Teken

The problem you're going to run into with some of these products is the lack of real world distance. So this needs to be kept in mind and some of the products also don't support humidity sensors very well as Larry indicated for the Web Control Board. For reference sake here is what incredible data you can obtain and have all charted, graphed, and displayed live.

Hard reset the switch then do a device restore and let us know the results. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Indicated above . . .

Since you indicated going the route of Z-Wave might be an option you could consider this device: http://aeotec.com/z-wave-sensor As you also indicated so long as the reading is (repeatable) never mind accurate this would fit into your environment quite nicely. If you're looking for something that is wired and offers true accuracy and over the long run will not cost you more money in terms of batteries etc. You can go the route of a 1 Wire system which can be supported by a Autelis Bridge, Raspberry Pi (RPi-2), or Web Control board. All of these are hard wired solutions and offer reliable, consistent, and long term use. Keep in mind if fishing wire is not in the agenda then a wireless solution is the best choice. But the out of pocket expense will be more initially, and long term. If you need more insight about the Autelis Bridge you can find it here: http://www.autelis.com This is a guide I created to help those track their efforts with a free hosted site (SEG) so you could see the historic data and act upon it: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16095-autelis-bridge-pushing-data-to-smart-energy-groups-seg-guide/ The following link goes to a massively long *Install Thread* which I use to track my efforts in all things related to the home automation, security, and energy solutions with in my home: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=929&start=80

First I would direct you to this related thread I wrote about as it may give you some insight. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16485-kpl-4-tap-bridging-coupling-beacon-test/ From what I gather (assuming) you don't have the latest units with dual LED's which offer no ambiguity as to the same phase / opposite phase. Switch Lincs / Switch Linc Dimmers in my experience that flash the bottom LED when another device has initiated a 4 tap beacon tests indicates same electrical leg / phase. If the device does not blink at all its (assumed) to be on the opposite leg / phase. Keep in mind this lack of flashing could also mean its not with in the RF range of the transmitter of the sender also. 1. Your first step is to move that Lamp Linc back and confirm bridging / coupling. 2. Any dual band device that has a green / red LED's that do not blink indicates its not in receiving range of the RF signal.

I wish . . .

Hey Drew, Its been a little while so can you confirm the KPL is doing what? 1. Does the KPL turn the load on and off locally with out issue? 2. Can you command the KPL to turn the load on and off via the Admin Console? 3. Is this simply a scene / program issue?

You won't need a parachute but might need a canoe and portage about 39 minutes. Ha . . .

LOL, well played . . . You're correct the term cold solder joint should not have been used because in this case it was not the issue. The (my take) is that the connection was compromised when the follow up of the clipping of the wire was done too close to the board. This left very little solder to hold the heavy inductor coil to the PCB board.

I wouldn't say it was a cold solder joint and agree all seemed well done. The problem was the follow up of clipping the end of the wires and it was done too close to the board. What ever wire was being held by the solder was literally at the end of the wire and not at the length of wire.

Brian H, You're a Prince! This is really going to save me some eye strain because the ink markings are quite faded on all of them. Hoping to find these on the cheap on EBAY. I don't think I am going to fool around with the forth unit and will simply replace all of the caps instead. Normally when a wire is passed through for soldering a 1/8" or smaller section of wire / solder is left behind to ensure wires don't pull out. In the ones I have the inductor wires were cut extremely close to the PCB board. Not surprised it slipped out over time due to heat, stress, and possible vibration from the unit being inserted over time into outlets.

Lots of cheap sensors but none of them will offer very low / high accurate temperature or humidity. If you're so inclined I can offer you a few resources that will be worth the long term investment.

Yes, a few of them give off quite a spark when you first plug it into the outlet when I have my netbook connected to the filter side. It doesn't always happen but its something that scares me because can you imagine you were in a room where there were explosive fumes? I literally purchased six 25 liter military style gas cans to help offset the high cost of fuel. I've been filling them up when the cost of fuel has been low due to low oil prices and it really saved me tons of cash. Not surprisingly the thieves who run the industry only let it stay low for so long! I had six of these containers full of gas in my garage for a short while before I moved them outside to a more secure and distant location because I don't like things like that in my home. Imagine if one of them leaked or the cap wasn't tight and that spark let loose when I plugged in that Filter Linc? Boooooooooooom . . . I'm going to try to take a few more pictures of the unit that is dead. Trying to figure out the value for all of the caps in these units. Afterwards source a place for them on the cheap.

A couple things to start you should be using the latest Beta 4.3.10 RC10 so everyone is on the same page. Next, the units should not show a V.00 so you need to delete them and add them back one at a time using the auto discover mode.

