thermostat. For example I had last year a Freon gas leak, which caused the A/C system not to cool adequately and I had to do a re-fill of freon. For such a case a program like that, if we can figure one out, would be helpful.

I was thinking about adding a wait statement. The problem I saw with that approach was that it depends on to many variables making it impossible to come up with an always acceptable wait time. What was the setpoint before that & for how long? How hot is it outside? If the A/C was off long enough on a 95 degree day it might take hours to cool the house down. Let’s take an extreme example: You are away for a week on vacation with the A/C turned off. On the day you fly back its 100 degrees outside at home. Before you get on the plane for the 10 hour trip you turn on the A/C remotely & set the setpoint to 74 expecting your house to be nice & cool when you arrive. However this program will kick in after a wait of an hour or whatever you put in there, and will totally shut off the A/C.

As I am thinking now about this again, I see that this is not going to work without additional modifications. Imagine the following scenario: You are just walking in to the house now after being away for a few hours. Let’s assume that when you were out the setpoint was set to 80 degrees, or it was off all together, so now the temperature is 80 degrees. You go ahead & set the thermostat to 74. This program is immediately going to run & turn off the A/C. If I will come up with another idea I will post it here.

I would add the following in the if section: And Status 'First Floor Thermostat' < 77° (Cool Setpoint) This will ensure that the A/C will not be turned off in a case where the reason the temperature is 77 degrees is just because the setpoint was intentionally set to be higher than 77 because you are leaving the house etc.

Personally, with a maglock I would go with failsafe and a UPS. I shudder to think of a scenario where the house is on fire, there is no power, the UPS battery is already depleted, and you are standing at the door trying with all your might to force it open to get out and you can't.

I always use a KPL button to control it for this reason.

The 2473 OutletLinc is a responder only device. It does not update its status when controlled locally.

Thanks. I will have to make some extra time one of these days to pull out the switches & document all the wires there. I will then come back and post what I find.

Sorry about the wrong terminology. Yes it was a 3-way switch. Thanks.

That's what I would love to know...

I had a standard 2 way switch with one line wire only going to the fixture's electrical box. The fan has two pull chains for the fan & the light. The light was always on at the pull chain & I used the wall switch to control it. I rarely used the fan at the time. If I did want to turn on the fan I used the pull chain to do it. When I installed the Fanlinc I followed Smarthome's instructions on how to repurpose the traveler wires etc. when changing from a standard 2 way switch setup to two Insteon switches. With one difference that none of the switches are directly controlling the load. Rather the load wire always has power, and it's just the switches controlling the fanlinc via ISY scene linking.

Yes sure there is a line conducter connected to the proper wire on the fanlinc. I was just listing the wires from the fan. Could it have something to do with the ground wire? I just looked now at a picture I took of the wiring before I disconnected the first Fanlinc, and I see two green wires and a bare metal wire connected together. I don't remember why there are 3 ground wires there.

The fan has a neutral wire, one wire for the fan motor, one wire for the light, and a ground wire. I connected them to the approriate wires on the Fanlinc. What could I have wired wrong?

The fan on its own does not have a dimming capability. Also this did not happen before I installed the Fanlinc. Thanks.

I am using three 60 watt candelabra base incandescent bulbs that came with the fan.

Hi all, I have had a fanlinc for almost two years. Ever since I installed it, every once in a while when the light was on to full brightness, it would all of a sudden dim considerably. The ISY, as well as the keypads linked as controllers to the fanlinc, were not aware of this change. The ISY would sill show the status as fully on, and if I would do a fast on either via the ISY or via the keypad nothing would happen. The only way to get it back to full brightness was by turning the light off & then turning it back on. Sometimes after doing this it would stay on at full brightness for a while & then it would dim again. Plenty of times though, when the Fanlinc would be in a bad mood it seems, it would dim again like 30 seconds after getting it back to full brightness, and it would continue doing it over & over again. I finally got around to call Smarthome & got a replacement under warranty. I installed it this week & the same thing is happening with the new one. Has anyone had something like this? Any ideas? TIA.

The following is from the Wiki but I have not tested it myself: "Next, ISY queries all devices and determines their status. During this process, the True/False state is determined for programs and folders which have conditions, and any programs which require running are set to run following initialization. Folders with no conditions are set to True so as not to prevent programs within them from running, since without conditions a folder's state will never be changed. Programs which have no conditions are initialized to False, just as a variable would be, since programs, which are often used as flags, may have their state changed by other programs or directly from the Program Summary tab, even though they have no conditions."

Have you found that the AP is better just because it's specifically designed for this single purpose, or is it just a matter of an exposed plug-in vs. a fully enclosed hardwired dual band device? The reason I would really like to know the ansewr to this is, because Smarthome now has this sale on a 4 pack plugin dual band dimmer. While I don't need the dimmer function at all, if it repeats the RF signal as good or almost as good as an AP I would get it just for that. At $24 per piece it's cheaper than the $40 range extender.

I don't remember, it was like 2 years ago I think. Also I am talking about the first generation tags. They are claiming that the 2nd generation is more accurate, which I would also love to know if it's true.

I did calibrate it. It was still off, and not even by a consistent number.