Teken

It should be noted that this coupler is passive in nature. Unlike the Range Extender (Access Point) this device is active and regenerates and repeats the Insteon signal. I would humbly suggest the use of a AP before taking up two breaker slots. Also the phase coupler does not provide any RF / power line reception - conversion. Lastly, you can always move a AP you can't move a breaker. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Mini Remote (remote linc 2) via USB cable. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Glad it all worked out, and apologies for the many days of endless searching. [emoji18] Many of us can relate and have been there too! [emoji5]️[emoji4] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I would first suggest you upgrade the firmware to the latest 4.3.8 RC4 so everyone is using the same reference point. In the link I provided above in steps 2m1 there are two links. You will simply install the second link which indicates no PLM.

Just wanted to provide you some reference material located here: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14895-insteon-leak-sensor-2852-222-review/ It should be noted that many people have seen over lapping behavior even with the (supposedly) same hardware / ISY firmware release. If you're seeing a quick flicker of the leak sensor LED, and also seeing the wet node toggle back from on to off. Its imperative that you use the Leak Sensor program created by Belias which is referenced in the above link. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14828-leak-sensor-stays-wet/

This is for the latest Beta 4.3.8 RC under steps 2m1 which you will select the second link for those not having a PLM. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16285-release-438-rc4-is-now-available/ This is another reference thread which indicates should the PLM fail. The Z-Wave portion will continue to operate in a hybrid Insteon / Z-Wave environment: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14667-udi-plm/

Its strange this single unit requires super fast tapping like - - - -. Whereas the other three simply need - - - - ? Can anyone decipher the flow chart provided above to complete the same task???

Smartlabs designed the Insteon protocol to have a maximum of 3 hops to reach the intended target device. If you see that your Insteon network consistently requires 3 hops. Then, you have a communication problem . . . That can be from a lack of bridging / coupling of the two sides of the electrical feed. Or it can be from noise makers / signal suckers within the home that is impacting the Insteon signal. Lastly, it could simply be a structural issue where appliances, walls, floors, furniture are affecting the RF portion of the signal. The only thing that will help your Insteon network assuming its not noise related is to have more devices in the home. This allows the Insteon *mesh* network to propagate and help repeat the signal to the end device.

Never mind, this one unit on hand requires Speedy Gonzalez to tap the set button 4 times super fast. Doing the same thing on three other units does not require lightning fast reflex's!

Has anyone successfully been able to complete the 4 tap beacon test with this 2635-222 On/Off Module? Performing the 4 tap beacon tests results in nothing happening? The flow chart that is indicated in the full users manual makes no sense to me. Anyone who has one can you describe in detail how this is completed.

Glad everything worked out as you hoped. Now, its time to move forward on other Home Automation aspects and spend more money! Ha . . .

I don't own a *Outdoor Module* so those who do should chime in. You will need to confirm how this device behaves upon power loss. Some of the firmware has changed over the years where the device initially at launch remained off when power was restored. Where as later versions of this device it returns to its last known state of either On / Off. You will really need to build in a few programs to act as a watch dog timer if this is mission critical. I've being doing this for a few circuits in my home and every time you think you've thought about all the possibilities or scenarios there is always something else that happens. Please test, validate, and confirm your set up and it goes with out saying having a robust Insteon network is paramount. Perform the 4 tap (beacon) test at the location and insure it passes. I am sure you don't want to be driving 325 miles just to find out you had poor coupling / bridging.

Yes, you will want to use a computer outside of your LAN. It should be noted many businesses and services will not allow a non 443 port to be used. This is also seen in IE web browsers for some government websites. Since this is for your own use and also via mobilinc this isn't a issue. I just wanted to call this out in case you decided to deploy more devices with secure connection. Have a great weekend! [emoji5]️[emoji4][emoji6] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Please ensure you double check using a normal PC web browser on port 543 that you see the padlock indicating the session is secure.

You will follow the same process for the HTTPS port in your router and for the ISY. For now just use port 443 just to see if it works if it does you can change it to like 543 and confirm you have portal access via secure connection. In the list of ports which Stu provided you will notice there are many . . . You can simply pick one that is not on the list say you see a (making this up) list for ports 9000 in use but there are no 9292 listed. You can pick that range for your HTTP access etc. Again, never apologize because this is part of learning and I am sure you will help out someone else down the line.

Please login to the Admin Console: Configuration -> System -> HTTP Port: 82

I am assuming you entered 174.xxx.xxx.xxx:82 correct? Keep in mind you must also enter port 82 into the HTTP section in the ISY.

You may select any port you wish so long as its not in use or going to conflict with a service using said port. The list Stu provided is a good start as to which port(s) to avoid etc. You can select port 82 for now for HTTP: and report back success / failure. Hang in there you're almost done.

The physical device has two control buttons to turn each outlet on/off. The ISY shows it as having two nodes one being top the other bottom.

Below are the technical specs of the dual band On/Off module. If your appliances fall with in those ratings should be fine. I've also included the specs for the outdoor module along with the dual outlet. I like the dual outlet because it provides an extra outlet for control. The only thing to note is that only the outdoor unit is outdoor rated. Where as the other two are not and not intended for extreme temperatures etc. Lastly, previous versions of the outlet relay had issues with large inductive loads causing the unit to either lock up or simply die. I haven't personally tried my compressor on the new dual outlet but might give it a try in the future because I really do like having control of two independent outlets.

This doesn't answer all of your questions but is required reading if you wish to learn the intimate details of such: http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/insteondetails.pdf

If ISP modem / router has been bridged this prevents a double NAT situation. Bridging a modem / router also allows you to install a more powerful router with more features. People also do this to extend their WiFi network to provide more coverage. The DNS based on your reply, is being handled by the ISP Modem / router.

Hello Brian, I would humbly suggest you purchase a few Insteon FilterLincs from Smarthome. This will help filter out the bulk of the media noise makers / signal suckers from your circuit. Keep in mind you may need a few because the largest unit only supports 10 amps. Building out your Insteon network will in the long run definitely improve the mesh network in the home. Enjoy . . .

Yes, it would have allowed you to ping the ISY / Modem. You then could have done one of several actions based on your circumstances. For the benefit of others I will describe a few scenarios which you should keep in mind. First, with this device you have the power to perform several actions and that is turn On, Off, Cycle power. This device also has a *dead mans switch* which allows you to program the unit to do the following which really helps those who have specific needs or environments. If power is lost to this web enabled switch it can be programmed to leave all outlets off upon power restore, turn all outlets on in a delayed sequence this is great for devices that take longer to come back on or draw a large current load. This insures you don't trip a breaker, or have something come back up out of sequence. The last option is the unit will bring up what ever outlet in its last known On/Off state. Now, one thing I have to mention is many devices for instances will reply back to a ping command. But, you soon realize in fact the system is still frozen or locked up. So even with a *Ping Alive* this is not a silver bullet in all cases, so keep this in mind. As many devices on the market either have the hardware / software stack tied, separated, or tied to one another with respect to replying back to a ping. It should also be noted many routers / modems also have features where if *Enabled* will not reply back to a ping. You need to be doubly sure this feature *black hole detect* is disabled or modified to allow these sort of ping alive attributes to operate as expected. My intent is to give you the best information and guidance so you know what can, can't, won't happen. Having said all the above, I would ask you to think about it for awhile and if you still believe these devices have value consider buying one. I can tell you from more than 25 years in the industry it has saved me hundreds of air plane / road trips just to cycle power from a locked device. At home it has saved me many times and for me was definitely worth the expense.

Absolutely, and also note the PLM should not be installed on the same circuit as other devices like computers, printers, UPS, etc.