This past week end I past by a few garage sales and came upon a gentleman who had some very old Insteon Filter Lincs in a *Sold as is* pile. He indicated none of the devices worked or operated as expected. I inquired to him how much these broken device were being sold as and he indicated they we free so long as I promised not to throw them in a land fill but place them in a recycling bin should they not meet my needs. [emoji4][emoji3] Well I have to tell you I am always up for a challenge and anything gotten for free is worth my time to figure out whats going on! [emoji41] Upon taking the device apart from past memory there isn't a whole lot involved with these things. All there is are three capacitors, two inductors, and a fuse. Measuring the fuse indicated it was still good and not blown open. Looking, smelling, and touching the board nothing was burnt or bursted caps? The top traces all appeared to be just fine and the connections were tight and all of the wires were showing proper continuity etc. After removing the super small Phillip's head screws from the board I was in shock to find the culprit! As can be seen there was a cold solder joint not holding down one of the inductor coils! [emoji6] It took me longer to heat up my soldering iron then to actually repair this one Filter Linc. As can be seen after about 2-3 minutes of waiting the job was done! Testing the unit by plugging in a portable fan showed all was well and operating perfectly. Upon taking apart the other two units they too had the same cold solder joints but on different legs of the coil. The forth one it appears at first blush one or more of the capacitors are either out of spec, dried up, or simply shorted out. I will need to get my other meter to confirm the values and go from there. Selling price of the Filter Linc is $29.99 USD which translates to $119.96 for the four units. For about 20 minutes of work and a little patience $119.96 worth of free product!

Have you tried to hard reset the KPL and load the HL2 software on a computer and try to see if you can reset the LED's?

When the filterlinc arrives you can try it on the transformer and see if it resolves the issue. With respect to verifying coupling / bridging via the 4 tap (beacon) test. Its important to note if you perform the same test from the PLM to the out door unit what are the results? Doing the same test but in the reverse what are the results? You may be very surprised at what you see regardless of the noise related issue from the transformer. Ideally, the dual band outlet should couple with another dual band device. But this assumes line of sight RF connection for the longest range and if walls and other objects are in the way what ever distance Insteon states can drop off from 1 foot to the expected 150 feet. Don't fall prey in the hype this whole dual band, mesh, multi hop actually works and solves all. As you can see if it did you wouldn't need a filter or any coupling, right?

You will need to complete and confirm the proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap (beacon) test which is outlined in the full users manual for the products in question. Also, you should unplug the landscape lighting and see if you can control the On-Off modes of the unit. If you can at this point with out the landscape lighting more than likely the units transformer is sucking the signal. When you can turn something on but not off this points to the load being the culprit.

LOL, hold your tongue! [emoji4][emoji4][emoji5]️ Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Yes the 10 amp model is the only filterlinc Smartlabs sells and works in 90% of the electrical loads present. For those loads that exceed the 10 amp limit you can also purchase 3rd party filters that are hardwired in place. The XPF 20 amp filter is used often but requires a vary large junction box. There are also smaller wired 5 amp filters on the market for areas like ceiling fans etc. Lastly, sometimes devices called a snubber are placed in line to help filter the noise. As you can see there are many solutions for various problems in your case the plugin filterlinc is a great start. http://www.x10.com/xpnr-noise-reducer.html?___SID=U

I would suggest you purchase a few filterlincs so they are on hand. Because as you noted it may be a challenge to find a outlet that is not on the same circuit as the offending noise makers / signal suckers. Very few people have dedicated outlets unless they had the for thought like I did during the construction phase to include them. I designed and built my home with the intent and knowledge that power line communications would be in use such as Insteon. Even with that sort of extreme set up the use of filters are required in some areas because there simply are too many devices, appliances, and related hardware that make noise.

I would humbly suggest if you have the tools and some time to review the PLM repair guide and try your hand at the repair. This will at least provide you a secondary back up unit should it ever be required. For the amount of time and money to bring back a unit its not a lot to invest plus you get a chance to fix something that you have satisfaction in knowing you got more life out of a product.

In the big picture you should purchase a new PLM. While you're waiting please do a search in the forums on the capacitor fix which has helped many here extend the service life of their PLM. All in it comes out to be a under $15.00 fix depending on shipping costs etc. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I believe the method LeeG indicated would mimic the same thing. I am however hesitant in believing this method would provide a true default state. Because if you select restore device it's going to take what ever settings are in the system. One would assume the changed dim levels would come back exactly as you have now. Give it a try and report back at least you can say if it worked and this will save you time reprogramming from scratch. If it doesn't work and you feel you can't live with the current dim levels hard reset the KPL and see if it's the same as before but use HL2 and see if it works. This assumes your KPL is listed in the very old data base. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

I've never used HL2 software with a 2413S PLM linked to an existing ISY controller so can't comment on that part I use the HL2 supplied USB PLM and hard reset the device than simply added it to HL2. Than set the LED level to what ever appeared to be correct when compared to a unit not messed up. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent