ISYhbsh01

I am using three 60 watt candelabra base incandescent bulbs that came with the fan.

Hi all, I have had a fanlinc for almost two years. Ever since I installed it, every once in a while when the light was on to full brightness, it would all of a sudden dim considerably. The ISY, as well as the keypads linked as controllers to the fanlinc, were not aware of this change. The ISY would sill show the status as fully on, and if I would do a fast on either via the ISY or via the keypad nothing would happen. The only way to get it back to full brightness was by turning the light off & then turning it back on. Sometimes after doing this it would stay on at full brightness for a while & then it would dim again. Plenty of times though, when the Fanlinc would be in a bad mood it seems, it would dim again like 30 seconds after getting it back to full brightness, and it would continue doing it over & over again. I finally got around to call Smarthome & got a replacement under warranty. I installed it this week & the same thing is happening with the new one. Has anyone had something like this? Any ideas? TIA.

The following is from the Wiki but I have not tested it myself: "Next, ISY queries all devices and determines their status. During this process, the True/False state is determined for programs and folders which have conditions, and any programs which require running are set to run following initialization. Folders with no conditions are set to True so as not to prevent programs within them from running, since without conditions a folder's state will never be changed. Programs which have no conditions are initialized to False, just as a variable would be, since programs, which are often used as flags, may have their state changed by other programs or directly from the Program Summary tab, even though they have no conditions."

Have you found that the AP is better just because it's specifically designed for this single purpose, or is it just a matter of an exposed plug-in vs. a fully enclosed hardwired dual band device? The reason I would really like to know the ansewr to this is, because Smarthome now has this sale on a 4 pack plugin dual band dimmer. While I don't need the dimmer function at all, if it repeats the RF signal as good or almost as good as an AP I would get it just for that. At $24 per piece it's cheaper than the $40 range extender.

I don't remember, it was like 2 years ago I think. Also I am talking about the first generation tags. They are claiming that the 2nd generation is more accurate, which I would also love to know if it's true.

I did calibrate it. It was still off, and not even by a consistent number.

I put my first generation tags on top of a HVAC thermostat & it was quite off.

Hi MWareman, Are you using the first or 2nd generation tags & tag manager? I bought their first generation product & it was a total disaster. The tag manager constantly dropped off the network, the temperature was highly inaccurate & inconsistent, I was constantly getting messages that the tag is out of range when it wasn't even moved, the android app was very slow & clunky, and finally after a few months of having one tag in my fridge or freezer, I don't remember which, the tag stopped working. One thing that did work accurately & instantly was the motion detection. Back in April I received an email from them apologizing for all the first generation trouble & offering me their 2nd generation "much more reliable system" at about 50% off. I was so fed up that I didn't take the offer. I am wondering if the 2nd generation is indeed working 100% reliably. What's your experience? BTW the first generation tag was $16 if I remember correctly while the current one is $25/$30.

BTW anyone looked into Amazon Echo? Looks to have similar functionality to the UBI.

Or use a Windows 8 tablet.

It has been said that it's on the roadmap for version 5 firmware. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

You are correct on all counts. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

That's true.An outletlinc is a responder only. If you turn it on or off manually at the outletlinc, the ISY would not know about it.Unless you set up a program to periodically query it. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

If UDI would have manufactured all of the automation devices and not just the controller, that would have been a perfect world... Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Yes that's correct, it is RF only. I personally have 2 Venstars and an access point within 15 feet of each & never had any issues.

See this link at Smarthome's website for a list of Venstars: http://www.smarthome.com/_/INSTEON/Thermostats_HVAC_Controls/_/23b/J/nav.aspx Edit: I just noticed that the Venstar T1700, T1800, and T1900 don't come up on that list. So just do a search on their website for Venstar & you would find those. The T1xx is the residential line while the T2xx series is supposed to be the commercial line. I am not sure though what the difference is. They connect to the ISY as native Insteon devices. Some of them have the Insteon module integrated into the thermostat, while with some you will need to buy this Insteon Adapter: http://www.smarthome.com/2441V/Thermostat-Adapter-INSTEON-and-Totaline-Venstar-Compatible/p.aspx Everything you can do on the thermostat in terms of setting the setpoints, cooling/heating modes of operation, and timers, can be done from the ISY and much more. As a matter of fact, most if not all people don't even bother setting anything up within the thermostat itself & do all the programming within the ISY. I personally never even setup the date & time on the thermostat. I should mention though that there are more advanced settings on the thermostat like setting the deadband and the like, which are not supposed to be changed on a regular basis if at all, those cannot be done from the ISY. It does not have anything to do with ELK. Edit: It's possible that you can control the Venstar somehow from the ELK using the ISY Elk module if that's what you want. I don't have an ELK so I don't know. But you definitely don't NEED the ELK to control the thermostat.

How about getting the Venstar thermostats which are fully supported by ISY? Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

No. The synchronize clock only works with Smarthome's own thermostat, not with the Venstars. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Thanks anyway. The PBX in a Flash is a graphical UI for Asterisk. But It is still possible to manually edit the 'extensions.conf' file. If my understanding is correct, that's where the above cURL command needs to be written. I will try to see if I can figure something out. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Hi, I started playing around recently a bit with the PBX in a Flash version of Asterisk. The non-GUI version of Asterisk is above my pay-grade. Is there any way to implement the above mentioned way of sending REST commands in the PBX in a Flash system? Thanks in advance.

Is this switch directly controlling the load? If so then it's not possible. Having a program shut it off immediately after turning on would be the only way. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

The last time I changed those settings, the Save button was grayed out and could not be clicked on until I moved the cursor to the next field. That's how I became aware of that. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

WES, Good to hear from you. Thanks for the clarifications.

Wow that's bad news. Where did you see this info? Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

Wow this is something new and I didn't know about it. I just updated Tasker on my phone & this option is now available there. So I take back what I said before. You do NOT need a certificate from a certificate authority. You can use a self signed certificate. Just check off the "Trust any Certificate" box in Tasker.